Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
老岩场 Old School | ||||||
5.11a Easy | Gear on ★★ 大光板 Slab - with lollypop | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
加大版的新昌“长坂坡”,虽然是slab,其实点不少也不太扣,主要是俯角平衡。中间有步难点,暴露感强。快挂远,估计难度主要给了胆量系数
|
||||||
5.10d ~5.11a | ★★★ Body Cams 肉塞 - with lollypop | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
左塞右塞,上身蠕动,右脚抽筋,技巧需要提高。20多年前在河对岸看老炮爬这条线,如今在这条线上看20多年前爬的河对岸的5.7…
|
||||||
5.10c ~5.11a | ★★★ Little Dyno 小动态 - with lollypop | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
第一次在白河摸到包浆的线… 1进2在烂手点烂脚点dyno去个包浆sloper,至少是个V4。甩右手跳,看着是简单些。劈叉到右边的斜坡,翻起来静态过的,也是个V3+。结束右脚点也烂,V2-3吧。吃身高臂展,按现在的定级整体感觉是5.11,old school 果然硬核。
|
||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★★★ 水迹平衡 - with lollypop | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
爬得战战兢兢的一条10b,一直在对抗向右的开门。好线
|
||||||
Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
秘密花园 Secret Garden | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 诞生 Be Born - with lollypop | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
有些暴露感,小难点,干净,大点 #retroflash
|
||||||
5.11d ~5.11d | ★★ 渔舟唱晚 - with lollypop | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.11d ~5.11d | ★★ 渔舟唱晚 | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c | ★★ 流连 I am loving it - with lollypop | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
下半段V3,平台休息后,V2结束。可以爬得流畅
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ 流连 I am loving it | 15m, 6 | ||||
脚滑蹭破皮…
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ 左右逢源 | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
夹角撑撑线
|
||||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
精灵谷 Jinglinggu 大洞区 | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 儿童节快乐P1 Happy Children's Day P1 - with lollypop | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
动作丰富的长线,2进3是难点
|
||||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
精灵谷 Jinglinggu 露天剧场 | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ 一锤定音 - with lollypop | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
侧拉动作不错,不过有土磨绳,扣分
|
||||||
5.12a | 指短情长 - with lollypop | 12m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
结束单步难点,没点,可能有个米粒大的扣扣,难道要dyno?
|
||||||
5.11c Easy | ★★ 阳光明媚 - with lollypop | 19m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
放挂,热身
|
||||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - 白河 Baihe | ||||||
精灵谷 Jinglinggu 露天剧场 | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 夜凉如水 | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c Easy | ★★ 阳光明媚 - with lollypop | 19m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
不常见的“左拥右抱”的风格,推荐 #soft
|
||||||
5.11c Easy | ★★ 阳光明媚 - with lollypop | 19m, 7 | ||||
企图直上…
|
||||||
5.11a | Gear on ★★ 夜凉如水 - with lollypop | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
有一步小动态 需要决心,犹豫了
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ 春风化雨 - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
均匀大点,挺舒服
|
||||||
5.10d | ★ 开卷有益 - with lollypop | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
夹角撑撑线
|
||||||
Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Kowloon | ||||||
Crux | ||||||
V4 ~V4 | ★ Crux gym problem - with lollypop | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Kowloon | ||||||
Player | ||||||
V4 ~V4 | ★★★ Player problem - with lollypop | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Large space, lots of overhang, neo-style
|
||||||
Tue 12th Dec 2023 - Hong Kong Island | ||||||
Monkey Buttress Right Sector | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Back to School - with lollypop | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Balancy slab, juggy flake, undercutty dyno, fingery face
均匀的V2-3,4种风格 |
||||||
Tue 12th Dec 2023 - Hong Kong Island | ||||||
Monkey Buttress Left Sector | ||||||
6b | ★★ Impavidi Destini - with lollypop | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
线路虽短,动作俱全,face slope略难
|
||||||
Tue 12th Dec 2023 - Hong Kong Island | ||||||
Monkey Buttress Right Sector | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Hellish - with lollypop | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
难点在第四挂片,掉了。练习涨拳、大臂、大腿等技巧的好线
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Cheeky Monkey - with lollypop | 9m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
awkward crack, #hard for the grade
脚一直在抖… |
||||||
Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Kowloon | ||||||
Beacon Hill Main Wall | ||||||
6a+ | Gear on ★★ Blue Cross - with lollypop | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★ Spitting Cobra - with lollypop | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
沿夹角上,干净,均匀。基本都是对手要用力。过了难点,上不了左脚…
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Moon Night's Snake - with lollypop | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
