Showing all 34 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 8th Nov 2014 - Sulcis-Iglesiente | ||||||
Buggerru Canyon di San Nicolo Grotta dei nasi lunghi | ||||||
7a | ★★ Le grandi navi lente | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The cave is very nice, but be carefull with the path to the cave. We probably went wrong and climbed to it. It was a little dangerous
The route itself was very nice, and also the other routs in the cave lokked very interessting. The distance between the bolds are a little bigger than otherwise in Sardinien, but absolute ok.
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Tue 4th Nov 2014 - Sulcis-Iglesiente | ||||||
Ombre Rosse | ||||||
7a | ★★ Nicotina | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The crux was very nice with the overhang crag. The rest of the route is very ease. But its perfectly bolted.
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Sun 12th Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Breitenstein | ||||||
8 | ★★ Breitendach | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The Route has many different climbingstyles. The start is funny, then a not easy part short after the 2nd bolt. Good rest position after the 3th, but dont go to far to the right side, thats offroute in my opinion. And then the overhang in the end with good holds. Over all its a hard 8 or easy 8+ (in some books its rated as 8+). The bolts are placed perfect!
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Sun 5th Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
9- | ★★ Zeitmaschine | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The start is in my opinion about 8- or 8 but very nice. Then the crux is over a few small sideholds, but if you figure out how to do it, its not that hard. So its an easy 9- in my opinion, more 8+. The Bolts are at the start very well. In the end sometimes a little bigger distances but there its realy easy.
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Sat 4th Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Großenoher Tal Großenoher Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Leere Hände | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Quite easy for 8+. I would also be fine with 8. There are two crux in the Route. The first is about the second Bolt. I could clip also the Quickdraw into the bolt from below with 1,75m, but I shouldn't be 1 cm shorter. But its also safe to clip it later. The second crux is around the 5th bolt. Both cruxes are easy with the right foottechnique.
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Fri 3rd Oct 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Tüchersfelder Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★ Abschneider | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
In the first try I didnt like the route. I was searching the hole time and thinking about is it offroute. But then I started to like the route with the next tries. The most hard part is short time before it goes into Marathon.The bolds are ok. Perhaps its a good idea to clip the first bolt with clipstick or use the first bolt from the following 4 routs. The third bolt (first together with Marathon) is far away, but the last 2 meters are easy.
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Sun 28th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Etzelwanger Wand | ||||||
8 | ★ What you need (direct) | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Nice start-boulder. After that you climb the 7, but its a nice 7.
You can clip the first quickdraw, but in my first try I cliped it in with a clipstick, and I was glad about that. 2nd clip is high, but you are standing without hands on an edge, so its good protected! |
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Fri 26th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Mittelbergwand Linker Teil | ||||||
8 | ★ Mendocino | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
Its difficult to clip the 3th quickdraw, and theres also the crux. Everything else is very easy. The crux is difficult to onsight. The bolds are quite good paced. In the end the distance is quite far but also very very easy.
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Thu 18th Sep 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Belvedere Sector B | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Cave Cannam | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice route. The crux is the endurance. Every move is easy for 7b+, but you don't have any good rest position. Perfectly bolted, so you can skip bolts to save energy.
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7a | ★ Urlo Del Vento | 14m | ★ Good | |||
The start of the route is nice but not very difficult. But take care to climb efficient to not be pumped at the crux. The crux is to climb out of the overhang. It is so perfect protected, that you can skip the bolt after the overhang (at the crux) without any risk.
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Wed 17th Sep 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector D | ||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★★ Titanic | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Probably the best route I ever climbed! The hole time it is overhang with small holds, but with some good rest positions. The only not perfect at this route is a too good rest position before the crux in the end. And it is perfectly bolted! You have to climb this route, if you go to Nago!
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Wed 17th Sep 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector F | ||||||
7a+ 7a | ★★ King Lear | 25m | ★ Good | |||
If you use the wrong holds, the start is slippery. Clear crux at the small overhang. At the top a balance part and tricky to onsight. But it is well bolted.
