Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte — 3 attempts - with Grace Mackie | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky start to easier climbing and better gear above.
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia - with Grace Mackie | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't want to try the jump, but thankfully could place several pieces of gear from the ground before pulling on to the harder start. Tricky sustained climbing with a good rest at halfway.
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte - with Grace Mackie | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Blue-Eyed and Blond — 2 attempts - with Grace Mackie | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two shots on top rope, second time clean. Very easy to set up an anchor and rappel in from above. The start was quite tough and looked like it would be challenging to protect well.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes — 2 attempts - with Grace Mackie | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Flailed around on the crux moves on my first go, trying to work it all out again. Went second go. Total 6 shots across two trips.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row - with Grace Mackie | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good climbing and gear the whole way. The old rape and tat anchor at the top leaves a little to be desired.
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Grace Mackie, Lucy | 130m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lucy's second day climbing outdoors and first multi-pitch.
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First route of the trip getting back on this, and the scene of probably my scariest fall, ripping my top two pieces of gear and ending up below Grace... Turns out I didn't quite remember my gear beta from last time.
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24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
After a decent sit-down at the base of the route to regather my nerves, I went back up to have a look for better gear, and with an extra few micro-cams than last time was able to lace it up a bit more to my liking.
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24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got back just before the wall came into the sun and it felt much better this time. Nice to be able to put this one to bed.
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Tue 7th Jun 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not sure why I rated this so poorly last time I was here. Interesting movements to a full on jamming finish. Definitely wore the wrong shoes and my toes were complaining...
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Tue 7th Jun 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Trying to figure out the moves on TR. Not too hard until the upper half of the route.
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24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A lap trying to figure out potential gear. Managed to protect it adequately without any RPs and only 2 micro cams (although a bunch more micro cams would have been gladly welcomed).
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24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Grace Mackie | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean TR lap.
Got to see Grace Mackie get the tick afterwards! but between tired fingers and a healthy amount of fear I didn't end up tying into the sharp end. |
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16 |
★ Liquid Laughter Layback (Liquid Laughter Layback P1)
- with
Grace Mackie
1
16
38m
| 38m | ★ Good | |||
Just P1 to access Impulse anchors
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity - with Grace Mackie | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First route of the trip and a good guage of where I'm at with my crack climbing. Which was alright but much weaker than previous trips. Great route and bomber gear.
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19 | ★★★ Thor - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was surprised to find I'd been on it before as I couldn't remember a single thing about it. More face climbing than crack climbing, with good gear. Some slightly tricky moves at halfway.
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21 | ★★ Odin II - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last time I saw this route the magic block was still in place, definitely looks harder now.
Relatively straightforward climbing up to the roof at halfway. A combination of arm-bars, knee-scums and grunting got me through the off-width roof crux, only to be super flamed for the top hand crack. |
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Wed 13th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Interesting climbing with sometimes spaced but otherwise good gear. A difficult route to attempt to onsight, but happy that I have it a go. Hardest i've tried on onsight in a long while.
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Tue 12th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes - with Grace Mackie | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
up to the crux to figure out new beta. was able to stick the crux move.
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25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes - with Grace Mackie | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
came off at the crux aftrer missing the mono pocket
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25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes - with Grace Mackie | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
was able to get further through the crux but still just couldn't stick it. fingers too sore to keep going with the mono pocket.
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Tue 12th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great route that climbs rather differently than how you would expect looking at it from the ground. Good gear and big jugs if you look for them.
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Mon 11th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 |
★★ Dunes Direct
- with
Grace Mackie
| 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was meant to be a quick outing for a rest day morning. Ended up taking several hours and mostly sitting in the cold shivering. Some good climbing, but definitely should not have linked the last two pitches as the rope drag was horrendous.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes - with Grace Mackie | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Top rope lap. Surprised myself with being able to do almost all the moves despite my sore fingers. Hand to pull through the crux, just could not figure out a way through. Awesome route.
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19 | ★ Excuse Me While I Belch - with Grace Mackie | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed to set up a tip rope for grace on debutantes. Kinda committing getting established on the right wall. Good gear.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to hang around under the roof for a little while to figure out the moves. Ended up climbing through much of it on face holds rather than using the often tenuous jams.
