Ascents by Noah Boudreau-Richard

Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.

Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.

Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant.

We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.

Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min

Simul in one pitch. PA onsight-lead the block. 24 draws (30 would be better). 46 mins ground to top. 47 mins for the rappels. Rappel beta: with double 70m 8.4mm ropes, we did a 35m single rope rappel, then 4 full lenght simul-rappels to the ground. Note that the second rappel (first full lenght) we did bypassed the anchor shared with the climb and rope stretch got us exactly to the next anchor. Make sure you understand what that implies if you attempt this method.

Followed Léa with a new climber up this. She stopped at the end of P1 (already a lot of drag) and then climbed P2-P3-P4 in one long 72m pitch. Rapelling P2 with a single 70m rope got us to the slung tree without having to unrope.

Quick lap with PA. 57m08s car to car.

PA lead the opening to the roof (free) then aided to the fixed anchor. I followed on the fixed line with jumar, practicing aid techniques. We hauled some weight up, replaced the cordelette on the three fixed nuts with quick links and chains. Rapelled to the ground.

Started climbing the face climb when it started pouring rain. Made my way to the roof (free) and continued aiding my way up to an abandoned #2. It was getting quite dark at this point so we retreated at this point.

Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.

Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.

With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.

Slipped (wet rock) coming out of the crux,

French freed the crux. Holds were slipery under the rain. The rest was mostly dry or damp so still climbable

Second try. Linked the moves from the ground to the end of the chimney, found a new beta for the link between the chimney and the finger crack and then made my way up the finger crack with a few falls.

Climbed in 5 pitches. Lead all of them. Climbed what is more likely the start of '40 prinptemps' and bypassed a section of the dihedral by climbing clear rock on the right back into the dihedral for the last two pitches. Some loose rocks but not more than should be expected in such adventure terrain. The bushwack took longer than expected, never found the flagged route between 'Les Dalles' and 'Secteur de Droite'. Headlamps were usefull on the way back as well as orientation and terrain navigation skills. Do not under estimate.

First try. One slip two meters into the chinmey. Then linked the chimney but spent way too much energy. Fell repetitively trying to get out of the chimney into the finger crack. Didn't have much energy/time left so I aided the finger crack to the top glue ins. Very nice creative climbing with great protections. Placed two #4, first one was before getting into the chimney and could be substituted for a #2, second was at the end of the chimney and was pretty useful.

Better than the description in rakkup gives it. Placed a #5 because I had it but it's not necessary. Nuts #3/#4 were very useful to protect the crux

Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt

Very nice climb with varied styles yet not hard. Start as an OW/chimney style in the diheedral into a nice OW section to finish on a finger crack. #6 could be used if you dont trust old pitons. Alternatively, you can cross right around the pillar to avoid the last bit of the OW section. #5 tipped out. Otherwise, .3-#3 single rack was fine.

Finished on the left chains then traversed back to the real finish.

Climbed with a set of nut, a few tricams and two bolts.

Probably a little easier now that it's cleaner. Good holds, great movement. Probably the best "first lead" of the area.

Hard... Took about a dozen or so falls making my way up. Linked the first 3 bolts. Crux will be the start of the headwall for me. Great holds out right for the last two bolts.

Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!

This was an unplanned stop on the way to hike in the high peaks, meaning I had little to no preperation/information but an old (1995) guidebook and MP. Side note: please make an offline/downloadable app. Climbed the first pitch of 'Empress' before realising I was completely off route. Made a long traverse back to the correct route and build an anchor after nice 70m pitch at the start of the nice corner/dihedral. My P3 ran from there to the nice fort-like terrase with a nice birch tree as an anchor (directly below the cave variant). Angain due to lack of better information, the topo I had said to "go around the corner" so I did... just not the right one. Instead of going to the right of the cave variant into the normal finish, I climbed the slab (5.7?) in approach shoes trying to stick to wet and dirty granite. Didn't have any protection larger than #3 for the corner so I resorted to slimy/wet undercammed placements and slung chockstones... Not a fun time. Build an anchor 30m further near a deadly looking bath-tub sized flake/boulder, where a second corner must be passed. Aided my way around that corner (would probably be a decent pitch if not wet and protectionless) and escaped back to the normal finish. Exciting! Descent: Used the second rappel option described in the MP comment section and it worked well. Either two short rappels or one full lenght.

Simul in one pitch to the top to cap off a day of 10h, 19 guidebook pitches.

Climbed in one 55m pitch.

Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.

Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.

Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.

Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9

Simul in one pitch through the 5.7 crack variant. Lots of drag at the end.

Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.

Fell at the 3rd, 5th and 7th bolt. Nice movement with a good rest, once you can actually stand on it. Passing the roof isn't bad with a good finger lock.

Fell at the 3rd bolt, holds aren't obvious but with the right beta, the move, although quite sportish, isn't that bad. The ending sequence is beautiful.

The overhang sequence requires some strenght but is around 5.9+ with the right moves.

Bad bolting in the lower section. The upper section is dirty with large loose boulder. Dangerous to climb. Bailed on a tree.

Very cool movement! Constant at the grade and good ambiance. Diserves more traffic.

Nice movement on surprisingly ok rock.

Probably a good option for new leader if stick clipping the second bolt.

We climbed as a party of three with two people new to long multi-pitch climbing but who had good prior knowledge of techniques. 3.5h base to top, 1.5h rapelling. No ropes stuck. Efficient manipulations.

Good classic. Lots of wind.

Absolutely beautiful climb. #4 was usefull for the first dihedral. Bring all the 0.4 you have for the face after the big ledge. Managed to get through with only one and a little magic.

Only did the first pitch to climb "Cosmic Boogie"

#0.5 / #3 / #1 don't need anything after the roof.

Seconded Lea's first true trad lead!

Retrieved the gear from the accident. Wonderful climbing conditions! Lead it all in 6 pitches taking the original finish (5.4) which is much nicer than the 5.8 variation.

Tried to get a quick run in to go and get the gear from the accident. We got up a soaking wet first pitch before the clounds came down on us. We weren't comfortable going further so we bailed on the said gear.