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Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Coste Dell'Anglone Parete Sud La Fattoria degli Struzzi | ||||||
7b | ★ por un punhado de dolares | 20m | ||||
First half is more difficult than the end. It is perfect bolted!
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7a | bacinum | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
Only one nice part in the overhang, but it gets crap with a drilled pocket! In the end you have to find an hidden pocket, but if you know where it is, it is not difficult. Be carefull with the clip after the overhang, but over all it is not difficult for this grade!
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Sat 13th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Anfiteatro | ||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★ Fix | 28m | Don't Bother | |||
Its very easy for 7a+. In my opinion 7a or more easy. The short Overhang is the only interesting part. All other is crap, but its good bolted.
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Thu 11th Sep 2014 - Rovereto | ||||||
Nomesino | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Bucomagia | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the best routes I ever climbed. Long overhang on good holds. The start is more difficult but the difficulty is to have the endurance. The route is perfect bolted!
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Wed 10th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massone Settore B | ||||||
7a | ★★ Via le Man dal Cul (Via Le Man) | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Far on the right side after the crux is a bold, which did not look like its one of the route, but it is. Otherwise it is a big distance to the next bold.
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7a | ★★ Cannonau | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb the sinters without the side wall up to the big underclings. Short after that is the crux. Be careful, the clip at the crux / short after the crux is difficult, but a fall is not dangerous. Otherwise it is well protected.
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Tue 9th Sep 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
La Gola Il Tornante | ||||||
7a | ★★ India | 24m | Average | |||
The start is not difficult, but there is one time a big distance between the bolds with the same difficulty. At the top are two cruxes with a little rest postition between them.
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Thu 4th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
8 8+ | ★★ Hessisch Roulette rechter Ausstieg (Rechter Ausstieg) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The bolds are very good placed. Very save to lead it. For 8 its difficult, in some books its graded as 8+. I'm fine with both 8 and 8+. The crux is in the end direkt after the overhang if you are pumped you have to pull on small fingerpockets. But its a very nice route!
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Thu 28th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Weidlwanger Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Ton in Ton | 18m | ★ Good | |||
One tricky but not very hard move, from begin to end an endurance problem. Hight first bolt for small people. panic quickdraw recommendable.
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Sun 24th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Andeltodrom | ||||||
8 | ★★ Kauabonga | 8m | Average | |||
Very overhanging! Also possible to climb if its raining, but then last clip is difficult, because last holds are wet. But you can clip it from below.
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Sat 23rd Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Computerspiele | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very good route! Homogene in the difficult but with a tricky crux.
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Sat 23rd Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Emporwand | ||||||
8 | Glasperlenspiel | 35m | Don't Bother | |||
Most part of the route is very easy. One technical part with small steps.
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Sun 17th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Schlosserei | ||||||
8 | ★★ I hired a contract driller | 10m, 4 | ||||
Sun 10th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
8 | ★★ Scheide | 15m | ||||
Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rolandfels | ||||||
8 | ★★ Hofnarr | 23m | ★ Good | |||
one crux in the middle part. But after that still a little pumpy
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Sat 2nd Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv | ||||||
8+ | ★ Aperitif | Average | ||||
Nice boulder. Only the top bold makes it to a sport-climbing route. Dont fall in the end, otherwise you fall on the ground, but the End is a easy 4. In my opinion the big right edge arount the first bold is offroute, otherwise its too easy for 8+.
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Fri 1st Aug 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
8 | ★ Zahn um Zahn | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Jul 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv | ||||||
8 | ★ Belegtes Brötchen | Average | ||||
Start on overhang, then easier (but not too easy) on sideholds, the end is not difficult.
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Sun 6th Jul 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | ||||||
8 | ★ Geflecktes Zebra | 20m | ||||
Sat 14th Jun 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Langer Berg Wand Main | ||||||
8 | ★ Only you complete me | 8m, 2 | ||||
Sat 31st May 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
8 8+ | ★ Big Brother | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Very hard crux in the middle Part. The start is quite easy, and the end a little pumpy. But over all a nice route. The bolds are paced nice. Some bigger distance, but there it is easy climbing.
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Sun 4th May 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Soranger Wand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Schweine im Weltall | 10m |
Showing all 34 ascents.