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Ascents by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,490 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Difficulty
Wed 21st Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath DG's
27 Angiotensin

3 shots. Came here today fairly optimistic of a send (or at least a good showing) only to struggle quite a bit with the final headwall. The start was definitely a bit damp, but the rest was fine despite the weather. Left my draws on it, though, as it's so radical it deserves some more efforts.

Still, even if I'm struggling with a high-gravity day, was radical to hold the ropes (and scream and shout) as Luke crushed the route on a super-unlikely 3rd lap of the day.

- with Luke Yerbury
Sport 15m Classic
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls
24 Unknown 4 (new for 2022)

A hard start (24 or 25?) guards an otherwise enjoyable (though rather runout!) mega long pitch up linked features. gr23 if you pull on the first bolt.

After sticking the start move, I flashed to high on the route before breaking off a jug on easy terrain. But I'm not gonna reclimb the whole route just for the proper tick.

The lower 1/3rd of this route is excitingly bolted. I'd definitely recommend gr23 not being your limit if you're going for the ground-up on this.

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 42m, 16 Very Good
23 Unknown 5 (new for 2022)

Aside from a horrible start, and a silly anchor position, the other 30m of this route is enjoyable, sustained, an varied. There are a handful of hardish moves that probably make this 23, but for the most part it's continuous, rather than cruxy. The fact it tackles 3 rooves at the grade is pretty cool.

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 35m, 16 Very Good
21 Spring Loaded

Seconding Monty.

P2 is genuinely good, but P1 and P3 are rather junk (even regarding them as "access pitches".)

The money pitch is varied, steep, exposed, well-protected, and super funky. Probably quite hard at the grade, in reality.

Beware: the FH at the end of P1 is in a barely-attached teetering block (don't trust it!), and P3 is basically a bolted pitch... except for the unprotected start off the belay on the hardest move of the pitch.

- with Monty Curtis
Trad 60m Good
Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath DG's
25 Hornblower

Flashed to the anchor clipping hold, but couldn't clip the anchor despite hanging on it for ages. Was too frustrated to go up again.

Essentially, this is grade 24 to the clipping hold, or grade 26 to clip the anchor. Up to the clipping hold, this is a really fun route (thuggy, juggy, and steep!), but the nails anchor clip, and the fact it finishes in the middle of nowhere, is a bit dissappointing.

- with Michael Moore, Monty Curtis, Stephen Varney, David Dearnley
Sport 12m Very Good
27 Angiotensin

3 shots. The last EOD effort ended at the final bolt. This thing is all class. Sure, it's a bit sharp, but the line and the moves more than make up for it. The opening boulder is tough but funky, and the runout headwall finale is an appropriate bookend. I'll definitely be back.

- with Michael Moore, David Dearnley, Monty Curtis, Stephen Varney
Sport 15m Classic
23 Defibrillator

23 going on 21? Even in alpine, frozen-finger conditions and absent chalk, this seemed quite easy. Short but pleasant face-climbing with a few thin moves.

- with Monty Curtis, Michael Moore, Stephen Varney, David Dearnley
Sport 15m Good
Sat 10th Sep 2022 - The Hide Away
The Ghetto Cave
28 Ghetto Superstar

Fell off at the last bolt on my 3rd shot. The final few bolts were wet, and -frankly- I was pumped I kept out of the cave for the raddest (though contrived) send effort.

A proper classique roof, with bloody great rock. The infamous opening boulder isn't harder than V3, so don't be put off by it.

- with Tom Collins
Sport 23m, 13 Classic
Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - The Woolwash
The Junkyard Cave
25 Short Sharp Loud

2 more shots, both to the top boulder problem. It wasn't until the end of my 2nd lap, that I really put together the top sequence in a way that suits me. Hopefully next time.

Another really funky, fun route! But, damn that final boulder is gnarly.

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 8m, 5 Very Good
25 The Removalists

2nd shot. On my onsight, I fell off on the last move to the anchors!

Other than the grotty no-hands rest in the middle, this is actually a really fun route. The top roof boulder is greata fun, and super funky.

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
23 Early Bird

Clean repeat. Been a long time since I've been on this one, and I was pretty happy just to punch it straight out, given the rather bouldery start (post hold-breakage). Quite good!

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
24 22 Smack Crack

Repeat. Basically, 3 mantles, to a no-hands rest, followed by an utterly brutal boulder problem that I'm calling 24. Not a good warmup!

