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Ascents as trad by Lee Cujes

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 936 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
28 Ozymandias (free version) - with Aaron Jones
1 23 25 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Wet, yuck. Both led.

2 28 52 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!

3 25 30 Aid

Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.

4 24 35 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.

5 22 30 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

All class. Fingerlock laybacks forever.

6 22 35 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.

7 19 15 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Diagonal jamming with no feet. A short pitch but I still ran out of gear.

8 14 20 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Definitely avoiding the chimney at all costs.

9 10 25 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes.

Trad 270m Mega Classic
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.

 
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 The Thin Line of Reprieve P1 - with Aaron Jones
1 Trad
Trad 38m Mega Classic
Accessed via 80m rap and swing. p1 onsight, then rapped and stripped the gear for Azza's flash. Really fantastic pitch of climbing. Rather than p2 which was wet and vegetated, climbed p2 of Charlie Don't Surf which was actually harder than p1.

 
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls
25 Echo Crack - with Aaron Jones
1 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Quite the minefield of lookout-launched trash to navigate on the way. Could be a good Clean Up Australia Day site.

2 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Scary and hard, I thought. Felt at least 22.

3 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Pitch was wet and slimy. Mega effort from Aaron to get it done with no crack gloves or tape, sliding out of the crack with bloodied hands. I somehow stayed on, all credit to the crack gloves. A few odd pieces, then 4x #2 camalots in a row, then all #3's to the belay.

4 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

The hardest I've worked for a pitch of climbing in a long time. I was peaking. Admittedly it was wet, but even in the dry I would have struggled. Cracks are not my thing, and there's no escape on this pitch. For me personally, this was only slightly easier (1 grade?) than the crux pitch. I used 6x #3 camalots, 2x equivalent-sized hexes, 2x #4 camalots and this was only just enough for my level of comfort (4m+ runouts). You need all the big gear to adequately protect the pitch - you cannot supplement with anything smaller anywhere on the pitch. If I did it again (I never will) I would take 10-12 #3 camalots.

A little safety note on the top-out: After clipping some carrots to stand on a ledge with a final 5m headwall to finish. This is protected by one carrot. If you only clipped this carrot (like me) and then fell on last moves topping out, the rope wouldn't even have a chance to take up before you broke both legs on the flat ledge below. Instead, there is a cam slot that is hard to see as it's in your handhold above your head. Roughly #1 camalot size. Use it! (I would strongly advocate the addition of a final bolt to mitigate a potential future catastrophe - you have just clipped 4 or 5 in a row, after all)

Trad 190m Average
Cracks are hard.

 
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Massif du Mont Blanc
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi South Face / Face Sud
6c Kohlmann - with Sammi, kevin Trad 200m Mega Classic
Epic alpine experience with a guide very late in the season, but we randomly nailed the weather and had a very memorable day. Huge pack with 2 sets of mountain boots made the cruxes touch and go. Climbed some of the shaded (frigid) pitches in gloves.

 
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
32 ~31 Whistling Kite - with Sammi, Erik Smits Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
So, so happy to come full circle this particular journey that has so much meaning because of Duncan and his role in my climbing and life. 10 days, but split by 17 years. So crazy. In this instance, the grade of the route has no meaning to me. But with few repeats it's probably important to at least contribute an opinion. Two of the seven previous ascentionists have suggested 31 for a pre-placed gear ascent. I'm happy enough to agree with that, noting that when this route is led placing the gear, which I see happening soon, I feel 32 is deserved. [19]

 
32 ~31 Whistling Kite - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
No wind at the cliff but at least dry. Almost fell off the start. Did fall on crux 2 and decided to throw out my beta for something new with one shot remaining. Didn't go to top. [18]

 
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
32 ~31 Whistling Kite — 2 attempts - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Overnight rain and drizzle in the morning. No wind. 85% humidity. Burn 1 shaky to ledge, fell on crux 2, then climbed from the bolt to the top clean in the worst conditions. Almost as proud of this effort as a clean send. - Burn 2 more confident. Fell crux 2, then for some reason my boots just started visibly sliding off the holds [17]

 
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
32 ~31 Whistling Kite — 2 attempts - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Hot, 15-17C and 65%. Zero breeze. 2x TR burns both with 1 fall at crux #2. Very good considering conditions. [15]

 
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
32 ~31 Whistling Kite — 2 attempts - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
Commencing the campaign. 2 working TR burns. [13]

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown
Crown Buttress
20 Jagusch Putsch Mixed trad 30m, 4 Good
Shoe testing session. I imagine this would be pretty gripping on lead.

