Ascents by Gabriele G

From ground to lip crimps but could not clip. Change of beta there seems useful. Note: hard to see when the sun just comes over the hold. About flake: I don’t know if it’s moving (I did not no tone it but maybe I don’t pull hard enough 😂) but sure would be sad if it broke.

Very good for the first 4 or 5 bolts. Last few bolts tricky to onsight with no chalk.

Could do the individual sequences but it’s hard. Did not feel I could use the slot but maybe I should try.

Would have been a nice light day but my knee did not like those heels

End of day cleaning services.

Bolt by bolt, sequence by sequence. flapper by flapper.

In the shade, all the cats are gray, and all the holds are large.

Trying to ease my knee back into climbing; ended up doing pumping laps in the sun

Fell on last droppable move like the idiot I am. Then on next attempt something made a popping sound in my knee. Better to set this aside for a while.

As usual, the endurance side-project becomes the project Got to the tea-cup but somehow did not manage to grab it right. Then 3 more endurance goes to roughly the same point.

Note to self: better if you sleep.

2 goes. 1. Link to end of traverse. Sit. Then from there to anchors. 2. Bolt to bolt to main rest. Then from there to anchors.

Annoyingly wasted the flash attempt going the wrong way and losing it. Went second go despite hitting my balls on the ledge exiting the crux

Decent flash till just below whar Sasha said was crux 1. Would be hard to control the pump from there to the top. Some really nice sequences.

No particularly hard move. Perhaps the traverse at the roof is the most tiring bit.

Oh I know how to mess it up after the crux 😂. Had a try with the kneebar beta but was scared clipping from it, so I went to the jugs above anyway. Then proceeded to clip and unclip and reclip the roof bolt before doing a pull up exercise transforming the easy slab at the top into a little odyssey. Yay!

Carefully studied and prepared detailed beta for the flash attempt. Fucked it up and dynoed. It worked. Just.

Blew the onsight/flash looking for a “better” hold above the anchor. Good sequence down low.

Warm up repeat.

Thought it was a hold, but it was a tiny hidden slot. Nice little boulder otherwise. Would be more easily enjoyable a couple of meters farther from the ground.

Repeat.

Nice crux sequence once you read it. Then pump...

Repeat.

Would be a really great 17 but for one move.

Made it harder than it is, I guess.

Good.

Repeat.

W/ boulder start; probably same grade. As onsight as possible, I guess?

Repeat (+2 doggy laps getting lost on the slab)

Cruxy. Reachy. (x2)

2x

2x warm up repeats

Clearing another old dog. Very good and engageing from bottom to top, actually.

Cleaning old dogs? Or Alzheimer onsighting? Most holds are good.

Warm up repeat x1….7? 😂

Repeat x2

Linked to 3rd clip, then powered out before the main rest.

warmup repeat x2

Seems clearly 3 stars to me. Really good flow. (+2x repeats)

Perhaps a bti reachy at the (direct) start. Then a bit of traversing on poor feet (+repeat).

Bittersweet. But it's done. Change of crux beta two sesssions ago was surely the most important bit. Then also small change of footwork at the last hard sequence.

Annoyed it didn’t go second go. Not because it’s easy, but because I thought I sucked less. Intense bouldery little route—hope to come back.

Crux was a little bit too baffling for the onsight.

Like most routes around: a little cruxy bit to easy stuff.

Dear Diary, today I fell after the crux.