Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.10a |
★★ Blind Faith (Blind Faith P1)
1
5.10a
38m
| 38m, 13 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Jan 2019 | |||
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5.10a 5.10c | ★★ City Folk | 16m, 7 | Calabogie | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Apr 2021 | |||
While I can't comment on how hard the direct sequence is, the "jugs out left" sequence is nothing like 5.10c. This was no harder than "Hakuna Matata" or "The Hulk" (main line of The Hulk -- not jugs out left there), and definitely easier than "Breakfast Cookie" (10b). So, much as I'd love to claim a 5.10c on-sight, I really don't feel it is justified by the actual climbing difficulty, no matter how stiff the rating.
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6a |
★★ Filo de Cuchilla (Filo de Cuchilla P2)
2
6a
25m
| 25m, 11 | Mogote del Valle | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Jan 2020 | |||
Did Marcelino... as my first pitch, then this.
Nice exposure, and it wasn't as sharp as I expected based on the guidebook. Perhaps the best pitch I climbed in Cuba. |
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5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Flight Deck | 39m, 16 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Aug 2015 | |||
Was olanning to lead Promenade (mostly 5.9) then part way into the upper section, noticed bolts to my left... oops I'm on the 5.10a section of Flight Deck instead of the (easier) Promenade.
Good climbing with interested problems and exposure. Sadly, doesn't seem often climbed -- so a bit mossy, licheny, and with occasional important holds buried in pine needles. |
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6a | ★★ Comiquita | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | |||
My favourite of the three on the wall.
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6a | ★★ Pitú | 20m, 6 | Mogote del Valle | ★ Good | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | |||
Easy going until the crux at the start of the tube.
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6a | ★★ Recessed Slab & Crack | 23m | Alcalali | Fri 3rd May 2019 | ||||
6a ~5c+ | ★★ Manolis Glezos | 40m | Leonidio | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Oct 2023 | |||
6a | ★★ Tokotoukan | 15m, 9 | Leonidio | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | ||||
6a ~5c | ★ Podikus | 28m | Leonidio | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | |||
Route-finding on a traverse can be less obvious than on a more vertical route -- but if you find the best way through, this is no harder than 5c. And quite enjoyable.
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6a | ★★ Les montagnards sont la | Tournoux | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | ||||
Stemming, jamming, and just some hard pulling. A lot of work, but excellent.
It was the end of the day, I was tired... but I just couldn't resist this route. |
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6a | Fraise d'or | Tournoux | Average | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | ||||
Very inconsistent -- mostly easy bits, with a couple of much harder moves.
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6a | ★★ La bonne poire - with Noah Boudreau-Richard | 200m | Ailefroide | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | |||
Climbed this instead of Ecrins, and quite enjoyed it. Then climbed Ecrins. I took 2/4/6.
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6a 6a - c | Persepolis | 20m | Tournoux | Average | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | |||
Took the 6a variation. Finish is very awkward.
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6a | ★★ Hani marounta | 20m | Geraki Wave | ★ Good | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
6+ | ★★ Muskelriss | 33m, 14 | Albbruck | ★ Good | Sat 30th Aug 2014 | |||
5c+ | ★★★ Rivière Kwai (Riviere Kwai) - with Noah Boudreau-Richard | 450m | Ailefroide | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Jun 2019 | |||
Lead 6 of the 14 pitches. Excellent climbing, especially the 2nd half.
We had trouble finding the right rappel line, though. |
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5c+ | ★★ L'arc àl'pin | Casse de Prelles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
5c+ Hard | ★★ Joker | 20m, 12 | Agios Andreas | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | |||
5c+ | ★★ 1 | Rocher du Bez | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.10a |
★★ Jungle Mountaineering
1
5.9
lead by
Shaun
2
5.9
lead by
Shaun
3
5.9
lead by
dagibbs
4
5.10a
lead by
dagibbs
| 120m | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Dec 2014 | |||
Climbed with Gen and Shaun, using two 70m ropes. Shaun lead & linked first two pitches. I took over to do pitch 3, got to the anchor, and thinking the final pitch was easier (5.8) figured I could also link the pitches, and would be fine with the weight of two ropes hanging on me. Oops... that was the crux pitch, not the easy pitch. Happy to pull all the 10a moves with extra weight. Lots of grunting involved, though.
