Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Nati Beast | 8m | ||||
Working on top-rope. On maybe third attempt managed to get up through the roof using handjam in the crack instead of grabbing hold on arete which works better for my wrist. Just need to work out how to get feet onto the lip and rest seemed relatively easy.
|
||||||
Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | ||||||
21 | Bomber Choss - with Pete | 8m | Average | |||
Don't think this climbs too nicely compared to Desperate Living - the first section is easy if you climb it poorly and just yard up the slopers, the cruxy part through the underclings is nicer. Didn't link this today as it was impossible to see the footers in dark even with head-torch, but felt marginally easier then DL
|
||||||
22 | ★ Desperate Living - with Pete | 9m | ★ Good | |||
This climbs really excellently, just shame the gear isn't better. Soft for the grade.. soft as in sand.. in a bag. Feels probably closer to 22 (edit: assuming ELV is probably 21) - harder on toprope than ELV was to lead. Quite comparable climbs: about same height, both quite bouldery, but ELV is less sustained.. and has bolts.. and rock that probably wont kill you
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Mar 2020 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
23 | FA ★ Kev Direct | 8m | ||||
After I think maybe 5 sessions of working on this, finally and slightly unexpectably managed this. Lots of tricky blind footwork after the crux moves. Quite a bit harder than Kev - hard V4 or maybe v5 boulder-wise, not sure what that would translate to in Ewbanks grade as I haven't done any routes in this grade range for comparison.
|
||||||
Wed 29th Jan 2020 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Birdy | 7m | ||||
Lower part was easy once I started using the right face for footers. Got up to the jug below the easy climbing but couldn't be bothered with the top-out as it was getting hot. Shall probably finish this next time I'm there
|
||||||
23 | Kev | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed with the left-hand-to-sloper beta pretty much first attempt. Was drastically easier than other way I was trying (maybe easy V2), but less fun movement than RH-to-sloper and veering left (which feels hard V4). The veering-left way may be separate route maybe - feels distinc and significantly harder, as it doesn't go to the good undercling adding several dynamic moves. Top out is straight forward, more secure than Trev or Nev (would be pleasant but for the slightly thorny bush at 3/4 height)
|
||||||
Tue 21st Jan 2020 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
18 | Nev | 8m | ||||
Lower part felt quite easy, only vaguely stressful part was the top out which required standing on a big still-damp block of mud/moss, but not too bad with a fairly decent hand hold
|
||||||
23 | Kev | 8m | ||||
Not good conditions for slopers, but slightly better than when I tried it last week in the 30+ temperatures last week. Doing right-hand-to-sloper variant - just need to work out one more move and should be done. I also trimmed back a bunch of the blackberry bushes earlier in week - were getting very out of control and starting to block the path, never mind making the falls sketchy. Everything from about Nev through to Nati Beast should be comfortably climbable for now
|
||||||
12 | ★ Trev | 8m | ||||
Warmup. Climbed in approach shoes and without chalk, realised the top needed one small footer so reversed down, and acquired both of those and back up
|
||||||
Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Mt Canobolas | ||||||
Pinnacle | ||||||
6 | Keyhole | 7m | ||||
Nice short walk to the summit lookout but nothing worthwhile to climb - no clear lines, just lots of scattered scrambly rocks. There was something resembling a line on the right side (looking out from the lookout), but still very short and heavily covered in moss and as to not be worth the effort. Tidied up some junk that had been dropped from the lookout, so not all for nothing at least
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac - with Amy | 25m | ||||
Evening climb just before sunset. Struggled to get solid jams through cruxy section (probably some combination of lacking technique and skinny hands), thus rest and ended up using small crimp to get through it. Fun climb, quite tricky.
