Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | ||||||
28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
Aaron Jones
2
28
52
lead by
Lee Cujes
Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!
3
25
30
Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.
4
24
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.
6
22
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.
9
10
25
lead by
Lee Cujes
I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes. | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.
|
||||||
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve P1
- with
Aaron Jones
1
| 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Accessed via 80m rap and swing. p1 onsight, then rapped and stripped the gear for Azza's flash. Really fantastic pitch of climbing. Rather than p2 which was wet and vegetated, climbed p2 of Charlie Don't Surf which was actually harder than p1.
|
||||||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
25 |
Crack glove
★★★ Echo Crack
- with
Aaron Jones
1
lead by
Aaron Jones
Quite the minefield of lookout-launched trash to navigate on the way. Could be a good Clean Up Australia Day site.
3
lead by
Aaron Jones
Pitch was wet and slimy. Mega effort from Aaron to get it done with no crack gloves or tape, sliding out of the crack with bloodied hands. I somehow stayed on, all credit to the crack gloves. A few odd pieces, then 4x #2 camalots in a row, then all #3's to the belay.
4
lead by
Lee Cujes
The hardest I've worked for a pitch of climbing in a long time. I was peaking. Admittedly it was wet, but even in the dry I would have struggled. Cracks are not my thing, and there's no escape on this pitch. For me personally, this was only slightly easier (1 grade?) than the crux pitch. I used 6x #3 camalots, 2x equivalent-sized hexes, 2x #4 camalots and this was only just enough for my level of comfort (4m+ runouts). You need all the big gear to adequately protect the pitch - you cannot supplement with anything smaller anywhere on the pitch. If I did it again (I never will) I would take 10-12 #3 camalots. A little safety note on the top-out: After clipping some carrots to stand on a ledge with a final 5m headwall to finish. This is protected by one carrot. If you only clipped this carrot (like me) and then fell on last moves topping out, the rope wouldn't even have a chance to take up before you broke both legs on the flat ledge below. Instead, there is a cam slot that is hard to see as it's in your handhold above your head. Roughly #1 camalot size. Use it! (I would strongly advocate the addition of a final bolt to mitigate a potential future catastrophe - you have just clipped 4 or 5 in a row, after all) | 190m | Average | |||
Cracks are hard.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Massif du Mont Blanc | ||||||
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi South Face / Face Sud | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Kohlmann - with Sammi, kevin | 200m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Epic alpine experience with a guide very late in the season, but we randomly nailed the weather and had a very memorable day. Huge pack with 2 sets of mountain boots made the cruxes touch and go. Climbed some of the shaded (frigid) pitches in gloves.
|
||||||
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite - with Sammi, Erik Smits | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So, so happy to come full circle this particular journey that has so much meaning because of Duncan and his role in my climbing and life. 10 days, but split by 17 years. So crazy. In this instance, the grade of the route has no meaning to me. But with few repeats it's probably important to at least contribute an opinion. Two of the seven previous ascentionists have suggested 31 for a pre-placed gear ascent. I'm happy enough to agree with that, noting that when this route is led placing the gear, which I see happening soon, I feel 32 is deserved. [19]
|
||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
No wind at the cliff but at least dry. Almost fell off the start. Did fall on crux 2 and decided to throw out my beta for something new with one shot remaining. Didn't go to top. [18]
|
||||||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite — 2 attempts - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Overnight rain and drizzle in the morning. No wind. 85% humidity. Burn 1 shaky to ledge, fell on crux 2, then climbed from the bolt to the top clean in the worst conditions. Almost as proud of this effort as a clean send.
- Burn 2 more confident. Fell crux 2, then for some reason my boots just started visibly sliding off the holds [17]
|
||||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite — 2 attempts - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hot, 15-17C and 65%. Zero breeze. 2x TR burns both with 1 fall at crux #2. Very good considering conditions. [15]
|
||||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite — 2 attempts - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Commencing the campaign. 2 working TR burns. [13]
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Crown Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Shoe testing session. I imagine this would be pretty gripping on lead.
|
||||||
23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | Average | |||
Failed to do the crux despite many attempts, lol. Slabs.
