Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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7a+ 7b | ★ Follaje campestre | 25m | Chulilla | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Feb 2018 | |||
Hard direct start on small crimps without stepping stone is the crux. Followed by difficult slabclimbing on crimps. 6c-ish ending on immaculate rock. Slightly chipped to make the holds on the slab bearable.
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Animula vagula blandula | 34m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Mar 2017 | |||
Beautiful wall in bottom part with way easier finish. Very good route!
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Peris Hilton (L1+L2) (Peris Gilton) | 55m | Chulilla | Sat 24th Mar 2018 | ||||
Bouldery start and easy finish. Not memorable.
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8+ | ★★ Tetris | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 3rd Oct 2018 | ||||
Easy roof when climbed with the right foot cammed in the roof/wall corner.
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5.12a | ★★★ Namaste | 46m | Zion National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 15th Jul 1999 | |||
BEAUTY! Doesn't get any better (well maybe on its lefthand cousin). If I were to climb just this single pitch on a trip to the States I'd be satisfied.
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7a+ | ★★ Pasta Sin Agua | 30m, 10 | Terradets | Mon 23rd Mar 2015 | ||||
Polished caked up piece of rock. Prob nice decades ago...
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7a+ | ★★★ Amele | 18m, 8 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Mar 2007 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Turkiye'ye (Türkiye'ye) | 20m | Geyikbayırı | Sun 11th Mar 2007 | ||||
6c+? #soft
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7a+ | ★★ Nemo | 22m, 8 | Geyikbayırı | Tue 6th Mar 2007 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ la rancon du succès (La rançon du succès) | Claret | Thu 22nd Nov 2018 | |||||
Big moves on big holds. Fun.
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7a+ | ★★ Marguerite | 27m, 10 | Berdorf | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Apr 2007 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Remulo Y Romo | 18m | Siurana | Wed 3rd Apr 2013 | ||||
Fun route with hard start.
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7a+ | ★★★ Petit Pro Eixerit | 20m | Siurana | Mon 8th Feb 2016 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Valga'm Deu Quin Patir! (Valga'm déu quin patir!) | 18m | Siurana | Mon 14th May 2001 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Los Baqueanos | La Restonica | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||||
6c? #soft
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7a+ | ★★ Todo Tiene Su Fin | La Mussara | Sat 2nd Jan 1999 | |||||
6b+? #soft
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7a+ | ★★★ Occidente | 25m | Ponte Brolla | Fri 7th Jul 2006 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Si vas níquel fas tard | 22m | Siurana | ★ Good | Wed 29th Feb 2012 | |||
Hard and rather ugly bouldery crux.
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7a+ | ★★★ Crosta Pànic P1 (Crosta panic) | 25m, 10 | Siurana | Wed 10th Feb 2016 | ||||
The crux is ⅔rds up the slab/wall. 6b+/c?
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7a+ | ★★ Go Up | Buis-les-Baronnies | Wed 31st Dec 2008 | |||||
One hard move at the start, followed by 6a+/b climbing. NEVER 7b as the JingoWobbly guidebook suggests. #soft
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7a+ | ★★ Alban Fils de Crapaud (Alband Fils de Crapaud) | 10 | Buis-les-Baronnies | Fri 2nd Jan 2009 | ||||
Pas de bloc. #soft
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7a+ | ★★★ Jah Jah City (Jaja City) | 40m, 16 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Nov 2008 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Hayat Çok Uzun | 32m, 14 | Geyikbayırı | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Nov 2008 | |||
Beauty!
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7a+ | ★★ Toros | 20m, 9 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Nov 2008 | |||
7a+ | ★ En attendant Mozart | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jan 2009 | ||||
Was soooo pumped on 6-th day of climbing in a row... Had to fight hard for the on-sight, despite the route not being that hard.
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7a+ | ★★ Un monde a refaire | 35m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★ Good | Fri 6th Nov 2009 | |||
Good route
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7a+ | ★★ A la Babalá (A la babalà) | 24m | Gandia | Sat 6th Jan 2007 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Vromika Myala | 25m | Leonidio | ★ Good | Tue 8th Jan 2019 | |||
Tricky moves on lower part to a hands off rest in crumbling and wet flowstone ‘wounded’ rock on the left. More tricky moves lead up and (unfortunately) left again to a slightly disappointing finish.
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7a+ | ★★ t'as pas un nom? | 20m | Gorges du Tarn | Tue 12th Apr 2005 | ||||
Soft: 6c?
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7a+ | ★★★ Oyk | 37m, 18 | Leonidio | Fri 24th Nov 2017 | ||||
Lovely red & sharp crimpy rock. Big pitch with fun end. Good route!
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7a+ | La pêche à la ligne (La pêche a la ligne) | Vosges du Midi | Sat 12th May 2018 | |||||
Pebble-pulling!