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22 | ★★ Glory Rodent - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much better when you know the beta and where to chuck in your gear.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
18 | ★★ Virginia - with Grace Mackie | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A massively underrated route I reckon. Looks kinda terrible from the ground but it climbs really well, with the exception of a short thrutchy section in the middle. Can get away without any big gear.
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great movement on nice holds. The gear gets a bit spaced up high, but seems pretty solid.
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★ Beside Myself (Beside Myself P1)
- with
Grace Mackie
1
23
30m
| 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy on gear up to the bolts and then really technical. Went the wrong way at the top and got some large air.
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23 |
★★ Beside Myself P1
- with
Grace Mackie
1
| 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt more comfortable knowing the beta
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21 | ★★ Skydiver - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun movement on mostly good gear, a little run out through the middle
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Daily Planet - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves on rock not very typical of Arapiles.
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Fri 8th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Grace Mackie | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Couldn't quite relax enough to enjoy this one. Good gear.
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First route of the trip. Feeling a bit shaky after 2 weeks not climbing.
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula - with Grace Mackie | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lead as a single pitch, and geez what a line! Consistent crack climbing up to the roof, a couple of stonker placements and then some bloody bold moves.
I forgot how painful constantly jamming with one foot is! Took up triples of #1,2,3 camelots but really wished I had three more #3's |
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 16th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Grace Mackie | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lead as a single pitch, and safe to say this is a mega classic! Well protected the whole way except for the final few metres, but there is bomber gear beforehand.
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Thu 16th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
tricky moves to start (although much easier when taller) leading to enjoyable juggy climbing above.
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Wed 15th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Oceanoid
- with
Grace Mackie
| 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
great first pitch, but the traverse and then grovelly chimney of the second pitch took away from the enjoyment of the route. Also don't really know how it took us 4 hours....
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Wed 15th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
22 |
★★ The Second Coming (The Second Coming P1)
- with
rickau
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
After Rick's solid lead attempt, I went up on pre-placed gear to the crux. Took a few good falls from the crux mantle before finding the crucial hold. Still felt stressed through the climbing from the ledge even though I had seconded through it before.
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Tue 14th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz - with rickau, Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
back on it for another attempt after several years. came unstuck with a foot slip at the start of the undercling section, but don't think I would have had enough juice left in me to finish. Will have to come back for it again
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Tue 14th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
enjoyable face climbing.
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Tue 14th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari - with Grace Mackie | 35m | ||||
Great climbing through interesting terrain. Jamming is a required skill for the initial crack, with fun moves through the overhangs higher up.
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20 | ★★ Electric Warrior - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
got shutdown and scared by the low crux and ended up hanging on my gear. turns out I was trying to jam underneath the crucial crux hold... Pulled back on and got the rest of the route clean, the thin crack up high was tough.
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Mon 13th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Judgement Day - with Grace Mackie | 67m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Haven't had much experience with traversing so this felt pretty gripping. We got a bit lost on the second pitch and ended up following second coming up to its achor after the mantleshelf instead of traverse further right. Rapped small distance back to start of P3 and then finished as planned.
Some comitting moves but well protected throughout. |
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Muldoon
- with
Grace Mackie
| 42m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
some pretty outrageous moves for the grade, particularly at the end of P1. Felt the first pitch left a bit to be desired in terms of protection prior to the hard moved. Second pitch very enjoyable juggy climbing.
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
pretty spicy for the grade. Mostly decent gear, but often quite spaced out. Even after having rapped down it beforehand while descending from Thunder Crack and checking out some of the gear, it still felt pretty stiff.
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
the bottom crux took me a bit of time to commit to, and after that was a well protected mi of jamming and stemming. Classic route!
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
retro-onsight. several technical cruxes separated by good resting stances. what a classy route! some jamming skills required.
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Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Voodoo - with Grace Mackie | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula - with Grace Mackie | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
enjoyable climbing, but the greasiness (or maybe just my sweatiness) of the crack took away a bit from my enjoyment of it.
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Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink - with Grace Mackie | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
amazing exposure for the grade. The traverse on P2 was epic, a lot easier to start with than expected, with come comitting moves to finish it. Found several nuts stuck by the last party through, freed by the contracting rock overnight.
