Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.
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5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.
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5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Notch through first bulge was wet, so had to divert to the right. Not easier, just drier.
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5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.
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5.8 ~5.8 | ★ Ovipositor to Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Climbed the start of Ovipositor, until the roof, then escaped left onto Sunday Morning Stroll.
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5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Zeit | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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5.7 | Stairway to Hell - right variant | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
5.6 Easy | Pile poil | 2 | Don't Bother | |||
5.8 | ★★ Chas percé | 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 Hard | ★ La vieille | 1 | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Métaphysique de Descartes | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
5.9 ~5.8 | ★★ 4 à 6 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 Easy | ★★ Haute en couleur | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 | ★★ La voie normale | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Rencontre au sommet | 28m | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★★ Trois fois rien | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 | ★ La quatre voies | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 Easy | Right Arete | Average | ||||
5.6 Easy | ★★ Highball | Average | ||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Mysophobie | 6 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Gros orteil | 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 4 | ||||
5.5 | ★ La lili | 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
5.9 Easy | ★★ Open Season | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b Easy | ★★ La Madrina | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Had a foot slip, and thought I was going for a ride, but my hand was wedged into a crack, so it caught me. I think I may have wrenched my left shoulder a bit, though.
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5.10b | ★★ Assimilation | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
After 7 or 8 falls at the second bolt, my fingers were starting to ache from the crimps, so I gave up.
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5.4 | Black Book | 15m | ||||
same, TR before bolting. Pretty consistent at 5.4, and everyone loves having a 5.4 sport route around, right?
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5.7 | ★★★ In The Black | 15m | ||||
Thinking of throwing some bolts in here, wanted to TR it again to see what I thought.
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5.9 ~5.10b | Real Men Don't Place Pro | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
This is, very definitely "old school" 5.9. Crux is probably around 5.10b, but (at least) protected by a bolt. Rest of the gear to that point doesn't look great, either.
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5.10b | ★★ Locutus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprised at how easily this went. Really good friction today with the cooler temperature must have helped.
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5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
One fall because I screwed up the beta at the crux.
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5.9 | ★★ Warbird | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Make it So | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Agios Andreas | ||||||
5c+ Hard | ★★ Joker | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5c | ★★ Rambo | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★ Dirty Harry | 18m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
The most uncomfortable of my 5c leads for the trip -- the first half was always insecure -- slopy slippery hands and feet the whole way. I am just glad it was so closely bolted it was never particularly scary, despite being so insecure.
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5c | ★★ Legolas | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5a | ★ Django | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4c | ★ Bilbo | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5b | ★★ Skali | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Clipping/cleaning the anchors is much harder than 5b, but I can understand that that's where the bolts needed to be.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Geraki Wave | ||||||
5b+ ~5b | ★★ Souvlakias | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Might be 5b+ if you're not comfortable with a hand-jam or two, but everyone should be.
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5b | ★★ Platanos | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit squeezed bewteen the routes to the left and right.
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6a | ★★ Hani marounta | 20m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Orange line | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent line, too bad the adacent root squeezes it so badly.
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5c Easy | ★★ Mikros mystras | 18m | Average | |||
One 5c move.
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5b+ ~5b | ★ Maleatis apollo | 18m | ★ Good | |||
5c ~5b+ | ★ Nikiforos vrettakos | 18m | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★★ The 100 day road | 18m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Krousma | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | (new bolts left of Krousma) | 17m, 8 | ||||
Did all the moves, but took several tries at the crux.
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Dornröschen | ||||||
5c | ★★ Es war einmal... | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Also good climbing, but sharper than Three Kings, so sometimes the holds just hurt more.
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5c | ★★ Three Holy Kings | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing on jugs. I was tired when I lead this, having just fought with one of the 6bs (on TR), but this opened up, and we had to grab it.
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Egon | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed easier than Egon to the left, and better climbing and better bolting.
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Yvonne | 14m | ★ Good | |||
At least one of the guide-books calls this 6b+. It would not be a comfortable lead unless confident at the grade, as the bolting is a bit sparse by local standards.
I got all the moves -- but with lots of falls along the way. |
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5a ~5b | Borge | 17m | Crap | |||
Badly bolted and squeezed by the route to the left. Not worth climbing unless you want to set up top-ropes on the 6Bs to the right which share the anchor.
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5a | ★ Terrier Brothers | 17m | Average | |||
A real squeeze-job with Borge to the right.
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Agios Petros | ||||||
Zonaga | ||||||
6a | ★★ Marianna | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I just couldn't read the moves fast enough without pumping, AFTER the crux. I was two moves from the no-hands rest. Excellent climb, and I'm sure I could red-point it, if I ever climb it again, since I'd know enough of the moves to not pump out as quickly.
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5c | ★★ Kontakis | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit tough for a warm up, and the holds were a bit hard to read, but were all there.
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5b ~5c | ★ Kronion | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Do not get on this climb expecting a usual Leonidio-area 5a lead.
Guide book says 5a -- but no way. It is harder than Kontakis (which seemed a solid 5c) (agreed by several climbers with very different body sizes and climbing styles. |
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5b | ★★ Dutch cyclist | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5a | ★ Margarita | 13m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better, and steeper, than it looks.
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5c | ★ Locas Botas | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
I found some bad beta, and probably made it more like 6a at the top.
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Ilektra | ||||||
5a | ★★ Ilektra | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good climbing, but the exposure on the arete makes it a classic.
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5b | ★ Gabriel | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | ||||||
6a ~5c | ★ Podikus | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Route-finding on a traverse can be less obvious than on a more vertical route -- but if you find the best way through, this is no harder than 5c. And quite enjoyable.
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5a - b | ★ Juliett Extension | 15m, 10 | ||||
Guide book suggests extension is 5b, but really 5a seems fair.
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5b - c ~5c | ★★ Giota | 15m, 10 | ||||
Seems solid at 5c.
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6a | ★★ Tokotoukan | 15m, 9 | ||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Red Rock | ||||||
4c | ★ Masterplan | 20m | ★ Good | |||
4b | ★ Soft Parade | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Hospital | ||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Psila | 40m | ||||
6a ~5c+ | ★★ Manolis Glezos | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.5 Hard | ★★ Le Marchand de Sable | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of wet on it, made it noticeably harder than 5.8
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5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
sigh one fall at the crux.
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5.7 ~5.8 | ★ La Belle de Cadix | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
It has gotten more and more polished.
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5.7 | ★★ Le Castor Bricoleur | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Weir | ||||||
Mur de l'ouest Ionescu | ||||||
5.10b | Romulus | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Hard start, with an intimidating ledge fall if you don't make the 2nd clip -- I'd be inclined to suggest stick-clipping bolt 2.
Rest of the climb is mellow, with a touch of though needed near the end. |
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5.10a | ★★ Ace Rimmer | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Peril Inoxydable | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Carnage d'Acier | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ L'Entre Deux | 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall at the top bulge, because I missed finding a foot out to the left. Once I noticed it, finished smoothly.
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5.8 | ★★★ Le Diedre | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still my favourite climb at the crag.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Le Mur Principale | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10b | ★ Gueule de Loup | 21m, 3 | ||||
I was not able to make the moves past bolt 2, yet I was able to climb "L'Entre Deux" (5.10b) later the same day. No way those moves are 5.9.
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5.7 | ★★ La Fruitee | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
More crack-protected face climbing than crack climbing. Not a bad climb, but not my favourite.
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5.7 | ★★ Momo | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 with crack skills, harder without.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Ground Zero | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
5.5 | ★★ Route C | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.4 | ★★ Route B | 10m | ★★★ Classic |