Ascents as sport by mivi

I knew from last time that going left towards the end is a bad idea and yet I almost did it again - it looks so promising...

Primary difficulty is finding solid, clean rock.

Nicer than the left variation

Seems a much more logical line to me using the arete on the left, but then it is a 7 at most.

Took me four attempts to figure out the start. So many bad holds with a few decent ones hidden inbetween.

Needed one more go to warm up and remember all of the beta. Clipping the anchor remains the crux. Fell the second I had it clipped.

Seems tough for a 8-, but considering the length and that it only gets hard after the first bolt, that's probably fair.

Mostly juggier than it looks but also pretty polished and a somewhat committing crux.

Lost the redpoint to not being able to clip the anchor.

Had to work it once more to improve my beta from last time. Holds even more painful than I remembered them to be

I get the alpine part, the stemming in the upper part was almost fun. But 6a?!

When you can already see the maillon in the last bolt before the anchor you would expect the difficulties right there, but I didn't find a beta to even get to the bolt with the maillon?! Escaped by crossing over into Hilti Hilti.

Harder than Minimi

The polish didn't help but it wasn't the main issue either.

Weird variation

6+ in Bayerische Alpen 1. Seems hard for that, but might be fair if you know the sequence for the first bulge.

In the second part half the holds are loose, but someone was kind enough to mark most

The 4c is right at the first bolt. Easier afterwards.

Nice. Felt exposed. Crux came earlier than I expected it to. Polished footholds still held.

Very nice despite the abundant polish.

Burly start, then easier more technical middle section, and then burly again towards the anchor. At least I think so. I wasn't willing to risk a fall into these ancient bolts and carefully retreated from the maillon.

Nice and fluid except for pigeon shit ledge which can be avoided for the most part.

There are several rocks towards the end that sound hollow and/or are a bit wobbly. If the largest one dislodges, a helmet is not going to save the belayer. But given the amount of chalk on it, I guess it's secure. Still didn't pull too hard on it

Difficult bulge at the start. Gets easier (and nicer to climb) afterwards.

Remembered the important bits of beta from last time. Pretty doable if you don't mess around too long anywhere.

Wasn't willing to trust the bad foot during the onsight. You can go pretty far left when the slab starts almost into the neighboring 5c, but then getting back it's very hard to see the feet so not sure this really makes it easier in summary. Bad feet almost until the end from there on.

My excuse for not giving it a second try is the sun coming in

I certainly wasn't dancing here. Although my legs did some crazy moves during the crux... Likely harder if you aren't as tall.

First bolt is fairly far 'off route', I'd recommend a clip stick. The initial rock is crumbly as well. Gets better after the start. Not the greatest route to clean.