Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Horse Cave | ||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Did first moves and crux to warm up.
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 4 attempts | |||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Horse Cave | ||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Just one attempt today. Was good!
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Horse Cave | ||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Third send attempt.
Last go of the day. Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Second send attempt.
Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough. Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor. |
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | ||||||
V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | |||||
Repeat with new heel hook beta. Feels less marginal.
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | |||||
Repeat with old beta.
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | |||||
Warming up, remembering subtle beta.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Horse Cave | ||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.
Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good. Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
First send attempt.
Went very well up to the sidepull. I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy. Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel. |
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Horse Cave | ||||||
V6 | Trigger | 6m | ||||
???????
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Horse Cave | ||||||
V3 | Short Saddle — 7 attempts | |||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | ||||
Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | |||||
Tried working this after sending Loadies, but fingers didn't even want to pull on.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Slick 50 And Whale Area The Whale Boulder | ||||||
V0 | Moby Dick | 2m | Average | |||
V1 | Whale Traverse | 6m | ||||
This was supposed to be a warm-up, but was too cold - it was in the shade.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V2 | Old Time Traverse | Average | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 4 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.
The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top. |
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 8 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My best session yet.
On my best attempt, I went from the start to the dyno but somehow slipped from the huge jug. My other attempts were not great. I kept falling off the second move, which usually feels easy for me. |
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Ship's Prow | ||||||
V4 | Low Ship's Prow Traverse — 3 attempts | |||||
Working first couple moves to warm up for Loadies Zen.
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V1 | ★ Steerage | |||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Ship's Prow | ||||||
V1 | Undercling Roof | 2m | ||||
V0 | ★★ Right Gangway | |||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
The Lichen Boulder | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Lichen Crack | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | Chocolate Chip Lichen | 3m | ||||
Somewhat different from beta described on mountain project: right hand to crimp, then bump right all the way to the top.
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V1 | ★★ Lichen Crack | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Great Slab | ||||||
V3 | ★★ The Wave | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
finally tried this classic.
very fun! did the ramp-less V3 variation. |
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Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Parking Lot Boulders Parking Lot Boulder C | ||||||
V0- ~VB+ | Parking Lot Crack | 3m | ||||
VB | Parking Lot Slabs | 3m | ||||
Wed 20th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Ship's Prow | ||||||
V3 | Bottle of Rum — 2 attempts | |||||
V1 | ★ Ship's Prow Slab | |||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worked the top and made good progress. Did the top dyno and top out for the first time. The dyno felt easy when it finally worked.
Felt ready for send goes. |
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V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Now that I have done all the moves in two sections, I made an actual "attempt" at sending. I didn't do the dyno - I felt that I didn't have finger power, but that might have been psychological.
Lost too much skin to give more good burns. |
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Ship's Prow | ||||||
VB | Left Gangway | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ Ship's Prow Traverse | |||||
V1 | ★ Overboard | |||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Roof | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Chocolate Roof Left — 5 attempts | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I couldn't quite mantel onto the slab above. As usual, my first attempt was my best.
Very nice problem. Come back for this one. |
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Boulder 3 | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Torpedo | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V2 | ★ Attractive Brunette | |||||
hmm...
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Boulder 2 | ||||||
VB | Sinfully Delicious | |||||
downclimb
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VB | Sinfully Delicious | |||||
downclimb
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V3 | ★ Bodacious | |||||
Half-hearted attempt
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V1 | ★ Bodacious Rail — 5 attempts | |||||
Unclear exactly where it starts... I may have made it more difficult by starting further right, almost on the face.
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V0- | ★ Tush | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Chip | ||||||
5.4 | Rotten Teeth | 4m | ||||
5.7 | Mini-Arete | 3m | ||||
5.9 | Mini-Slab | 3m | ||||
Tricky start.
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V1 | Sweet Tooth Yabo | |||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Chocolate Boulder 1 | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Swinging Richard — 5 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is a very good problem. Come back to it. I was able to go to the left arete, but no further.
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V0+ | ★★ Smoothy — 8 attempts | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky, until it worked. Pulling off the ground is the crux.