 
23 Hotel du Lac Mixed trad 30m, 4 Average
Failed to do the crux despite many attempts, lol. Slabs.

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown
Deckout Buttress
21 Dick Whittington Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Shoe testing session.

 
Thu 18th May 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
28 ~29 Yesterday Direct Direct — 2 attempts - with @1293 Mixed trad 25m, 3
Mega. Techy and powerful in an old school style, and I didn't do one of the moves. If they said it was 30 that would seem fair to me.

 
26 Yesterday — 2 attempts - with @1293 Trad 27m Mega Classic
Big onsight fight which ended in utter exhaustion right below the crux. So destroyed. Was happy to pull it together next shot.

 
Thu 18th May 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress
21 Ethereal - with @1293, Gareth Llewellin Trad 20m Very Good
Classy Araps rock.

 
Wed 17th May 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
28 The Great Escape — 3 attempts - with @1293 Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
A nice mix of styles in a shady position. Not as many kneebars as I was hoping! 3rd shot.

 
Tue 16th May 2023 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
27 Hard FinaI Departure — 3 attempts - with @1293 Mixed trad 27m, 7 Classic
What a ripper. Mega quest up an imposing wall with a bouldery crux. 3rd shot.

 
Sun 14th May 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
20 R Dazed and Confused - with @1293 Trad 20m Good
Remembering how to place wires. Start was committing.

 
Sat 13th May 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
25 Spasm in a Chasm — 2 attempts - with @1293 Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
Failed the onsight, was pretty baffled by the traverse sequence. Fun and games trying to a) locate and b) place the wire in what is actually your handhold and isn't very obvious as a piece. I understand the history, but in the broader context of climbing, this is bizarre. I guess it makes it memorable!

 
Mon 1st May 2023 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
32 ~31 Whistling Kite - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
First time back on after 17 years. A bit of an exploration following Duncan's funeral to feel that connection again and consider if I want to commit further. [11]

 
Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag
13 Cave Climb - with Erik Smits Trad 50m Classic
Repeat with E

 
Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
32 Punks in the Gym - with Jake Bresnehan Mixed trad 30m, 7
Punks shot #2. Hot, face melting. Was mostly keen to experience the top section. Climbed clean to below the heel move, pulled through. Climbed from the rest and stuck the drive-by, couldn't stand up, then pulled through. Did the rest of moves, not nicely, with screaming skin. Then drive 11 hours home!

 
Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
32 Punks in the Gym - with Jake Bresnehan Mixed trad 30m, 7
1.5 hours dogging around, experiencing a piece of climbing history. Did all moves up to and including the birdbath drive-by. Struggled after, didn't really get stood up. Also struggled on the lower heel move, kinda managed it once. Toasted by the time I lowered off. A 20+ year dream to get on this route.

 
Thu 24th Mar 2022 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
22 Follow Your Nose Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area
15 El Dingle Mixed trad 54m, 3 Don't Bother
This was not the "climb with a pack on shortcut to the car" route I was hoping for. What was probably a fun jaunt in the 60s is just too dangerous by modern standards. And oddly, because of the few bolts, their positions and hugely weaving nature of the climbing, it's probably just as dangerous for the second as the leader.

 
Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area
16 The Spartan - with Sammi Mixed trad 50m, 4 Very Good
Interesting in part because you cannot see the business from the ground. The hidden offwidth was actually hard! If I was doing it again I'd wear socks and maybe an approach shoe on my left foot. Thank god for the #5 camalot I've been holding onto for 20 years and never using until now. The novel cord-slung chockstone belay could do with an upgrade to chain as it's only a matter of time before abrasion or sun gets the better of it.

 
Fri 3rd Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag
18 On Both Sides of the Glass Direct - with Sammi
1 18 30m lead by Lee Cujes
2 18 30m lead by Lee Cujes
Mixed trad 60m, 10 Very Good
The first pitch is a great arete feature. Tons of trad and 2 carrots. Crux bulge is tricky and pumpy. For the second pitch, the direct certainly seemed the more sensible option and I'm glad we took it. I wonder if many people hit the ledge falling off the start of p2 (especially on second with rope stretch)? Take a panic draw if you have one. I reckon you'd want to be confident climbing 22 on trad to jump on this one. We walked off (staying roped up for the first 30m) which was fine to get back to the Cave Climb abseil, or back to the car if this is your last climb of the day.

 
13 Cave Climb - with Sammi Trad 50m Classic
Fantastic and unique cave pitch, crawling into the depths of the earth. You can happily take and use all your large protection. Big cams #3 → #5, big hexes etc. Access is rap in (50m should be fine), climb out, so very convenient. Stay safe getting to the exposed abseil point.

