Showing all 43 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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16 19 | ★ The Swiss Route (The Swiss Route Direct) | 88m | Blue Mountains | Average | Wed 21st Dec 2011 | |||
Scary in the wet. Not too pleasant, and weird anchors.
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16 17 | ★★ Genesis | 58m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Dec 2017 | |||
Linked into the top pitch of Cardiac Arete for a single 50m pitch. Finally got around to climbing this crack! Good value for money at the grade, and very exciting if you don't bring any big cams. Quite sustained and technical for the grade.
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16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th May 2013 | |||
Warm-up. Quite a nice little climb at the grade, and a good jamming test piece if this is your limit.
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16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th May 2011 | |||
08 May 2011.
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16 | ★★ Ice Nine - with Vladi Eileen | 35m | Freycinet National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Feb 2016 | |||
Climbed as one big pitch, no rope drag at all. Hard starting moves (relative to the grade) and really cool moves up a thin crack to get out left near the top, but not very sustained and a touch wandery. Still worthwhile as an easy trad route.
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16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket | 20m, 3 | Barrenjoey | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Jan 2011 | |||
20th January 2011.
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16 | ★ Orange Slice | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Apr 2011 | |||
09 Apr 2011. Onsight all 3 pitches. Some dubious pro and rock, but amazing position. The most dangerous thing about this climb is getting to the start of it... and the tourists. The closest you can legally climb to the 3 Sisters!.
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16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Feb 2012 | |||
P1 only. Bloody brilliant climbing. Some laybacking, some jamming, some technical stemming, some airy roof moves, all on great rock with excellent pro. Hard for the grade, in my opinion. Gates of Janus and P1 (16) of Gold Star face off on either side of Walkdown Gully as the "classic" 16's of the area, and Gold Star P1 is left sorely wanting. Get on this now!!!
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16 | ★ Young Dudes | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jan 2011 | |||
8th Jan 2011. How has that paper-thin flake not broken?
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16 | ★★ The Friendly Jackal | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jun 2011 | |||
26th June 2011. Good value. Climbed it while the crack was seeping huge volumes of slime and water.
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16 | ★ Hang Five | 12m, 1 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jan 2011 | |||
08 Jan 2011. Probably one of the better Glenbrook Gorge routes, if it weren't for the horrible Shalebank topout. Makes a great direct start to Annelid Crack.
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16 | ★ Castor | 22m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th May 2013 | |||
Climbed on No-Chalk Rob's pre-placed gear to retrieve a stuck rope. Surprisingly good, and somewhat challenging at the grade. Good climbing from start to finish. The Off-width moves arent too bad.
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16 | ★ Chocolate Coated Parents | 12m | Joll's Bridge | ★ Good | Sun 11th Nov 2012 | |||
Would be a 14 at piddo! Much nicer now that Jenga removed all the loose blocks from the crack. Not too hard, but climbs in a thought-provoking manner.
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16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Dec 2010 | |||
28 Dec 2010. Led all 3 pitches. The 2nd pitch is the money pitch... Absolutely amazingly terrifying. A #5 and/or #6 cam is crucial for the first part of the 2nd pitch. The route EATS hexes.
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Embankment 2 | 30m | Millstone Edge | ★ Good | Tue 30th Apr 2013 | |||
Flashed on Jengas gear. Pretty good for a warm up. A few tricky moves, and interesting all the way.
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16 | FA ★ Abnormal Coal Seam Morphology | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 15th Dec 2012 | |||
A pleasant trad ramble. The thin flake at the bottom widens to a hand crack, which leads to some delicate and awkward roof moves, and an easy corner crack to the top. Other than the chossy detached block and some loose rock underneath the bulge, this climb is quite enjoyable.
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6- A1 6 A1 | ★★★ Eiertanz | 130m | Upper Pinios Valley | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Oct 2018 | |||
Quite runout and somewhat inferior rock for Meteora... but you can't say its not a memorable line! The final down-climb and bridge across the void is entertaining (I had a go at freeing the downclimb, but the rock is disintegrating junk). Climbed as 3 pitches (OS P1 & P2 linked; Clean 2nd P3 & P4 linked; OS P5), and rapped off with a single 70m rope down the back (30m, 30m, 35m) but I suggest bringing 2 x 60m ropes and doing the easier rap down the face.