前面比较简单,就结束一步难点,上右脚侧身dyno,脱脚
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Pretty Girl - with lollypop | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
挂片多,下半段有点balance,用了arete,挂了正上方的顶,不是路书上左边的顶
|
||||||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Hong Kong Island | ||||||
Central Crags Mid Levels Crag | ||||||
6c | ★★ Road to Damascus - with lollypop | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
大动作,平衡, 均匀,多样, 容错不高
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Independence Day - with lollypop | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
鞋尖爆了,滑了。 平衡,不抠,暴露感,均匀。这次爬的几条6a/b里最好的线了
|
||||||
8b | Hong Kong Style - with lollypop | 16m, 10 | Don't Bother | |||
当成6c爬,到了难点发现太难
|
||||||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Hong Kong Island | ||||||
Central Crags Soho Crag | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Peel Street - with lollypop | 24m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
均匀,技巧,起步和快结束有些难
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Centralsauras | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
起步小仰角,reachy
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Centraline | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crack, balance
|
||||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Jamm It ! - with lollypop | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
不容易
|
||||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Honey Hole - with lollypop | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11d | ★★ Jonny No Try - with lollypop | 7 | ||||
和两年前感觉不是同一条线,还是抠
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Round About | 14m, 7 | Average | |||
横切难点, 需要合适的鞋和不潮湿的岩壁…
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Joe's Valley | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Viva le Sand P1 - with lollypop | 33m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
长 均匀,心流的感觉。66m的绳子不够,需要至少70m的绳子
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Dragon Air P1 - with lollypop | 33m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
帮人清顶,还是脚点没踩到… 拆挂比先锋还难,没法跳挂…不过最近状态回来点, 耐力和岩感比5月好多了
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Joe's Valley | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Nasi Goreng - with lollypop | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
不无聊,中间有难点和暴露感,干净。
|
||||||
5.11+ | ★ Like a Lizards Elbow P1 - with lollypop | 24m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
难点在中间翻包,难点动作和难度和甲米的 Schwer und Steil 7a 很像, 整体难度也差不多。
|
||||||
5.9 | Mojito - with lollypop | 20m, 9 | Don't Bother | |||
建议顶可以下移一个挂片,不磨绳,也好拆, 不影响甚至提高线路质量
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ 燃烧 Crash and Burn - with lollypop | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.12a | ★★ 躲猫猫 The Artful Dodger - with lollypop | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
指力不济
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ 躲猫猫 The Artful Dodger - with lollypop | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
有趣的冷门线路: 力量,指力平衡,仰角大点耐力。下半段难。风格这么多, 居然不热门。
|
||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★ 磨溪村 Moxi Village — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
冷门线路,不过依然有惊喜。下半段大点热身 休息。上半段是个V4, 仰角休息, 再来个V3。感觉比单体难。两个难点都比较tricky,对175身高臂展来说, 需要比较多技巧和准确的手脚点的选择,才能爬得比较省力。 #4go V4 是看了花花的技巧: crimp后挂左脚,左手反提, 左脚下高点, 右脚平衡起, 右手直接进洞里的一个好一些的点, 上左脚,上左手, 上右脚, 左脚上到crimp高点折膝出左手到大点。V3的一个右手交叉手,有效点是指洞冲里的,所以重心要出来反而稳定,左脚踩之前V4的左手点尖尖,上右脚才比较合适出左手。之后往左交叉手沿刃脊走简单,注意脚点选择。
|
||||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.12d | ★★ 牛仔酒吧 Honky Tonk | 25m, 10 | ||||
寻找难点beta中
|
||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★ 磨溪村 Moxi Village — 2 attempts | 17m, 7 | ||||
难点在上半段,有些大发力,并不简单,比单体难
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ 甜筒 Vedro | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
大点小仰角
|
||||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
田家河 TianJia River 竹帘洞 Bamboo Cave | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Flying the Bird | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
比较均匀,难点在最后一挂
|
||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Chalky boobs 波霸 | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
好线,对5.9 来说略难
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ 卧虎藏龙 Hidden Dragon — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
大点天花板,勾挂脚可以歇力。干就完了,最难V3。#3go
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Brown Gunk | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
适合热身,不错
|
||||||
Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Boulderbar Wien | ||||||
Die Traverse | ||||||
6A+ ~6B+ | ★★ Riders on the Storm | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mostly Old school style, crimpy and power.