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
12 Constipation Chimney Variant Start

2 laps on TRS today to access the upper ledge.

Trad 19m Very Good
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Greater Carne Creek Everyman and his Dog Area
25 Raid

Mega mega mega!

Originally attempted ground-up (after climbing Everyman and his Dog) resulting in a few big falls, and much fear, I later sent this third shot on pre-placed gear, and 4th shot placing all gear on lead. On the FFA, I linked P1 into P2.

This is the sort of modern-style trad climbing that I've really come to enjoy, where the incipient crack takes gear, but much of the climbing is done gymnastically on face holds, resulting in some exciting exposure as you move away from the gear. The upper crux is very sporty. Proper stoked with this find.

- with Mitchell Stewart
Trad 55m Classic
24 Everyman and his Dog

Was pretty chuffed to punch this out as a warmup, with the route unchalked.

The money pitch is short, and the rock is variable (though mostly quite good) but it's very sustained and insecure, and an excellent technical crack-climbing test-piece. In a few moments of desperation, I began using face-holds that would be called bad footers any other day of the week... I'm sure there's better beta

- with Mitchell Stewart
Trad 60m Very Good
Sat 20th Aug 2022 - The Woolwash
The Junkyard Cave
27 Full Dole Cheque

2 shots. A very strange, but really radical route, with a surprising amount of climbing in the first half.

I had a lot of trouble putting together a viable sequence for the traverse crux. When I finally sorted out a repeatable sequence, it felt boss !

- with Tom Collins, Stephen Varney
Sport 10 Very Good
24 The Junkyard Dog

Clean repeat. Fun fun fun!

- with Stephen Varney, Tom Collins
Sport 17m Very Good
Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Gorge South-Eastern Wall
22 The Antivenom

Sweet to get this one done despite the crux running with water. Awesome to finally have a small piece of real-estate on a wall that I've been admiring for some 15 years.

Tackles the faces and roofs of Venom Wall (mostly) on gear (though with the odd bolt to keep it sane), with some gripping, old-school climbing and runouts.

A worthy companion route to The Venom, in my opinion.

- with Glen Thomson, David Dearnley
Trad 110m Very Good
Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Gorge South-Eastern Wall
21 The Venom

Surely one of the best lines in the Gorge? Even quite wet today (after all the rain) this was really rad -and quite gripping. Though untrafficked and a touch loose (it is Glenbrook Gorge, after all) the rock is generally pretty good, and the route takes the plum line up the proudest part of the raddest wall.

Onsight but for P2, which I'd actually climbed previously as part of another route.

I definitely found committing to the crux on P3 quite intense, as it's not obvious where it goes. All I'd say is: follow the gear.

- with Glen Thomson
1 18 40m
2 17 20m
3 21 30m
4 18 15m
Trad 110m Very Good
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower
27 25 Psycho Killer

Some awesome, sustained climbing on great rock.

Unfortunately, a super key hold has snapped off between the 3rd and 4th bolt, making this move now grade 1 billion (I found a mcdougall around it, or you could simply traverse across from SCC higher up). The main slab section is gnarly and sustained, but freaking awesome. I never really figured out the move from the last bolt to the ledge (perhaps it traverses left to the arete?) I'd probably be willing to give it another go in the near future.

- with Monty Curtis
Trad 35m Very Good
20 5 Go Adventuring Again

Linked both pitches. The start is quite dangerous and on very average rock. There is a nice section of steep scoops following this, but the upper section is dull climbing with a deathy runout. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, really.

- with Monty Curtis
Mixed trad 50m, 7 Average
17 St Clemmen's Crack

Seconding Monty. I still love this route. Sure, it has a few sections of average rock, but I'd say they're offset by far more interesting climbing than your usual easy-grade crack fare.

- with Monty Curtis
Trad 50m Classic
23 St Valentine's Day Massacre

Fell off the gnarly start a few times before I sussed it (if you told me it was gr25, I wouldn't argue) then punched out the route. Proper classic old school climbing on amazing rock. Super improbable techo moves.

Unfortunately, the rebolt done on this is worse than just climbing on the original carrots (not joking). Bring bolt plates!

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 55m Classic
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Hanging Rock Crayfish Creek
25 Human Cannonball

Aaand the wheels fell off... tiiiired.

Pitch 1 was cool steep bouldering with funky knee-bar trickery, and the onsight went well... until it didn't... but I tried bloody hard - a funky cool little pitch.

