Help

Ascents by Christoph Rauch

Searching in:

Ascent filters:

-

Route filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,911 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Difficulty
Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Schüsselkarspitze
Südwand Hauptwand
7- Südostwand (Peters-Haringer)

Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.

- with Jeni
1 5 lead by Jeni
2 6 lead by Christoph Rauch
3 7- lead by Jeni
4 6+ lead by Christoph Rauch
5 7- lead by Christoph Rauch
Trad 400m
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Scharnitzspitze
6- A0 Spitzenstätter

Fantastic route with a single, short crux and otherwise brilliant, easy climbing. The approach, however, was horrendously painful due to the snow. None of us had been here before, so we couldn't make out where the path would be and somehow made our way up to the wall through the snow. The first pitch is bolted in a way that allows to avoid the wet crack at the start and is quite easy, so we linked it with the second pitch, which is already the crux (which is also how it is entered here). After a marvellous traverse along a big flake, the line of bolts indicates to go up straight, but I couldn't find a way to climb this for the grade. Maybe I was just too exhausted from the approach already, but after grabbing the draw and pulling myself up, I realized there's a juggy yet chossy flake two meters to the right, which allows you to gain the jugs. After this section, keep left for the belay on the big flake. The next pitch is a glorious traverse on a massive flake, followed by steep, juggy dihedral and wall climbing. Another longish pitch through left-leaning dihedrals gets you directly in the line of the big roof, which is reached via another nice, slabby pitch (or two, depending on the topo). Manoeuvering the weakness in the roof is astonishingly easy (hip flexibility is helpful, nevertheless). It's hard to communicate with your partner from the next belay, so it's best to clarify signals before the runout. The last pitch is a nice chimney/dihedral (my partner got fooled and went to the right into terribly chossy terrain after the chock stone, though, so I had to go there and back to clean the gear). The descent is adventurous to say the least. If there's snow, prepare for some more belaying.

- with Jeni
1 6- A0 lead by Christoph Rauch
2 5+ lead by Jeni
3 6- lead by Christoph Rauch
5 5+ lead by Jeni
7 5- lead by Christoph Rauch
8 4 lead by Jeni
Trad 200m Classic
Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Almoser Wand
7- Der Ungeheuer sei Bastard

Funny overhanging crack dihedral. Not easy to find the right position. Once you're out in the vertical part, it's over. Good placements all the way.

- with Torsten
Trad 12m Good
7 IJZ

A nice climb in superb rock. Quite delicate and not too easy for the grade.

- with Torsten
Sport 12m Very Good
7 ASC Weg - with Torsten Sport 14m Very Good
8 Morgenstern

Had the second bolt pre-clipped. The passage to the third bolt is tricky and bouldery. Didn't want to give it another go today after yesterday's exhausting attempts, even though it's quite short.

- with Torsten
Sport 12m
Fri 16th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rolandfels
7- Fleisch ist mein Gemüse

A little uninspired on the left. Over the bulge on sharp holds, then diagonally up along with the other routes through partly chossy, partly vegetated rock.

- with KP
Sport 25m Average
6+ Für Lea

A little better than the route on the left, already a good deal of polish on the holds.

- with KP
Sport 25m, 8 Average
8+ Die Vollendung

Messed up the lower crux over the first overhang, barely made it to the cave again. Rested, once again, for ages, pulled up into the overhang, reached the final crimps, but couldn't find the right body position to reach up to the final jug … bummer.

- with KP
Sport 27m
8+ Die Vollendung

I tried really hard onsighting this, because two beers were wagered by my friends in case I managed it. So I desperately clung to the wall, taking at least a few minutes to find a solution for the crux, arrived in the big cave below the final overhang totally drained. Luckily, you can sit there and relax for ages … and promptly sent my glasses down the wall when I took off my helmet. After that rest, I felt a confident that I would be able to finish it, but once you climb into that overhang, there's no turning back. I reached the two sharp crimps just before the anchor, but had no strength left whatsoever to do another move …

- with KP
Sport 27m
Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand
8+ 8+/9- Monsun

Just had to #repeat it again. Got some beta from the ground since it's been a while, but I probably wouldn't have needed it, all fell into place anyway. The finish felt totally easy today, my crack skills definitely improved massively.