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Fri 10th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor - with Grace Mackie | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
good fun. enjoyable moves through the roof up high. done as single pitch.
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Fri 10th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 |
★★ Dirge (Dirge P1)
- with
Grace Mackie
1
17
35m
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
great climbing through the flake systems, trying to get used to arapiles rock and pro again. Pitch one only.
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Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★ Gherkin - with Grace Mackie | 32m | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★★ Mindbender - with Grace Mackie | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
could definitely feel that I hadn't been on trad for a while. Pretty good pro, but still got totally freaked out.
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16 | ★★ Reprieve - with Grace Mackie | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 28th Feb 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Mixed Business - with Grace Mackie | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 10th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Grace Mackie | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
checking out the gear on rappel and seeing if they would be feasible to place. pretty happy with how I protected it. Had to figure out a few moves again.
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25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Grace Mackie | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Practice placing all the gear while climbing. Got through the low crux but forgot what to do at the reachy section up high. Happy with the gear.
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25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Grace Mackie | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First lead attempt on the route. Came unstuck at the crux with the sun beating down on me. Took a nice whip onto my nice 0.2 cam, that thing was pretty bomber! Back-cleaned to the anchor and midway and lowered to rest and try again.
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25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Grace Mackie | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second lead attempt, coming unstuck at the same move as the last attempt. Pulled back on and went to the top from there. Will definitely go soon.
Very glad I can now just approach this route from the base, rather than the 45 mins hike through a million spider webs to reach to top |
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Sat 5th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Daniel Butler, Grace Mackie | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite an old school route with a nice bit of chimney thrutching in the middle. great gear throughout.
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Sun 15th Nov 2020 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Holy Fisticuffs Batman - with Grace Mackie, Adrian Kladnig, Bridget Whitnall | 18m | ★ Good | |||
bit of a thrutch in the top chimney. Now I know why you are supposed to wear pants when doing offwidth/chimneys...
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18 | ★★ Stainless Mystery - with Grace Mackie, Adrian Kladnig, Bridget Whitnall | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
very enjoyable climbing, the traverse to link the two crack sections detracts a little from the rest of the climb.
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Sat 14th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Grace Mackie | 130m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
linked pitched 1+2, then 4+5. good day out taking Bridget Whitnall on her first multipitch!
got more pumped on the final pitch than I ought to have
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Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Grace Mackie | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
definitely not a route to try in summer, with the sun on it...
But this is hands down one of the best routes I've tried in a while. mind you I didn't have the fear instilled by leading it. Fairly straight-forward climbing in the first half with what looks like pretty good gear, before heading up into the thin section. Some shouldery moves getting established in the thin crack which looks like it will be pretty hard to protect/place gear while there on lead. Will be getting back on this whenever I can!! |
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Tue 1st Sep 2020 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort - with Grace Mackie | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt somewhat bold for the grade with spaced bolting. I think I strayed a few times into the route to the left but just couldn't see any other holds that looked OK for the grade. Interesting technical face climbing throughout.
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister - with Grace Mackie | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Phenomenal pitch, mega-mega-classic. A contender for my favourite single pitch trad route to date. Managed to relax and really enjoyed myself on it. Great pro the whole way, 2 sets of nuts mandatory, if not even 3, and plenty of 0.3's and 0.4's. Crux sequence was more just pulling hard than anything too tricky, with really great fingerlocks for most of the head-wall afterwards.
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Mon 31st Aug 2020 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Grace Mackie | 81m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb in the wolgan. what an introduction with the super burly start moves of this route pulling the low lip. Definitely thought this would be easier when looking at it from the ground. There was a section of nice hands, but it didn't last very long. Glad I had seen Grace go up prior and knew to keep some larger gear to protect the crack at the top, rather than have a rather long run-out like her. Don't think its quite the classic it's hyped to be after climbing The Knuckle later in the day.
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19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
- with
Grace Mackie
1
19
31m
2
16
21m
| 52m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Such an enjoyable route! Linked the first two pitches together as one long, fun corner. Bomber gear the whole way, and fun moves throughout. All these holds keep appearing on the faces just as you expect to have to pull hard corner/stemming moves. Move out on the arete took a little bit of commitment but very enjoyable!
