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Ascents by Matthias Felix

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Showing all 34 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 8th Nov 2014 - Sulcis-Iglesiente
Buggerru Canyon di San Nicolo Grotta dei nasi lunghi
7a Le grandi navi lente Sport 20m Very Good
The cave is very nice, but be carefull with the path to the cave. We probably went wrong and climbed to it. It was a little dangerous The route itself was very nice, and also the other routs in the cave lokked very interessting. The distance between the bolds are a little bigger than otherwise in Sardinien, but absolute ok.

 
Tue 4th Nov 2014 - Sulcis-Iglesiente
Ombre Rosse
7a Nicotina Sport 20m Good
The crux was very nice with the overhang crag. The rest of the route is very ease. But its perfectly bolted.

 
Sun 12th Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Breitenstein
8 Breitendach Sport 15m Very Good
The Route has many different climbingstyles. The start is funny, then a not easy part short after the 2nd bolt. Good rest position after the 3th, but dont go to far to the right side, thats offroute in my opinion. And then the overhang in the end with good holds. Over all its a hard 8 or easy 8+ (in some books its rated as 8+). The bolts are placed perfect!

 
Sun 5th Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
9- Zeitmaschine Sport 30m Very Good
The start is in my opinion about 8- or 8 but very nice. Then the crux is over a few small sideholds, but if you figure out how to do it, its not that hard. So its an easy 9- in my opinion, more 8+. The Bolts are at the start very well. In the end sometimes a little bigger distances but there its realy easy.

 
Sat 4th Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Großenoher Tal Großenoher Wand
8+ Leere Hände Sport 18m Good
Quite easy for 8+. I would also be fine with 8. There are two crux in the Route. The first is about the second Bolt. I could clip also the Quickdraw into the bolt from below with 1,75m, but I shouldn't be 1 cm shorter. But its also safe to clip it later. The second crux is around the 5th bolt. Both cruxes are easy with the right foottechnique.

 
Fri 3rd Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Tüchersfelder Wand
8+ Abschneider Sport 23m, 8 Good
In the first try I didnt like the route. I was searching the hole time and thinking about is it offroute. But then I started to like the route with the next tries. The most hard part is short time before it goes into Marathon.The bolds are ok. Perhaps its a good idea to clip the first bolt with clipstick or use the first bolt from the following 4 routs. The third bolt (first together with Marathon) is far away, but the last 2 meters are easy.

 
Sun 28th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Etzelwanger Wand
8 What you need (direct) Sport 12m Good
Nice start-boulder. After that you climb the 7, but its a nice 7.

You can clip the first quickdraw, but in my first try I cliped it in with a clipstick, and I was glad about that. 2nd clip is high, but you are standing without hands on an edge, so its good protected!

 
Fri 26th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Mittelbergwand Linker Teil
8 Mendocino Sport 20m, 6 Average
Its difficult to clip the 3th quickdraw, and theres also the crux. Everything else is very easy. The crux is difficult to onsight. The bolds are quite good paced. In the end the distance is quite far but also very very easy.

 
Thu 18th Sep 2014 - Nago
Belvedere Sector B
7b+ Cave Cannam Sport 16m Very Good
Very nice route. The crux is the endurance. Every move is easy for 7b+, but you don't have any good rest position. Perfectly bolted, so you can skip bolts to save energy.

 
7a Urlo Del Vento Sport 14m Good
The start of the route is nice but not very difficult. But take care to climb efficient to not be pumped at the crux. The crux is to climb out of the overhang. It is so perfect protected, that you can skip the bolt after the overhang (at the crux) without any risk.

 
Wed 17th Sep 2014 - Nago
Falesia Segrom Sector D
7a 7a+ Titanic Sport 35m Classic
Probably the best route I ever climbed! The hole time it is overhang with small holds, but with some good rest positions. The only not perfect at this route is a too good rest position before the crux in the end. And it is perfectly bolted! You have to climb this route, if you go to Nago!

 
Wed 17th Sep 2014 - Nago
Falesia Segrom Sector F
7a+ 7a King Lear Sport 25m Good
If you use the wrong holds, the start is slippery. Clear crux at the small overhang. At the top a balance part and tricky to onsight. But it is well bolted.