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dick Whittington | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Shoe testing session.
|
||||||
Thu 18th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
28 ~29 | ★★ Yesterday Direct Direct — 2 attempts - with @1293 | 25m, 3 | ||||
Mega. Techy and powerful in an old school style, and I didn't do one of the moves. If they said it was 30 that would seem fair to me.
|
||||||
26 | ★★★ Yesterday — 2 attempts - with @1293 | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Big onsight fight which ended in utter exhaustion right below the crux. So destroyed. Was happy to pull it together next shot.
|
||||||
Thu 18th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal - with @1293, Gareth Llewellin | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classy Araps rock.
|
||||||
Wed 17th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape — 3 attempts - with @1293 | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice mix of styles in a shady position. Not as many kneebars as I was hoping! 3rd shot.
|
||||||
Tue 16th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure — 3 attempts - with @1293 | 27m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a ripper. Mega quest up an imposing wall with a bouldery crux. 3rd shot.
|
||||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused - with @1293 | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Remembering how to place wires. Start was committing.
|
||||||
Sat 13th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm — 2 attempts - with @1293 | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Failed the onsight, was pretty baffled by the traverse sequence. Fun and games trying to a) locate and b) place the wire in what is actually your handhold and isn't very obvious as a piece. I understand the history, but in the broader context of climbing, this is bizarre. I guess it makes it memorable!
|
||||||
Mon 1st May 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First time back on after 17 years. A bit of an exploration following Duncan's funeral to feel that connection again and consider if I want to commit further. [11]
|
||||||
Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb - with Erik Smits | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat with E
|
||||||
Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - with Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | ||||
Punks shot #2. Hot, face melting. Was mostly keen to experience the top section. Climbed clean to below the heel move, pulled through. Climbed from the rest and stuck the drive-by, couldn't stand up, then pulled through. Did the rest of moves, not nicely, with screaming skin. Then drive 11 hours home!
|
||||||
Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - with Jake Bresnehan | 30m, 7 | ||||
1.5 hours dogging around, experiencing a piece of climbing history. Did all moves up to and including the birdbath drive-by. Struggled after, didn't really get stood up. Also struggled on the lower heel move, kinda managed it once. Toasted by the time I lowered off. A 20+ year dream to get on this route.
|
||||||
Thu 24th Mar 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Follow Your Nose | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
15 | ★ El Dingle | 54m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
This was not the "climb with a pack on shortcut to the car" route I was hoping for. What was probably a fun jaunt in the 60s is just too dangerous by modern standards. And oddly, because of the few bolts, their positions and hugely weaving nature of the climbing, it's probably just as dangerous for the second as the leader.
|
||||||
Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Sammi | 50m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting in part because you cannot see the business from the ground. The hidden offwidth was actually hard! If I was doing it again I'd wear socks and maybe an approach shoe on my left foot. Thank god for the #5 camalot I've been holding onto for 20 years and never using until now. The novel cord-slung chockstone belay could do with an upgrade to chain as it's only a matter of time before abrasion or sun gets the better of it.
|
||||||
Fri 3rd Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass Direct - with Sammi | 60m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first pitch is a great arete feature. Tons of trad and 2 carrots. Crux bulge is tricky and pumpy. For the second pitch, the direct certainly seemed the more sensible option and I'm glad we took it. I wonder if many people hit the ledge falling off the start of p2 (especially on second with rope stretch)? Take a panic draw if you have one. I reckon you'd want to be confident climbing 22 on trad to jump on this one. We walked off (staying roped up for the first 30m) which was fine to get back to the Cave Climb abseil, or back to the car if this is your last climb of the day.