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
11 |
★★ The Bishop
- with
Amy
1
11
50m
lead by
Amy
2
lead by
Ben Dickson
| 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice climb - had led the first pitch with Jack/Nicola previously, wanted to lead the second, and climb was nicely in shade. Felt much easier leading than sketchy seconding technique we used last time (basically short-roping myself to second)
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Rosy Shy - with Amy | 35m | ||||
Picked without guide book ("that looks nice, lets try that"). Was feeling really crappy this morning; devoid of energy I got up to the crux before bailing, but is a really nice climb, want to try this again next time. Got up to the crux with one rest, including a quite unnerving placement before the crux moves (awkwardly unclipping nut-binner with wrong hand while balancing on somewhat-positive undercling). Section before the main crux can be done easily with a really high step. Lowered and Amy led it with a few rests and a decent fall through the crux (resulting in a very stuck DMM offset nut - couldn't budge it with just nut tool and carabiner, but hopefully someone can persuade it free with a rock or something). Shame the top 1/3rd backs off so drastically, and the section between the ledge and the main cave is largely unprotected - would probably be better climbing this to the first ledge, belaying, then traversing and finishing up Dracula or something.
|
||||||
Thu 21st Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece - with Amy, Mark | 33m | ||||
Good test of new approach shoes. Crux is nice couple of moves, although doesn't seem like it'd be too fun to fall from
|
||||||
Thu 21st Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin - with Amy, Mark | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really excellent climb. Good sustained climbing with decent-enough rests, and easy to place really good gear. I didn't take quite enough quickdraws so ended up protecting the last section with contrived C4 #0.1 cam placement direct-clipped, but other than that, climb all went really smoothly and felt pretty easy. Long arms probably help on the roof traverse (I could reach directly to the good side-pull, whereas Amy had to balance over first). Marking as onsight although I did briefly see someone climbing it sometime last year while we were setting up an abseil.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★ Lawrence - with Amy | 100m | ||||
Good climb. Was very warm day and climb pleasantly in shade whole way. The scrambling on the first pitch seemed perfectly fine, and had decent gear protecting the any of the tricky parts (including opposed nut placement in horizontal before the choss-crux up the big sloping rock about half way up). Amy led the rest well, after a bit of encouragement to lead the last pitch. Aided through the chimney on last pitch to avoid faff with backpack
|
||||||
Tue 19th Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | ||||||
7 | ★ Little Revolver Crack | 20m | ||||
Not 100% sure this is the right climb - but set up top rope for the mob of friend's children (all ~5 of them). Most impressive ascent possibly being 2 year old Clay getting to about half way point, climbed mostly in floods of tears while still continuing to ascend (frustrated at "not being able to get to the top of the mountain")
|
||||||
15 | ★ The Ghost of Melville | 25m | ||||
On mostly pre-placed gear (added one cam through the cruxy section). Felt quite hard, crux on this felt stronger than anything else we climbed this week, although I climbed this non-optimimally (using a ~3 finger crimp to get over onto wall instead of any bridging)
|
||||||
Sat 9th Feb 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Little Thor - with Matt | 12m | ||||
Didn’t have any plans to climb much on this trip, fingers had almost zero skin left and fatigued from climbing lot during week. Led it comfortably to before the crux first time before bailing. Second attempt with previously placed gear, fell on reachy move in crux section. Glad I tried, definitely doable next time if bit better rested
|
||||||
Mon 24th Dec 2018 - Mt Greenly | ||||||
Car parks | ||||||
6 | ★ Oyster Pie | 10m | ||||
Was passing by and wanted to check out the area - this was the only line in shade on a hot sunny day), not certain if this is the right route but felt about right for the grade. Really nice spot, solid rock and interesting looking climbs, would be good to come back with gear and try some of the harder lines
|
||||||
Sat 17th Nov 2018 - Mount Barker Summit | ||||||
Little Arapiles | ||||||
8 | Puff Pastry | 8m | ||||
Up and downclimb.
