Ignore if you wish to go for the complete onsight.
Read on if you wish for bit more safety...
Small cam and C3 00/Metolius Offset 0 protect up to the roof. Good old style BD 4 or reasonable DMM in slot in corner of roof, equalised with WC 0 offset in roof... Optional Black Totem around the roof to left. Climb through the roof.
Medium wire and small cam in corner crack above roof. WC Offset 2.5 or maybe a similar Metolius/Totem in strange pocket to right. Traverse right a few metres to below crux. Good Red DMM, not Totem, in horizontal that uses the best part of the hold, and/or small wires/ micro cams in thin horizontal above. This is the crux gear here, and has been fallen on...
Climb through crux. Optional Red Totem after the crux but could cause problems if being seconded. Yellow to Silver DMMs should cover the rest. Belay, Purple to Yellow Totems.
Tie in to both ends of a rope (or two ropes) and use one for first section only. Clip second rope into black Totem (if used) and the good gear in crack above roof. Find rest with knee bar assist and untie first rope then climb on. This manoeuvre avoids rope drag across lip of roof. You could also solo up the face to the left, traverse over and place/pre-clip this gear to pre-protect the start if that fits your ethics.. YMMV.
My trad ascent back in the day was with a rest before the crux, 24M0. Good luck, stay solid, make sure your gear is good, have fun and try not to break your ankles... Cheers...
Seconded Zac on the true first 'ground-up ledge to ledge' ascent as 'This Is Your Brain On Crack'. The 'working title' we took from a message from Mike Law (which was sent as a challenge to numerous people stating it was cleaned and ready to climb)
Had to take a 'rest' whilst cleaning gear (which is often harder than placing it) but we were climbing it as a really long pitch without the artificial belay that was later added...
Great climbing, not too hard, but a bit tricky...
Rope solo of the initial steep section to suss out the gear... As expected, from the first viewing of this route before it got bolted, there is heaps with various options...
Can place a whole rack of Totems (plus a bomber #3) so I cannot see why this should have ever been bolted ...
- with
Zac
Ignore if you wish to go for the complete onsight.
Read on if you wish for bit more safety...
Small cam and C3 00/Metolius Offset 0 protect up to the roof. Good old style BD 4 or reasonable DMM in slot in corner of roof, equalised with WC 0 offset in roof... Optional Black Totem around the roof to left. Climb through the roof.
Medium wire and small cam in corner crack above roof. WC Offset 2.5 or maybe a similar Metolius/Totem in strange pocket to right. Traverse right a few metres to below crux. Good Red DMM, not Totem, in horizontal that uses the best part of the hold, and/or small wires/ micro cams in thin horizontal above. This is the crux gear here, and has been fallen on...
Climb through crux. Optional Red Totem after the crux but could cause problems if being seconded. Yellow to Silver DMMs should cover the rest. Belay, Purple to Yellow Totems.
Tie in to both ends of a rope (or two ropes) and use one for first section only. Clip second rope into black Totem (if used) and the good gear in crack above roof. Find rest with knee bar assist and untie first rope then climb on. This manoeuvre avoids rope drag across lip of roof. You could also solo up the face to the left, traverse over and place/pre-clip this gear to pre-protect the start if that fits your ethics.. YMMV.
My trad ascent back in the day was with a rest before the crux, 24M0. Good luck, stay solid, make sure your gear is good, have fun and try not to break your ankles... Cheers...