Pitch 2 is more bum-rock climbing on runout carrots, but quite bouldery and more sustained. I made it to the last of the hard face moves, but couldn't figure it out (even off the carrot) and couldn't aid past it... by this point my head-game was shot from the day, so I downclimbed and bailed.

I used a 0.5 cam at the start of P2.

With a 60cm runner on the anchor at the end of P1, there was no issue linking these pitches together.

1 25 15m
2 25 30m
Mixed trad 45m, 6 Very Good
23 Big, Meaty Pork Chops

Im giving this classic even with some shitty bolting, and dusty holds. Very Arapilean, asit wanders around between gear, holds, and brackets (only the first bolt off the ground is a carrot) on classy bum rock. This is probably the only route I genuinely enjoyed here.

I used a 0.5 and 2 cam.

With a few long runners, rope drag was not a problem on a single rope.

Mixed trad 45m, 5 Classic
- Mr & Mrs Attila the Hun

Awesome rock at the crux. Seems doable. Someone should go send it.

Unknown
23 Hot and Hunky

Very unlikely novelty traversing, but the carrots are garbage (at stupid angles to the rock, and unfiled heads makes getting plates on a nightmare) and getting to the first bolt is death.

I was on this for a loooong time on the onsight, struggling to find the holds/line on an untrafficked and weird route.

Bring a 0.5 and 0.4 cam for the first half.

Mixed trad 20m, 5 Good
23 Shoot Your Shot

A few okay moves up a thin orange face, but consistently snappy rock, and pretty sketchy equipping. Not recommended.

I used a 2 and 0.4 cam in the initial corner, and a 3 to back up a crappy bolt higher up.

Mixed trad 25m, 5 Average
Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
25 Juice on the Loose

Clean Repeat. Draw retrieval lap. Still good steep fun.

- with Simmo
Sport 12m, 9 Very Good
21 Thirty Three Years

Seconding Simmo to get to the upper ledge.

- with Simmo
Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
24 Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing

More funky steep stuff. Though the crux is clipping the anchor, it's less "Fist Full of Steel" and more Coolum-esque. Probably the easiest route on the upper ledge.

- with Simmo
Sport 12m, 7 Very Good
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower
23 M1 23 M1 Maxbond

2nd shot -I found it hard to figure out the line/bolting on the onsight attempt. Could be "very good" with a bit of TLC. The actual moves are pretty cool (and kinda novelty) though it's rather unloved, and the aid move is quite weird. The lower-crux is a pretty wild bit of technical climbing, and the final traverse left to gain the P1 anchor is gripping!

- with Mitchell Stewart
Trad 45m Good
24 Nuclear Winter

Pretty stoked with the onsight given the (obvious) lack of wear/traffic and dirty holds after the recent deluge.

Linked both pitches into a giant 45m pitch from the ground. I don't necessarily recommend this unless you use 2 ropes, or pull up and drop the rope (for a clean run of rope) at the end of P1, as the rope drag was horrible.

A very old school, wandery, cryptic, and intimidating line. P1 starts inauspiciously, but ends with some pretty hard slabbing a long way above a carrot. P2 features some heart-stopping climbing to gain the arete, turn it, and continue up the slab on the other side before finally getting another carrot. Both pitches were good fun if you like the style, but P2 proved gripping enough to be memorable, and I'll readily admit that I was a bit freaked.

- with Mitchell Stewart
1 23 20m
2 24 25m
Trad 45m Classic
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Gorge South-Eastern Wall
24 Wokker's Roof

Second shot on in-situ gear.

If you ignore the faff (read: choss and doddle) to get to the roof, and the fact that the roof itself is comically short, the climbing itself is bloody outrageous -especially given the era of its first ascent.

Rather bouldery roof moves to gain the offwidth, after which the climbing is weird (read: fully-inverted feet-first climbing), but not too hard. The rock itself was surprisingly good for Glenbrook Gorge.

Full disclosure: the tippy top mantle is currently a carpet of moss and mank (due to lack of traffic and the recent storms) and I didn't do the final move, instead finishing at the last possible to place bit of small gear in the seam-crack. I'm satisfied with what I climbed and how I climbed it -the top move isn't easy but its far from the hardest moves on the pitch. With a decent amount of wire brushing, the top would probably be okay.

