Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Hilton | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Mon General - with Pawel | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool technical wall with fun climbing to finish.
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6b+ | ★★ Fried Brit - with Pawel | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice tufa climbing.
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Hangover | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Schwitzerland - with Pawel | 19m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice to flash this one. Nice moves.
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6c | ★★ Fat Doobies - with Pawel | 19m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★ Russell's Angelheart - with Pawel | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm up
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Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Worldtrip | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Kickapoo - with Pawel | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard moves up the blunt tufa that took some work. Right foot crucial. Awesome climb.
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Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Weiße Wand | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Nubbel - with Pawel | 35m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★★ Whiplash - with Pawel | 36m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome climb. 2 hard sections then pumpy finish.
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6c+ | ★★★ Unbreakable - with Pawel | 41m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supercool climb with an interesting crux.
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Canyon Canyon Right | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Super Meat Boy - with Pawel | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool rock nice warm up.
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Worldtrip | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Mr. Keo - with Pawel | 31m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome climb. Cool moves up tufa then more good climbing to finish. So close to the flash.
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Worldtrip | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Mr. Ku - with Pawel | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supercool tufa questing.
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Open All Hours | ||||||
7a | ★★ L4 One Of The Best - with Pawel | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to figure out the moves up the headwall. Crucial left foot then high left hand. Nice technical climbing on good rock.
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6b+ | ★ Wee Dram - with Pawel | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Ok route
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6a+ | ★★ 100% Special - with Pawel | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Climbs ok
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Partymeile | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Acid Therapy - with Pawel | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard work getting into and out of tufa. Right knee helps. Lovely climb.
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6c+ | ★★ Joy Juice - with Pawel | 14m, 8 | ||||
Ok once worked the moves out. Nice climbing.
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6b Hard | ★★ Drei Umdrehungen - with Pawel | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard 6b for warm up. Nice route.
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Fri 19th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Roof Right Side | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Jungle King - with Pawel | 34m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worked moves in the morning and came back later in the day to send. Hard move to clip first bolt on 7b section then good kneebar (L then double). One more kneebar in the last hole helped keep it together for the finish. Supercool climbing.
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Thu 18th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Canyon Canyon Left | ||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★★ Pac Man - with Pawel | 36m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard start then nice jug hauling.
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Tue 16th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Open All Hours | ||||||
7b | ★★ Smooth and Melon - with Pawel | 36m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good moves but some dirty holds. Second go once worked out the crux. Pumpy top section.
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7a+ Easy | ★★★ True Manhood - with Pawel | 34m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool long route maybe not that hard.
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6b+ | ★★★ From Dusk Till Dawn - with Pawel | 32m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool moves up the groove
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Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Botanical Garden | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Good Life, Good Karma - with Pawel | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★ Morning Glory - with Pawel | 25m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Open All Hours | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Sharknado - with Pawel | 28m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route.
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Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
Hangover | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Sintersizer - with Pawel | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climbing on good rock
|
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7a | ★★★ Stalker - with Pawel | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool. Belay from top of slab. Steady jug hauling.
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Wed 10th Jan 2024 - Railay | ||||||
The Keep | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Babo Does Thailand - with Pawel | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route. Fun tufa to start then balancy and long move on jugs to finish.
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Wed 10th Jan 2024 - Railay | ||||||
Thaiwand Wall | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Sluggard Prince - with Pawel | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice bridging on to the hanging tufa
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6b+ | ★★ Getting to know youu - with Pawel | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Realy cool
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6b | ★★ Mala Mujer - with Pawel | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool fun route
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6c |
★★★ Equatorial P1
- with
Pawel
1
6c
35m
| 35m, 19 | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 only really cool engaging route
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Wed 10th Jan 2024 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Stalagasaurus - with Pawel | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Cool tufas
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Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6b | ★★ Boobtube - with Pawel | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice 3d climbing
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6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke - with Pawel | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not bad....no hard moves.
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Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Oliver Stone | ||||||
23 | ★★ Find The Positive - with Martin | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really cool. Fine once you know what to do. Interesting rock and moves.
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Mon 18th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
22 Hard | ★★ Blow - with Pawel | 10m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some hard moves off the ground and another mini crux above. Cool route.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
26 | ★★ Caramel Sluice - with Pawel | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supercool route with a tricky crux. 2nd go 2nd session. I went direct at the crux instead of right. As good as its neighbour to the left.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
24 | ★★ Body Blow | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool little route. Steep, big moves and permadraws....what's not to like.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Railway Cliff | ||||||
25 ~24 | ★★★ Traction Thrash - with Marty | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 - not the easiest 24
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
24 | ★★ Ten No Trumps - with Pawel | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky hard move but the rest very straightforward. Cool route.