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16 | ★★ Easy Street - with Philip Barker | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||
Done with a Gentleman's Sit. Surprisingly awkward, despite appearances. With a bit more cleaning, this will be good fun.
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16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India | 210m | Mt Maroon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
With No-chalk Rob. 8 hours car to car. Led P2 and P4. Second clean P1, P3 and P5. Good climbing in the adventurous style (read: some gardening pitches) but probably not as good as its reputation.P1 and P2 are rubbish, but P3 and P5 are genuinely good climbing. P4 is a choose your own adventure (I chose a hard looking thin crack system which was fun but a bit dangerous).
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16 | ★★★ Sealevel Traverse - with Vladi Eileen | 600m | Freycinet National Park | ★ Good | Mon 8th Feb 2016 | |||
Solo'd all the section until past the swim, but the recent megastorm meant an easy slab (after all the graded climbing) was too wet and muddy to solo, so we did some very bolt roped-traversing. Couldn't get past a section following at all, tried to traverse above, and got stuck bush-bashing for about 3 hours trying to get back down to sea level. A great adventure with great friends. A few bits of actual climbing, lots of dodgy scrambling, ocean swimming, and getting lost... Fun in hindsight?
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16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 11th May 2015 | |||
With Rob. Onsight P1 & P2 (linked), Clean 2nd P3, Onsight P4. Classic at the grade, but not AS classic as its reputation had led me to expect. A nice variety of styles and gear. The 2 bolts are a bit depressing to see, and there are some loose blocks.
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16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 11th May 2015 | |||
With Rob. Onsight P1, clean 2nd P2 (bloody scary glassy slabbing IN THE RAIN), Onsight P3. Great slabbing, with much better gear than I expected on all pitches (and no, we didnt use tricams) though there were a few safe but exciting runouts. Just genuinely good climbing.
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16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Apr 2013 | |||
Onsight P1 and most of P2 (linked). Second clean the last 15m of pitch 2. Pretty good, but quite tricky for the grade if you follow the crack system the whole way, and the gear is rather widely spaced. Good climbing, but despite the grade I wouldn't recommend this as a beginner lead.
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16 | ★★ The Iliad | 87m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 1st Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. P1 only to get to the ledge at the start of P2. P2 was then climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start for the FA of that pitch. The first pitch has cleaned up nicely, and was genuinely pleasant to lead.
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16 | ★★ Knight's Mare | 130m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 28th Jul 2013 | |||
Climbed at EOD to escape the crag with heavy packs (alpine style!). Multiple guide descriptions don't seem to match the climb. A bit adventurous and vegetated. The super-exposed traverse is great, but the worryingly runout, tricky, manky corner system after it is scary. Good, not great. P1 & P2 of SD (linked) - Neil; P3 (shortened to belay at tree at half length) - Me; P4 (to huge ledge above chimney) - Neil; P5 & P6 (linked - traverse, then up corner system) - Me.
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16 | Exit route | 60m | Fortescue Bay | Average | Tue 6th Jan 2015 | |||
With Gene to escape the Moai. Onsight P1, clean 2nd P2. Not as bad climbing as you might expect for an exit climb. P1 is an easy runout (slightly loose) ramble, and P2 is a pleasant series of cracks, and quote easy for the grade.
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16 | ★ The Moai Escape (The Moai Eascape.) | 60m | Fortescue Bay | Average | Sun 10th Jan 2016 | |||
Repeat. With Scotty Wearin. Lead as a giant 60m pitch... Though the rope drag isnt too bad, a fall on the gr16 pitch will put you back on the ledge for sure with rope stretch and slack, so I don't recommend it. Not too terrible as far as Exit Climbs go.