- with David Dearnley
1 15 35m lead by David Dearnley
2 24 10m lead by Paul Frothy Thomson
Mixed trad 45m, 1 Very Good
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass The Birdcage Area
23 Pitch Blank

Pitch 1 only -though I kinda climbed some of the Project as well (it's a confusing bit of wall, here). Probably about gr23 the way I climbed it, though I would describe it as the most logical line. Old school, boulder-problems between mantles and ledges, with some huuuge runouts. Completely dry despite all the crazy rain.

- with Monty Curtis
1 23 25m
2 15m
3 15m
Trad 55m Good
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area
25 Hazard Reduction

2nd shot. Almost a classic, marred only by the somewhat sandy start -though, it wasn't as chossy as I was expecting, and is much better than Soul Catcher P1. Quite easy at the grade (24?) but committing through the crux, and tricky to read when unchalked. Was a cruise 2nd lap, though.

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 27m Very Good
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area
23 Legoland

Clean repeat. Even running with water, this thing is bloody brilliant. So many cool features.

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 25m, 9 Classic
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area
25 SSCC4

My unchalked onsight of P2 ended at the 3rd last bolt (and the last real move) when I finally made a footwork mistake, with all the hardest climbing in the bag . Despite being aesthetically ugly, the moves on both pitches are brilliant, and I had to pull out every slab-climbing trick in the book on the onsight effort of P2. It was dissappointing to drop the ball right at the try-line, but it wasn't absent a whole-hearted effort -I tried hard.

Linked both pitches from the ground with minimum rope drag.

The start of P1 is rather nails, but the initial moves its only about gr21 to the top.

- with Will Vidler
1 23 25m
2 25 25m
Sport 50m Classic
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Thrustblock Area
25 Viva La Vioxx

Linked Pitches 1 and 2 cause I couldn't be bothered to rebelay... Not recommended (the rope drag was terrible!). P1 would be about gr21, but for a 2m V4/V5 sequence. I wouldn't say I worked out the crux in question, but I also didn't really try. Fun enough, but not one of the better aretes here. P2 had some cool climbing at the start, but was crazy runout (6 bolts in 25m!) I don't think I'll be back.

- with Will Vidler
1 25 25m
2 22 25m
3
Sport 50m Good
23 The Mind Boggles

Clean Repeat. Just the first ~30m (to the lower anchors) as a warmup. Even better than I remember! Damn, this has to be one of the best 3 23's in the Blueys! You know its good, when it's so cold I can't feel my fingers, but I'm still frothing the climb!

- with Will Vidler
Sport 40m, 18 Mega Classic
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
25 Gavia

Huzzah, the un-send! EOD repeat attempt, not clean though. Still, smashing out these 5 routes in 5 hours, I fell off because I was dead-tired (After battling through the low crux).

More sustained than it looks, and very worthwhile!

- with Simmo
Sport 20m Good
24 San Pornando

Clean Repeat. Why doesn't this get done more? It's been an age since I last ticked it, and was a joy to climb straight-up today with no real problems, despite it being completely untrafficked. Rock the entire way was bomber, and even the grey-section was so clean you could eat off it.

- with Simmo
Sport 42m, 16 Very Good
25 Kizashi

Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 25's in the Blueys. Good training.

- with Simmo
Sport 20m, 12 Classic
23 28 Marxism

Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 23's in the mountains. An excellent 2nd warmup.

- with Simmo
Sport 62m, 22 Very Good
23 Reigning Steel

Clean repeat. Great warmup as always. OMG, the conditions were amazing!

- with Simmo
Sport 17m, 7 Very Good
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - South Pacific
Half Baked Wall
24 When There Are Nine

2nd shot. Thanks Viona for letting me free this awesome face route!

Cruisy slabbing to a good stance at the 2nd last bolt, then its all on to the finish, with very technical climbing following a weird feature up-and-right -footwork was key!

Great fun, and excellent vision from Viona!

- with Viona Young
Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - South Pacific
Underworld
22 8 Ball

As good as advertised. Short'n'sweet, with really interesting technical climbing. Fairly sustained at the grade. I bet that upper crux surprises a few people.

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 18m, 8 Classic
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - South Pacific
Half Baked Wall
25 Lean Streak

2nd shot. Best line I climbed at this crag!

My onsight ended at the last bolt, tickling the good fingerlock. With no chalk on this, I felt like I battled hard and improvised well, only to be pipped at the post. But it wasn't for lack of trying, so that's okay

Great rock, super techy moves, and an obvious feature to climb. We belayed from ground level, and had no problems with rope drag or length of fall.

