Ascents as trad by Marco de Jongh

Finally got on it, probably should have waited till later in the trip as found it quite terrifying.

Grabbing gabbies gear

Spicy first climb of the trip, took a whip at the layback because I man'ed to the glory jugs that turned out not to be jugs 😂

Finally got on it! So much fun!! Glad I saved it till now, would be scary for the inexperienced

Impresed with how much this crack had dried out in the 48hrs since I last climbed it.

Cant remember the last time I thrutched this much!

Some of the highlights: Got all the cams I needed stuck between myself and the crack, desperately downclimbed, moved gear, then realised my knee was stuck, started to panic as I didnt bring my rusty victorinox knife to help relieve me of my knee but then I realised it was actually quite a comfy way to rest.

Slightly more rested I managed to wiggle my knee free, did the rest of the offwidth again. Made it to the handjams 3m from the top, but tired me could not get the jams to work resulting in me yelling take after which I nearly puked. After some rest and placing 5 nuts "just in case" I made it to the top where I finally met the legendary Nikhilesh Sharma hence the somewhat longer than usual tick.

12/10 cant wait to go again.

Bonus: 1 cam proved hard to retrieve, so I got to climb the offwidth & handcrack again as a topropesolo, amazing how much easier it is if you can just ignore placing gear and instead climb the face. Then got my microtraxion stuck in the crack(yes while it was belaying me) which added even more excitement to my day....

Thought I still had unfinished business with this "14", But just checking the crag I've learned that I had already redeemed myself and that 3 years ago I also thought it was a 14.

Also, now I know why they say not to crack climb after rain, god was this climb wet, mossy and spoogey.

Felt much easier than the last time I tried it 3 years ago. Mega classic route, so good!

Amnesia onsight?

Get to rickety kate, must be out of crack practice as this felt scary & hard

First frog 20 🥳, and an old demon slain.

Took down low because I climbed myself into a bit of trouble by being too eager to reach the first ledge. Upon taking, my .3 skated all the way to the edge but thankfully it held, good I didn't whip on it 😅.

Down climbed and stripped gear, for a very desperate but clean send on the 2nd go. Would have been nice to have triples of .5 and .75, spent ages trying to figure out gear for the last .75 size section of thr climb, but nothing else fit and I had wisely not brought any big nuts. After nearly trembling off I placed a shitty .4 for emotional support and blasted to the finish ledge.

Good fun finally getting to lead 1 of my favourite routes!

Also not a great route to climb in the rain, very soapy holds and the gear is a bit thin at the start making it all more spicier than I would like. But didn't weight the rope(didn't dare lol) so guess I can still come back to onsight it

Never took so many whips on gear. Thought this would be okay in the rain I was wrong, the jugs in the roof felt like they were made of soap. Also, tried climbing the wrong flake at first and probably shouldnt have placed gear in it either.

But I still feel accomplished and hope to try it again next week when it's dry.

Fun climb, surprisingly pumpy

Traverse of first pitch was surprisingly pumpy, but route mellows out a lot afterwards. P2 is a bit average, but P3 is a lot of fun making it all worthwhile.

P2 does have quite a lot of loose rocks by Arapiles standards

Lead both pitches, had originally tried to link them but was worried of the drag in the overhanging part of p2. After having done it, really should have linked, after the overhang of p2 its all grade 10? Climbing to the anchor so drag be damned.

Surprisingly good climb deserves more than the 1 star the book gives it. The cruxes are just really cool!

Deserves an extra star, but also a grade or 2 and another 15m

Took me a couple of tries to figure out the start, and still nearly peeled off, onsighted the rest. What an amazing route! I keep getting on 3 star classics thinking to myself this must be the best route I've ever climbed, only to have my mind blown by the next one yet again

Really fun & sporty crux at the end, pretty bomber gear for the final crux so didnt feel too heady. Belaying the second was a bit akward, ended up in hanging belay.

Felt much easier than Saturday, a very worthy alternative to Tannin

Didn't expect this to feel so much easier the 2nd time on. Awesome climbing, really nice flow after the boulder-y start

Very fun & flowy for an "access climb"

Not my best day, got mega scared and took ages to commit to the moves

Start sequence & gear quite hard to onsight, the rest of the climb is a bit easier.

Pretty thin & scary leading to the roof, had some commitment issues above small nuts. Roof itself was super fun and reasonably uneventful

Gabby did an excellent job leading P1 as her first trad 17.