 
Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area
9 Frolic - with Sammi Trad 13m Very Good
#11 hex, y'all!

 
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area
13 Charity - with Sammi Trad 14m Good
16 surely?

 
15 Hope - with Sammi Trad 15m Very Good
Nice one

 
15 15 R Chastity - with Sammi Trad 14m
Retreat! Retreat! Climbed in 1966 in concrete boots and wooden rope. In 2021 with modern gear, I backed off. And I'm alright with that.

 
Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area
21 The Janicepts - with Sammi Trad 27m Mega Classic
Man, that was great. Intimidating, glad to have finally done it. Filmed the POV, it's on YouTube. Onsight spolier.

 
18 Amen Corner - with Sammi Trad 30m Classic
Really cool, with the wide section being pretty heady (for those of us without #7 cams!). Calves were burning. There may have even been #calfspooge.

 
Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area
15 Tombstone Wall - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 3 Classic
A cool varied wandering adventure. The low mantle is quite tricky I thought! Don't land on the tree spike of death!

 
17 Flake Crack - with Sammi
1 17 15m
2 17 15m
3 23m
Trad 53m Classic
I'm surprised there's not more prangs on this. The layback is pretty slip-off-able and big cams aren't always the best things in the world. Having a couple of #4 camalots for the flake would be prudent rather than relying on one.

 
Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
15 The Carthaginian Trad 33m Very Good
Can't claim the onsight. Seconded this 19 years ago

 
Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall
19 Black Bart - with Sammi Mixed trad 25m, 7 Classic
Continually interesting and enjoyable from bottom to top.

 
13 Honey Dip - with Sammi Mixed trad 28m, 1 Mega Classic
This is the best easy pitch I've done in the Blue Mountains.

 
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall
16 Giggles - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 7 Classic
Classic! Just two cams (#1.5 and #2 friend).

 
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall
16 Dead Milkmen - with Sammi Mixed trad 15m, 1 Average
Lots of little wires. I tried to avoid stickclipping the only very high first carrot, but then backed off and stickclipped. Which was a bit of a mission in and of itself.

 
Mon 10th Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall
17 A Good Day to be a Duck - with Sammi Mixed trad 24m, 4 Good
Just on the bolts.

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup
Main Crags One For The Road
19 Fishing With Dynamite - with Sammi Mixed trad 24m, 6 Classic
Super interesting, engaging climbing all the way. Great!

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup
Main Crags Fat Chance Wall
20 Fat Chance - with Sammi Mixed trad 15m, 3 Classic
Done as a rather runout sport route. Great sequence!

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup
Main Crags Inner Space Wall
22 Stormbringer - with Sammi Mixed trad 20m, 3 Very Good
Lovely rounded sloper holds.

 
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Underworld
25 Gravel Rash - with Tom O'Halloran Trad 15m Good
Sometimes it feels like the onsight was really close. Not in this case. Would never have happened! Off-finger crack through a roof. Don't watch this video if you want to onsight it https://youtu.be/iVlE2a14xr0

 
Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter'
28 Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 Trad 30m Mega Classic
Send attempt - fell on the crux, came down.

 
28 Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 Trad 30m Mega Classic
Managed to hang on and get it done. Happy to do this one in a day. I wanted to climb it placing the gear, hence the ground up effort, but stripping such a steep route each time requires some serious motivation. Maybe one day, but for now I'm content. [3] Footage: https://youtu.be/UTzYm7htdu8

 
28 Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 Trad 30m Mega Classic
Attempted ground up. Definitely out of my comfort zone. Slipped out of the wet initial boulder and that was that. Then climbed from the ground to the crux (placing gear) and fell on the crux, unsurprisingly. Took some effort to unlock the crux move. Then to top, placing gear with a couple of rests. Was en route for well over an hour.

 
Sat 13th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
17 Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Sammi, Kris, Analissa Mixed trad 130m, 12 Very Good
Nice sneaker romp with friends.

 
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
21 Constrictor - with Sammi Mixed trad 18m, 3 Very Good
After botching it the other day and finishing up World Party, today climbed as intended.

 
27 26 Forked Tongue - with Sammi Mixed trad 25m, 8 Very Good
Was very confident but fell on the span again. Easy to bugger up!

 
27 26 Forked Tongue - with Sammi Mixed trad 25m, 8 Very Good
Obviously tricky (pointless?) to grade a reach dependent crux, but for me at 175cm of reach, this is worth 27. Climbed in one pitch via Anaconda p1. If you like stop-start routes, this'll be your jam. [3]

 
26 Jumping Viper - with Sammi Mixed trad 28m, 7 Very Good
Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.

 
Thu 4th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
22 Anaconda Pitch 1 - with Sammi Trad 17m Average
As part of Forked Tongue. That bolt is now something of a relic.