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 20m Classic
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - South Pacific
Descent Gully - Left Side
23 It Began In Afrika

For some reason I decided the obvious hold out left at the top was off-route (on the line next to this), and ignored it. Since when did I contrive climbing? 2nd shot. A really great route with a lot of climbing despite being short. The top boulder is rad!

- with Viona Young, Stephen Varney
Sport 12m, 7 Very Good
24 I Wanna Be a Cowboy

Can't claim the onsight, cause I'd done the start on Bee's Knees

The crux is very much the gnarly start boulder. The upper bit through the roof is fun, and not too hard, but the bolting is kinda ledge-fall-y. Not as choss as it looks, either.

- with Viona Young
Sport 20m, 12 Very Good
25 Bee’s Knees

"No, not the bees!" ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVCrmXW6-Pk )

Prior to today, I've never been stung by a bee. Now, I can proudly say I've been stung by 5 bees, and I'm apparently not anaphylactic. That's two things off my masochistic bucket list. Sweet!

I haven't got a bee in my bonnet, I've got one in my helmet (now a weird red welt, for some reason).

Also: the bees on this line at the moment are crazy active. Apparently falling off the upper crux and landing in the vicinity of their hive is enough to make them go berserk. Meanies

- with Viona Young
Sport 25m, 13 Very Good
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - South Pacific
Underworld
23 Cowgirl

Stop-start, but cool cruxes! An excellent second warmup.

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 18m, 8 Very Good
Sat 25th Jun 2022 - South Pacific
Palm Jungle
24 Ride the Lightning

Sweet. This was my goal for this trip, and got it done! With not a drop of chalk on it, it was a tricky, sequency number, but totally suited my style of climbing. Even in the full sun, it was fun!

Nothing physically harder than grade 23, but lots of technique and committment called for. I climbed the arete direct all the way to the top. Almost a classic (but for the poxy start, and the overall shortness).

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 25m, 12 Very Good
Mon 13th Jun 2022 - The Woolwash
The Junkyard Cave
26 Bogan Direct

EOD Cool-down (??) repeat attempt. Not clean, but when I remembered my beta, the moves felt fine... and awesome.

Shorter than a bee's dick, but without a single wasted meter.

- with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall
Sport 7m, 7 Classic
26 Chic Chic Boom Chic

3 shots (via left hand finale). Felt about 60% sure I'd stick it on the 3rd lap, but it was at that point where the wheels fell off. Awesome, powerful, dynamic roof climbing. Took me a bit to figure out the sequences. Will be back.

- with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall
Sport 7 Very Good
24 The Junkyard Dog

Clean repeat. What a brilliant, thuggy warmup. I'd forgotten how good this place is.

- with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall
Sport 17m Classic
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer
30 Detache Mode

2 shots. Still haven't quite latched the dyno (getting closer, though), but the move immediately after is my crux. The rest of the route felt easier than a year ago, but still lots of work to do.

- with Mitchell Stewart
Sport 28m Very Good
26 Lactictoc

Warm up - Just up to the upper crux (2nd last bolt) where I jumped off. Makes for an awesome warmup that way. Damn this one's a good'un.

- with Mitchell Stewart
Sport 28m Classic
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Cottage Boulder
25 The Freedom Day

2nd shot. Almost classic status! Substantially harder than the other routes on this wall -the headwall is proper stacked to the anchor. A great addition on perfect rock. Steeeeeep!

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald Head Fossil Head
24 Petrified

Climbed this as a giant 50m pitch from the ground as well. This was by far the better of the 2 routes here, with better rock and climbing on every pitch. P3 might be the best pitch of the day!

P1 was a great sustained burly quest.

Fell off 2 bolts from the top of P2 on the onsight -got a bit lost from the bolt positioning and ended up in no man's land.

P3 was awesome rock and "oozy" style climbing.

- with Simmo
1 23 15m
2 24 20m
3 21 15m
Sport 50m Very Good
23 G-Rex

Climbed as a giant 50m single pitch from the ground, because I couldn't be bothered rebelaying P1 was onsight from the 3rd bolt up. Good climbing on all pitches, though snappy rock (especially due to lack of traffic) demanded some delicate climbing -though I don't think I broke anything off.