Had done this before, but for the life of me couldn't remember P2. Until I pulled around and got a good view of the traverse, and the memories of my sheer terror even on second came flooding back.

The traverse felt a lot easier despite climbing into a trap, but god was it hard getting established into the chimney.

Led p1 which was alright. Gabby accidentally climbed into P2 of D Major.

Got nearly as scared on this as 2.5 years ago, but only half as pumped 💪

Such a fun adventure! Got a little bit confused route finding at P1, looking for the sport anchor to the left is probably what I should have done from the beginning. P2 felt much easier than my memory, P3 still seemed intimidating but wish it was longer.

Somehow managed to lose my sandal at the start of P3, but luckily it dropped all the way to the ground landing 10m to the side of the rapel landing spot.

Cleaning up an old dog, felt significantly easier than 2 years ago

Gabby linked it all, I seconded to retrieve and critque gear.

Definitely need to get used to placing nuts again

Last day in Tassie, psyched to still manage to get on this classic! Sooooo good, lost the send at the very end by doing something silly sportclimbery at the top twin cracks instead of just fingerjamming... oh well, definitely will be back next year

What a fun route! Nice and varied

Very fun done as 1 pitch. My rope 80m rope was at the middle mark when I started belaying my second up, so wonder where the last 30ms went? Still a fun & long feeling climb nonetheless

Good climbing! Climbed on gear placed by Jim because I was daunted by the grade, but it would actually be pretty chill to protect myself since the crux is bolted

We only climbed pitch 2 because pitch 3 is shockingly mossy, so we jumarred up from the ledge, definitely wouldn't want to lead that. Pitch 1 doesn't exist on the sarvo or guidebook so most likely also isn't of great quality either.

The suggested rack in the guidebook will definitely add to the comedy of this route. Jim (a much stronger crack climber than I'll ever be) climbed it on a quad rack and had to take in-order to lower and retrieve gear. Having at least 6x of .75, 1, 2 and 3 would be much saner. Definitely can't place a #4, so bringing 3 of those seems like needless extra weight. Doubles of #.5 and a .4 to finish it off.

Having borrowed some extra cams from Jim, I decided to have a lead go, about 15m up I realised I was way too gassed already from the sustained jamming that I wasn't going to be able to onsight this. Since Claire was frothing to have a lead go as well and we wouldn't have time for 2 leads I decided to lower off and let her have a go too. Big mistake on my part as I hadn't brought my belay jacket down, and ended up freezing my ass off while belaying, lessons were learned. With the excessive amount of cams I brought, I would have easily been able to dog my way up and stay warm in the process.

Maybe I'm biased because I don't love splitter cracks, but I wouldn't say this is a crack classic that deserves to be mentioned in the same list as Eternity, Infinity or Janicepts. The movement is very repetitive for the middle 30m, and only gets interesting in the first 10m and last 10m

This was really fun!

The 20 part is amazing fun etc, a million stars. The 22 part is contrived, awful and just not fun at all.

Think we did the variant pitch 1 and 16 pitch 2. Pretty loose and thought provoking in places

Fun outing but a bit loose in places! be careful pulling on anything in the cracks, there was a big super chalked up block that I tried pulling on which made it start moving.

Did it in 2 pitches, onsighted pitch 1 and also top roped pitch 1 because our friend fell on a ledge and we had to check if they were okay

Pfew what an adventure, hit the deck on my onsight attempt when I took on a nut at the start that pulled out sideways. Little bit shaken decided to top rope it. Felt pretty doable and gear was solid so figured I'd give it another redpoint burn.

2nd redpoint go I had completely forgotten about my jamming beta, so I hung onto the good fingerlock for ages figuring out where to go. Despite my trepidations at the start I managed to make it through only to came off above the sentry box because I had forgotten where to go.

3rd go, I found good sport climber beta through the start only using 1 fingerlock and laybacking the rest. This attempt was thwarted by a foot slip getting into the sentry box, the gear held but I did land on my feet back on the ground.

With daylight fading, I decided to quickly have a 4th go with the first 3 pieces still in. This go I made it to the top but does make it a pink point. When my butt is less sore from the ground fall I'll have to go back for the proper clean red point.

But hey, with 3 falls on gear in 1 day I've definitely accomplished my "Learn to fall on gear" trip goal