|
||||||
15 | Dough | 9m | ||||
Felt relatively easy but think I went a bit of route at the top (too far left, only narrowly avoiding finishing as for Puff Pastry)
|
||||||
15 | ★★ Pop Tart | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb. Crux is near the top and is pretty interesting and exposed - was quite glad the top out involves the several of the worlds largest jugs. Would make for a good lead as has plenty of gear (unlike the other two routes)
|
||||||
Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Reedy Creek | ||||||
The Gallery | ||||||
16 | FA ★ Slab and Tickle LHF | 7m | ||||
"Solo" although with boulder pad, doesn't have much gear. Not too sure about the grade of this; I assume the crux is still the start, and the mossy direct line didn't look difficult (I just didn't feel like spending ages scrubbing lichen of every hold I wanted to use) which would imply the grade is similar to the original.. but didn't feel close to an 18 - 16 still feels a little high but maybe about right
|
||||||
18 | ★ Slab and Tickle | 7m | ||||
Start was fine, upper half is entirely thick lichen which completely obscured any semblance of holds, so bailed to crack on left which turned out to be quite nice (and probably a more sensible variant given the lichen)
|
||||||
11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | ||||
Exceptionally high-step required for start but otherwise easy. Some kids maybe about 8 years old scrambled down the start which was amusing.
|
||||||
20 | James E | 7m | ||||
With bouldering pad. Seems very easy for grade (although it's mostly just a weird mantle and I like weird mantles) - and all the climbing is over in the first 2 moves before it links up into Eau D'ear
|
||||||
Sun 28th Oct 2018 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ D-lusion | 8m | ||||
Working from ground as boulder problem. Hard to find holds; bumping right-hand up the Disjointed Illusion crack as side-pull seemed most successful, but couldn't see much for left hand above there
|
||||||
Sun 7th Oct 2018 - The Bluff | ||||||
Tai Chi Lychee Boulder | ||||||
8 | FA The Pleasure Funnel | 8m | ||||
Surely climbed before but seems unrecorded (can't work out if it's possible to record climbs as FRA instead of FA on TheCrag?). Fairly straight forward as you can palm down on the loose chock-stone half-way up, would almost be worth the effort to clear it out (along with the empty beer cans and broken bottles wedged behind)
|
||||||
14 | ★ Bill and Erik's Big Adventure - with Michael, Max Kulbida | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Michael seeing if his arm was indeed strained after trying Shaolin, with some kind but probably-unhelpful-for-a-slab-fall crashpad shuffling below by Max. Also climbed loop up the start of Rule Brittia and back down the start of this which was good
|
||||||
Sun 7th Oct 2018 - The Bluff | ||||||
The Pleasure Dome | ||||||
14 14 R | ★★ Pleasure Dome - with Michael, Max Kulbida | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Since "first ascent using unnecessary bat-hang" isn't an option on TheCrag, nor is "Novelty photo lead attempt".
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Sep 2018 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
19 | ★ Living on Input | 15m | ||||
With Uni Club. Think this is the line on the arete just left of Digital Input, kind of similar to Mt Olive
|
||||||
11 | Olive Oyl | 15m | ||||
With Uni Club day. No hands to about 1/3rd height then resorted to one handed to top (should probably log it as aid-climb ascent type)
|
||||||
16 | ★★★ Muesli | 18m | ||||
Off-line top-rope setup made this feel more awkward than I recall last time.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Brainrack | 19m | ||||
On first attempt. Fun strange climb. Loose feeling hold after mantle and lots of sand on upper part made this feel quite hard
|
||||||
17 | ★ Mt Olive | 17m | ||||
Last climb of day. Felt mostly nice except some probably unnecessary feet-cut of handjam-and-poor-hold 3/4 of way up
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Digital Input | 19m | ||||
Think I did this year or two ago but almost definitely went too far right at the start and skipped crux. Did properly this time, nice climb. Felt leadable although didn't look too closely at gear around the two cruxy parts
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Aug 2018 - Mount Barker Summit | ||||||
Summit Cliff | ||||||
6 | John's Crack | 6m | ||||
Seemed much harder than the other climbs of similar grades nearby (routes in guide book either side are also 5 or 6's so don't think I went overly off route - felt maybe 10ish)
|
||||||
15 | ★★ Three Blind Mice | 9m | ||||
Good. Somewhat climbed the top of this detouring on Walking on Sunshine to avoid a large loose rock so not entire onsight
|
||||||
13 | ★ Walking on Sunshine | 9m | ||||
Nice enough, but long narrow loose block half way up made middle part awkward so climbed out onto Three Blind Mice
|
||||||
13 | Chloe and Brianna | 9m | ||||
Not particularly distinct from Walking on Sunshine
|
||||||
6 | ★ Jacob's Ladder | 9m | ||||
Nice straight forward climb
|
||||||
11 | ★ Arthur | 8m | ||||
Fun climb, solid and implausibly juggy rock. Top looked poorly protected
|
||||||
10 | Camtastic | 13m | ||||
Good. Seems like would make a nice beginner-trad route
|
||||||
6 | Wound up Toy | 10m | ||||
First route to see rock. Seems a bit easy for grade
|
||||||
Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink - with Matt | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally led crux pitch after an eventful bailing of it last time. Bit of faffing having to clean first half of pitch as we didn't bring enough slings, and rested on gear once before final attempt at crux section.. but, still very pleased!
