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Ascents as trad by oliver kerr

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Showing all 73 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater
24 ~23 The Thin Line of Reprieve P1 - with Hamish Kerr
1 Trad
Trad 75m Mega Classic
What a fucking route. The 24 pitch only - mega well protected climbing the whole way! Way excellent and pretty stoked for the onsight (if you don't count not being blindfolded for the abseil in).

If you're looking for beta - it's not that hard. Plenty of bridging - my right calf was pretty pumped half way up. I took the full suggested rack plus 15 draws. I was left with 12 draws, almost all my nuts, and a single each of 0.3 to 2 by the anchor. Take a couple of sling draws, a couple of regular draws and leave the rest at home.

 
Mon 8th May 2023 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
18 Apron Strings - with Hamish Kerr Trad 32m Good
I enjoyed it but I'm not sure it was a classic. Plenty of hollow sounding rock on the way.

 
Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall - Main
25 Hard The Bridge to Total Freedom - with Hamish Kerr Mixed trad 190m, 48 Mega Classic
What a cracker of a route! Every pitch is interesting and excellent. The ultimate pitch is just one hell of a mega journey - exposed, pumpy, steep, tufa goodness. It just keeps going.

Unfortunately my trad dad form let me down - the last pitch was abysmal. Many rests.

I whipped twice on pitch two - on the easy terrain after both cruxes. First because a pocket crumbled in my fingers and the second because I slipped on dirty rock. Take it easy out there kids.

 
Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Point Perpendicular
Seaside Windjammer Wall
19 Icebird - with Hamish Kerr Trad 30m Classic
Classic as always. The top crack is still a bit awkward...

 
21 Midnight Lightning - with Hamish Kerr Mixed trad 30m, 1 Very Good
Really good! Great moves and enough gear to keep it pleasant.

 
Fri 2nd Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge
25 ~24 Samarkand - with Hamish Kerr
1 23 15m Trad
2 25 35m Trad
3 23 20m Second
4 22 35m Trad
5 22 25m Second
Trad 130m Classic
Mega route and so good that my dad bod can still produce. Totally soft at 25, one hard move off the belay and then cruisy to the crux which isn't really that hard. The rest was largely pretty stunning with occasional crappy rock.

 
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
Tianjara Falls Indian Head (north) Beat Up and Thrown Out Sector
25 Beat Up and Thrown Out Trad 30m Classic
Attempting this out of form and through dripping water streaks, wet holds and slimy jams. No moves are that hard but it doesn't let up and taken all together a classic route. I feel beaten up and thrown out.

 
Thu 8th Apr 2021 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
30 29 Delusions of Grandeur Trad
Attempted to put the gear in and work the moves ground up. Unfortunately, that one move is nails - I couldn't pull it directly off the rope and there was no gear to aid through. I need to get stronger!

 
Wed 7th Apr 2021 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
27 Pooh Sticks Mixed trad 22m, 3 Very Good
After flashing Pooh Connection, I did this for good measure. It's all in the one crux section...somehow it felt quite a bit harder doing it the second time. Great route and an excellent one to try as the business is on bolts.

 
Tue 6th Apr 2021 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
28 Slinkin' Leopard Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
Fifth attempt over two days - four times I fell screwing up the sequence in a different way. None of those times I was too pumped. Good to finally get what I should have gotten first shot this trip! Excellent route - make sure you bring your crimp strength and endurance!!

 
Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
28 Slinkin' Leopard Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
Two attempts after putting the gear in, the first I forgot a crucial footer after the crimp crux and before the drive-by. The second was a bit ambitious anyway - it turns out climbing in the dark ruins your depth perception and makes you way less accurate!

 
Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
23 The Sandpiper - with Neve Trad 30m
Excellent! An alzheimers onsight this one - and it felt great to cruise it!

 
Sat 20th Feb 2021 - Bungonia Gorge
North Wall - Main
22 Wailing Cockatoo Mixed trad 45m, 5 Classic
Third classic for the day! Solid intimidating climbing. I thought the 24 went left not direct - so I mistakenly did the 22. Though with how thin the 22 was, I may not have succeeded at the 24...

