Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Achleiten | |||||
Bauernwandl obere Wand | |||||
9a 9a+ |
★★ Neuron
![]() 2nd Ascent after Roland Hemetzberger. shares the crux of 'The Void' but climbs a harder start into it. Since you have such an amazing knee bar in the middle it doesn't make it much harder though, in my opinion. | ★★ Very Good | |||
9a |
★★ The Void
![]() Really struggled with the crux move at the top at first but with good skin it went down first try today. Really hard to grade since it's mostly about this one single move, could be 9a could be easier for someone who loves pockets I don't know. 2nd Ascent after Roli I think.. | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | |||||
Bauernwandl obere Wand | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Tunnelblick
![]() 2nd Go, might be on the soft side. What a line though!! | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | |||||
Panoramawandl | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Mantra
![]() I think this was the first ascent after a big hold broke, it‘s an amazing power endurance route and now even more so. Think it is quite a bit harder now, maybe 8c/8c+ before and harder 8c+ now. Loved this climb!! | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | |||||
Rosengarten | |||||
8a+ |
★★ Leninakan
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | |||||
Panoramawandl | |||||
8b |
★★ Rocketman
![]() Thanks to misha for the perfect beta! Pretty hard for 8b | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Thu 5th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | |||||
Rosengarten | |||||
8b |
★★★ Ehrentotzen
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Mon 2nd Nov 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | |||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | |||||
8b 8c+ |
★★ Orca
![]() Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉 | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Wed 21st Oct 2020 - Bus de Vela | |||||
8b+ 8c |
★★ Scoglio de Capri
![]() 2nd Go. Messed up the starting boulder which is pretty reachy, 8b+/8c but probably more 8b+ | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Bus de Vela | |||||
8a |
★★ Er Bus
![]() bouldery and hard to onsight haha | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
8c+ |
★★ Il Frutto del Diavolo
![]() 3rd Go. cool line but had to clean most of the holds again, doesn't seem to get much traffic | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Parete di Padaro Gotico | |||||
8a |
★★ Viaggi Stellari...nel Porno
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||
9a |
★★ Omen Nomen
![]() Checked it out a cuple of weeks ago and send it 2nd go today, somehow felt much stronger even in the sun. Psyched! | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||
8a+ |
★ Fine di un'Epoca
![]() | 32m | ★ Good | ||
Fri 16th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Pizarra | |||||
8b+ |
★★ Zero Tolleranza
![]() Cool new start into Riflessi del Rosso, definitely the harder brother so 8b+/8c should be appropriate. It was basically a flash but I did Riflessi a couple years ago. | ★★ Very Good | |||
8b+ 8c |
★★★ Terra Piatta
![]() Sick day! First sending Beginning in Eremo then onsighting this and doing another 8b+/8c first go | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 16th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord Eremo di San Paolo | |||||
9a 9a/a+ |
★ Beginning
![]() Cool connection of St. Anger and Zauberfee basically connecting both hard parts making it 8c+ into 8c+ with a crazy feet first knee bar rest in between. Had some trouble with wet holds but somehow pulled through. Definitely a hard 9a maybe 9a/9a+ is fair not sure. | ★ Good | |||
Wed 14th Oct 2020 - Narango | |||||
8c |
Mr. Teroldego
![]() | ||||
8c 8c+ |
★ Natural Present
![]() 8c/8c+. 2nd Go, fell high up on my onsight.. | ★ Good | |||
8a |
The Walking Death
![]() | ||||
8c |
Cinque Uve
![]() Could be 8b+, hard to grade after an onsight but felt really soft compared to the other 8c‘s | ||||
Tue 13th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Nord Eremo di San Paolo | |||||
8c+ |
★ Zauberfee
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||
Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Massone Settore F | |||||
9a |
Thunder Ribes
![]() 2nd Go after checking it out once 2 weeks ago. Hard to grade since it‘s just a really long climb with many rests and no crazy crux. Could be 8c+ I think or at least 8c+/9a 🤔 | Average | |||
Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | |||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | |||||
9a |
★★ Fugu
![]() 3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido! | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Wed 7th Oct 2020 - Secret Crag | |||||
8c |
★★★ Goldrausch
![]() Wow such an amazing one!! thanks for the beta and showing us this line Heiko!! | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | |||||
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Lichtjahre
![]() After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route. I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly. It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy! Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance. One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more! | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Thu 1st Oct 2020 - Narango | |||||
9a |
★ Bio-logiko
![]() | ★ Good | |||