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5.10a | ★★★ Will the Wolf Survive? | 110m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Jan 2017 | |||
Followed P1, which had some surprisingly hard moves for 5.8. Lead the remaining pitches. P2 was physical. P3 was really long, and really tiring -- probably nothing harder than 5.9, but wow it is sustained. P4 has a few hard moves, but overall I'd say an easier pitch than P3. The moves off the anchor are... interesting...
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5.10a | ★★ This Dog's Life | 28m | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Wed 24th Dec 2014 | |||
A couple interesting moves, but not overly hard.
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5.10a 5.10a to 5.10b | ★★ Kelso's Way (Kelso's Way - short) | 37m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Wed 24th Dec 2014 | |||
Probably should have done the full route, but wasn't sure how hard the top section was. Didn't want to lose the on-sight.
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5.10a | ★ Cresent Moon | 27m, 7 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Jan 2019 | |||
Soft -- maybe one 5.10a move, not sustained, but fun movement.
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5.10a Easy | ★★ Mr Jesus | 29m, 8 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Thu 23rd Feb 2023 | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Missing Link | 28m | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Sep 2019 | |||
Lots of thin climbing at the grade.
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5.10a | ★ Holes to Heaven | 12m, 9 | Canmore | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Sep 2019 | |||
Felt easier than the 5.9s - less steep, but, perhaps, more technical?
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5.10a | ★★ Poker Face | 30m, 12 | Canmore | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Sep 2019 | |||
The opening section was quite wet, making the start quite a bit more difficult than it should have been -- probably climbed at about 5.10b. It also had several other solidly 5.10a climbing, though with reasonable rests between sections. Definitely a fun climb, and solid at the grade.
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5.10a | ★ Scene of the Crime | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2019 | |||
I found the steep lower section very pumpy -- managed to pull through, but took a good long rest on the ledge once I got there. No problem with the technical/thin finish.
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5.10a | ★ Venus Envy | 7 | Rumney | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
The initial bulge, as you click the first bolt, looks a lot steeper when you're below it than when you're looking up from the base of the route, but it goes well on good holds. The crux is, actually, near the top of the upper face. My hardest on-sight at Rumney so far, I didn't expect to get it clean when I set out to lead it.
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5.10a | ★ Danielle's Throne | 20m, 7 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Sep 2017 | |||
5.10a | ★★ 31 Foot Smurf | 30m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Mar 2012 | |||
A good climb with some interesting moves.
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5.10a | ★★ La Flakita | 27m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Dec 2018 | |||
While the nominal grade of this climb appears to be 10c, I'm not sure it is even the 10a I'm claiming for this lead -- I think it might be closer to 5.9+.
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5.10a | ★★ Putas de Fuego | 30m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Dec 2018 | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Golden Werewolf | 23m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Dec 2018 | |||
Excellent steep climbing for the first half, then eases off a bit.
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5.10a | ★★ Jungle Fever | 61m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Dec 2018 | |||
Not climbed as often due to the approach (3 pitches of Jungle Mountaineering then a scramble), so still definitely EPC sharp! Good climbing to a nice ridge finish.
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5.10a | ★★ Mexican Squeeze Job | 26m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Dec 2017 | |||
5.10a | ★ Noire Gluante | 22m, 1 | La montagne du Tranchant | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||
Good technical climbing -- not as hard as I expected.
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5.10a | ★ L2 | 17m | Red Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Dec 2012 | |||
First bolt has a couple tricky moves to reach and felt a bit high, otherwise route goes well.
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5.10a | ★ Real Good Time | 12m, 6 | Canmore | Fri 6th Sep 2019 | ||||
Fun climbing, but not overly hard.
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5.10a | ★★★ Pangborn | 45m, 11 | Alabama Hills | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Oct 2013 | |||
Long, long, long -- but mostly 5.8 climbing. A few 5.9 sequences, and just one 5.10a move. A very soft-feeling 5.10a climb.
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5.10a | ★★★ Alabama Hills Gang | 45m, 17 | Alabama Hills | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 10th Oct 2013 | |||
Last climb of the day, and I expected it to go easier than Pangborm since the guide gives this as 5.9, but it is clearly harder. I did both on lead, but another climber who lead Pangborn but followed this felt that this was, also, clearly harder.