 
Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Sud La Fattoria degli Struzzi
7b por un punhado de dolares Sport 20m
First half is more difficult than the end. It is perfect bolted!

 
7a bacinum Sport 18m Don't Bother
Only one nice part in the overhang, but it gets crap with a drilled pocket! In the end you have to find an hidden pocket, but if you know where it is, it is not difficult. Be carefull with the clip after the overhang, but over all it is not difficult for this grade!

 
Sat 13th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Anfiteatro
7a 7a+ Fix Sport 28m Don't Bother
Its very easy for 7a+. In my opinion 7a or more easy. The short Overhang is the only interesting part. All other is crap, but its good bolted.

 
Thu 11th Sep 2014 - Rovereto
Nomesino
7a Bucomagia Sport 25m Classic
One of the best routes I ever climbed. Long overhang on good holds. The start is more difficult but the difficulty is to have the endurance. The route is perfect bolted!

 
Wed 10th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca
Massone Settore B
7a Via le Man dal Cul (Via Le Man) Sport 26m Good
Far on the right side after the crux is a bold, which did not look like its one of the route, but it is. Otherwise it is a big distance to the next bold.

 
7a Cannonau Sport 26m Very Good
First climb the sinters without the side wall up to the big underclings. Short after that is the crux. Be careful, the clip at the crux / short after the crux is difficult, but a fall is not dangerous. Otherwise it is well protected.

 
Tue 9th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca
La Gola Il Tornante
7a India Sport 24m Average
The start is not difficult, but there is one time a big distance between the bolds with the same difficulty. At the top are two cruxes with a little rest postition between them.

 
Thu 4th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
8 8+ Hessisch Roulette rechter Ausstieg (Rechter Ausstieg) Sport 25m Very Good
The bolds are very good placed. Very save to lead it. For 8 its difficult, in some books its graded as 8+. I'm fine with both 8 and 8+. The crux is in the end direkt after the overhang if you are pumped you have to pull on small fingerpockets. But its a very nice route!

 
Thu 28th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Weidlwanger Wand
8+ Ton in Ton Sport 18m Good
One tricky but not very hard move, from begin to end an endurance problem. Hight first bolt for small people. panic quickdraw recommendable.

 
Sun 24th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Andeltodrom
8 Kauabonga Sport 8m Average
Very overhanging! Also possible to climb if its raining, but then last clip is difficult, because last holds are wet. But you can clip it from below.

 
Sat 23rd Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand
8 Computerspiele Sport 23m Classic
Very good route! Homogene in the difficult but with a tricky crux.

 
Sat 23rd Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Emporwand
8 Glasperlenspiel Sport 35m Don't Bother
Most part of the route is very easy. One technical part with small steps.

 
Sun 17th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Schlosserei
8 I hired a contract driller Sport 10m, 4
Sun 10th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main
8 Scheide Sport 15m
Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rolandfels
8 Hofnarr Sport 23m Good
one crux in the middle part. But after that still a little pumpy

 
Sat 2nd Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
8+ Aperitif Sport Average
Nice boulder. Only the top bold makes it to a sport-climbing route. Dont fall in the end, otherwise you fall on the ground, but the End is a easy 4. In my opinion the big right edge arount the first bold is offroute, otherwise its too easy for 8+.

 
Fri 1st Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand
8 Zahn um Zahn Sport 14m Good
Sun 20th Jul 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
8 Belegtes Brötchen Sport Average
Start on overhang, then easier (but not too easy) on sideholds, the end is not difficult.

 
Sun 6th Jul 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels
8 Geflecktes Zebra Sport 20m
Sat 14th Jun 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Langer Berg Wand Main
8 Only you complete me Sport 8m, 2
Sat 31st May 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
8 8+ Big Brother Sport 25m Good
Very hard crux in the middle Part. The start is quite easy, and the end a little pumpy. But over all a nice route. The bolds are paced nice. Some bigger distance, but there it is easy climbing.

 
Sun 4th May 2014 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Soranger Wand
8 Schweine im Weltall Sport 10m

Showing all 34 ascents.