 
21 Constrictor into World Party - with Sammi Mixed trad 20m, 1 Classic
Done by many others previously as this is the obvious straight-up line of climbing. Well worth doing at this grade and gives a great introductory taste of proper Taipan climbing.

 
26 Forked Tongue - with Sammi Mixed trad 25m, 8 Very Good
Tried very hard to onsight - failed. Fell on the span. It's less technical than the Groovy span, but about the same distance. I had so much crap hanging off my harness. A #4 rock and #1.5 cam will do it. Fingers crossed for Saturday.

 
Wed 3rd Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
20 Atomic Tadpole - with Sammi Trad 40m Very Good
Cool to do something on this end of the wall. A really cool easier tradventure. Getting off was unexpectedly involved (soloing down into the chimney behind to eventually reach a rap station).

 
Mon 1st Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
23 23 R The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant - with Sammi Mixed trad 46m, 1 Classic
Full version including the pants filling traverse.

 
Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
21 Sirocco Pitch 1 - with Kris Hampton Mixed trad 20m, 1 Average
17 years between drinks on this one. Pretty desperate really. Especially when wet.

 
23 The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 - with Sammi Trad 20m Classic
12 years since I last climbed this. I was bolder back then.

 
Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
19 18 Apron Strings Trad 32m Very Good
Really enjoyed this. Plenty of gear and enjoyable the whole way.

 
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
20 Torrential - with Duncan Trad 25m Average
Trad. What you can do with a bung finger.

 
21 Middle Finger - with Duncan Trad 25m Average
Nah, it’s the ring. A bit spicy getting around the roof, as evidenced by the dude who took two massive whippers attempting.

 
24 M4 Thumbs Up - with Duncan
1 24 25m
2 M4 27m
3 15 40m
Trad 92m Average
p1 only. Snapped a hold and started falling, looked down and saw trad, and found another gear - overdrive.

 
Sat 29th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge
25 Samarkand - with @1293
1 23 15 lead by @1293
2 25 35 lead by Lee Cujes
3 23 20 lead by @1293
4 22 35 lead by Lee Cujes
5 22 20 lead by @1293
Trad 130m Classic
I led the even pitches and Aaron the odd and even better — all onsight, a no falls day. . It was pretty close for me on the crux pitch as I happened to run out of the cams I needed for the crux section at the 30m mark. I placed some pretty junky gear and hesitated for a long time, hanging off a jug on an overhang before finally committing to the overhung off-finger-sized crack. In full sport climbing mode I laybacked up it, got one working fingerlock and swung out of the layback (and almost off completely) before latching a jug with some desperation. It was exciting! . Fun morning with a great (ever psyched) friend and back home in time for lunch. Very pleased to have finally done this one, and keen for more

 
Fri 14th Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
14 Joseph - with Lee Cujes Trad 46m Very Good
Repeat.

 
18 The Eternity - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner Trad 22m Classic
Repeat after 17 years. This was magic today.

 
17 Psychopath - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner Trad 28m Classic
Mucho hand jamming. Repeat - apparently!

 
Sat 16th Apr 2016 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
21 Not All There - with Sammi Trad 25m Very Good
Repeating for the extension.

 
Sat 5th Mar 2016 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander
24 Waylander - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Scott Boladeras Trad 38m Classic
Trad crack - gear was in. One fall down low, then flashed the rest.

 
Tue 7th Jul 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall
24 Land of Green Navels - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner Mixed trad 30m, 10 Good
Took a cam this time and was much happier. Still a tricky proposition up the top. [2]

 
Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area
23 Radios Appear - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
Three bolts and lots of trad. Haven't done anything like this for a while and if this was any harder I would have been flying.

 
21 Spangled Drongo - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner Mixed trad 20m, 5 Average
Thin crux 5 grades harder than the rest.

 
18 Sparrow - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner Mixed trad 18m, 4 Classic
Nicest route of the day. Enjoyable and consistent all the way.

 
Thu 28th May 2015 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall
24 Land of Green Navels - with Sammi Mixed trad 30m, 10
Thought this was Golliwog Grades. Wondered why there was a 8-10m runout. Fell in the horrible, sandy, wet mini-corner above the fixed carabiner beneath the small roof up top.

 
Wed 23rd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
23 Last Man Standing Mixed trad 25m, 5 Very Good
Don't be so hard on yourself Monty - this route is as good as any of the others. Nor does it feel squeezed in to me. I notice people are avoiding the grade 23 finish by going right to the anchors on SS Minnow.