Wed 30th Sep 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Parete di Padaro Gotico | |||||
8a+ |
★★★ La Principessa di Cioccolato
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Tue 29th Sep 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Massone Settore F | |||||
8c+ 9a |
★ Pure Dreaming
![]() 2nd Go, 8c+ is more appropriate than 9a in my opinion | 30m | Average | ||
Wed 2nd Sep 2020 - Valle del Sarca | |||||
Parete di Padaro Gotico | |||||
7c |
★★★ L'uomo Inutile
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Nösslach | |||||
Sonnenblume | |||||
8b |
★★★ June Afternoon
![]() 2nd Ascent. In memory of my friend Hansjörg Auer | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 21st May 2020 - Zillergrund | |||||
Schwarze Wand Pussle Bussle | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Road to the Source
![]() Alfons grabbed the 2nd ascent and I shortly followed with the 3rd. Awesome line! | ★★★ Classic | |||
8b |
★★★ Sprungbrettl
![]() crazy fight, not the easiest one to onsight :'D | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sun 17th May 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | |||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Gambit
![]() Such a good one! 3rd Go. | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Fri 1st May 2020 - Monkey Island | |||||
9a |
★★★ Walk the Line
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Tue 28th Apr 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | |||||
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand | |||||
8c |
★★★ Mercy Street
![]() 'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!! | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Tue 28th Apr 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | |||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | |||||
9a |
★★★ Weiße Rose
![]() 3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route! | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Sun 10th Nov 2019 - Margalef | |||||
Raco De La Finestra | |||||
8c+ |
★ Victimes Del Futur
![]() My hardest flash so far! People call it 9a since two things broke in the crux but could very well still be 8c+, hard to tell with just one try on it. Love the bouldery style! | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - Margalef | |||||
Raco De La Finestra | |||||
9a 9a/a+ |
★★★ Gancho Perfecto
![]() What a day! Quickly checked the moves after sending Perfecto Mundo and did it right after before it got dark. Such a cool route! | ★★★ Classic | |||
9b+ |
★★★ Perfecto Mundo
![]() 3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!! | 26m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Thu 10th Jan 2019 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
8c 8c+ |
★★ La Ultima Ola
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||
9a |
★★ La Novena Enmienda
![]() | 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 28th Dec 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9b |
★★ Neanderthal
![]() 2nd ascent after Chris Sharma! Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!! You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge) 2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest 3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sat 1st Dec 2018 - La Cova de l'Ocell | |||||
Sector Coves | |||||
9a+ 9b |
★★★ El Bon Combat
![]() One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper. Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!! | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Scheabichl | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Synergieeffekt
![]() A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds. | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
7b+ |
★★★ Harry Has It All
![]() | ||||
8a+ |
Baumkrone
![]() | ||||
Sat 20th Oct 2018 - Nassereith | |||||
Götterwandl | |||||
8c+ |
★ Juturna
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | ||
Fri 12th Jan 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9a |
Mercenaris del Passat
![]() broke the top hold when I was going to clip the chains, so some would say not an actual ascent.. Would be the 2nd ascent after chris took out the sika holds I think. hard for 9a.. | 35m | |||
Thu 11th Jan 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
8c+ |
★ Santa Linya Extension
![]() | ★ Good | |||
Tue 9th Jan 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9a+ |
★ Catxasa
![]() a lot of sika but climbs well! soft for 9a+ I think | ★ Good | |||
7c |
★★ Kañotero
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 8th Jan 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
8a+ |
★★ Irak Attack
![]() flash/onsight | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 5th Jan 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9b |
★★★ Stoking the Fire
![]() 3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 4th Jan 2018 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
7c+ |
★★ Davora Hombres
![]() | ||||
Sat 30th Dec 2017 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
7b+ |
★★ Boludo
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | ||
Sat 14th Oct 2017 - Niederthai | |||||
Minas Tirith | |||||
8c |
★★★ Passport 2 Honesty
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Fri 13th Oct 2017 - Monkey Island | |||||
8b+ |
★★ Linke Generation
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Tue 10th Oct 2017 - Nassereith | |||||
Götterwandl | |||||
8c+ |
★ Juturna
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | ||
Jan 2017 - Oliana | |||||
Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||
9a+ |
★★★ Pachamama
![]() | 50m | |||
Fri 23rd Dec 2016 - Oliana | |||||
Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||
9a 8c+/9a |
★★ Joe Cita
![]() | ★ Good | |||
Dec 2016 - Oliana | |||||
Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||
9a+ |
Joe Mama
![]() | ||||
Oct 2016 - Berglsteiner See | |||||
Block | |||||
9a |
Kraftplatzl
![]() 2.Ascent | ||||
Oct 2016 - Elefantenwand | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Ganesha
![]() | ||||
8c+ 9a |
Kein Licht kein Schatten
![]() | 15m | |||
May 2016 - Flatanger | |||||
Hanshallaren Nordic Flower | |||||
8c |
★★ Nordic Flower
![]() | ||||
May 2016 - Flatanger | |||||
Hanshallaren Muy Verdes | |||||
9a+ |
Kangaroo's Limb
![]() | ||||
Mar 2016 - Jaén | |||||
Otiñar | |||||
8c+ |
Tres Satélites
![]() | ||||
8c+ 8c+/9a |
Fuck the Police
![]() | ||||
Jan 2016 - Villanueva del Rosario | |||||
Chilam | |||||
9b |
La Planta de Shiva
![]() | 45m | |||
Jan 2016 - Jaén | |||||
Otiñar | |||||
8c |
★★★ Sex after Climb
![]() | ||||
Sun 1st Nov 2015 - Kompanj | |||||
Beastiqueen | |||||
8c 8c+ |
All in, I'm out
![]() | 15m | |||
Nov 2015 - Bergstation | |||||
Coque au vin | |||||
9a+ |
Companion of Change
![]() | 25m | |||
Nov 2015 - Istarske Toplice | |||||
Hallelujah cave | |||||
8c+ |
Cavemen's Playgound
![]() 2.Try | 20m | |||
Oct 2015 - Saustein | |||||
9a 8c+ to 9a |
Grantiger Bauer
![]() | ||||
Aug 2015 - Flatanger | |||||
Hanshallaren Muy Verdes | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Muy Verdes
![]() | ||||
8c+ |
★★★ Odin's Eye
![]() | ||||
Aug 2015 - Flatanger | |||||
Hanshallaren Nordic Flower | |||||
9a+ |
★★★ Thor's Hammer
![]() | ||||
Wed 31st Dec 2014 - Oliana | |||||
Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||
9b |
★★★ Fight or Flight
![]() First 9b, such an amazing birthday present! | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Tue 23rd Jul 2013 - Céüse | |||||
Biographie | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Mister Hyde
![]() 3rd Go. amazing route! | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Tue 16th Jul 2013 - La Balme | |||||
Big bang: Sector 7 & 8 | |||||
8b |
★★ Big bang
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 3rd Jan 2013 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9a 9a/a+ |
★★ Open Your Mind Direct (Direct open your mind)
![]() back home after tomorrow.. was an amazing spain trip again, back to training mode now... | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Thu 3rd Jan 2013 - Santa Linya | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Gypsy Blood
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 2nd Jan 2013 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9a 8c+ to 9a |
★★★ Analogica Natural
![]() 3rd Go, but I knew the 2nd part already..(Seleccio Natural). Again with the new little extension, SA after Magnus of this version of the route,easy 9a like that we think... future will tell though.. | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||
9a |
★★ Fuck the System
![]() 3rd Go this trip. two 9a's in a day, great start of the year!! | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sun 30th Dec 2012 - Margalef | |||||
Laboratori | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Bumaye
![]() Best route that I have done in Margalef! 3rd Go this year/day (4th in total) | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Fri 28th Dec 2012 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9a |
★★★ Selecció Natural Left Extension
![]() FA of the new little extention which gives this nice line the obvious end. Solid 9a like this I think.. | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 24th Dec 2012 - Santa Linya | |||||
Cova Gran | |||||
9a |
★★ Ciudad de Dios
![]() 2nd day in Spain, feels great to be here! Merry Christmas!! | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sat 3rd Dec 2011 - Oliana | |||||
Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ Marroncita Extension
![]() really good! short slabby boulder after the 8b. I guess SA after Chris | ★★★ Classic | |||
8c |
★★★ Paper mullat
![]() awesome!!! 8b+/8c | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Wed 30th Nov 2011 - Oliana | |||||
Contrafort de Rumbau | |||||
8b |
★★ De picos pardos (Picos Pardos)
![]() basically onsight | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Mon 21st Nov 2011 - Mišja Peč | |||||
Right | |||||
9a |
★★ Martin Krpan
![]() Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec! | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 21st Nov 2011 - Mišja Peč | |||||
Centre | |||||
8b |
★★ Marioneta
![]() japanese beta | 19m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 13th Jun 2011 - Nassereith | |||||
Götterwandl | |||||
8b |
★★ Fortuna
![]() so humid! | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||
8c |
★ Athene
![]() 2nd Ascent | 20m | ★ Good | ||
8c+ |
★★ Fonax
![]() 2nd Go this year, 3rd in total... | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||
8b |
★★ Odysseus
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 30th May 2011 - Voralpsee | |||||
8a |
★★★ Grenzgänger
![]() in the sun... | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||
8a+ |
★★ Bandit
![]() Speed is amazing! waiting for better conditions... | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Thu 26th May 2011 - Zillergrund | |||||
Schwarze Wand Pussle Bussle | |||||
8c+ |
★★★ The Source
![]() 3rd Go this year... what a route!!!! 3rd Ascent | 25m | ★★★ Classic |