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
24 | ★★ Rhubarb Crumble - with Ferrand | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route wih a slightly gymnastic crux.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Trix Roughly - with Ola | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second proper session and 4th in total over about a year. Very cool route that has some stiff moves off the crimps. Managed to link from the crimps to the top last weekend but couldn't link from the ground.
Today could go from ground to start of the traverse on 1st go then ran out of juice. Next go got through the trav by the skin of my teeth, and a few power screams and some cut fingers got me to the top this time.
Changing my sequence on the crimps from RL to LR helped a lot (thank you Tracy H vid) as this sets up better for the jump to the jug.
Slight R toe drag and toe hook helped for the move above to the undercling. Top heel is fine if you use a R toe directly under on a good edge.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★★ Strawberry Blonde - with Ola | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs quite well once figured out. A few long moves on good holds.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Railway Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★ Cicatrix - with Pawel | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supercool route with a powerful crux down low then cruisy jug hauling with a thought provoking finish. 25 seems about right. First go after putting draws in to the top top.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Kizashi - with Rahn Laird | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd or 4th session over a few years so nice to finish it off after getting close in April. First go after putting the draws in and went quite comfortably. Key was a foot jam in the crack to get the left pocket, then using the left undercling and good foot placement above. Supercool route.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Time Slips By - with Pawel | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool route, climbs really well. Feels like a 24/25 into a tricky crux so 26 seems about right. Took 2 sessions and got it second go today after reworking the crux beta to avoid an uneccessary step left.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Supercallousfragileextradosage - with Ferrand | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supercal is supercool Second proper session apart from a play 7 yrs ago. Wasn't sure how it would go but got the crux figured out quickly (stayed more left) and figured out the hand matches for the top. First go in the full sun after putting the clips in. Managed to clip the draw I was told to skip but felt ok matching the crimp rail and clipping. Made sure I got it all back at the double knee bar and top felt fine.
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Devils Circus | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Mr Redeemer - with Borja, Pawel, Ferrand | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First Oz 27. Took 6 visits over 12 months. Super rad route, cool moves, nothing too hard but putting it all together was a challenge. Made progress on each session with new high points and reduced from 3 to 2 to 1 sit.
Managed to do this slightly quicker than WOAF and used some good beta on the crux so can't see this being 28. Boulder-wise prob nothing harder than V3 (maaaaaybe the crux is V4 depending on sequence) but there is a lot of it Very althetic moves all the way, that get slightly easier over time, although the start became more confusing?? (hint keep both heels on). Cool balance between maintaining body tension and cutting loose efficiently on the bottom half. I avoided the nasty crimps on the crux by going direct in to the undercling. My method used a high R heel on the jug to get started then bump L from the wierd pocket up into the undercling (RF on blind ticked hold and high LF) but there are other ways possible. This is powerful but avoids the worst holds and in the end I just had to stick with a sequence rather than chop and change. Marginal kneebar (no pad) under the jug helped with recovery before the crux. Helps to extend some of the fixed draws in the middle section to improve the clipping positions. |
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Gateway | ||||||
24 | ★ The Amateur - with Martin | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Fairly contrived but kind of ok. Helps to extend the draws in the middle where it steepens rather than clip mid-move. Back jump/climb to clean.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Egg | ||||||
24 | ★★ Red Demon - with Pawel | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice to clean up an old dog from a few years ago. Super cool move and takes some figuring out. Not the easiest 24 out there.
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
24 Hard | ★★★ Vertical Dementia - with Ola | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good to finally tick after 7-8 years since first trying. Second go after putting the draws in on a cool but still day. Great moves but definitely not the easiest 24. Never felt like I could relax, even after the crux. Pump management required for getting through the top half.
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★ Critters - with Ola | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route second go after os attempt. Not too bad once figured out. Top climbs nicer than it looks with continuously interesting moves to the finish.
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Grand Junction - with Pawel | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route, 2nd go after going bolt to bolt and a one-sitter. First Oz 26 in a day. Interesting moves all the way. At the crux crimp rail I used the tiny intermediate instead of spanning, then the L gaston and R into pocket before the break. Made the most of the rest in the setting sun for the top. Cool moves up the flake then big span from jug to jug for the finish.
