Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | ||||||||
11 | ★ Action Directe | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 12th Sep 2004 | |||
Seemed a bit tricky to solo in walking shoes. I backed off.
|
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34 | ||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
Got fingers on the edge for the first time. Didn't stick. Beta = smear the L foot.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 15th Aug 2007 | ||||
First shot bumped R-foot twice more on original (R-hand off balance) sequence, but could only do this once.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 4th Jul 2009 | ||||
So much better with the shifted bolt. So I was able to stick some of the shitty holds but not pop to the 'good' one. But then, using the original sequence, I managed to suck it up and get my fingers perfectly over the good hold (almost static), but not stick it. This should be the way forward I think. BE MUTANT STRONG!
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 4th Jul 2009 | ||||
Second shot - very keen to get Nige on it.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 11th Jul 2009 | ||||
Not quite as arctic today, little bit of sweaty tips and suddenly heaps harder.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 26th Aug 2007 | ||||
Warm day, but good friction with the wind. Now exclusively trying the L-hand gaston sequence.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 25th Sep 2008 | ||||
Dog to strip the draws
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 24th Jun 2009 | ||||
Only one shot before going bolting. Re-popping the gaston to four fingers (from 3) makes it a lot stronger. Probably need to experiment with lots of subtly different R foot positions.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 2nd Jul 2009 | ||||
Moved the bolt which will make it less painful to work. But I'd burned all my max power the previous shot and had nothing.
|
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33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 11th Jul 2009 | ||||
Didn't get my fingers over the top. Crap on this today. Not feeling it yo.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 15th Aug 2007 | ||||
New, more direct L-hand gaston sequence discovered. Majorly powerful. Climbed from the top of the bulge to the finish cleanly, clipping all the bolts for the first time.
|
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33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | ||||
First time pulled from the doubles to the edge.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | ||||
Third shot - crappy. Dogged to top.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 2nd Jul 2009 | ||||
One of my more solid efforts. Gareth belaying and offering suggestions. Perfect friction conditions - strong wind. Experimenting with the other L-hand gaston which may be the go..
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 5th Aug 2007 | ||||
The impossible project. Can't even hang the holds.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
Greasy and evil this shot, traversed off and established a second project.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | ||||
uggggggg
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 26th Aug 2007 | ||||
Beta: After taking the L-hand gaston with feet on the ledge, bump the R-foot up in order to reset the gaston and get it properly = much stronger!
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 26th Aug 2007 | ||||
It's demoralising to think that I haven't even begun to work the true crux move up higher.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 20th Jun 2009 | ||||
shot 2
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 15th Aug 2007 | ||||
Super greasy as the rain moved in. Couldn't hold anything.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 30th Aug 2008 | ||||
Shaden send day. Geared it up again for the season, even though the season is kinda over. Everything on it felt impossible.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 20th Jun 2009 | ||||
shot 3. So today I felt pretty psyched to have pulled from the doubles to the edge, but apparently I did that in 2007. Sigh. I need to just pour more energy at it until something happens.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 17th Jun 2009 | ||||
Angry Dragon send day. Got the gear on. It all felt pretty bullcrap.
|
||||||||
33 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 20th Jun 2009 | ||||
shot 1
|
||||||||
33 34 | (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) | 15m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 25th Apr 2012 | ||||
After Vicious Wishes send. So, couldn't get RH to that hold. Need a name for that hold. From that and LH on slope edge ("the doubles"), did go to small edge and hold. Did also do final couple of moves of the central boulder in isolation.
|
||||||||
33 | ||||||||
33 | ★★★ Tiger Cat - with Dave Hoyle | 25m | Blue Mountains | Fri 9th Nov 2018 | ||||
Opening the account on a life list route. Just the opening sequence.
|
||||||||
33 | ★★★ Tiger Cat - with Sammi | 25m | Blue Mountains | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | ||||
A really encouraging go. All sections done except one low move. I’m in love.