 
21 The Bachelor Mixed trad 130m, 13 Classic
As good as the route next door! That 21 is epic!

 
24 23 Right in the Bunghole Mixed trad 130m, 13 Classic
What a route! I made the problem slightly harder than it needed to be by wrong handing myself at the crux - but managed to sort it out ok.

 
Sun 31st May 2020 - Gibraltar and Corin Road
Gibraltar Peak Summit Boulders
21 Sound as a Trout Mixed trad 13m, 3
Cool climbing - the crimp move at the third bolt is solid for the grade!

 
Sun 31st May 2020 - Gibraltar and Corin Road
Gibraltar Peak Nailbiter Spike
24 Skylark Mixed trad 28m, 4 Classic
I had to fight real hard for the crack - it's thin and pumpy! What a classic route!

 
Sat 14th Dec 2019 - Orroral area
Booroomba Rocks South Buttress Integral face
20 Integral Crack Trad 48m
Sorted out my soloing setup. Microtraxion on the chest harness with a Grigri below. With my super slick 9mm rope, worked really well. 2x laps.

 
22 No Beans for Bonzo Mixed trad 45m, 6
22s sure aren't a give away at Booroomba! Good nipple pulling climbing!

 
Tue 19th Nov 2019 - Pierce's Creek
Eastern Area Matricide
20 Matricide Trad 12m
Rope soloed it clean on my first attempt today. It took me a good deal of grunting but less scraping that I expected. I tried and failed to repeat the ascent a couple of times - you really have to want this one.

 
Sun 20th Oct 2019 - Pierce's Creek
Eastern Area Matricide
20 Matricide Trad 12m
Burly v-groove start with a hold at the back, followed by burly fists. Not the top rope solo I was looking for.

 
19 Tarred and Feathered Trad 15m
A few laps on top rope solo - a million times easier than the 20.

 
Fri 19th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
22 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start - with Kate Riordan Trad 10m
Really only grade 22 on lead. A quick top rope after leading the interesting 15 to the left.

 
Fri 19th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
19 Infinity Trad 40m Mega Classic
Another lap. Absolutely stonking megaclassic that still intimidates even at 19!

 
22 Lonely Teardrops Trad 22m Very Good
Cruised up on second after Damo.

 
18 Plume Trad 25m
Really just enjoyable!

 
Fri 19th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
25 26 Hard Nose DS - with Kate Riordan Trad 25m Very Good
I did all the independent climbing on this clean, it just took me a couple of goes through the crux at the first bolt, I lowered back down to the hands free rest 3m off the ground each time. I was tempted to claim the tick anyway...

 
28 Debrilla - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 25m, 5 Very Good
Tried to do this ground up - first time I've backed off on a climb because I was just too scared! I made it to where my feet were half a metre above the last bolt and I was still half a metre below the bolt above three times. Each time was strung out, desperate and shitting myself and decided to bail off rather than attempting to climb further. Kudos to all the ascensionists who went ground up!

 
Fri 28th Jun 2019 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall - Main
25 The Bridge to Total Freedom - with One Day Hero Mixed trad 190m, 48 Classic
Every pitch was both good and an arse kicking - doubly so for the last. I onsighted/seconded clean everything until the last pitch where my foot slipped after fighting to stay on it for 20 minutes! I was pretty disappointed but I then got suckered into going for the big tufa blob up high - so my onsight was probably fucked anyway. I felt totally worked out of it.

 
Sun 23rd Jun 2019 - Gibraltar and Corin Road
Billy Billy Sarah's Cracks
17 Nice Day for a White Wedding Trad 15m Very Good
Even when it closes up, there are still plenty of hand jams to go round!

 
Sun 23rd Jun 2019 - Gibraltar and Corin Road
Billy Billy Hipster Billy
17 Ground Hog Day Trad 15m Very Good
Nice route - climbs as easily as it looks.

 
15 The Life Aquatic Trad 18m Very Good
Cool route - really nice and pleasant.

 
Sun 23rd Jun 2019 - Gibraltar and Corin Road
Billy Billy Sling Blade
17 Big-mouthed Bass Crack - with One Day Hero Trad 10m Classic
What a fucking splitter! Ferocious thin hands - I had to fight for it!

 
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
26 Escape Mixed trad 25m, 2
Consultation prize from The Great Escape. Cool sequence with knee bars at the top but the funnest part was the wide chimneying to get to the start - feet on one side, hands on the other! I'm sure glad I had a nut preclipped from dogging up The Great Escape, otherwise would have been scary as fuck.

