Ascents as trad by @jwelch having Distinct route

I have no idea what possesed me to lead this, as my previous hardest lead had been Frog's Head (5.5+/5.6-). But I was feeling good and wanted to push my lead head (and I knew the climb was still well within my abilities), so I went for it. It's an awesome, awesome line. Only did P1 and skipped the (5.4) second pitch. The crux is at the start, and ranges from G to PG-13 depending on how much you trust fixed pins. The first half is protected by a small wire (#1 Rock) and a pin; the second only by a pin. I figure the pin would probably have held since a fall on it would be short, but I certainly wouldn't call it bomber, so I'd say the Gray Dick's PG rating is accurate. It's G if you trust the pins. The rest of the route is sustained but slightly easier, well protected (small runout below the roof), and very aesthetic and fun climbing.

Easy, fun, and wicked bunny.

There's so much hype about it, and granted, it's a damn fine route. It didn't disappoint. I already had full beta on the move, so it was easy. Led the first long pitch up to the lunch ledge (some forgettable climbing, but a really nice open book/corner system in the middle). Followed the money pitch, would like to go back and lead.

OK climb, not bad but wouldn't go out of my way to climb it again. The Grey Dick says there is a rap station at the pine, but it is non-existant. You can walk off either direction.

I'm still shocked that we even got on this route on Labor Day weekend. But it's definitely sweeeet. Do it in one pitch; there's absolutely no need to stop and belay, even if you sew it up and use a single rope. I had no problems with rope drag at all. Just extend your pieces accordingly (double length runner just before the traverse, shoulder length on the pieces during the traverse).

Good route; fairly strenuous crux (for 5.8).

It's more than "somewhat polished" nowadays. Nice climbing; kind of some funky moves, but fun.

Easy but enjoyable.

Led all three pitches. I thought the first pitch was the worst of the three, with awkward moves and a wandering line that promotes rope drag unless you have doubles. Pitch 2 however is good climbing, the crux is some thin (for 5.5) face moves above an old piton and a 00 Friend (or a green Alien if you want to take away one of the best holds). Pitch 3 is easy wandering up a face with nice exposure. Somebody had nicked the rap anchors on top, but there was a nearby station over by Betty.

Nice easy climb, Christa led both pitches. Definitely worth doing.

Only did P1. Christa led up to the first crux then decided to "honorably retreat" due to lack of gear, so I climbed on TR up to her anchor then lead the remainder. Suberb climb, the final roof is ridiculously fun and have excellent pro. Will have to go do the second pitch at some point. I've been back since and led the entire thing cleanly, both pitches.

Apparently Dick Williams and I have a little bit different idea of what constitutes a "G" rating. I figure a G rated climb should have good pro frequently the whole way, not just at the crux. So I was a bit freaked on a couple easier sections with pro a ways beneath me. But, anyway, it was a good climb, led both pitches clean, and a good experience for this new leader for sure. Still a recommended climb.

P1 onsight 7/30/05, P2 onsight 8/7/05. P1 is excellent, and it's difficulty is directly related to how good your crack technique is (mine is non-existant...). P2 is about as hard a climb as a 5.5 could possibly be, with overhanging rock, some thin moves, a foot traverse, somewhat tricky routefinding and pro in places. But, most definitely a very good climb. Don't lower off after the first pitch; do the whole thing. Just watch for the crowds.

Fun route. I almost want to say it feel harder than 5.7, but that may just be because I don't get to do a whole lot of layback routes.

Christa led, took her awhile to do the crux, a committing move around a small triangular roof. Dirt said later that Ursula is considered to be quite underrated. It was definitely a fun route though, and I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The Gunks is the only place I've been where I can climb stuff this far below my ability and still enjoy it as much as I did.

Christa led the Finger Locks Or Cedar Box variation first pitch and the second pitch; I led the third. 'Bout as steep as a 5.2 could possibly be (I guesstimated 5.5 at the time, not knowing what I was on). Not a great climb, but not horrible. Quite a bit of loose stuff.

Awesome, awesome route. I loved the second big move near the top, where you throw with the left for a big jug. We just TR'd this off the MF anchor. I fell several times on the deviously tricky lower crux, but I believe I completed the route with no beta. As with everything I've climbed thus far in the Gunks, I'd rate it at least a full grade harder, maybe even a bit more in this particular case. I don't know that I could pcik just one route as a favorite from this weekend, but this one is up there.

Christa led P1 then we all followed up. Easy fun, good for learning to lead trad. I led P2 (which was a a freaking ledge walk, but without a lot of good pro) and set up a almost completely worthless anchor at the top. Christa and Dirt rapped off from P1 and Giz followed me up, where we took two raps down. Good time, and I enjoyed my second ever trad lead (first if you only count ones where I knew how to place pro correctly).

Just did P1. Charlie led it drunk (he didn't realize he was still under the influence until he started to sober up later) and set a TR for us. He said everybody who comes to the Gunks should do this route, and I fully agree. Awesome. No falls, minimal beta, great fun. On lead, there would be a scary little runout with a committing move.

First time I was here, I got pumped too early and couldn't finish this route as it is sustained 5.8 for the first 2/3 of the climb. Today I sent it first try though (next time I will stretch BEFORE climbing a route this long and pumpy). Lots of fun movement on big holds.

Only did the first section, up to the chain anchors. Very cool route - expecially the opening sequence and the high step/heel hook off a small right hand crimp. Recommended route. First try, with beta.

Don't remember the exact date I climbed this... it's been awhile. I did it during the outdoor rock climbing class I took at RIT. I do remember it was quite easy though.

My first multi pitch climb. Followed the first two pitches, lead the super easy third pitch. Not much exposure before you get to the saddle at the top of the third pitch, but if you climb up out of the saddle to the left it gets pretty exposed and really fun.