Sustained thin 5.9 at the start, hard move after the ramp, then a sustained mix of 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a moves up the upper section. And it just keeps going and going. |
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5.10a Hard | ★★ Wacko Tango | 12m, 5 | Red Rock: Pet Wall | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
5.10a | ★ Dab Hand | 23m, 9 | Banff | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Sep 2019 | |||
Fun, but mostly pretty easy going.
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5.10a | ★ Bat Cave | 15m, 6 | Banff | ★ Good | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | |||
Technical, balancy, and thinky -- rewards good foot work.
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5.10a | ★★ Timon y Pumba | 50m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Jan 2018 | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk | 16m, 6 | Calabogie | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jul 2016 | |||
Reminded me of the climbing/rock at Mont Rigaud.
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5.10a | ★★ Father and Son | 25m, 7 | Eagle's Nest | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jun 2018 | |||
Only 7 bolts, not 8 as described here. I need to update that.
Hard, and run-out in places, making it scary at times to go with the hard. |
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5.10- 5.10a | ★ Überhang | 23m, 7 | Lac Boisseau | ★ Good | Sat 4th Sep 2021 | |||
5.10a | ★★ La Facil Facil | 29m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Sat 5th Jan 2019 | |||
Easy down low, then thin technical crimping for the 2nd half. Felt like a real 10a.
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5.10a | ★ Who’s afraid of the Black Bear | 31m | Banff | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Sep 2019 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Harp and Bowl | 32m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | |||
Excellent climbing - moves & rests.
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5.10a 5.10- | ★ Strolsma | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||
Tricky to read when on-sighting, I had to down-climb one bit and try a different approach. 5.10a likely fair if you know the beta.
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5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. | 12m, 5 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Thu 27th May 2021 | |||
I found this generally pretty mellow -- more 5.9/5.9+ than 5.10a -- but it may be height-dependent at the crux, so 5.10a may be a fair grade.
The climb feels like it ends too soon, though. There's this lovely final bulge to pull, with some nice jugs to do it with... but you're at the anchors. I might have put the anchors above a horizontal on the slab... but that might have made for more rope drag over the edge when lowering off. |
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5.10a | ★★★ (new sport route left of Reluctant Gardner) | 20m | West Kootenays | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Sep 2020 | |||
5.10a Hard | ★★ La Transe | 21m, 8 | Paroi Laurin - La Macaza | ★ Good | Sun 25th Jun 2023 | |||
5c | ★★ La rage de buller | 20m | Rocher Baron | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Aug 2022 | |||
Fun climb, and 5c if you find the right moves.
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5c | Sympa le toit | Vizille - Les Petites Jorasses | Sun 8th Jun 2008 | |||||
5c | ★★ Chourmo - with Noah Boudreau-Richard | Mont-Dauphin | ★ Good | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | ||||
5c | ★★ M. Vertigo - with Noah Boudreau-Richard | Mont-Dauphin | ★ Good | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | ||||
5c | ★ La Taille du Bambou | Mont-Dauphin | Average | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | ||||
5c | ★★ Three Holy Kings | 30m, 11 | Leonidio | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Oct 2023 | |||
Excellent climbing on jugs. I was tired when I lead this, having just fought with one of the 6bs (on TR), but this opened up, and we had to grab it.
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5c | ★ Locas Botas | 13m, 7 | Agios Petros | ★ Good | Tue 24th Oct 2023 | |||
I found some bad beta, and probably made it more like 6a at the top.
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5c | ★★ Kontakis | 20m, 10 | Agios Petros | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th Oct 2023 | |||
A bit tough for a warm up, and the holds were a bit hard to read, but were all there.
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5c | ★★ La sieste au soleil | Rocher Baron | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | ||||
5c | ★★ Vacances Cool | Tournoux | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | ||||
5c | ★★ Lézard maniac | 35m | Rocher Baron | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||
5c | ★★ Grand frère ((sans nom 7)) | 20m | Rocher Baron | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||
5c | ★★ Ribouldinque | 20m | Rocher Baron | ★ Good | Wed 17th Aug 2022 | |||
5c | ★★ Croguignole | 20m | Rocher Baron | ★ Good | Thu 20th Jun 2019 | |||
5c+ 5c | Tania (Tiana) | 16m, 10 | Puy Chalvin | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||
Of the three "5c"s in this section, this one was far away the hardest.
