Ascents as trad by Jim Olsen having Distinct route

Four leads, I led one. It was onsight for me but not Ray. Ray Jacquot, Bob Frisby, an englishman and I did it.

Rock holds pro really well and first lead is continually good climbing.

When Fritz & I climbed this we thought it was a different climb. We don't know if it was climbed before. I would give the crux a 5.6. The rest of the climb is only 5.4 - 5.5.

The standard ascent route starts up a chimney with some loose 20 to 40 pound boulders you need to hang on to climb it, so I moved 15' around the corner up a face (Fritz pointed out) which still had some, much more manageable loose rocks, for the first pitch. The rest was on the standard route.

We started about 100' to the right of Lost Line. The route joins Lost Line at the second belay point. Top half of the Third pitch features a fun arete (total 5 pitches). Slings at first belay point indicate it's been climbed often on.

Toward the top I got ancy about making the moves I wanted (layback to mantle), because the ton and a half rock I wanted to use moves. So I went up a rather nasty little chimney (pumpy 5.7-5.7+).

led 3x in '04 also '92 or'93

bypassed the crux move on my lead (a woose-out)

'92 + '93. Route in guidebook is average, well above average if you go straight up on face for second lead. Upper part of first lead is too easy; could climb on "arete" 2' right of dihedral to keep this section interesting.

Lotsa fun on fantastic rock. Climbed w/ Mike Olsen. Bypassed crux.

Led first and fourth pitches. Thouroughly enjoyable.

So good I did it twice in one day, one lead, one second.

FFA. Plenty of rotten basalt. I rapidly learned how to dodge falling rocks. One, about the size of a baseball cracked the helmet liner I was using for a climbing helmet. Because of emissions from coal fired plants in the area the quality of the rock now is probably worse. Can't climb on it anyhow now because the Navajos don't want you on this, one of thier sacred mountains.

Was gonna lead Juniper Overhang, but wussed out.

Aptly named. In and out of funny chimney (need to be skinny to get out of chimney) onto face

Fritz led, then I pinkpointed so I wouldn't have to reset gear.

Seemed harder than 5.6

Slightly monotonous.

Possible gear placements render it PG-13.

Reclimbed it in 2005. Keeping near the right side of the water stain vastly improves the climb. Doing all possible face climbing on second pitch also improves climb and adds a little bit of 5.7. Runout!