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Cheap Dive - with Stan | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
23 in the guide and solid for that grade. Nice to onsight this one. Powerful moves getting to the arete then okay. Really cool
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Shakes and Flakes Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes - with Stan | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reall cool route, nice rock and moves
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Sadhu Rum - with Stan | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Some delicate features. OK
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Bronze Orange Bug - with pawel | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route and very worthwhile. 3 distinct hard sections down low then cruisy scoopiness above. Hardish move off ground that is ok with the right feet, then the rooflet took some figuring out, then tough R crimp off the sloper match above. Came in above, put the draws in and worked on gri-gri then sent next go.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
26 M0 | ★★★ The Way of All Flesh M0 - with Pawel, Ola | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Started working in Jan and 7 sessions later have finally sent it. The most work i have put into a 26/7b+. Quite a progression, first do the traverse, then clip the draw, then touch the teacup, then hold the teacup etc. This route will get you fit . Stuffed around a bit trying to find a rest before the traverse then gave up and milked the double heels below. Definitely needed to up my taping game to make it slightly more skin friendly.
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Guillotine - with Pawel | 48m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Have done the firt pitch a few times over the years but never the extension. Went ok but is quite pumpy at the end. Some cool moves and a bit hard to read on the last section (tried left, ended going right on some spiky holds). Nice and looooong.
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ Wedding Bell Blues - with Pawel | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool moves. One of the harder 23s here maybe.
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24 | ★★ Fuck Cancer - with Pawel | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route. Hard to read so second go.
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Paint God - with Pawel | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route. Tricky move to the face (i went feet first to make the R gaston less brutal) then a pumpy headwall. Couldn't feel my fingers so glad I stuck the final crimp move. 2nd go after putting the draws in and an onsight lob off the headwall a few weeks earlier.
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Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Sensory Overload - with Ola | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun jug hauling with a bit of a sting in the tail
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
22 | ★★ Eucalyptus (Link-up) - with Borja | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Not sure if done before but ok warmup. Needs a bolt in the middle of the traverse in order to avoid silly drag or runouts.
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Sun 5th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Off the Lip - with Zac | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Never really considered it but not bad. As good if not better than Nev. Cool steep fun moves on the top section.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ A Most Profligate Sinner - with Pawel | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route. Interesting move to get the flake then jugs. Amazing rock on top section. Didn't bother with kneebar since at that point it's just a few moves to the rest in the alcove.
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
24 | ★ I Don't Climb I Wobble - with Borja | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice enough but took some working out. I figured a short person way coming in left from the rest at the top that avoids a bit of a reach
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Madge McDonald - with Ola | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally !! First tried 2010 and had a few goes over the years. Second go today after pumping off the last move. Sneaky but painful kneebar in the scoop helps recover from the starting moves. Had to put up a bit of a fight to stick the last holds so nice to get it done.
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
25 Easy | ★★ George, King of the Jungle - with Rahn Laird | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
To the anchor but not the top top which I am advised is the current preferred method. Really cool and my first Oz 25/7b onsight. Draws in which helped. I managed to stick the jump above the cave and didn't use the R H slopey stuff at all. Some tricky moves above but not too bad.
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Cavity Search - with Ola | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd session and second go of the day after hanging the draws. Nice to get this one done and with a bit of R foot beta the crux became surprising doable. Then it is just managing the pump. Feels solid for the grade and definitely worthwhile.
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup - with Pawel | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route and first Oz 26/7b+. Had a play a few months ago and did today 2nd go. Didn't feel that confident bolt to bolt because it's super pumpy and the crux flake move seemed tricky but resting and recovering where possible made it ok. Felt good on the cliffhanger move on the horn then a semi kneebar helped for the moves off. Sun was in my eyes for the top moves but just held on. Definitely a grade harder than reality.
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Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grape Hour - with Martin | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got halfway about 5 years ago so nice to finish in a session. Went bolt to bolt after falling off the bottom then got back on next go. Needed more time to sort the bottom worked that then got next go. The bottom is a bit sharp and painful but just managed to stick it. The move over the bulge was fine esp with a long draw and the top was exciting with a growing pump. Cool varied route with some nice moves, feels pretty solid for the grade.
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★ Hilti's not Guilty - with Ferrand | 16m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second shot after putting the draws in (after a first attempt a few weeks back). Really cool route with fairly stiff crux. Left knee scum and pad made it fairly comfortable. Took some working out to get it properly wired.
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Lower Zap | ||||||
22 | ★★ Foo Foo the Cordless Draw Monkey - with Stan | 20m | ||||
Nice enough but a bit broken up. Hardish for 22.