 
28 The Great Escape - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 20m, 4 Good
I couldn't work out the crux move - I almost pulled through on some heinous unchalked slopey side pulls around the bulge but it was way too powerful. I found out afterwards from a random climber walking past that the beta was a right-hand gaston, match and throw. It would have been hard!

 
Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
26 27 Flights of Fancy Direct Trad 20m Good
Totally overgraded at 27! The dyno isn't that hard and the runout section is easy. A couple of decent RPs and a 0.3 Camelot keep you off the ground anyway. It's basically a sport route with the only hard move being on a bolt.

 
Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
24 Paladin - with Kate Riordan Trad 16m Good
Took me a bit to work out a sequence and then three shots to actually send it! Desperate! I'm kinda glad I didn't get through the crux on the onsight, it would have been damn exciting trying to place gear with the slippery feet. I had placed a nut right in the middle of the crux whilst hanging on the rope - utterly impossible to do otherwise.

 
Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
25 Station to Station - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 22m, 4 Good
Not nearly as hard as I remember it!

 
Thu 17th Jan 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress
22 Beaman's Route Direct - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 25m, 1
I was a bit intimidated from the ground but saw there was pro on the first half while lowering off Harlequin. Pretty easy for 22 and the crux moves are easy to protect.

 
18 Harlequin - with Kate Riordan Trad 28m
What a classic!

 
Thu 17th Jan 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall
12 Apline - with Kate Riordan Trad 70m Mega Classic
Just a damn fine climb in a damn fine location!

 
Mon 14th Jan 2019 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai
22 Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 35m, 8 Classic
Excellent climbing up the face down the bottom and arete up the top - done in one pitch.

 
18 Sacred Site - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 30m, 2 Mega Classic
Megaclassic for the position and climbing at such a moderate grade. Amazing day out.

 
16 The Moai Escape (The Moai Eascape.) - with Kate Riordan Trad 60m Good
Surprisingly good second pitch, first pitch was a bit forgettable...

 
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
23 Fuzzy Logic - with Kate Riordan Trad 25m Very Good
Cheeky toprope!

 
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area
19 When the Levee Breaks - with Kate Riordan Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
I forgot it wasn't quite a sport route and for to the bottom without extra cams. I felt in the zone on the way up - totally didn't need them!

 
Fri 13th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
21 Cock Corner - with Kate Riordan Trad 30m Classic
So you think you can jam? This is a dam hard fight no matter how good you are. Continuous the whole way without a move harder than 21!

 
Fri 13th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
26 25 Future Tense - with Kate Riordan Trad 40m Very Good
I fluffed the onsight when I couldn't get the gear I wanted at the crux. The gear below was stonka and I should have just gone for it!....but wasn't feeling it. After I sat on the rope I placed some more stonka gear halfway through the crux and then left it in for the pink point. 26 is pretty generous - especially with all the gear in.

 
Fri 13th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
26 Petulance - with Kate Riordan Trad 45m Very Good
Awesome arete! Very exciting, especially since I ignored the (Simon Carter) guide and launched out early from Deliverance to the optional bolt (not after the lichen ends) - it's a tad run out to the proper first bolt! Doing it the suggested way would be fine. Excellent climbing from there up the airy arete, bolts are just where you need them. I was disappointed not to get the onsight after ripping off a "too good" hold out right of the actual sequence at the crux. If the hold hadn't of let go, I reckon I was 50/50 on making it through.

Don't let the grade scare you, climbing is more like 24/25.

 
Wed 11th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
22 Yankee Go Home Trad 26m Classic
Absolutely sewed it up! Not too bad but harder than Lonely.

 
Mon 9th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
22 Lonely Teardrops Trad 22m
I think I cheated by bridging off the block through the initial finger crack :-/. Regardless - great route!

 
Sun 10th Jun 2018 - Warrumbungles
Bluff Mountain
17 Elijah Trad 360m Classic
Sustained - lots of wondering where the route goes. The traverse was memorable! Most pitches end is a belay bolt and some sport bolts and pitons along the way. Took an alternative ending up the left-hand corner system - lots of loose blocks - think helium.