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7a+ | La fin de l'histoire | Vosges du Midi | Fri 11th May 2018 | |||||
One hard move. 7a/7a+
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7a+ | Ascendance | Vosges du Midi | Sat 2nd Dec 2006 | |||||
7a+ | ★ Los malos también lloran | Turon | Wed 25th Dec 2002 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Tungt møblement (Tungt møblert) | Flatanger | Tue 14th Aug 2018 | |||||
Big moves on good holds.
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7a+ | ★★ André am Bolzen (Andre am Bolzen) | 28m | Simplon Dorf | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jul 2015 | |||
Demands more thinking and less straightforward moving than other routes at the crag. Worthwhile excursion!
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7a+ | ★★★ Suicide Cobain | 28m | Simplon Dorf | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jul 2015 | |||
Pretty easy and straightforward pulling on edges all the way from bottom till the top.
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7a+ | ★★★ Sendero sinuoso | 35m, 14 | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2017 | |||
Close to perfection!
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7a+ | ★★★ Arriba | Rochers du Castel | ★ Good | Mon 6th Aug 2012 | ||||
Nice roof.
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8+ 7a+ | ★★★ Nepobedim | 28m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | Tue 5th Jun 2018 | ||||
Nice. Very hot and humid today. Slippery!
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7+ 7a+ | ★★ Ambatt (Ambat) | 18m | Bohuslän | Fri 28th Jul 2017 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Brigand d'amour | Seynes | ★ Good | Fri 4th Jan 2013 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ La Morena del Muntsant (La morena del Montsant) | 40m | Siurana | Wed 10th Feb 2016 | ||||
Fun long climb. Easier then its left hand compagnon. 6b something?!?
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7a+ | ★★★ Boubouki Ext (Boubouki) | 38m, 18 | Leonidio | Sun 6th Jan 2019 | ||||
Not easy at the crux. Powerful climbing on polished holds and footholds. Nice exposure and length. Good route. Thank god for cold and crisp conditions today. #hard
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7a+ | ★★★ Serengueti | 30m | Chulilla | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Mar 2018 | |||
Great route. Must do!
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7a+ | ★ Vaskina Highway | 35m, 20 | Leonidio | Wed 29th Nov 2017 | ||||
Long outing up the golden wall/dihedral in the setting sun.
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7a+ | ★★ Sympatiki | 30m, 13 | Leonidio | Fri 24th Nov 2017 | ||||
Sharp crimps to easier climbing to a crux on pockets. Good, but not as good as both routes to the right.
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7a+ | ★★ Ntinta | 22m, 14 | Leonidio | Tue 1st Jan 2019 | ||||
Very nice route. Crux is going over the bulge with small holds and footholds. Glory jugs/colonette to finish. Fun!
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7a+ | Cavernicole | Claret | Thu 13th Mar 2003 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Tokyo eyes | Seynes | ★ Good | Tue 1st Jan 2013 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Ahtapot | 23m, 11 | Geyikbayırı | Fri 30th Mar 2007 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Bindelef | 35m, 11 | Siurana | Fri 29th Mar 2013 | ||||
7a+ | Jeunes et Vrilles (Jeunes et vrillés) | 120m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mon 1st May 2017 | ||||
All pitches onsight. Third length with difficult part around the roof.
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7a+ | ★ Ouais c'est ça | Seynes | Thu 28th Dec 2017 | |||||
Could have climbed the crux a lot easier with a big span. Good to see it goes with the pocket as well.
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7a+ | ★★★ La patience minérale (La patience minerale) | Seynes | Thu 4th Jan 2018 | |||||
7a+ | La croix et la bannière (La Croix et la Bannière) | Seynes | Mon 19th Nov 2018 | |||||
Hard piaz moves on sharp rock. Felt like 7b on the onsight.
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7a+ | ★★★ Chanson d'automne | Les Ayes | Wed 2nd Aug 2006 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Kriek et Châtiments (Kriek et Chatiments) | Porche de Roiseux | Fri 4th Jul 2008 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Venga | Le Simoust | Mon 29th Jul 2019 | |||||
Never difficult, but keeps going on.
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7a+ | Boudolos | 12m | Höhlensteintal | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
Nice bouldery mov es through overhang. Second crux is more ballancy. Good route on mediocre rock.
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7a+ | Amarcord | La Restonica | Wed 26th Jul 2006 | |||||
8+ | ★★ Wounded Knee | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 31st Jul 2014 | |||
7b for the onsight for sure. Hard and fingery start to a kneebar rest. Followed by big moves to spike/jug, and a bouldery move to the big hole. Good holds lead to a last tricky move after which you catch the big hold at the top of the wall. Misread the sequence after the spike and did it the (very) hard way.
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8+ | ★★ Teststrecke | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 20th May 2007 | ||||
8+ | ★ Schmalzkönigs Albtraum (Schmalzkönigs Alptraum) | Ettringen | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jul 2009 | ||||
Single crux move, but it requires nifty footwork. Liked it!
