Showing all 6 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.12b | ★★★ 奇异 Singularity | 26m, 9 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Oct 2022 | |||
Really enjoyed this climb. worked the route 2 times on day one to get the beta, then came back a few days later and got it on my 2nd red point attempt. The crux was about half way up the route and felt like a v5? boulder. the gaston with the small edge wouldn't work with my fat fingers so I eventually found I could use a shitty pinch to get through, once I worked that out I was home free. (To me it still felt potentially hard for the grade with some very polished feet...)
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7b | ★★ Quarks (Quartz) | 13m, 3 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Feb 2020 | |||
Worked the moves for two days and then this morning it just kinda clicked on the upper part of the crux so then just lowered and got it first attempt from the bottom.
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5.12b | ★★ Route Makers, Heart Breakers | 22m, 13 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | Sun 30th Oct 2022 | ||||
Worked it once and then took two red point attempts to get it. Super chill until it heads into a big move up to the right followed by a few moves on tiny super sharp crimps.
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5.12b | ★★ 泓渊 Deep pool — 3 attempts | 16m, 7 | 新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Feb 2023 | |||
Sharp two finger pocket was a killer in the crux. I found a high left heel hook onto the jug where your left hand sat made it relatively easy to move up.
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5.12b | ★★★ Hongkong Team (Hongkong Team 香港队) | 31m, 16 | 南宁 Nanning | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | |||
Rested overnight and came back and knocked it over. Really happy with this climb the difficulty is all in the 3rd 4th and 5th draw after that it eases off and just more of an endurance slog. high high high up the wall.
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7b | ★★★ License To Climb — 3 attempts | 25m, 13 | Vịnh Lan Hạ | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th May 2023 | |||
Was disappointed to not send this route but our group just got cooked off the wall. First up I missed the top rope flash by about 1 meter during the warm up and it was looking like it would go down very fast but then the sun came over the the top of the cliff and there was no shade to hide in. We suspect that it must have been close to 40C at the base of the cliff and the wall got so hot that I could not rest my body against the wall on the two red point attempts and yet it was still one of the most beautiful 5 star climbs I have ever tried and is calling my name to come back...the view alone was worth 5 stars but the climb was possibly even better, and what made it great was that the climb really built slowly meaning that the less experienced climbers in our group could still get in 10-15m of amazing climbing.
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Showing all 6 ascents.