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VB | Lumpy | 5m | ||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Joshua Tree National Park | ||||||
Quail Springs Chocolate Boulders Choc-o-Roach | ||||||
VB | ★ The Choc-o-Roach | 4m | ||||
VB | ★ Problem A | 3m | ||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Ship's Prow | ||||||
V1 | Even Keel | |||||
V2 | Tentacle | |||||
V0+ | ★ Reverse Jam | |||||
V1 | ★ Steerage | |||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Green Drool | ||||||
V0 | Gd Right Arête | |||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Working again.
Got beta which seems to work for the big move. I need to practice it and go further right on the ledge. |
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Tue 21st Nov 2023 - Lynn Woods | ||||||
Weetamoo Elephant Boulder Balanced Boulder | ||||||
V3 | Slam Dunk | 2m | ||||
???
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The bottom didn't feel quite as good as last time, but still went. Got close on the dyno after moving to higher feet.
Ended session with a bleeder. |
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Egg Swamp | ||||||
V7 | Swamp Thing | |||||
Trying out some of the moves as a potential future project. Most moves feel too hard for me today, but would be fun otherwise.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | ||||||
V4 | ★★ The Pedestal | |||||
V1 | Hard Grunt | Average | ||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This felt like really good progress. The only move I didn't do was the dyno to the jug.
Feels like it could go this season if the weather holds out.. |
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V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 2 attempts | |||||
Decided to have only 2 attempts today. More is likely to just burn skin.
On both attempts I touched the crucial hold but didn't latch it. |
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | ||||||
V4 | ★★ The Pedestal | |||||
Reasonable amount of progress. Need to work out how to get feet off the block.
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V6 | Hats Off | |||||
Tried to pull on... Very sloper. Looks hard
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks — 4 attempts | |||||
Finally sent this one after working it a bit more.
Beta:
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VB | Easy Jams | |||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Try Again | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 2 attempts | 6m | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | |||||
Can make the big dead point reliably. Couldn't actually latch the hole. Seems like good progress.
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Tomato Boulders Upper Tomato | ||||||
V0 | Split Tomato | |||||
V1 | Cherry Tomatoes | |||||
V0 | Boiled Tomatoes | |||||
V0 | Stewed Tomatoes | |||||
V0 | Saucy | |||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | ||||||
Heart Boulders Lower Heart Boulder | ||||||
V3 ~V4 | ★★★ Static Heart — 5 attempts | |||||
Very much a skin-of-the-teeth send. But a send.
The thin flake next to broken foothold works to layback. Was V3 before two key holds broke. Seems harder than that now. |
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V4 | Center Loadie | |||||
??????‽
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V1 | ★ Right Loadie | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Wiswall Boulders | ||||||
V0 | Warm | 3m | ||||
Hmmm
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V0 - 1 | Warmer | 3m | Don't Bother | |||
V1 | ★ Fireball | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V0 | Slope Dope | 3m | Average | |||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Happy Valley And The Hideaway | ||||||
The Hideaway Left Cliff Band | ||||||
V4 | Chalking the Ham | |||||
Two quick burns as the sun set. Should go with minimal fuss when not tired.
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Happy Valley And The Hideaway | ||||||
The Hideaway Millenium Boulder | ||||||
V7 | All The Way | |||||
Close on the opening dyno
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Happy Valley And The Hideaway | ||||||
The Happy Valley Sleeping Giant Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sleeping Giant | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a line. This is one the come back to.
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Happy Valley And The Hideaway | ||||||
The Hideaway Warm Up Area | ||||||
V1/2 | The Praying Mantle | 4m | Average | |||
V2 | ★★ Warm-up Arête | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V1 | Unknown Slab | |||||
V2 | Bulldozer Slab | 3m | ||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Hammond Pond | ||||||
Temple Area Pusherman Wall | ||||||
5.12 V3/4 | Goofball | |||||
Just worked the first couple moves.
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V4 | Corgi Magic | 5m | ||||
Bruised the rest of my fingertips.
Touched the jug plenty, but too much outward momentum. |
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Hammond Pond | ||||||
Temple Area Pusherman Wall | ||||||
5.12 V3/4 | Goofball | |||||
V0 | Coke | |||||
5.2 V0 | ★ The Bone | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Down climb
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5.2 V0 | ★ The Bone | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Down climb
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Foot slipped but recovered.