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5c | ★ Ley La La | 25m | Puy Chalvin | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||
5c | ★★ Magic roc | 30m, 15 | Puy Chalvin | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||
5c | ★★ Legolas | 17m | Agios Andreas | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | |||
5c | ★ Dirty Harry | 18m, 11 | Agios Andreas | ★ Good | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | |||
The most uncomfortable of my 5c leads for the trip -- the first half was always insecure -- slopy slippery hands and feet the whole way. I am just glad it was so closely bolted it was never particularly scary, despite being so insecure.
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5c | ★★ Rambo | 20m, 12 | Agios Andreas | ★ Good | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | |||
5c ~5b+ | ★ Nikiforos vrettakos | 18m | Geraki Wave | ★ Good | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
5c Easy | ★★ Mikros mystras | 18m | Geraki Wave | Average | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
One 5c move.
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5c | ★★ Brosse dur | Chamandrin | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
5c+ 5c | ★★ Merlus | 15m, 9 | Chamandrin | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | |||
This is not the same 5c as any of the other 5c climbs at this crag. It is far more difficult and sustained.
It is, also, the best 5c at this crag. |
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5c | ★ Tombé du ciel | Chamandrin | Average | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
5c | ★ Dix petits négres | Chamandrin | Don't Bother | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Valencianos | 260m, 5 | Peñón de Ifach | ★ Good | Thu 2nd May 2019 | |||
I climbed this with Kate & Simon -- lead pitches 3 (crux), 5, and linked 7+8 (scramble) at the end -- wasn't going to belay at P7 belay as I was being dive-bombed by a sea gull who's nest was nearby.
Why I'm glad I did the route, the climbing was mostly lack-luster. Pitches 1 & 2 are dirty, polished, and easy. Pitch 3 is an unpleasant polished off-width. Pitch 4, after the badly polished start is ok climbing. Only pitches 5 and 6 have truly good climbing. And pitches 7 & 8 are mostly hiking/scrambling rather than really climbing. On the flip side, the ridge position at the end of pitch 5 is stunning, and the formation itself calls out to be climbed, and this is one of the few moderate routes to the summit. |
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5+ | ★★ Cilber | 160m | Sierra de Toix | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Apr 2019 | |||
Lead P1, and P3-P4 linked.
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5+ | ★★ Mojaita | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ★ Good | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | |||
5+ | ★★ Ojos Carmelitas | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | |||
My favourite of the three on this wall, and perhaps my favourite route in the Ensenada.
Soft for 5+, though -- more like 5 -- unless you don't route-find very well. |
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5+ | ★★ Torrenado | 14m | Mogote del Valle | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | |||
I like dihedral climbing, and this route is also a bit of a relief from much of the sharp rock around.
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5+ | ★★★ Psicología Infantil | 12m | Mogote del Valle | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | ||||
Another climb that is a relief from the sharp rock.
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5+ | ★ La roja seis | 15m | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Grand Grill | 25m | Sierra de Toix | ★ Good | Mon 4th Apr 2022 | |||
Run-out easier climbing to start and a steep harder finish.
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5+ | ★★ Juegos de Niños | 29m, 8 | Mogote del Valle | ★ Good | Tue 31st Dec 2019 | |||
I'd have been happier with less rusty bolts.
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5+ | ★ Wini Wini | 14m | Elda / Petrer | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | |||
I was tired, but Phil talked me into one more route. This went easier than I expected.
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5+ | ★★ Super Freire | Elda / Petrer | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | ||||
Quite a bit of work in places -- not as easy as Phil said it was.
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5c+ 5b | ★★ Écrins total - with Noah Boudreau-Richard | 200m | Ailefroide | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | |||
This was our aim -- but it was busy (very) when we arrived, so we did La bonne poire instead. Then took a nap. Around 4pm, the climb was free... so we scurried up it, then back down in, I think, 2 1/2 hours.
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5+ |
★★ Placa gris
- with
Phil Price
| 42m, 10 | Elda / Petrer | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Apr 2022 | |||
Lots of really good climbing.
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5+ |
★ Kiki
- with
Phil Price
| 40m, 14 | Elda / Petrer | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Apr 2022 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Selam | 39m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Dec 2014 | |||
A lovely lovely climb - but very long for a single-pitch climb.
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5.10a | ★★ Digestif | 12m, 6 | Lac Sam | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Ace Rimmer | 18m, 8 | Weir | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Sep 2022 |
Lots of good climbing on this pitch, and 10a is a fair rating.