 
19 Ginsberg Trad 330m Classic
Sustained and solid at the grade. Route and gear finding is often the crux. Thank god for the shiny bolted anchor next to the tree high up - it's the only good bolts on the climb. Great route!

 
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall - Main
24 Evolution Mixed trad 220m, 55 Classic
I pumped myself silly leading the 23 pitch with 2 litres of water in my camel-back. I thought I was in with a show for the 24 pitch sans backpack but it sure showed me who was boss...

 
Wed 10th Jan 2018 - Arapiles
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
24 Look Sharp Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Not too bad once I worked out the moves - though if I was any shorter it would have been impossible!

 
Wed 10th Jan 2018 - Arapiles
Castle Crag
25 The Undertaker Trad 18m Good
Jesus Christ this is slick! It's hard or I'm too weak...or both.

 
Wed 10th Jan 2018 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
25 Station to Station Mixed trad 22m, 4 Classic
Missed the very last crimp on the hard section! It's basically a sport route at the moment with a couple of fixed wires of varying quality at the last crux. #1 and #2 Camelot and quickdraws are all you need.

 
Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Arapiles
Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
23 Sagittarian Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
Interesting climbing - I should have really gone for the onsight proper but I got lost and sat on the rope. Easy once you know where you are going.

 
Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
24 Jumping for Fancy Mixed trad 25m, 2 Very Good
Top roped while I was abseiling down to get my gear off Flights of Fantasy. It would be a very exciting finish on lead! Plummeting from the final crimps would see you close to the ground unless you manage to waggle in some very dodgy RPs on the last "jug".

 
Wed 3rd Jan 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
26 27 Flights of Fancy Direct (Flights of Fancy) Trad 20m Good
I managed to work out the dyno with a really high foot. Once I got that, I dogged the rest of the gear in - including a dodgy yellow for the traverse. On my redpoint attempt I threw my back out on that dyno preventing me from retrieving my gear. Some say my gear is still there to this day.

Edit: turns out I did some weird link up between this and the next route round to the right by traversing after the crux dyno. Not really that necessary - the direct is fine.

 
Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
24 Astral Plane Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
I got scared and dogged In pro on the "onsight" attempt. Once I worked out the moves and had a nut protecting the exciting post crux move# it really wasn't too bad.

 
Sat 25th Nov 2017 - Orroral area
Orroral Ridge The Cloisters The Hello Boulder
18 Sasha Cracka Trad 15m Very Good
Welcome back to granite. 18? Jesus Christ!

 
Sat 25th Nov 2017 - Orroral area
Orroral Ridge The Cloisters The Cereals Buttress
22 Julius Caesar Trad 20m Very Good
Gear in. The crack down low is a thin and a bit goey, the crack up high was burly and wide.

 
Thu 28th Jul 2016 - Orroral area
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Determinant Sector
20 High as Kites Mixed trad 40m, 3 Very Good
I wasn't terrified exactly...I followed the seam out left instead of going through the overlap at the third bolt - because there was gear. I piked, but I'm not unhappy with my decision.

 
19 Jett Arete - with oliver kerr Trad 30m Average
Not bad but nothing to write home about - especially whilst the wind is blowing and your seconder is taking his sweet time.

 
Sat 1st Nov 2014 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls
23 22 R Ice Trad 170m Very Good
That 23 is the money pitch! Those moves on the arete are mega! The top out is dodgy as all hell though.

 
Sat 4th Oct 2014 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area
23 Liquid Daze Mixed trad 30m, 4 Classic
Fuck

 
Fri 3rd Oct 2014 - Point Perpendicular
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area
20 Bad Luck Streak Trad 30m
What a route!! Crack is awesome and the jams are good

 
Sat 5th Jul 2014 - Scarface Buttress
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack Trad 15m Average
Burly crack on a fine example of Wollongong rock.

 
Fri 11th Jan 2008 - Mount Keira
North Face
16 Grot Heap Groove Trad 15m Don't Bother
Thu 10th Jan 2008 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
19 18 The Eternity Trad 22m Classic
awesome, awesome climb...not to hard to protect for a beginner trad climber as well

 
Sat 6th May 2006 - Mount Keira
West Face
13 Zatidee Mixed trad 12m, 1 Average
8 Nursery Trad 10m Average

Showing all 73 ascents.