Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 9th Nov 2020 - Val-David | |||||
Mont Condor The needle | |||||
5.2 5.2 X |
★★ Cheminée
![]() Linked the chimney with the second pitch of "Aiguille". Very nice climbing. The first half of the chimney can actually be decently protected. | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 9th Nov 2020 - Val-David | |||||
Mont Condor Right of the needle | |||||
5.8 |
★★ Michael Ward
![]() | ||||
5.10c |
★★ Face Directe Directe
![]() | 3 | |||
Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||
Home Cliff | |||||
5.11a |
★ Direttissisma
![]() Still feels hard even after all those years! One try to find the holds and moves, one try to send it! | 5 | |||
5.7 |
★★★ Peggy
![]() This was my first real trad lead, felt good to come back and climb it. | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.7 |
★★ Piton Highway
![]() | 25m, 2 | |||
Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Mont Baldy | |||||
Mur Principal | |||||
5.13a |
★★★ Ulysse
![]() Worked all of the moves again. Had to find a new sequence around the crux. Managed to get through the run out slabby end this time though. | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Mont Baldy | |||||
Secteur Grenouillage | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Miss Baldy
![]() Good finger warmup | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sun 25th Oct 2020 - Weir | |||||
Adagio | |||||
5.12c |
Biorythme
![]() Flashed up to the first crux with Étienne's beta. Worked the roof moves a little and bailed at the clip after the roof. Mentally exhausting. Hopefully, I can get back on it soon. | ||||
5.8 |
★★ Adagio
![]() Very nice climb. Took the alternate first pitch. Last pitch is not that great. Would rappel after the 3rd next time.
1
5.7
80m
2
5.6
3
5.6
4
5.8
| 80m | |||
Sun 25th Oct 2020 - Weir | |||||
Black and White/Club Sandwich | |||||
5.12a |
★★ L'Epee de Damocles
![]() Worked on the first four bolts. Didn't like how most of the climbing was done on the left side of the arete while it is bolted on the right. Bailed on the fourth. | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Oct 2020 - Kamouraska | |||||
Amphithéatre | |||||
5.6 |
★★ Dominique Goineau
![]() Way better than the 5.6 classic on the right in my opinion. | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Kamouraska | |||||
Amphithéatre | |||||
5.11b |
★★★ Moby dick
![]() Still a classic! | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
5.12a |
★★ Pierre volante
![]() Took 3 tries. Big committing moves on jugs. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.11a |
★★ Complicité
![]() | 20m, 7 | |||
5.6 |
★ La princesse des neurones
![]() | 15m, 6 | |||
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Kamouraska | |||||
Amphithéatre | |||||
5.10a |
★★ Petite vite
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.11b |
★ Double menton
![]() Went around left at the first roof. I don't know if it would go straight. Took 2 falls at the second roof. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Sans foi ni loi
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||
5.11a |
★★★ Prestation aérienne
![]() Started raining when I took off. Took a fall 3/4 of the way up. | 20m, 7 | |||
Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
Mont du Gros Bras | |||||
5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
![]() A great "adventurous" climb. Route finding is tricky but ultimately all leads to easier climbing. Did the 5.8 variant at the end.
1
5.8
230m
2
5.6
3
5.5
4
5.7
5
5.8
6
5.4
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||
5.6 5.6 G |
★★ L'initiation
![]() Little slower this time: 23m31s | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||
5.7 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
![]() 49m Last pitch needs its bolt back... | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.7 |
★★★ Voie de Rappel
![]() 46m Way better climb than the name suggests! | 150m | |||
5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
![]() 1h03m
1
5.6
120m
2
5.7
3
5.6
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.8 |
★ Patinoire
![]() Last pitch is not worth it. If it had a bolted anchor it would be. Bushwacking through the trees is a pain and overpowers the joy of the first few moves of the pitch. | 150m | |||
Fri 25th Sep 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||
5.6 5.6 G |
★★ L'initiation
![]() Another quick run up this climb. New record: 18m25s | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||
5.8 |
★ L'attente
![]() | 35m, 3 | ★ Good | ||
5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
![]() Great route. First pitch is probably the nicest crack in the area. Second and third are good too. On the last pitch, when you get to a big detached block, look left for the anchor. Going up will get you stuck!