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Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Micawber
- with
Grace Mackie
| 77m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely mega first pitch! Felt a lot harder than some other 21's that I've done recently 😆 Onsighted both pitches on lead.
P1- fairly straightforward climbing to start with until you hit the stemming corner. Managed to find a hands-free rest partway through which helped manage the calf-pump. Found it pretty tricky getting myself out of the corner to reach out to the hand-crack. Much more strenuous crack moving than I have done in a while but got much nicer the higher I went. I think my brain was tired after this pitch because I rigged one of my least comfortable bays ever... P2- pretty shitty pitch but required to top out, and pretty sure I was in the correct corner system. Quite vegetated and lots of friable rock. Breaking off 4 footholds in the first 5-10m certainly did not inspire much confidence. |
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19 |
★★★ Sago Entrée
- with
Grace Mackie
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a classy route! Two great pitches with intriguing climbing and good pro. Didn't bother with the final pitch as it looked overgrown and average and P2 tops out at a chain anchor.
P1 - second. Fun stemming up the corner and a rather committing move the surmount the small rooflet towards the end of the pitch. P2 - onsight. Some slightly strenuous climbing to start off with, and ended up trusting a large chicken head footer that I very much thought would snap under me. Pretty cruisy from there to a bit of an awkward topout. Was more than happy to use the bolt that was at the top of the pitch given the awkwardness of the moves. |
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Wed 26th Aug 2020 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Brat Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Beat on the Brat - with Grace Mackie | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
fun route up the obvious corner crack. thrutched my way up the bottom laybacking and smearing my feet on the dirty right wall. became much nicer once i could fit my hands into the crack at about half height. from there lots of face holds became available at it was fairly straight forward to the top.
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Mon 24th Aug 2020 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Bluff Mountain | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Flight of the Phoenix - with Grace Mackie | 310m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not quite the mega-classic I was hoping it to be, but still a good day out in an amazing location. Pitches 2 and 5 were great, but otherwise the climbing seemed fairly average. Done with 2x 50m ropes only nearly ran out on the traverse pitch 4, but got to a stance with 50cm of rope to spare.
P1 - Second. Even with the description, fairly dubious where exactly to start. We found the anchor and tat ok, but the climbing definitely felt easier than grade 18. P2 - Onsight. Nice (and definitely harder than P1) climbing through a few corner systems to an obvious anchor up on the ledge at the left edge of the wing. Good gear the whole way. P3 - slightly awkward abseil sideways down the corner. Was quite unclear at the time as to where to set up the belay, there were several equally average looking places to set up the belay. Ended up taking the advice of previous climbers to leave a loop of rope through the anchor while the leader set out on the traverse pitch. P4 - second. Rope-stretching pitch (50m) in a pretty wild position. P5 - Onsight. Really enjoyable climbing up the obvious orange streak. Good gear and nice moves. P6-8 pretty rambly up the last few pitches following the left-trending groove and slab to finish. About 9 hours camp-camp. Fun to tackle this route expedition-style by camping out the night beforehand at Dows camp. Legs felt pretty tired hiking in and out with heavy packs of climbing and camping gear. Approach from the camp was pretty straightforward as described, hard to really get lost as you just follow around the base of the mountain. |
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Wed 19th Aug 2020 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
19 | ★★ Burning Spear - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★ Good | |||
bit of a runout start up the slab, but became better protected after that.
some decent jamming moves throughout the crux. descend off the most rusted anchor i have seen to date. should probably be retired some time soon. |
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17 | ★★ Yummikins - with Grace Mackie | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
second Grace. first pitch at Kaputar.
Interesting 3D stemming up the corner with endless bomber nuts. |
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19 | ★★ Best Foot Forward - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely going to take a bit of time to get used to the style of pro at Kaputar. Spent ages hanging around trying to get in the many small wires throughout the route. Thankfully there are plenty of good stances to hang around placing gear.
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20 | ★★ Revisited - with Grace Mackie | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
fun arete climbing mostly on bolts with a few pieces of gear in between. there's quite a few different options in sections of the route, climbed it quite differently to grace. Finished the route by climbing left at the top to the rapel anchors.