- with Simmo
1 23 15m
2 22 20m
3 21 15m
Sport 50m Very Good
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area
25 Desiree

Just the one EOD shot. The bolting is moderate death insanity, but the climbing is pretty cool technical face tic-tacing, marred by some snappy rock. Harder-end 25 for sure. Hopefully I get back before I forget the beta

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 25m Very Good
Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
12 Constipation Chimney Variant Start

TRS to gain the upper ledge. Even in approach shoes, this is just a beautiful crack climb at the grade.

Trad 19m Very Good
27 Armistice Direct

Just the one shot. Absolutely cruiiiiised the part shared with Armistice, but couldn't properly work out the single move to gain the razor-blade roof pocket. I "sort of" had a way of doing it, but was too scared to commit (for fear of severing a finger). Maybe there's a trick?

Fun steep jugging with much time foot-free, guarded by a single very hard move!

- with Matt King
Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
26 The Kangaroolity of Women

Sweet! Finally got it done despite the proper arctic conditions! Having fallen off the move to match the lip of the roof 5 times, it was an awesome feeling to keep it all together for the send.

A bit sharp, sure, but its a lot of time climbing completely horizontal at a relatively tame grade. And the boulder to gain the lip is all time rad.

- with Matt King
Sport 15m, 11 Very Good
Sat 28th May 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower
25 The Prozac Years

What a journey! I've wanted to do this for years (we've all seen that photo of Greg Child on the roof cut-loose and mantle), especially because I've never heard of anyone ever doing it (even asking many of the local legends). If it ever gets rebolted and a bit of TLC, this would be a genuine multipitch classic!

I linked P1 and P2 into a giant 40m Onsight, then set up an improvised belay just below the roof (using 2 bolts and a #1 cam) so I could reduce the roof and mantle to a manageable boulder problem. These pitches are beautiful, sustained face climbing on great rock. P2 in particular follows a super-cool vague-flake thing with tricky feet, and finishes with an old-school "padding" traverse.

Ticking the roof and mantle took me a bunch of shots (initially cause I was using totally wack beta) and at one point involved such a massive sideways fall that I broke a biner. Once I sorted my beta and rested up, it went down surprisingly easy. I'd probably call the mantle a V3?

Pitch three is quite easy, but has a proper gripping traverse at the grade. I'm glad I didn't fall off.

Full disclosure: I pulled up to get the 3rd bolt clipped before attacking P1, so I obviously knew the holds at the start before I climbed it.

- with David Dearnley
1 24 40m
2 25 7m
3 20 20m
Sport 67m Classic
Wed 25th May 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
25 Juice on the Loose

More hilarious steep jugging. After you leave the no-hands rest 5 bolts up, its all campus-y action to the end. Enjoy the mushroom jug!

I'd have given this 24, but the last move to the lip seems proper roof bouldering to me? Let me know if it should be downgraded.

- with Glen Thomson
Sport 12m, 9 Very Good
Wed 18th May 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
26 The Kangaroolity of Women (Project Paul)

I'm now at 2 full days of effort on this one, and have fallen off the last move a comical number of times. I don't actually think it's that hard, I'm just quite talented at falling off it.

A bit sharp through the roof-flake section, but otherwise this is a great steep adventure, with a mega classic roof boulder to gain the jug on the lip. With any luck, this should go down soon.

- with Will Vidler, Michael Moore
Sport 15m, 11 Very Good
24 Is it About a Bicycle?

This ended up taking the better part of two full days of effort to tick, but the moment that we had good conditions, it went down smoooooooooothe.

Short and punchy. This is the sort of steep, juggy, campus-y roof climb where you just giggle like a mad chook the whole way.

- with Will Vidler, Michael Moore
Sport 10m, 9 Very Good
22 Thai Virus

Seconding Michael and Will! A few hard moves, but great climbing and pleasant rock.

- with Michael Moore, Will Vidler
Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
Sun 15th May 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff
23 The Never Believers

Clean repeat. I haven't been back on this years, which is weird, cause its loads of steep, juggy, thuggy fun!

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
24 Mountain Ant

Just the one attempt as a warmup. In my usual "post trip sucking" I couldn't actually do the crux move at all Having said that, it is a really cool route. Even rather wet today, it was fun,

- with Monty Curtis
Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Thu 12th May 2022 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
25 Neon God

TRS Clean both pitches. Good to get back on this years after I last did it, and repeat it without too much difficulty even sans chalk. P2 is quite sustained and continuous in its two halves, with very rad moves up an incipient series of seams. I enjoyed this way more today than I did last time.