Matt lead last pitch for time and to avoid hanging rope flaking. Was in hanging belay for what seemed like a very long time, not comfortable..
Will probably feel extremely easy next time, had completely forgotten movement from when I seconded this ages ago.. so can hopefully lead this all cleanly next attempt.
|
||||||
Sun 6th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
11 |
★★ The Bishop
- with
Nicola, Jack
1
11
2
| 50m | ||||
To retrieve Jack and Nicola's darkness-bail-gear. Led first pitch and Jack continued from where he left off. Really nice climb
|
||||||
Sat 5th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
4 |
★★ Guiding Light
- with
Michael
1
4
2
3
lead by
Michael
| 60m | ||||
Micahel's first trad lead. Started climbing while he was setting up anchor to avoid impending darkness. Glad we belayed the step over as it didn't feel like the most secure move. Body-belayed the last stretch mostly as excuse to pull up the rope. Fun varied ascent
|
||||||
Fri 4th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
9 | ★ Keyboard - with Michael | 25m | ||||
An okay climb. Was going to climb Hornpeice but faffed around too much and several other people queued up to climb it. Saw someone climbing Tannin at top, definitely want to try that soon, looks excellent.
|
||||||
Fri 4th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Little Thor - with Jack Pointon | 12m | ||||
Top-roped in dark with shonky head-torch as I lost mine earlier that day. Really nice climb. Went to try leading it next day until torrent of rain bucketed as we were walking to the cliff. Next time!
|
||||||
Fri 4th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Jack, Nicola | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jack's first multipitch lead \o/
First time trying climbing two seconds with a single rope - Nicola tied into ~middle of rope with alpine-butterfly, then I basically short-roped myself to her with the remaining rope. Used microtraxion to adjust rope length from second pitch onwards (after first pitch became effectively a solo due to amount of slack I impatiently let accrue). Technique worked quite nicely on easier climbs, would be scary on harder climbs (doubly so on anything balancey or with traverses)
|
||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Morialta | ||||||
The Outcrops | ||||||
18 | ★ Noble House | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Testing MicroTraxion with 120cm sling as chest-harness. Worked nicely. Need to work out better backup than stopper knots as they are a pain to tie one-handed
|
||||||
Fri 29th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
6 | ★★ Exodus - with Jack, Margaux | 36m | ||||
Jack wanted to lead something that wasn't a grade 3. He got a decent way up (maybe 8m?) with much less panic than I was expecting.. but bailed due to approaching wall of rain after maybe 8m? Climb was nice enough - and got to top, setup anchor and found boulder to huddle under before rain reached. Grirgi with MicroTraxion as spare brake-hand made for nice leisurely belaying
|
||||||
Fri 29th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Margaux, Jack | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Margaux's first multipitch, Jack's too (or maybe just first Araps climb). Bit of rain while leading last few meters of final pitch
|
||||||
Sun 24th Dec 2017 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 2 - Central | ||||||
7 | ★ Building Confidence - with Jack | 10m, 2 | ||||
Hadn't done this since it was my first lead climb. Not hard but quite nice climb. Doesn't seem like it needs any gear with the bolts on Fish Dream - although there's a more challenging right variant heading directly up the crack which would force it back into being a mixed route (although higher grade, maybe a 12?)