|
||||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb - with Sammi | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic and unique cave pitch, crawling into the depths of the earth. You can happily take and use all your large protection. Big cams #3 → #5, big hexes etc. Access is rap in (50m should be fine), climb out, so very convenient. Stay safe getting to the exposed abseil point.
|
||||||
Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
9 | ★ Frolic - with Sammi | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
#11 hex, y'all!
|
||||||
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Charity - with Sammi | 14m | ★ Good | |||
16 surely?
|
||||||
15 | ★★ Hope - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice one
|
||||||
15 15 R | ★ Chastity - with Sammi | 14m | ||||
Retreat! Retreat! Climbed in 1966 in concrete boots and wooden rope. In 2021 with modern gear, I backed off. And I'm alright with that.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - with Sammi | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Man, that was great. Intimidating, glad to have finally done it. Filmed the POV, it's on YouTube. Onsight spolier.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner - with Sammi | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool, with the wide section being pretty heady (for those of us without #7 cams!). Calves were burning. There may have even been #calfspooge.
|
||||||
Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall - with Sammi | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A cool varied wandering adventure. The low mantle is quite tricky I thought! Don't land on the tree spike of death!
|
||||||
17 |
★★★ Flake Crack
- with
Sammi
1
17
15m
2
17
15m
3
23m
| 53m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm surprised there's not more prangs on this. The layback is pretty slip-off-able and big cams aren't always the best things in the world. Having a couple of #4 camalots for the flake would be prudent rather than relying on one.
|
||||||
Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't claim the onsight. Seconded this 19 years ago
|
||||||
Sun 11th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart - with Sammi | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Continually interesting and enjoyable from bottom to top.
|
||||||
13 | ★★★ Honey Dip - with Sammi | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is the best easy pitch I've done in the Blue Mountains.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Giggles - with Sammi | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic! Just two cams (#1.5 and #2 friend).
|
||||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dead Milkmen - with Sammi | 15m, 1 | Average | |||
Lots of little wires. I tried to avoid stickclipping the only very high first carrot, but then backed off and stickclipped. Which was a bit of a mission in and of itself.
|
||||||
Mon 10th Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ A Good Day to be a Duck - with Sammi | 24m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Just on the bolts.
|
||||||
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags One For The Road | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Fishing With Dynamite - with Sammi | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super interesting, engaging climbing all the way. Great!
|
||||||
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Fat Chance Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Fat Chance - with Sammi | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Done as a rather runout sport route. Great sequence!
|
||||||
Sat 18th May 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Inner Space Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Stormbringer - with Sammi | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely rounded sloper holds.
|
||||||
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 | ★★ Gravel Rash - with Tom O'Halloran | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sometimes it feels like the onsight was really close. Not in this case. Would never have happened! Off-finger crack through a roof. Don't watch this video if you want to onsight it https://youtu.be/iVlE2a14xr0
|
||||||
Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Send attempt - fell on the crux, came down.
|
||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Managed to hang on and get it done. Happy to do this one in a day. I wanted to climb it placing the gear, hence the ground up effort, but stripping such a steep route each time requires some serious motivation. Maybe one day, but for now I'm content. [3] Footage: https://youtu.be/UTzYm7htdu8
|
||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Attempted ground up. Definitely out of my comfort zone. Slipped out of the wet initial boulder and that was that. Then climbed from the ground to the crux (placing gear) and fell on the crux, unsurprisingly. Took some effort to unlock the crux move. Then to top, placing gear with a couple of rests. Was en route for well over an hour.
|
||||||
Sat 13th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Sammi, Kris, Analissa | 130m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice sneaker romp with friends.
|
||||||
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
21 | ★ Constrictor - with Sammi | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
After botching it the other day and finishing up World Party, today climbed as intended.
|
||||||
27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was very confident but fell on the span again. Easy to bugger up!