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8- | ★★★ Grønn var min barndoms salat | 20m, 7 | Hordaland | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Jul 2008 | |||
7a+ 7a | ★★ Magic line | 30m | Chulilla | Sat 24th Mar 2018 | ||||
Tricky first part. Polished. Second chimney part does not add difficulty.
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7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni | 25m, 15 | Leonidio | Wed 22nd Nov 2017 | ||||
7a+ 7a | ★★★ Psili Makilopardali | 32m, 18 | Leonidio | Tue 21st Nov 2017 | ||||
7a+ 6c+ | ★★★ Ace of Spades (Ace of Spades Ext) | 30m | Leonidio | Tue 21st Nov 2017 | ||||
Fun climb on 'broccoli' structures. More like 6c+ than 7a.
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7a+ 7c+ | el vianant | 35m | Montserrat | Sun 1st Apr 2012 | ||||
L1. Glad en tricky.
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7a+ | Reunion Tupperware | Salavas | Thu 3rd May 2001 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Jamais deux sans trois | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Sat 3rd Jan 2009 | |||||
Wet tufa made the top-part very tricky... Had to hold on to brocolli-holds and fight real hard to stay on. Hard start and scary third clip (I cheated...)!
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7a+ | ★★★ Voleur De Spits | 19m, 11 | Berdorf | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | ||||
Rep. Alzmeimer flash.
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7a+ | ★★ Espen Askeladd søker lykken | Flatanger | Tue 14th Aug 2018 | |||||
Cool climbing along the arête with distinct crux going round the roof. Flash/onsight. Knew where the crux was.
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7a+ | ★★★ Escargots Trempés | 65m | Rochers de Freyr | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||
Superb
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7a+ | Héroine (Heroïne) | Rochers de Freyr | Wed 16th Mar 2011 | |||||
Retro-flash
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8+ | ★ Rauchende Strapse | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 22nd May 2007 | ||||
7a+ 7b A0 | ★★★ Carnavalada | 300m | Riglos | ★ Good | Fri 1st Apr 2016 | |||
Impressive P.4 and P.5, but not as good as Tucán.
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8+ 9- | ★★ Mut der Verzweiflung | Ettringen | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2009 | ||||
Easier than it looks. No hard moves, nice climbing - go for the on-sight, its not that hard. Must do route in Ettringen. 8+/9-.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★ Golden Shower Queen | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th May 2019 | ||||
Grotty and unremarkable route but at least it is in the shade. Would be a no brainer to NOT climb if this route were on any other cliff than one in the Frankenjura. Reminder to always stick to the premeditated plan. Damn, so second go it was. #2go
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7a+ | ★★ Sesso, drogas y flamenco (Sexo, drogas y flamenco) | 27m, 10 | El Chorro | Sat 28th Dec 2002 | ||||
7a+ | ★ bouton | 10m | Gorges du Tarn | Mon 11th Apr 2005 | ||||
7a+ | Heros Positif | Céüse | Sat 26th Jul 1997 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Vampirella | 15m | Central Area | Mon 30th Sep 2002 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris | 27m | Arboli | Fri 18th May 2001 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Delicatessen | Siurana | Mon 20th Feb 2006 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Cocaine Fingers | 25m | Rochers de Freyr | Sat 12th Mar 2011 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Games Boys | 15m | Rochers de Freyr | Thu 6th Jun 2002 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Don Diego | 18m | Gandia | Tue 26th Dec 2006 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Hazewee à Laeken | 35m, 17 | Rochers de Freyr | Sat 6th May 2006 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Purification technique | Vosges du Midi | Sat 18th Nov 2006 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Le vice dans la vallée (le vice dans la vallee) | Vosges du Midi | Sun 23rd May 2004 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Rocky Horror Friction Show | 20m, 7 | Berdorf | Sat 22nd Sep 2012 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Kaffisdous | 26m, 11 | Berdorf | ★ Good | Sun 20th Mar 2011 | |||
Finally cold enough to hold the hole.
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7a+ | ★★★ Arrête, Paulette! | 26m, 11 | Berdorf | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Aug 2009 | |||
Feels as hard as it did 12 years ago. Still can't lock off after all those years. Damn! #2go
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7a+ | ★★ La ira de Bárbol | 29m | Chulilla | Sun 12th Mar 2017 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Le cri du papillon | 15m | Mont-Dauphin | Wed 19th Jul 2006 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Mythos | 20m, 9 | Leonidio | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
Fingery and continuous climbing on sidepulls in the upper part. No stamina today and a shitty performance on my favorite type of climbing.
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7a+ | ★★ Goroherpasyphlaids | Rochers du Paradou | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Feb 2007 | ||||
Upper part on sight (after putting in the draws from neighbouring route and cleaning the holds). Had done first part a year earlier - so knew how to do the crux move. Upper part felt desperate anyway (burnings calfs). Not easy at all - but one off the best slabs in Belgium. #hard
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7a+ | ★★ Le sophisme à la base | Seynes | Sun 18th Nov 2018 | |||||
Hard. Terrible day. 5 tries for this one.
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