|
||||||||
32 | ||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 14th May 2009 | ||||
#3 High point, slapped crimp.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 4th Apr 2009 | ||||
Tired and raining, but on the positive side, climbed from the third bolt up (skipped clip) and over to the brick pinch cleanly, fell, and snapped a branch off in my arse. Beta: take rope and tie the tree back.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||
#1 finger freeze grab. crux a couple of times, but also failed a couple of times.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 8th Apr 2009 | ||||
Fell on slap out R, worked moves, did crux crimp.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 8th Apr 2009 | ||||
Just 10min rest, then up, held the slap R, but too gassed to make the clip. Went up to crux, grabbed and clipped in, worked crux some, felt slippy on brick pinch and also crimp when I held it.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Wed 8th Apr 2009 | ||||
First time doing 4th shot. Sore, moist skin. Had nothing for the slap R. Felt brutal just climbing up to crux - power yelling and carrying on.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 14th May 2009 | ||||
#6 High point, slapped crimp(!) Beta for this day: SQUEEZE THE FUCK out of the pinch.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 4th Apr 2009 | ||||
Wet day. New bolts, hung the draws. Dogged like a fiend. Super hard.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 30th May 2009 | ||||
#3 10 min rest then go again (triple shot). Good stuff again, holding crimp, left hand pinging off....
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 4th Apr 2009 | ||||
First two bolts, fell slapping R. Dogged up and did the crux move once (out of eight tries). Beta: shift the R-hand undercling further R before trying the slap..
|
||||||||
32 | FA ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th May 2009 | |||
The day before my 32nd birthday. 67 shots. 18 days.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||
#6 high point crimp slap. tried doing the super low link two or three times without success (came close), as the humidity had rolled in.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 30th Apr 2009 | ||||
Battled up with Sharma screams and actually made the high point but had no hope on the crimp. Pretty good for 4th shot.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 25th Sep 2008 | ||||
Bolted today (thanks Dunc for the vision). Did quite a few of the moves, but several holds require life support. This rig will be v hard.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★ Whistling Kite | 30m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Aug 2006 | |||
Fell on 2nd crux. Too warm now, next year. [6/10]
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||
#2 high point crimp slap
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 14th May 2009 | ||||
#5 High point, slapped crimp. Then, came down and did the super low link. Best shot.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Tue 30th Sep 2008 | ||||
Glue time
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 30th May 2009 | ||||
#1 warm up. So today was the day. 22°C (colder on back wall), windy, 61% humidity. Felt perfect conditions. Chalk bag off, shirt off, boardshorts. 380g saving =)
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 28th May 2009 | ||||
#1 warm up. this is the day of stripped down weight.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Mon 13th Apr 2009 | ||||
Pouring rain day. Shot 1: to crozley crimp (got on video). Beta: Don't pull over too far on the gaston. Lean out slightly with right shoulder to open up the chest. Also, don't stand right foot on hold, just drop it straight down near the draw. Felt strong this shot.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★ Whistling Kite | 30m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Aug 2006 | |||
Fell at the top. You're kidding! [5/8]
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 30th May 2009 | ||||
#3 10 min rest then go again (triple shot). Good stuff again, holding crimp, left hand pinging off...
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 25th Apr 2009 | ||||
Fell on the slap! Sooo crappy. Felt horrid.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 24th May 2009 | ||||
#4 bit lax on the crimp
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Tue 30th Sep 2008 | ||||
Glue time
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 14th May 2009 | ||||
#2 15 min break, then back up. high point, slapped crimp.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Mon 13th Apr 2009 | ||||
Shot 3: same.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds ((Summer Project - Lee)) | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Thu 22nd Oct 2009 | ||||
Finished bolting and gluing today. Temp bolts to be removed. Mucking around with the bowl moves, nailing my triceps. Not even close. However, did solve the top section completely, it's great.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds ((Summer Project - Lee)) | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 7th Nov 2009 | ||||
Unlocked the scoop sequence! Finally!
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 16th Apr 2009 | ||||
First shot dicked up the start then went up and clipped. Then for the first time, climbed from the two vertical edges all the way to the top (i.e. "the low link"). Awesome.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds ((Summer Project - Lee)) | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 7th Nov 2009 | ||||
Every move from deadhanging the horn to the top done. Only the start remains.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||
#4 high point crimp slap..
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ (Summer Project - Lee) | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Fri 16th Oct 2009 | ||||
Bolted completely from ground to anchor. Tried. Start, but not into bowl. No bowl moves at all. Slab to overhang done, overhang itself done except final moves.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Fri 10th Apr 2009 | ||||
Shot 3. Made the slap, up to gasto, fall. Far too torched, actually could not replicate the climbing into the crux at all. But then did do crux (?!) and climbed to top..
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 28th May 2009 | ||||
#4 Super solid shot again. Much the same as the previous. Note I feel like I am getting my chest high before going for the crimp. Good!