The binner on the top bolt is gone - left a small 6mm mallion on it to lower off (although would be good to replace it with something more convenient/visible) |
||||||
Sun 17th Dec 2017 - The Bluff | ||||||
The Pleasure Dome | ||||||
14 14 R | ★★ Pleasure Dome - with Carl Schneider, thestig | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Closer to photo-opportunity than climb, but still really fun
|
||||||
Sun 17th Dec 2017 - The Bluff | ||||||
Tai Chi Lychee Boulder | ||||||
14 | ★ Bill and Erik's Big Adventure - with Carl Schneider, thestig | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb. Did as eliminate not using upper lip as hold to make it slightly more challenging
|
||||||
Sun 26th Nov 2017 - Morialta | ||||||
The Outcrops | ||||||
18 | ★ Noble House - with Levi, Margaux, John, Jesse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looking at gear placement. Not much. Uselessly low purple cam, probably some microcam I don't have at half height which might protect crux, so.. maybe not
|
||||||
18 | ★ Voss - with Levi, Margaux, John, Jesse | 13m | ||||
Nice move. Forced way up as slightly ill-advised warmup, worked out much easy sequence on second try later. Indirect start up left onto face is nice, makes route a bit longer. Would make for good lead, assuming there is gear higher up (last ~1.5 metres before top are easy but fairly thin balancewise
|
||||||
Mon 9th Oct 2017 - Cleland | ||||||
Bandicoot Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Lock Up Your Furry Animals - with thestig, Amy | 10m | ||||
Not sure if this route or 'So Where Have All the Bandicoots Gone?', felt fairly easy for a 16-17, but nice climb, would be interesting lead towards top
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze - with Ben Kaldi, Rhea | 20m | ||||
Hard move in traverse for an 11! A cam popped twice on the traverse so I did some gear juggling better protect the traverse for Rhea (who did end up falling, so wasn’t wasted effort!). An okay climb for quick one before driving back home
|
||||||
Sun 1st Oct 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 |
★★★ Bard
- with
Ben Kaldi, Rhea
1
lead by
Me
2
lead by
Me
3
lead by
Me
4
lead by
BenK
5
lead by
BenK
| 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really good, varied climbing. 1st pitch of runout slab, second of awkward traverse, 3rd really nice traverse finishing with a chimney, last two pitches of steep juggy face. Few drops of rain while belaying at third pitch but mostly perfect weather otherwise.
|
||||||
Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
- with
Ben Kaldi, Rhea
1
lead by
Me
2
lead by
Me
3
lead by
BenK
4
lead by
BenK
| 110m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding chimney pitch dragging a backpack is much scarier than onsight-leading it.. By time I realised I should have just worn the backpack instead of hauling it couldn’t get both hands free to put it back on..
BenK did show much easiest way of doing roof - last time I went left (looking at mr chicken), turns out it’s much (maybe like 5 grades..) easier heading right onto the ledge, instead of continuing to bridge and squeeze under the roof.. |
||||||
Mon 18th Sep 2017 - Reedy Creek | ||||||
The Gallery | ||||||
12 | Orgasmatron - with Hannah, thestig, Carl Schneider | 7m | ||||
Really akward top-out onto mostly mud - ended up with all weight on one hand, pulled out a dead plant trying to find holds and used the divit in the mud it left behind to adjust my hand, hand-foot match and didn't fall to last cam about 1.5m below..
|
||||||
4 | All Thunked Out - with thestig, Carl Schneider, Hannah | 9m | ||||
River was high, so had to start at bottom of Whippersnapper and travers up the rising rail, which was an excellent alternative start, more than made up for the unexpectedly easy slab afterwards (wasn't sure what the line was beforehand)
|
||||||
Sun 20th Aug 2017 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Muesli - with thestig, Carl Schneider, Amy | 18m | ||||
A climb I tried and failed on a few moves into when I last tried it a long time ago when here with David (maybe a year ago). Reassuringly quite easy this time, probably could have led it without much issue (except the mantle top-out would have been an unpleasant surprise, is much easier to the right)
|
||||||
15 | ★ Clea Direct Finish - with Amy, thestig, Carl Schneider | 16m | ||||
Had logged this previously as climbed but do not recall it at all, so was probably another climb I did before. On Amy's preplaced gear. Nice climb. Hadn't eaten much that day so was mostly out of energy by this point
|
||||||
Sat 20th May 2017 - Black Hill | ||||||
Trackside | ||||||
14 | FA ★ Mr Forgetful - with thestig | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Top-roped a few weeks previously, then led with no warmup which wasn't the best idea - tired arms and some of the holds had reaccumulated sand. Nice climb, well protected.
