Ascents as trad by Niko Eltarenko

Got told it was all sport - Got into the zone - counted 3 hangars and 20m of climbing. Not sport

Was going to place a really good hex at the start but I climbed up to the ledge with no protection to place a piece bellow my feet retrospectively. Then placed a couple more pieces higher up began laybacking; almost at the mid point of the crack I slip and find myself at the bottom mere cm away from the ledge, my forearm has unfortunately hit a boulder next to it and started turning all sorts of interesting colours. Then with no warning the crag is a waterfall. I'm drenched within seconds.

Do this!

Exposure level = Mega Classic. Photoescue level = Mega Classic. Climb = Yeah; it's alright. A constant ledge roof didn't appeal to me much. The super hot weather and roasting sun did not help one bit.

Yeah; its good. Not the "two stars" kind of good though. Jump on the asteroid instead

Seriously good. 3 stars for sure. The dinosaur route doesn't deserve any though

Went up this like a mountain goat in stilettos. Intricately and confidently. Good gear and perhaps the best I have ever lead a trad route. Flows beautifully.

Went for the direct roof variant to spice things up a bit.

I have been on 21's that have been easier than this. Excellent climbing and onsighted it with some effort on preplaced draws but 19 this aint.

This route has seen more traffic than the M5. Deserves to be upgraded by one to two points for degradation and polish. Still mega rad; never thought I'd say that about a dirty slab.

Yeah; what the comments say. If it were Sydney sandstone none of the footers would have held me.

In retrospect; considering how badly wounded my both hands were I should have probably not done this as a "warm down".

Loooong moves on sharp as hell rock that ripped my ring finger to shreds and given me 3 flappers. Still; worth it. Roger Austin

Worked out the start moves from top rope. Tricky sequence that once figured out is very doable. Can be made a lot harder if you're in incorrect body position. After figuring out the moves lead this puppy for the lead FA (will not claim it as this problem has been done as a highball before bolting). Be careful up the top, there is only one u-bolt and thus a real potential for a ground fall if you don't use a cam.

My favourite climb here.

Second warm up, much of the same.