Ascents by Douglas Hockly having Distinct route

Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.

It was a long time ago, but seemed more like 23

Don't really remember this, the climbing didn't stand out.

I had a great experience on this.. a bit scared, at my limit, but got up it. I thought it was great but YMMV

I thought this was really nice, and I think the gear would be better these days with micro cams. Could be 22.

Found this hard, maybe 24?

I did the sensible version - up XI to to the top of the crack, then L to the bolt. I found it quite technical, puzzling and blind. Good!

Has new bolts, yay.

Not that great. RPs at the start, it's a bit bold but the climbing and rock are not that great.

Not worth a star. There is gear to protect you before the bolt but the rock is pretty questionable. Climbing isn't that special.

This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.

Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.

I found this scary. The wires at the start take a lot of finding, and the top is runout above a dead tree to impale yourself on!

Bolts need replacing

Finish is runout, not the start.

Rusty bolt, fragile rock, dodgy gear, don't bother.

Hard scary start to desperate finish. Not 22, at all.

Start is a bit goey, even with bolt clipped. Crux moving out from top of flake feels blind and exposed and out there - but the runner is really not that far away. It just feels far away.

On my 23rd birthday!

Very good but slick

Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.

If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.

I saw Moorhead/Muir '81 in the guide and prepared myself to be sandbagged - but it is fair for 23 and the gear is ok - just an exception to keep you on your toes. Crux is not as nice as the rest of the route.

I didn't think this was worth a star... or even worth doing again.

Hard finish is out of keeping - The Squeaky Wheel is much better

Everyone, it seems, loves this route except me. It's a good looking line but there is a frightening amount of loose rock in the first half, an unpleasant slopey mantle and then a quite avoidable offwidth. The climbing's just not very good.

Interesting and varied.

Maybe 23?

Rapped down and looked at the gear first. IIRC there's nothing to the crux and not much after it but I got about 4 bits on the crux that I thought would hold a slump.

Did this about 1990 over two days. It's got good climbing but some slightly creaky flakes. You'd be mad not to place the side runner in MP - it's very close and much better than the RP's in the seam.

Good gear, great climbing, lovely route.

Desperately hard start

Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.

Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.

Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.

I really liked this -- big holds, varied, accessible grade. Good warmup for the others

Start is pretty horrible, but finish past the bolt is nice.

The only route I've ever done that it's handy to have 2 x #4RPs. Still a bit bold.

Didn't seem that great - a few moves and it's over. And they're not great moves.

Bolts probably need replacing now

Just the top flake. OK, not worth doing again.

A hard and scary start. These days I do Tangent and chuck in a cam on rap after the start and preclip it. A much easier start if you're tall is moving R onto the ledge and up the thin wall to the break. About 19 for me but gear is on the ledge so if you fell off it'd be an ugly fall.

Thin and hard start

Great route - steep, technical and sustained.

Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!

I found this quite hard and a bit scary. Wondered if hexes would help in the podded crack - these days link cams might do the trick. Backed off it one day and then lead it next time.

One #3RP if I remember right

Good but the hard bit is short if you start up Odin like we did.

Hard! and would be a goey lead off rp