1
5.6
120m
2
5.7
3
5.6
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||
5.6 5.6 G |
★★ L'initiation
![]() Simul climbed in one pitch with Étienne at night. 34m52s base to top. | 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Mont Baldy | |||||
Mur Principal | |||||
5.13a |
★★★ Ulysse
![]() First attempt: Spent 40 mins working the moves up to the bolt after the crux. Didn't find the right sequence in the the thin face/slab at the end. Second attempt: Fell at the first bolt, got back on right away, linked to the move before the roof. Got back on straight away but didn't pull the crux. Definitely can be done. Beautiful route, offers many beta options depending on height and preferred style! | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Mont Baldy | |||||
Secteur Grenouillage | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Miss Baldy
![]() Nice technical moves but quite reachy. | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||
5.11b |
★ Apyrexie
![]() Diserves more stars! The opening sequence is not given but very nice. The rest is just cnady! | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Tantalus Range Alpha Mountain | |||||
AD |
★★ East Ridge
![]() Traversed the river via the cable. Hiked up to the lake on 27th. Summited and hiked back to the lake on 28th. Hiked back down and traversed back on 29th. Mostly route finding around and across snow slopes to scrambling and two pitches of roped climbing. Good rock. Then scrambling to the top. Lost the hike down the trail and ended up doing two raps (60m and 30m). P1 (5.8) Onsight. 30m. 1 fixed pin to bolted anchor. P2 (5.7) Onsight. 8m. Bolted anchor. | 450m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Val-David | |||||
Mont King Impériale | |||||
5.10d |
★★ Symbiose
![]() | 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||
5.8 |
★★★ Sceptre
![]() Did the 5.10d straight finish. | ||||
5.10a |
★★ Éclipse
![]() | 5 | |||
Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
Mont de l'ours | |||||
5.8 |
Pinocchio
![]() The first few moves are wonderful (through the chimney) then ok climbing to a bolted anchor. To climb in three pitches: Keep climbing and build a gear anchor below the obvious crack with a nose (pinocchio). Second pitch is great and rejoins the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours' Didn't climb the last pitch, having just come down from 'La Directe de l'ours'
1
5.8
135m
2
5.8
| 140m | |||
5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
![]() Had done the first half and ended up off route last time. Managed to not get lost this time! Last pitch is simply wonderful. | 150m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sat 22nd Aug 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||
5.6 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
![]() Tricky route finding! Especially P2! Pretty consistent at the grade. Technical moves feel like 5.8 but the angle brings it back down to 5.6 One chopped bolt at the last move of P4 feels like it should of stayed. | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sat 22nd Aug 2020 - Parc national des Grands-Jardins | |||||
le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||
5.7 |
★★ L'initiation
![]() Link pitches! With a 70m:
Lots of opportunity for protection everywhere. Climb where you want!
3
5.4
8
5.4
9
5.4
10
5.4
| 170m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Thu 13th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron Squamish Buttress | |||||
5.10c |
★★★ The Squamish Buttress
![]() Linked St. Vitus into Memorial crack into Squamish buttress Linked P1-2 easily. rope stretch with 60m Linked P3-4 The crux pitch got me. worth bringing an extra .4 or .5
7
5.6
| 210m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Thu 13th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Memorial Crack
![]() Anchor the belayer to protect the start. Just in case. Crux is the tricky slippery stemming near the start. | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Thu 13th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | |||||
5.9 |
★★ St. Bernard p1
![]() Way more fun than the original pitch to access baseline ledge. | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||
5.9 |
★★★ St. Vitus' Dance
![]() Very fun. Sustained at the grade. Bring large cams
1
5.7
2
5.8
linkup St, bernard P1
3
5.8
4
5.9
5
5.9
6
5.5
| 150m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Wed 12th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Free and Easy | |||||
5.10b |
★★ Free and Easy
![]() one tricky move. It's all about the feet! | 13m | |||
5.11b |
Protein Eater
![]() Didn't unlock the sequence straight through. Apparently using the right side wall is off. | ||||
5.8 |
★★ Insta-Graham
![]() | 15m | |||
5.8 |
★★ Dance Eat Sleep
![]() | 17m | |||
Tue 11th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron Central Apron | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Snake
![]() Decent climb wandering between other climbs. Route finding involved. The best pitches are the last three. Crux was the last few moves of P4. It's also on that climb that I leaned SR means standard rack and not single rack. And Squamish SR is a few more cams than a single rack... Made it interesting.