1 22 25m
2 25 25m
Sport 50m Classic
23 The Holy Road

TRS clean. Surprisingly worthwhile, and not as contrived as I was expecting from some of the comments here (certainly no more contrived than Neon God P2). Challenging thin sequences between good stances. This didn't seem too hard in the style even absent chalk.

Sport 25m Very Good
14 Fiddlesticks

Morning FS to get my rope atop the pillar for some TRSing. Absolutely brilliant! Clean, old school, exposed, technical, and even a tad thrutchy. Easy climbs dont get much better.

Trad 65m Classic
Wed 11th May 2022 - Bare Rock
The Block
26 Stiff Upper Cock

TRS Clean 2nd shot. I wanted to give this a lap now that it's no longer a closed project, but absent belayer, TRS will have to do. I've given this little gem classic, because I just can't imagine 12m of climbing getting much better (Great rock, super sustained, complex, technical moves, a very obvious line... even the initial gr21 crack section was engaging with bombproof rock).

Sport 12m, 10 Classic
15 Block O'Clock

Repeat. Great way to access the top of the boulder. Has cleaned up nicely since last time I did it, and is now good insecure fun.

Sport 8m, 3 Good
Mon 9th May 2022 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 28 Chase that Feeling

Wow! A sustained, complex face climb with classic moves and rock, to a no-hands rest, before a gnarly V6 boulder finale through the top roof. The upper slab is not to be underestimated!

Though I could do the moves of the boulder, I didn't feel that I could put both parts of the climb together in the 2 days I had to try it, so instead I traversed over to the finale of Velvet Morning immediately before the no-hands rest at the top roof, and finished up that (hence not claiming the full grade). Sure, it's the piker's McDougall, but it makes the climb even more sustained, and just as classic as most of the other routes here IMO! Hopefully next time I'll send it properly.

Full disclosure: I also started with the first 3 bolts pre-clipped.

At the start I use a compression/arete-slapping/heel-hooking sequence rather than the crimp boulder. Was heaps of fun figuring it out.

Sport 35m Classic
Sat 7th May 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Deepwater Zawn
17 Beowulf

Haha, what a hilarious route. Not really a "line" per say, but certainly a very unlikely journey. I climbed a sightly harder variant for the sake of a photo, where I climbed the tier of rooflets below the normal line (ie, my handholds were the normal footers), which added even more wildness. Bomber rock and pro. My old criticism is that rapping in is a bit faffy.

- with Stephen Varney, Jared Anderson
Trad 35m Classic
Fri 6th May 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall
12 Apline

Clean repeat. An evening lap before dinner. Heavenly.

- with Stephen Varney
Trad 70m Mega Classic
Thu 5th May 2022 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
27 M1 27 M1 R Masked Lapwing

5 days of effort in total to free both pitches. It takes a lot for exposure to scare me, but this route managed it. Super obscure, but stunning.

Wild, gymnastic traversing, with huge falls into space. I got in the habit of climbing this with my grigri pre-set just behind my knot, and my Jumaar ready for rapid deployment.

On one of my laps on P2 I took a really bad fall, to the point I thought I'd broken my foot. I managed the Send on my final real shot of the trip.

The Aid move on P1 probably goes free if you've a bigger standing reach than me. The one on P2 definitely goes free, but it adds at least 3 more grades to the pitch. Feel free to go for the true FFA!

- with Jared Anderson, Stephen Varney
Sport 40m Very Good
Tue 3rd May 2022 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
23 Fire in the sky

Clean Repeat. Even after all these years and laps, this doesn't get any easier. Damn its sustained!

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 30m, 16 Very Good
Mon 2nd May 2022 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
23 Smoke on the Water

Clean repeat. Totally worthwhile technical face climbing. This has cleaned up well over the years.

- with Stephen Varney
Sport 30m Very Good
Sun 1st May 2022 - Fortescue Bay
The Totem Pole
27 The Sorcerer

Early birthday present! What a rad outing. Like the Free Route, but with proper physical, burly climbing. The crux pitch is very sustained in the bottom half. Gale force winds made this a griping, shivering, barn-dooring experience.

P1 - Self-belay shennanigans after the belay got dumped by waves. After self-belaying to the end-of-pitch anchor, I fixed the rope there, and back-tracked to undo my self-belay anchor so Jared could rap all the way to the P2 belay from the mainland.

P2 - Hard fought, unchalked onsight. The top 5m is fierce arete slapping. I almost gave up at the last bolt as I struggled to clip mid-barndoor, but just squeaked it.