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5.8 5.8 II | ★★★ Dark Shadows - with James | 100m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | |||
Deserves its rep as a CLASSIC. A quick Red Rocks sampler of this classic before heading into the desert. Onsight P1 and P3, 2nd clean P2 and P4. I chose not to clip bolts on P1 (I wanted to do this climb all on gear), so essentially solo'd the thin 5.5 slab. P2 is short but with some cool moves up the initial corner, and a funky traverse left. P3 is the money, featuring 40m of awesome varied.corner and face climbing on gear. P4 is pumpy at the grade, but fairly straightforward crack climbing.
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5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite (Nutcracker) | 180m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Wed 16th Sep 2015 | |||
With Stephen. Onsight P1, P3 and P5; 2nd clean P2 and P4. Quite sustained and so polished as to be utterly frictionless. Great climbing, surprisingly demanded, and without any boring bits. The "crux" mantle felt grades easier than sections of P1 and P3. Stoked to finally get on this classic.
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16 14 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams - with Heath Black | 130m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Jan 2017 | |||
Another repeat, this time via the Narcolepsy (gr16) finish. With Neil Monteith and Simon Carter, the 8th and final route of Neil's 11hr 30min 1112m climbed #40pitches40years . In the full sun, and as a group of 3 at the end of the long day, we climbed it in 1.5hrs of time on route. Fun and easy, and a laugh with mates (even if it was 1,000,000 degrees celsius). And a great end to the day.
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16 8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape | 300m | Cape Raoul | ★ Good | Mon 12th Jan 2015 | |||
With Gene. Access shenanigans but it's all part of the overall experience, and the position (and the seals) are outrageous!
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16 | ★ Stuffed | 66m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jan 2014 | |||
Another lap on Second to get back Thanjon's gear. Still not too bad at the grade. Slippery!
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VS 4c | ★★★ Hargreave's Original Route | 16m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th May 2013 | |||
Looked good (watching another climber on it), and the conditions were great. The longest route I've ever solo'd in terms of distance, though quite easy. Sustained at the (easy) grade, and would be an awesome beginners lead.
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16 | ★★ Blood, Sweat and Tears | 40m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th May 2013 | |||
Secinding No-Chalk Rob. Very good value, but tough at the grade. 17 as per the new guide is probably correct. Sustained, with a great variety of movement. A MUST if you can climb the grade.
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16 | ★★★ Satans Smokestack | 40m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th May 2013 | |||
Fun getting back on this 2 years after it spanked me and spat me back out. Didnt feel too hard this time, though i wouldnt say i enjoyed it. Definitely unique, its just a shame the start is so dicey.
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16 | ★★ Drop-out Direct Finish | 7m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Aug 2011 | |||
August 2011.
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Dec 2010 | |||
13 December 2010. First 2 pitches only.
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16 | ★★★ Tol - with Heath Black | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Dec 2016 | |||
Seconding Neil. A bloody classic route up an inspiring, soaring line... Sure, the exit pitch is grotty, barely protectable and snappy, but even it cannot detract from the spectacular first 40m of crack-climbing bliss. Rather challenging at the grade.
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16 | ★ Crackle | 30m | Blue Mountains | Average | Wed 1st Dec 2010 | |||
01 Dec 2010.
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16 | ★ Sooty Shaft | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 16th Dec 2012 | |||
Seconded Rob on the first ascent. Layback the off-width! Long climb with an entertaining change in headspace once you step off the top of the pillar and head-up the headwall.
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16 | ★ Graveyard Shift | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 4th Nov 2012 | |||
Seconded Rob on the first ascent. A diagonal off-width with almost no off-width climbing. A bit thrutchy, with some nice face moves in the middle.
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16 | ★ The Wedding Cake Return Pitch | 35m | Cape Raoul | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Jan 2015 | |||
Climbed the middle off-width from the halfway point to the top. Scarily wet and concerning without any big gear to protect it, but Gene kept it together for the send. Okay climbing... rad position.
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5.8 | ★★ Church Bowl Lieback | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Sep 2015 | |||
Seconding Stephen. The moves might be yosemite 5.8, but the crack and footers are slippery as glass. Felt harder. Good, well protected friction slab laybacking.
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Showing all 43 ascents.