1
5.7
220m
2
5.7
6
5.7
| 220m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 10th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | |||||
5.10a |
★★★ The Zip
![]() Now open. I don't know how to remove the tag though | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Sat 8th Aug 2020 - Slesse Creek | |||||
Lower Road Side Wall | |||||
5.12a |
★ Im Allowed To Be This Way
![]() Took a fall at first and 3rd bolt. Good climbing, sharp holds. | 12m | ★ Good | ||
5.10a |
Night Crawler
![]() | ||||
5.10c |
★★★ All Black Crotch Rocket
![]() Worth it all the way! | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron Squamish Buttress | |||||
5.9 |
★★★ The Squamish Buttress (The Squamish Buttress Linkup the butt light)
![]() Linked 'Banana Peel' into 'Bommstick Crack' into 'Squamish Buttress' into 'The Butt Light'. 6h up, 1h30 down. Approach shoes all the way. Linked 1+2, 3+4, then did a short scramble pitch to base of butt light (5.9). From there, I ran a long pitch to a tree just below the 5.8 chimney.
7
5.6
linkup the butt light
| 210m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | |||||
5.7 |
★★ Boomstick crack
![]() Linked both pitches. rope stretcher with a 60m
1
5.7
45
2
5.5
15
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | |||||
5.7 |
★★ Banana Peel
![]() Linked 1+2+3, 5+6, 7+8. Had to simul small bits with double 60m. Would probably be fine with 70m. 1h30 min up | 250m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | |||||
5.10c |
★★★ Supervalue
![]() | 35m, 4 | |||
5.9 |
★ Picket Line
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||
5.9 |
★★★ Penny Lane
![]() | 36m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Top Shelf | |||||
5.11a |
★★ Eyecatcher
![]() | 30m | |||
5.10c |
★★ Cursed Crack
![]() More interesting than it looks. | 30m | |||
5.11b |
★★ Cursing All the Way
![]() Took a fall on second bolt. | 15m, 7 | |||
5.10b |
Bob's Your Uncle
![]() Rope stretcher. Took 2x #3-4 | 35m | |||
Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall Pleasant Pheasant Area | |||||
5.11a |
★★★ Pleasant Pheasant
![]() Tricky route finding but beautiful | 22m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
5.11c |
★★ Elastic Man
![]() Bailed on 4th bolt. Couldn't find the sequence. | 22m, 6 | |||
Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Murrin Park Zoë | |||||
5.12b |
★★ Breathe
![]() Flashed the roof traverse. Bailed on the crimpy slab moves. | 21m, 6 | |||
5.10a |
★★ Zoë
![]() Stick clip if you're not comfortable. | 25m, 7 | |||
5.10b 5.10c |
★★ In the Firing Line
![]() | 26m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.8 |
Oscar's Slab
![]() | 12m, 5 | |||
Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The North Walls The Sherriff's Badge | |||||
5.7 |
★★★ Angel's Crest (Angel's Crest P1)
![]() Climbed the tree start to get to angel crack to free an old cam. Rappelled back down after. | 600m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Thu 30th Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The North Walls The Sherriff's Badge | |||||
5.10b |
★★★ Angel's Crest
![]() Most pitches are good but intertwined with forest "pitches". Took the bolted slab start. 8h ascent. 2h hike off. Partner dropped an approach shoe.
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
6
5.5
7
5.10a
10
5.8
12
5.10b
| 600m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | |||||
5.8 |
★★★ Calculus Crack
![]() Great sunset multi with Myriam. Took a "rest" on the 5.8 pitch to free a cam.
6
5.0
| 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | |||||
5.10a |
★★★ Skywalker
![]() Midnight ascent. 2 pitch, simul. 57 min. Took the 5.10a var. by accident.