|
||||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Edelweiss Center | ||||||
4A to 7B+ ~5C | ★★ Edelweiss-Center | ★ Good | ||||
Not so competition style, more power and crimp
|
||||||
Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Mödlinger Klause | ||||||
Efeugrat | ||||||
7 | ★★ Rechtsdrall - with Ashley | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Power crux at the overhang, could be reachy
|
||||||
7+ | ★★ Direkter Hias - with Ashley | 35m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
drag…. Went to the wrong routes, twice…
|
||||||
7- Hard | ★★★ Luis - with Ashley | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two V2 crux, fun
|
||||||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞中 | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ 斗牛 | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
均匀 有趣 可以爬出心流的感觉
|
||||||
5.11a ~5.11b | ★★ 刺龟 - with lollypop | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
起步右kneebar, 大仰角烟囱,右横切是难点,应该从低位走,还能有个右kneebar,直壁挂顶
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★ 赖皮 - with lollypop | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
大点,后面大角度,适合热身
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞外 | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ 别有洞天 | 15m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
边先锋边收挂好累😞
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞口 | ||||||
5.10c ~5.10d | ★★ E5 | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
起步和结束难。对10c来说硬
|
||||||
Fri 11th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞外 | ||||||
5.11b | ★★★ NB bang | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
均匀的V2-3一路到顶,戴个右脚pad会有帮助,应该有3个kneebar可以休息
|
||||||
5.12a | Gear on ★★ 别有洞天 | 15m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
十分罕见的3D大仰角风格,必爬线路。全程大点,V2 - 好休息 - V3+ - 好休息 - V3+,挂顶最难, 可以有个左脚kneebar。可惜没带pad, knee不稳,要是挂顶不进,就掉了…
|
||||||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞口 | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ 发发要命 - with lollypop | 27m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
耐力不够,以后再说
|
||||||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞中 | ||||||
5.12a | Kneepad ★★ 左右逢源 - with lollypop | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
#4go 基本是个V4抱石, 左边可以两个kneebar挂第二第三挂,这次没出意外,之后就简单。 右边也可以走,估计难度差不多。拆挂比红线还累……
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ 猫山王 - with lollypop | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
均匀,线如其名,点都很扎,不会想再爬一次了。
|
||||||
Tue 8th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞口 | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 白虎 - with lollypop | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
均匀,干净,动作丰富,耐力。
|
||||||
Tue 8th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞中 | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ 左右逢源 — 3 attempts - with lollypop | 12m, 5 | ||||
抱石风格,左右都可以走,选择了左边练kneebar,一把摸动作。第二把第二个kneebar死活找不到…。第三把吸取教训戴了pad, 结果第一个kneebar卡死了出不来,抓着快挂折腾了好久…
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ 左撇子 | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
渗水,起步略难,V2+。后面是烟囱爽线。推荐
|
||||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞口 | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ 发发要命 - with lollypop | 27m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
中间有个左切的难点, 三个双反肩,再加点头大法过的, V4吧。后面还有大仰角大点
|
||||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
牛鼻洞 洞中 | ||||||
5.12b | Gear on Kneepad ★★★ 陷阱 - with lollypop | 16m, 11 | ||||
向右横切掉了,回不去了,心态有点崩
|
||||||
5.12a Hard | Gear on Kneepad ★★★ 春秋战国 - with lollypop | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
大点天花板,差一把挂到顶,耐力不够,天花板的心态还要练
|
||||||
5.10b | Gear on ★★ 五十度灰 - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
大点,有点角度
|
||||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
望雕崖 | ||||||
5.11c/d | ★★ 刺梨 - with lollypop | 28m, 13 | ||||
爬串线了, 后面切到右边去了...