P3 - 4th shot total (including onsight attempt and a TRS lap). On my 3rd shot I fell off on tbe last move of the last hard sequence. Stacked techo climbing, with no shutdown crux.

- with Jared Anderson
1 22 10m
2 25 15m
3 27 40m
Mixed trad 65m, 9 Classic
Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Maelstrom Wall
22 The Green Dream

A lot of this was sopping, so I chose to chalk and equip the draws on the way down. Like everything here, the quality was so high that crappy connies didn't impede the fun. Super classy face climbing.

- with Jared Anderson
Sport 20m, 12 Classic
21 White Noise

Seconding Michael. Yep, deserves the rep. Quality rock, classy climbing, very unlikely at the grade. A total joy to climb.

- with Michael Lehmann, Jared Anderson
Mixed trad 30m, 14 Classic
Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Elephanthide Wall
21 21/22 Trunk Music

Wild face climbing, with lots of insecure technicality. After the nights rain, this was super spooge, and I climbed like I was walking on eggshells.

- with Jared Anderson
Sport 18 Classic
23 Deep Six

Awesome! Lots of unlikely moves that seem like they'll be nails, but come together okay. Even with a sopping wet start, this was just tonnes of fun, and easily as rad as white noise IMO.

- with Jared Anderson
Sport Classic
Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Bull Pinnacle
21 Zugzwang

Seconding Michael. The rock is a bit crunchy, but the climbing is rad, insecure and gripping. The bottom half is the money, and seemed hard at the grade to me. Be sure to make the most of the arete through the crux.

- with Michael Lehmann
Sport 20m, 12 Very Good
Wed 27th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay The Aviary
25 Lodestone

2nd shot total. Scrapped by way up this with the help of some funky crux beta from Michael -necessitating some gnarly foot-above-head insanity to work with my physiology- which was key to my success without working the route. It's far from over even after sticking the roof, and I felt like I was questing desperately all the way to the anchor. Highlight of the Bruny trip for sure.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Mixed trad 30m, 14 Classic
24 Footnote

2nd shot. Flash pumped out at the top bolt on the onsight. Awesome, technical shallow corner climbing in an insecure position. Quite unrelenting in the top half. Totally deserves its rep.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Sport 25m, 10 Classic
21 Peer Review

Great warmup. Climbed both pitches as 1 big pitch. Beautiful climbing up funky grooves on P1, and easier but worthwhile box groove traddy stemming on P2. I brought a rack of medium wires, and cams 0.3 - 1 for the top.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
1 21 28m
2
Mixed trad 28m, 10 Very Good
Tue 26th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay The Aviary
23 Primavera

Mega! The slightly annoying trad start is long forgotten after you tackle the sustained overhanging stemming grooves. Even in todays wetness, this was just too much fun!

- with Gerry Narkowicz, Michael Lehmann, Jared Anderson
Mixed trad 28m, 12 Classic
22 Crow

2nd shot. Did not find the key crimps at the crux before I spooged off. Still felt nails at the grade 2nd shot.

Really cool, sustained climbing, with a gnarly fingery crux. The upper bit is great!

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Sport 25m Very Good
23 Desert Raven

2 gnarly cruxes in differing styles separated by easier climbing. The upper crux got me, I'm afraid. Was a bit too frustrayed to give it another shot.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Sport 25m Very Good
25 Lodestone

Went for the unchalked, spoogey onsight, and managed to make it to the roof before falling. After that it was bolt to bolt. Happy with my effort and the fight at EOD, cause it is proper stemmy stem insecurity to the roof.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Mixed trad 30m, 14 Classic
24 Powerful Owl

Short and punchee!

I probably had more trouble keeping it together through the start boulder, than the upper powerful, morpho section... but I did have Michael's good foot beta.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Sport 20m Very Good
20 19 Cheeky Monkey

Some cool, delicate moves... but I thought the crux was absolutely brutal at the grade. Not a bad introduction to the crag, though.

- with Jared Anderson, Michael Lehmann, Gerry Narkowicz
Sport 7 Very Good
Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Bare Rock
Main Face
23 Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch

Clean repeat. Whew... thinner than I remembered! This one got me warm.

- with Jared Anderson
Sport 20m Very Good
19 Tomorrows Dream

Clean Repeat. Great way to shake out the bare rock cobwebs. A worthwhile easy multi!

- with Jared Anderson
Sport 100m Very Good

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