|
||||||
Wed 17th May 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink - with Zhen | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent climb and impressive looking route. Looking forward to leading this next time.
|
||||||
Wed 17th May 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Zhen | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Definitely more run out if you don't climb out toward the campsite in last few metres (plenty of gear and more fun)
|
||||||
Wed 17th May 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon - with Zhen | 42m | ||||
Really nice climb. Juggy, few interesting moves. Zhen linked into one pitch with a bit of runout at start to avoid dragging rope around corner which seemed to work nicely
|
||||||
Wed 17th May 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong - with Zhen | 25m, 1 | ||||
Totally doable, but over ambitious for first climb of trip with someone I hadn't climbed with before - wasn't feeling confident so bailed from below the roof
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Apr 2017 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ A Trick of the Tail - with Amy | 8m | ||||
Attempted this in dark last time and it seemed easier not being able to see.. Second or so attempt managed to get out of the awkward body-wedging, but move of the big block seems quite powerful; even with some assistance from the toprope it was pretty pumpy getting to the top
|
||||||
Wed 19th Apr 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack - with Juliana | 80m | ||||
First pitch only, as quick climb before we headed home. Pretty long pitch, did not have many draws left by the top
|
||||||
Wed 19th Apr 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Juliana | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really fun climb. Almost forgot to put in gear at one point because I was comfortably settled in the cozy stem in middle of climb. Move at top was definitely felt like hardest part, but found reasonable gear before it. Jules had brief panic on way up because two nuts got stuck got stuck - Jackson joined us on the rappel, and used his climbing-arborist-skills to swing over and get one, and the couple climbing after us kindly dislodged the second and returned the nut that evening!
|
||||||
Wed 19th Apr 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase - with Nicola, Juliana | 100m | ||||
We were going to do Shroud, but 3 people already on it and 5 more waiting meant we went for quieter route which still did my favourite pitch from tennis court to the summit.
|
||||||
Wed 19th Apr 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Nicola, Juliana | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Went correct way this time - from first belay, up the jagged chimney, instead of continuing up the gully (although the gully way misses out the step-across, I seem to recall the climbing being more interesting, maybe?).
|
||||||
Sun 26th Mar 2017 - Waitpinga | ||||||
Cephalopod Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Lost Socks - with thestig, Annie | 31m, 4 | ||||
Picking up lost gear on Lost Socks. Move past the first bolt was hard. Almost gave up shortly after.. but glad I was encouraged into carrying on. Was good challenge - head seemed fine on highest graded trad/mixed route I've tried, but calves and big toes became really fatigued/painful, so wasn't confident about doing remainder of route, and had luckily passed all the gear that needed cleaned.. so bailed to chains of neighbouring route (a few metres below a bolt plate after the long trad section, maybe 2/3rds of way up?)
