Showing all 10 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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9- | ★★★ Beavis & Butthead - with flo, g | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Aug 2022 | |||
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9- | ★★★ Dumbo - with Flo, j | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th May 2023 | |||
Great, aesthetic and fun line. I was psyched to give it another go all week. Unfortunately, I started the day feeling trashed and sleep deprived and thus kept falling on the move to the first mono, mosty due to bad coordination. I don't know how often I climbed the initial boulder, but I was definitely feeling it when I hopped on one last time to clean the draws. But - on that go I hit the mono, and everything else just went. Bam!
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9- | ★★ Advenzgronzkäznozündä - with flo, g | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Aug 2022 | |||
The route starts fluffy, with juggy climbing and a good sitting rest in the upper hollow.
Continuing up the flake is a pleasant stroll (assuming you find the good holds). However, once you reach the end, a brutal, angry 3 move moonboard boulder awaits. If you survived, a nice undercling traverse and a ca grade 5 dihedral get you to the anchor. To my surprise, I sent #2ndgo while trashed from b&b. Much easier than b&b imo, but that might be because the short crux suits my style and the rest is not sustained. |
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9- | ★★ Stalingrad - with Nobbi Fahr | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||
Yeah! Cool and aesthetic tour.
Start boulder with a sweet knee bar, followed by a no-hand rest. Top section is mostly steep juggy goodness, with a pronounced crux on pockets for which I needed to work out a sequence, followed by a long move to the right-hand edge. 2nd day, 4th go overall, bam😊 |
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9- 9-/9 | ★★ Unter falscher Flagge - with g, m, f | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
Much harder than "Rechter Winkel".
Hard Boulder to second bolt, the hand bump to the left crimp is my personal crux. All moves go, linking feels doable 😊 |
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9- | ★★ Zeitmaschine | 15m, 6 | Muldetal bei Grimma | Tue 23rd Jun 2020 | ||||
AF, linking needs work
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7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon | 30m, 11 | Geyikbayırı | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | ||||
Spectacular line and Sweet moves, I definitely need to come back
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9- | ★★ Motivation ist alles | 12m, 5 | Rochlitzer Berg | Wed 15th Feb 2023 | ||||
Checked out bottom, seems fun
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9- | Merlin - with Katta, MartinM | 3 | Südharz | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | ||||
Cool pocket boulder, but I'm still missing 2moves around the first bolt. I could link from there to the ⚓.
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9- | ★ Chimpanzee | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 29th May 2023 | ||||
All moves, but very much not my style..
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Showing all 10 ascents.
The route starts off with a bouldery, core strength crux at bolts 2 to 3. As usual, good foot placement is the key. Afterwards, things do get easier while still demanding endurance. A long move to a sloper at the 4th bolt is the usual post-crux kicker and two sloper edges above the last bolt are the final serious hurdle.
I almost sent this 2 years ago, falling at the move from the final sloper edge. Ever since, i always wanted to get the proper send, but a combination of bad conditions and a serious long-term injury kept me from going for it.
So sending while tired and angsty from 1.5 rainy days of terrible conditions and fruitless attempts was... awesome 😎