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 12th Oct 2008 | ||||
Did middle moves from undercling, up, bump, R-hand up, then L hand up to glue edge.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Mon 13th Apr 2009 | ||||
Shot 3: same.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★ Whistling Kite | 30m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Aug 2006 | |||
Warm up shot. [4/7]
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 24th May 2009 | ||||
#5 end of day exhaustion after bolting. came off intermediate crimp.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 30th May 2009 | ||||
#2 10 min rest then go again before cooling down too much. Using hand warmers to get ready.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds ((Summer Project - Lee)) | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Thu 5th Nov 2009 | ||||
Solved getting to matched sloping edge using standard front on technique and no tricks. Wasps built a big nest on route today.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 12th Oct 2008 | ||||
So destroyed.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Tue 30th Sep 2008 | ||||
Figured crossover sequence, R-hand power gaston, L foot high. Still have not conceptualised ANY of the clips!
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 30th Apr 2009 | ||||
Don't get so down on yourself cubby! Better conditions today, in fact, close to perfect. The key I've realised is that if it's warm, the skin sweats. If that happens on this route, it'll be a bloodbath. You need it cold and non-sweaty so the skin hardens the f$ck up. Anyhoo, first shot sucked. Fell on the slap, and fell on the move above it for the first time. Weird. Did the crux a couple of times then dirt.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 14th May 2009 | ||||
#5 High point, slapped crimp. Then, came down and did the super low link. Best shot..
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 16th Jan 2010 | ||||
start, figured out toehook
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 16th Jan 2010 | ||||
ground to slap the horn!
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 16th Jan 2010 | ||||
worked scoop but was weak. Couldn't hold the move out right.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 23rd Jan 2010 | ||||
ground to slap the horn!
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 23rd Jan 2010 | ||||
linked from deadhanging horn to wasp-nest move. Did wasp-nest move out about 3 times in 20. Not good odds.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Tue 26th Jan 2010 | ||||
too warm for start
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Tue 26th Jan 2010 | ||||
2 out of 3 on the scoop
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Tue 26th Jan 2010 | ||||
0 out of 4 on scoop, to top placing. Not clean.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sun 31st Jan 2010 | ||||
third try slapped horn from ground. Not doing the toe-hook catch anymore.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sun 31st Jan 2010 | ||||
From deadhang horn, to last bolt clean (first time through scoop clean)
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sun 31st Jan 2010 | ||||
From deadhang to scoop crux, fall, to top clean.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sun 31st Jan 2010 | ||||
From deadhang to scoop crux, fall, to top clean.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Tue 9th Feb 2010 | ||||
Played around on a jumar while waiting for JJ to get to the cliff. Turns out this was key!
|
||||||||
32 | FA ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Feb 2010 | |||
Rebolted Screaming/Wholly, then promptly sent the rig. V happy. Route is one of the cave's last great independent lines. Two hard boulders into 7c/+ headwall. 15 days all up.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds ((Summer Project - Lee)) | 23m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 31st Oct 2009 | ||||
All temp bolts removed and patched. Most time spent on start. Haven't yet matched edge out L. Have done couple of moves up from edge. Hmmmm....
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 12th Oct 2008 | ||||
Dog up to top to work out power gaston to top. And didn't. This is the only move left to do (plus all clips). Think I need to work route on top-rope with a tether.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Thu 30th Apr 2009 | ||||
Battled up with Sharma screams and actually made the high point but had no hope on the crimp. Pretty good for 4th shot..
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 10th May 2009 | ||||
#2: Slapped crimp, completely out of breath. Need to learn to breathe.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||
#3 high point crimp slap.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||
#5 best shot so far. High point crimp slap, but held for a 10th of a second, and it was actually the left hand that blew, not the crimp. This is the shot on the video.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 10th May 2009 | ||||
#3: Strongest shot yet. Slapped crimp, then came down to SUPER LOW LINK and did it on the second try all the way through (i.e. 7 moves into the crux, then through). The day I climb 20 moves into the crux then through I have completed the route.
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 30th May 2009 | ||||
#4 Had a bigger break before this shot (up to sit in the sun), but then only about 10 minutes between this one and the next..
|
||||||||
32 | ★★ Whistling Kite | 30m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2006 | |||
False start [2/5]
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sun 24th May 2009 | ||||
#2 grabbed the crimp for eternity +1 (best shot yet)
|
||||||||
32 | ★★★ The Singularity | 17m | The Pulpit (private land) | Sat 21st Mar 2009 | ||||
Alright! Crazy crux move done (twice). My hardest move on rock? Absolutely brutally mutant hard..
|