 
27 Permissability Mixed trad 30m, 2 Very Good
Well well well! Hats off to Duncan Hunter. This thing is nails! I took some swooping falls onto cams and had one rip out. Did all moves up to last bolt, but got shut down on the bodylength of climbing to top this beast out.

 
17 Grey Mist Trad 30m Mega Classic
I like to do this route once every 11 years. See you again in 2025.

 
Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
26 Seamstress Trad 30m Very Good
Blitzed off on a #1 wire on my first shot, a few metres shy of the top.

 
26 Seamstress Trad 30m Very Good
A searing, white, marble seam which splits off the old classic Windjammer, at half height. I preplaced the gear (tiny wires) like the first ascent team. It's certainly doable placing the gear, and doable to onsight - for a trad gun

 
16 Man Overboard Trad 26m Classic
This old beast of a corner climbs sooo much better than it looks. Wow, super cool.

 
Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Centurion Area
22 Titan I Am Mixed trad 25m, 10 Classic
Carter photoshoot on this today. Climbed the business about 30 times The pics look amazing, you'll see.

 
Sat 19th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
21 Not All There Trad 25m Very Good
This was really nice, not the best to warm up on as the start is quite hard.

 
19 Windjammer Trad 30m Very Good
Big wide crack action to finish the day. I felt bearded.

 
Fri 18th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
19 Icebird Trad 30m Classic
Big trad action. Climbs so nicely for a trad route. Tons of big wires. Gets a bit old school up top.

 
Sat 8th Feb 2014 - Urbenville
Vesuvius
23 Blowing Smoke Trad 25m Classic
FFA. Placed all gear on lead. This was great, but as the only gear route at the cliff I don't imagine anyone will repeat it any time soon.

 
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Centurion Area
22 Titan I Am Mixed trad 25m, 10 Classic
Finally! Super duper good, but I'm biased

 
Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area
26 Eviction Order - with Duncan Mixed trad 15m, 3 Very Good
Brushed, chalked, pre-placed, 10mm dynabolts tightened up. Then sent packing.

 
Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Centurion Area
21 Australia's Hardest Climb - with Sam Mixed trad 15m, 4 Average
Maybe I'll make the news!

 
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
20 Tenere Trad 28m Very Good
Better than it looks from the ground. I'm no crack climber, as the blood will now attest.

 
24 Barracouta - with Erik Mixed trad 30m, 4 Classic
This was an old dog from years ago. Super insanely happy to NOT fall off the top. Ended up dynoing off tiny monos to the clifftop and just stuck it.

 
24 Hate Mail - with Neil Mixed trad 25m, 5 Classic
A Monty route, climbed with Monty. Some of the best rock around up high, pretty impressive. You have to jam a cam in a critical pod which is your handhold which I actually thought was cool. Don't be put off by the rusty U-bolts, they're fine. Needs some stainless mallions added to anchor.

 
16 15 to 16 Beside the Seaside (She sells sea shells (pitch 3)) - with Johnny Mixed trad 40m, 2 Don't Bother
"You'll be fine Sam! It's a 40m sport route. Take 20 quickdraws!" Actual bolt count = 2.

 
Tue 13th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan
Summit Caves
28 Massive Attack - with JJ Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
FFA. Freed this old project of Gareth & Adam's (thanks guys!) A few bits of trad to get to the roof, drop rope, then use second rope to climb the rest (all bolts). We removed all sharp edges so it's ready to go. Climbing might be ~27, but it's pretty adventurous and I doubt it'll get repeated anytime soon - unfortunately! [4]

 
Sun 4th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan
Carborundum Wall
21 Every Day I Start To Ooze - with JJ Mixed trad 18m, 4 Average
Slime and filth.

 
23 Liquid Skin - with JJ Mixed trad 18m, 5 Average
Start was a vomitorium. You're lucky if you get to climb this dry I think. Overall, a bit weird.

 
Fri 26th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge
Lower Gorge Region Long Wall
5.10a Rock Wars - with Sam Trad 24m Mega Classic
Super fingercrack flake which has been worn smooth by 20+ years of constant traffic. So glorious. Van Halen climbed this.

 
5.11b B3 - with Sam Trad 30m Classic
Hardest I worked all day. Pretty epic trad route given 5 stars. Only 1 usable cam for the first 15m. Climbing high twenties sport routes is surely the key to being able to JUST get up something like this

 
5.9 Autumn - with Sam Trad 24m Classic
Very cool handcrack flake, but I only had one handcrack-sized cam. Channel the inner Honnold.

 

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