|
||||||
Wed 15th Mar 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo - with Zach | 33m | ||||
Nothing too hard, but seemed slightly runout before and after crux, only placing a nut midway while balanced on one tired foot.. Wandered off course into interesting looking cave to the right about 4/5th of way up, and belayed from there as it was nice and shady, and had good line of sight back down the climb
|
||||||
Mon 13th Mar 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | ||||||
2 | ★ Sunny Gully - with Zach | 12m | ||||
Quite a cruxy first move for a 2. Helping Zach practise placing gear
|
||||||
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Zach | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easier climbing than I remembered from seconding this. Took wrong turn early and arrived on wrong end of the tunnel, but other way still seemed decent enough route. Walked up to summit afterwards
|
||||||
Sun 5th Mar 2017 - Morialta | ||||||
Thorn Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Terrathea - with Amy, Kellie, Zach, thestig | 20m | ||||
Second attempt, got past pumpy beginning this time, and rest of climb is good. Beginning is more sequencey than it first looked, much unhelpful chalk
|
||||||
Sun 26th Feb 2017 - Raetjen's Gap | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★ Lead Break | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun challenge. Despite having done it like 3 times in past, took a minute to remember how to do the crux move (i.e the entire climb). Shame the top backs of so significantly - tried to make it more interesting by sticking to the slab right of crack, but impressive amount of birdpoop made that somewhat unappealing
|
||||||
11 | ★ Lyin' Eyes - with John, Merinda, Zach, Hannah | 14m | ||||
Assuming this is the climb at far right of main wall, just under the slanting crack.. A nice enough climb. I probably missed a hold at the cruxiest part, but still easy enough
|
||||||
Tue 21st Feb 2017 - Morialta | ||||||
The Billiard Table | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Billiard Table - with thestig | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb. One move which might have been quite hard were not for a very high step
|
||||||
18 | ★★ The Billiard Table - with thestig | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reclimbed in the dark with no light. A good challenge. One small slip where I stood up with only a tiny right-foot hold, and found no further hand or feet holds..
|
||||||
Tue 7th Feb 2017 - Belair National Park | ||||||
Workanda Creek Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ A Trick of the Tail | 8m | ||||
16 | The Right Hand Roof Crack | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Exceptionally boring climb name. Fun awkward chimneny. The dwindling light may have helped, as I'm pretty sure there was a lot of spiders in that cave bit..
|
||||||
Sun 22nd Jan 2017 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 3 - Right | ||||||
16 | ★ Feltch Me With a Crazy Straw Yeah Direct! - with thestig | 15m | ||||
Technically got to the top, albeit by about least clean method possible - pulled on QuickDraw to stand on the ledge, and used cam I happened to still have left on my harness to aid up the crack..
|
||||||
Sat 21st Jan 2017 - Montacute | ||||||
Left Tit | ||||||
18 | Nipular Ecstasy | 18m | ||||
Interesting heel-hook
mantle move. Steep walk to get to
The area
|
||||||
Mon 16th Jan 2017 - Morialta | ||||||
The Outcrops | ||||||
19 | ★★ Triad - with thestig, Hannah | 10m | ||||
First attempt at the harder left route. In the dark, without using head torch, for some reason.. Wasn't too bad, hardest bit was I kept losing ability to find one specific hold with my left hand near the top - three goes later, finally found it..
|
||||||
18 | ★ Noble House - with thestig, Hannah | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 6th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | ||||||
18 | ★ Free Beer | 30m | ||||
Not Tiptoe Ridge Direct start.. and 10 grades higher.. with about 8 metres before first reasonable gear placement, I get the feeling this was more enjoyable for me seconding..
|
||||||
Sun 6th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
After maybe taking unintentional grade 18 direct start, turned into nice easy but interesting route. The 2m abseil of the pinnacle was extremely sketchy and hard to pull ropes, but much less sketchy than trying to down climb the overhung face with zero holds.. Traversing around seems safer but final pitch is already pretty draggy and almost out of shouting range.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
10 | ★★ The Shroud | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing view distracted from easy but slightly unnerving lean over void at end of last pitch. Hanging abseil into valley just as sun was starting to set.
|
||||||
Fri 4th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First multipitch climb \o/
|
||||||
Fri 4th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo | 33m | ||||
Sun 16th Oct 2016 - Morialta | ||||||
The Outcrops | ||||||
9 | Aleos - with David | 12m | ||||
Previous attempt was first time climbing outdoors 7 months ago. Quite significantly easier today..
|
||||||
Sat 15th Oct 2016 - Morialta | ||||||
The Outcrops | ||||||
13 | Cold Heaven | 8m | ||||
18 | ★ Noble House - with David | 10m | ★★ Very Good |