|
||||||
Sat 5th Aug 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
望雕崖 | ||||||
5.10+ ~5.10 | ★★ 19度的夏天 - with lollypop | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
比左边那条简单,均匀有趣,都是大点,可以爬得很流畅。推荐用于热身
|
||||||
5.10c Hard | ★★ 妃子笑 - with lollypop | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
比较均匀, 有些小难点会卡一下。
|
||||||
Sun 28th May 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Dragon Air P1 - with lollypop | 33m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
左侧拉好多,收挂下山
|
||||||
Sun 28th May 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Lower 40 | ||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★★ Angry Baboon - with lollypop | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 27th May 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Dragon Air P1 — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 33m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
下半段比较均匀,不错。屋檐难点正好拉直,右脚盲踩,运气不好… 上半段挂片偏,没啥意思。感觉P1可以顶往下移, 线路比较正,也不磨绳,也不影响难度。
|
||||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
Mika's Ledge | ||||||
5.11a ~5.11b | ★★ Red Beans And Rice - with lollypop | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
比较均匀,不简单
|
||||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 老玩童 - with lollypop | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
中间可休息, 上下都有小难点,质量不错,有些动作
|
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5.11c | ★★ 红双喜 - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
上半段难点,扣
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5.10c | ★★ 路漫漫 | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
耐力长线,有点意思,热身好线。别被第五挂片的梅陇锁迷惑了, 不是顶…
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ||||||
庙南峪 云谷山 | ||||||
5.11c Hard | ★★ 左右为难 — 2 attempts - with 青炎, lollypop | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
os不容易,点隐蔽。需要技巧平衡, 抱冰箱 #2go
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5.10a ~5.10b | Gear on ★★ 咖啡厅 - with lollypop | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
需要点动作
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5.12b | ★★★ 飘 — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
耐力完全不够
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5.10b Hard | ★★ 米线 - with lollypop | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
干净,不无聊,点比较隐蔽 #retroFlash #2go
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Thu 6th Apr 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ||||||
庙南峪 云谷山 | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 飘 - with lollypop | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
丰富,均匀,需要脚法,好线。让我想起了富民的12b 罗米娜
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5.11c | ★★ 妙顶生花 - with lollypop | 18m, 8 | ||||
5.12b ~5.11d | ★★ 战龙在野 - with lollypop | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
一天阴雨,出点阳光就灿烂。有挂还是简单不少。 #3go 屋檐下正好热身,翻过两个连续屋檐是难点,最后也别掉以轻心,手脚点有限,不要犯错。
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5.11b ~5.11a | ★ 枣不着北 — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 18m, 9 | Don't Bother | |||
单步大跨度难点, 知道手脚点了不难。顶靠里,磨绳。可以把顶往外移,向上移3m也可以。
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Wed 5th Apr 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ||||||
庙南峪 云谷山 | ||||||
5.12b ~5.11d | ★★ 战龙在野 - with 小西瓜最爱红配绿 | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
脚抽筋,硬红失败,耐力渣
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5.12b ~5.11d | ★★ 战龙在野 - with lollypop | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
出了屋檐,挂了倒数第二挂片, 没找到右边点。os失败,渣耐力
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5.11a ~5.11d | Gear on ★★ 宿醉 - with lollypop | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
起步小难点,中间主要难点,动作有趣
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5.10b Hard | ★ 洞里有宝 - with 青炎 | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||