1
5.7
30m
2
5.10a
25m
| 140m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Cheakamus Canyon | |||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Left | |||||
5.10d |
★★ Bullet the Blue Car
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||
Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Murrin Park Sugarloaf | |||||
5.6 |
Jump Start
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | ||
Fri 24th Jul 2020 - Cheakamus Canyon | |||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | |||||
5.11a |
★★ Creepy Crawlers
![]() | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 24th Jul 2020 - Cheakamus Canyon | |||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Left | |||||
5.13a |
★★ Just Can't Do It
![]() Got up to the 4th bolt, working out the moves. Very crimpy. Beta intense. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Fri 24th Jul 2020 - Cheakamus Canyon | |||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Conroy's Castle | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Charlotte's Web
![]()
1
5.9
25m
| 40m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||
Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base Central | |||||
5.10b |
★★★ Apron Strings
![]() Took at fall on C3 .3 at the exit crux on P1.
2
5.10a
| 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
The Chief The Grand Wall | |||||
5.11a |
★★★ The Grand Wall
![]() Apron Strings into Grandwall, into bellygood ledge. Took 3 falls on Perry's lieback and a rest on the last hard pitch.
3
5.10b
5
5.11a
7
5.10b
| 300m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||
Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Murrin Park Baldwin Crack Area | |||||
5.6 |
★ Beginner's Luck
![]() Not a great first lead for someone | 20m | ★ Good | ||
Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Murrin Park Genesis | |||||
5.10b |
★★ Geniside
![]() Great first half, the second not so much. | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.8 |
★ Cain and Able
![]() Could be a bold but easy sport climb. | 20m, 2 | |||
Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock | |||||
5.11a |
★★★ Hypertension
![]() Beautiful but painfully hard. | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||
Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Cheakamus Canyon | |||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | |||||
5.11d |
★★★ Rug Munchers
![]() More like 11b-11c if you know the moves. | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||
5.10a |
Forgotten Realm
![]() | 18m, 6 | Average | ||
Mon 20th Jul 2020 - Squamish | |||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||
5.10d |
★★ Something Short
![]() Hard start. Took a fall after the small finger bit. | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||
Mon 9th Mar 2020 - Percé | |||||
Cannelloni du Curé | |||||
WI4+ |
Enfer
![]() | 30m | |||
WI5 |
Spanish
![]() | 35m | |||
Sat 7th Mar 2020 - Percé | |||||
La Grotte | |||||
WI3 |
Unknown 1
![]() | 8m | |||
WI3+ |
Unknown 2
![]() | 18m | |||
WI4 |
Unknown 3
![]() | 18m | |||
WI3 |
Unknown 4
![]() | 20m | |||
Fri 6th Mar 2020 - Côte Nord (Route 132) | |||||
WI3+ |
Souris de mon Coeur
![]() | 200m | |||
Thu 5th Mar 2020 - Côte Nord (Route 132) | |||||
WI4 |
Méduse
![]() | 60m | |||
WI4+ |
Le Cigarette Bleu
![]() | ||||
Wed 4th Mar 2020 - Côte Nord (Route 132) | |||||
WI3+ |
Le Voile de la Mariee
![]() | 40m | |||
Fri 29th Nov 2019 - El Potrero Chico | |||||
Las Estrellas Estrellas North Wall | |||||
5.10b |
★★★ Estrellita
![]() Night ascent before flying back. Simulclimbed in two pitches. Up in 1h16min. Had 25 draws. Used a progress capture device to protect the pitch 10 & 11 cruxes. Took all of the easy variants (5.9 on P3, 5.8 on P4 and 5.9 on P10)
1
5.9
1200 ft
2
5.9
3
5.9
4
5.8
5
| 370m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||
Fri 29th Nov 2019 - El Potrero Chico | |||||
Lower Sense of Religion | |||||
5.10b |
★★ Dope Ninja
![]() Drag is terrible on pitch 4. 3rd class before pitch 6. It is recommended to rap one of the routes on the south side (we went down Pancho Villa). Be careful of climbers ascending.
4
5.6
| 180m |