|
||||||
27 26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Obviously tricky (pointless?) to grade a reach dependent crux, but for me at 175cm of reach, this is worth 27. Climbed in one pitch via Anaconda p1. If you like stop-start routes, this'll be your jam. [3]
|
||||||
26 | ★★ Jumping Viper - with Sammi | 28m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried the dyno about 20 times. Latched the hold on a few occasions but didn't manage to control the swing. Ankles still sore. Onsighted the rest.
|
||||||
Thu 4th Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
22 | Anaconda Pitch 1 - with Sammi | 17m | Average | |||
As part of Forked Tongue. That bolt is now something of a relic.
|
||||||
21 | ★★★ Constrictor into World Party - with Sammi | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Done by many others previously as this is the obvious straight-up line of climbing. Well worth doing at this grade and gives a great introductory taste of proper Taipan climbing.
|
||||||
26 | ★★ Forked Tongue - with Sammi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried very hard to onsight - failed. Fell on the span. It's less technical than the Groovy span, but about the same distance. I had so much crap hanging off my harness. A #4 rock and #1.5 cam will do it. Fingers crossed for Saturday.
|
||||||
Wed 3rd Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
20 | ★★ Atomic Tadpole - with Sammi | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool to do something on this end of the wall. A really cool easier tradventure. Getting off was unexpectedly involved (soloing down into the chimney behind to eventually reach a rap station).
|
||||||
Mon 1st Apr 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
23 23 R | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant - with Sammi | 46m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Full version including the pants filling traverse.
|
||||||
Sun 31st Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sirocco Pitch 1 - with Kris Hampton | 20m, 1 | Average | |||
17 years between drinks on this one. Pretty desperate really. Especially when wet.
|
||||||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 - with Sammi | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
12 years since I last climbed this. I was bolder back then.
|
||||||
Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Apron Strings | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this. Plenty of gear and enjoyable the whole way.
|
||||||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
20 | ★ Torrential - with Duncan | 25m | Average | |||
Trad. What you can do with a bung finger.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Middle Finger - with Duncan | 25m | Average | |||
Nah, it’s the ring. A bit spicy getting around the roof, as evidenced by the dude who took two massive whippers attempting.
|
||||||
24 M4 |
★ Thumbs Up
- with
Duncan
1
24
25m
2
M4
27m
3
15
40m
| 92m | Average | |||
p1 only. Snapped a hold and started falling, looked down and saw trad, and found another gear - overdrive.
|
||||||
Sat 29th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Samarkand - with @1293 | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I led the even pitches and Aaron the odd and even better — all onsight, a no falls day.
.
It was pretty close for me on the crux pitch as I happened to run out of the cams I needed for the crux section at the 30m mark. I placed some pretty junky gear and hesitated for a long time, hanging off a jug on an overhang before finally committing to the overhung off-finger-sized crack. In full sport climbing mode I laybacked up it, got one working fingerlock and swung out of the layback (and almost off completely) before latching a jug with some desperation. It was exciting!
.
Fun morning with a great (ever psyched) friend and back home in time for lunch. Very pleased to have finally done this one, and keen for more
|
||||||
Fri 14th Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - with Lee Cujes | 46m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat after 17 years. This was magic today.
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mucho hand jamming. Repeat - apparently!
|
||||||
Sat 16th Apr 2016 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Not All There - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeating for the extension.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Mar 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
24 | ★★ Waylander - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Scott Boladeras | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Trad crack - gear was in. One fall down low, then flashed the rest.
|
||||||
Tue 7th Jul 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Took a cam this time and was much happier. Still a tricky proposition up the top. [2]
|
||||||
Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Radios Appear - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three bolts and lots of trad. Haven't done anything like this for a while and if this was any harder I would have been flying.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Spangled Drongo - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Thin crux 5 grades harder than the rest.
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18 | ★ Sparrow - with Sammi, Erik Smits, Kathryn Gardner | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nicest route of the day. Enjoyable and consistent all the way.