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25 | ★★★ High Tension - with Stan | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Done as warm up putting in the draws after 2 goes 5 and 10 years ago. Plenty of good rests but a cruxy jump (for me) move down low from the ok left edge and a solid sequence to access and leave the flake above. Top section is ok with a left heel but take some thought before the final jug. Classic of the grade and lots of good climbing and positions....awesome
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 ~25 | ★★ Taxi Driver - with Stan | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What's wrong with the guidebook grade (25). I could onsight driven but not this or Swinging so made sense. Also thought I would sneak in my 10th 25 of the year with this tick Second go after working the lip - R drop knee seemed to get it done comfortably enough.
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25 | ★★ Swinging In The Rain | 20m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second go after putting the draws in after trying earlier in the year. OK once you work out what to do with your feet. Reaaly cool roofing and nice top section.
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
23 | ★★ Smoko - with Pawel, Stan | 35m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard move up the thin crack, strenuous up the flake then eases off. Cool route.
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25 | ★★★ The Life of Riley - with Pawel, Stan | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a bolt to bolt go in March and did first go after sussing the crux while placing the draws on abseil. Went fairly smoothly. Tried the R gaston into the crux flake but decided instead to use a R sidepull and L on the flake. Plenty of good rests before and after, nice airy finish.
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
24 | ★★ Snappy Dresser - with pawel, borja | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit of beta for the top helped (hint bump left) but a bit technical after a powerful start. Maybe slightly harder than wet paint.
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24 | ★★ Wet Paint - with pawel, borja | 16m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool route and felt pretty comfortable. Left side pull and up to the undercut instead of using the nasty crimps.
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
22 | ★ Dead Man Walking - with pawel, borja | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Have done before....good warm up.
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25 | ★★ Kathy K - with pawel, borja | 16m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second go after putting the draws in. Went comfortably once I worked out the sequence. Felt good going a bit left on the traverse to get the "tooth", then match on an intermediate instead of the long powerful way. Cool moves all the way. My 25th 25/7b apparently
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Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Sant Llorenç de Montgai | ||||||
Xinxetes & Clasificado | ||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★★ Un quart de tres (Un quart de tres L1) - with Borja | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Left side of wall. Fairly sustained with a few tricky sections.
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6c 7a | ★★ Mes Barat (Mes Barat L1) - with Borja | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Left side of wall. Some cool moves good warm up.
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Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Collegats | ||||||
La pedrera | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Arnalda - with borja | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second go after putting the draws in. Nice route with a bit of everything. Cool kneebar rest after some pimpybtufa then a thought provoking finish.
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Mon 24th Oct 2022 - Margalef | ||||||
Culample4 | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Fanatic - with borja | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quite hard and powerful. A lot of work to get to the crux which took a few power screams to get through. Having draws on and extended here helps. 2nd go.
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Fri 21st Oct 2022 - Montserrat | ||||||
Vermell del Xincarró La cova de l'Arcada | ||||||
7a | ★★ Eh! Petrel | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Nice to onsight this after a few warm ups to get used to the style. Pretty consistent climbing. Cool rock and moves.
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Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Collegats | ||||||
La pedrera | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Fleck - with pawel, borja | 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Suuuper cool route. Second go after getting close to the top onsight. Some techy sequences but good rests where you need. Cool moves and rock.
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7a | ★★★ Talibans Go Home - with pawel and borja | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard 7a to onsight. Managed second go ok. Cool route.
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Tue 18th Oct 2022 - Tres Ponts | ||||||
Fontanella | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Aixopluc - with pawel and borja | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route up middle of wall. Maybe not 6c+
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6c | ★★ El Choricillo - with pawel and borja | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Maybe harder than 6c
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6c+ | ★★★ Diedre Panoramic - with pawel and borja | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Memorable route. Maybe not 6c+
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6b | ★★ Dr Jano - with pawel and borja | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice warm up
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6b+ | ★★ Aimflipping - with pawel and borja | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm up
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Fígols (Organyà) | ||||||
Cova de les Gralles | ||||||
6c | ★★ Catalina L1 - with pawel and borja | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm up
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7b | ★★★ Clasica - with pawel, borja | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2nd shot after putting the draws in. Surprised by a bird coming out of the anchor hole mid crux. Amaaaazing route and very pumpy if you don’t have a good sequence. Crux at end so need a bit in reserve. I went left but more direct may be possible. A few important but comfortable kneebars at several points.
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Thu 13th Oct 2022 - Sadernes | ||||||
Cingle de la cova del bisbe | ||||||
7a+ 7b+ | ★★ Destroyer - with pawel and borja | 43m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch only. Super cool and not the easiest 7a+ here.
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