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Mon 17th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Solomon - with Grace Mackie | 51m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What an amazing line! First half of the top pitch is bomber hand jams up the corner to tougher moves getting established underneath the roof. Got in a bit of a panic near the roof and ended up flailing around feet-free off a chicken-wing jam... But pulled through in the end.
Spaced carrot bolts throughout the entire climb give it an air of safety (despite being old bash-ins), and a couple of extra #3 Camalots are handy for the belay at the top of P1. |
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Mon 17th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh - with Adrian Kladnig | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally bought some big cams so decided to have a go at this. Turns out you can get away without it....
Didn't really know where to go at the top, didn't want to finish up the carthaginian due to poor rope drag, so decided to go up the arete and face thinking there would be gear but there was not... |
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Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
20 21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD - with Grace Mackie, Daniel Butler | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the best pure crack lines I have tried yet in the Blueys. Amazing diagonal hand crack with solid hands and a couple of thought provoking sections. Turns out there are enough face holds to bypass all the harder jamming after watching Grace Mackie send it.
After trying Solomon the following day, there is no way that this is a grade harder. Possibly still even soft for 20. |
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19 |
★★ Thruxton (Thruxton P1)
- with
Grace Mackie, Daniel Butler
1
19
27m
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable mix of jamming, layback and stemming with solid great the whole way.
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Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Gemini - with Grace Mackie | 51m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally got back on this after my attempt seconding it several years ago.
Awesome diagonal hand crack widening up to fists up higher. The crux was a lot shorter than I remembered too. |
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Fri 17th Jul 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Graveyard Wall - with Grace Mackie | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Great climbing around the thin crack on good gear to two hard crux sequences up higher. Surprised myself hanging onto the pod in the crack. Don't know what everyone is talking about dynoing up to this... Super hard moves through the bolts of the face above the crack. Had to pull through in the end. Could see what needed to be done but nowhere near strong enough at the moment
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Fri 17th Jul 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - with Grace Mackie | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Had a play on top rope after Grace's first lead attempt. Did not feel nearly as hard on TR as I remember it being on lead 😂. Definitely will come back to lead it again though, such a classic. Still don't know whether the hands-free rest in the pod at 2/3 is considered off route or not...
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Fri 17th Jul 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - with Grace Mackie | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm-up lap. Cold fingers and different shoes made this feel a little harder than I remembered.
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icebird - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely did not feel like leading this, but felt good to get in a lap on top-rope. I was disappointed to see how little crack climbing went into this route.
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17 | ★★★ Grey Mist - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
followed grace up this great warm-up. skin felt very tender after a few days at Nowra...
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Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Grace Mackie | 61m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An awesome route, and surprised myself with an onsight of the second pitch.
Pretty tough start with high gear on pitch one, and up the groove on good gear. Second pitch started with a fun slab, then through the bulge on bomber gear and surprisingly juggy holds. Just when I thought I was going to pump off, more jugs appeared! Linked the second and third pitches. Definitely recommend approaching it from Shipley Upper and rapping in, the walk along the base of the cliff was a lot longer than expected. |
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Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Mindblower - with Grace Mackie | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
great route, shame it's so short
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Sun 31st May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Massively under-rated climb!
Sustained climbing at the grade on bomber gear the whole way. Interesting and varied climbing throughout. |
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Sun 31st May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Stateline Gully | ||||||
19 | ★★ Touchstone - with Grace Mackie | 30m | ★ Good | |||
interesting climbing on good gear.
some tough moves down low followed by much easier climbing up high that gets a bit run out on carrots. |
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Sun 31st May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Camerons Crest | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Allied Chemical News - with Grace Mackie | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
nice warmup, but definitely spaced out the bolts a bit.
would definitely recommend just walking around to the top of the pillar to start. |
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Sun 17th May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bairds Effort - with Grace Mackie | 37m | ★★ Very Good | |||
good to get back leading some more moderate trad routes. definitely could do with a bit more endurance though.
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Grace Mackie | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
start was WAY harder than i remember it being. actually ended up starting up the ramp from the left before heading up.
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Sun 17th May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
19 | ★★ I'd Rather Be Sailing - with Grace Mackie | 28m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
start was a bit harder than i remember....
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Challenging thin climbing in the bottom half to a great rest at halfway, where you can build an absolute nest of cams, to easier climbing above.