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Thu 28th May 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels - with Sammi | 30m, 10 | ||||
Thought this was Golliwog Grades. Wondered why there was a 8-10m runout. Fell in the horrible, sandy, wet mini-corner above the fixed carabiner beneath the small roof up top.
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Wed 23rd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Last Man Standing | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Don't be so hard on yourself Monty - this route is as good as any of the others. Nor does it feel squeezed in to me. I notice people are avoiding the grade 23 finish by going right to the anchors on SS Minnow.
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27 | ★★ Permissability | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well well well! Hats off to Duncan Hunter. This thing is nails! I took some swooping falls onto cams and had one rip out. Did all moves up to last bolt, but got shut down on the bodylength of climbing to top this beast out.
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17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I like to do this route once every 11 years. See you again in 2025.
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Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Seamstress | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Blitzed off on a #1 wire on my first shot, a few metres shy of the top.
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26 | ★★ Seamstress | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A searing, white, marble seam which splits off the old classic Windjammer, at half height. I preplaced the gear (tiny wires) like the first ascent team. It's certainly doable placing the gear, and doable to onsight - for a trad gun
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16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This old beast of a corner climbs sooo much better than it looks. Wow, super cool.
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Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Carter photoshoot on this today. Climbed the business about 30 times The pics look amazing, you'll see.
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Sat 19th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Not All There | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was really nice, not the best to warm up on as the start is quite hard.
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19 | ★★ Windjammer | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Big wide crack action to finish the day. I felt bearded.
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Fri 18th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icebird | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Big trad action. Climbs so nicely for a trad route. Tons of big wires. Gets a bit old school up top.
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Sat 8th Feb 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Blowing Smoke | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Placed all gear on lead. This was great, but as the only gear route at the cliff I don't imagine anyone will repeat it any time soon.
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally! Super duper good, but I'm biased
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Eviction Order - with Duncan | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brushed, chalked, pre-placed, 10mm dynabolts tightened up. Then sent packing.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Australia's Hardest Climb - with Sam | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Maybe I'll make the news!
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tenere | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than it looks from the ground. I'm no crack climber, as the blood will now attest.
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24 | ★★ Barracouta - with Erik | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This was an old dog from years ago. Super insanely happy to NOT fall off the top. Ended up dynoing off tiny monos to the clifftop and just stuck it.
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24 | ★★ Hate Mail - with Neil | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A Monty route, climbed with Monty. Some of the best rock around up high, pretty impressive. You have to jam a cam in a critical pod which is your handhold which I actually thought was cool. Don't be put off by the rusty U-bolts, they're fine. Needs some stainless mallions added to anchor.
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16 15 to 16 | ★ Beside the Seaside (She sells sea shells (pitch 3)) - with Johnny | 40m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
"You'll be fine Sam! It's a 40m sport route. Take 20 quickdraws!" Actual bolt count = 2.
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Tue 13th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Massive Attack - with JJ | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Freed this old project of Gareth & Adam's (thanks guys!) A few bits of trad to get to the roof, drop rope, then use second rope to climb the rest (all bolts). We removed all sharp edges so it's ready to go. Climbing might be ~27, but it's pretty adventurous and I doubt it'll get repeated anytime soon - unfortunately! [4]
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Sun 4th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
21 | Every Day I Start To Ooze - with JJ | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Slime and filth.
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23 | Liquid Skin - with JJ | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Start was a vomitorium. You're lucky if you get to climb this dry I think. Overall, a bit weird.
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Fri 26th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Lower Gorge Region Long Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars - with Sam | 24m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super fingercrack flake which has been worn smooth by 20+ years of constant traffic. So glorious. Van Halen climbed this.
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5.11b | ★★★ B3 - with Sam | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hardest I worked all day. Pretty epic trad route given 5 stars. Only 1 usable cam for the first 15m. Climbing high twenties sport routes is surely the key to being able to JUST get up something like this
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5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with Sam | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very cool handcrack flake, but I only had one handcrack-sized cam. Channel the inner Honnold.
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