- with Bigi
Sport 20m, 7 Classic
9- Flip Flap

Still couldn't figure out how to climb the crux. Had the second bolt preclipped, though, so I was able to pull myself up to the jugs and enjoy the beautiful slab above (around 7+?).

- with KP
Sport 20m, 6
6 Schinderriss

Easy direct finish to "Oberngruber Weg". Chimney climber's warmup for this crag.

- with KP
Sport 16m, 2 Good
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right
7 BB-Riss

Terrific crack dihedral. The lower part looks intimidating, but it's actually the very finish that almost threw me off. The start can be climbed as a shoulder crack (left arm in) and isn't harder than, say, 6. Then a few meters of good jamming get you up into the dihedral, the size of the footholds decreasing in proportion to the height. Then all of a sudden the jams end and you're left standing on eggshells with barely a hold. There's a good hold out on the right, but that one's hard to spot if you're folded into the dihedral like I was. Managed to stay on the wall and got rewarded with a glory jug in the finishing crack (which is easier). Certainly a test piece (and probably harder than 7?).

- with asn
Sport 14m Very Good
6+ Bognerwandl

Quite polished, relatively short, straightforward. The original route apparently went to the left before the top to the last bolt of "Mantlewand".

- with asn
Sport 10m Average
6 Iron Fist

Difficult passage to get past the single bolt in the lower part. The bolt on the left (above the belay bolt in the little alcove) in the upper part is misleading, the better holds are on the right (and the route goes up on the right according to old guide books, anyway). Good climbing, a little bold.

- with asn
Sport 20m Good
6- Bamberger Pfeiler

Good wall climbing, didn't feel too easy for the grade. A cam or nut after the first bolt is sensible, crux is after the second bolt.

- with asn
Sport 18m Good
7- Blizzard

Athletic climbing at the left end of the overhang. A little forced in the upper part, you're naturally drawn to the left.

- with asn
Sport 14m Good
5+ Betzensteiner Verschneidung

Beautiful dihedral, a little polished despite the fact that you have to protect the lower part yourself. Good placements, though. Easy if you're good on your feet. Up the chimney and wall to the left of the big ring at the end.

- with asn
Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Schauertaler Turm
7- Toni Kurz Gedenkweg, rechter Ausstieg

Can't call this an onsight since I knew most of the route. Also, it's quite hard to find the place where you go to the right. I probably missed the point and traversed in from a bit higher up. I think I like the left-hand variant better, since you don't have to crawl up the chossy ledge. Both variants are impressive routes, though. I still think the crux is at the third bolt.

- with Jenni
Sport 35m Good
Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Streitberger Schild
7 Südwestkante

Marvellous. I had already forgotten how tricky the two crux sections were, so almost an onsight. The original start is great, solid rock from start to finish.

- with Jenni
Sport 30m Classic
7+ Arnoldplatte light

Messed up the sequence through the rooflet once again (used the wrong "jug" for the right hand, which isn't such a jug at all) and fell. Good for me, though, because the cruxy slab section up top is a tough puzzle.

- with Jenni
Sport 25m Good
7+ Arnoldplatte light

The rooflet went easily once again. Still had to think twice before committing to the last move in the slab, though.

- with Jenni
Sport 25m Good
6 Erdenkäuferriss

Summited for the #warmup (as if I wasn't already warm from the searing sun). Always a pleasure.

- with Jenni
Sport 25m Good
Tue 30th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Große Wacht
5 Wachtroute

One of the oldest routes here. Drives out left from the third bolt of "Seelendoping" into "Vergissmeinnicht". The original line then goes up and left into the dihedral (rusty peg) and through the crack to the top. Climbed up this way, but there's no anchor and it's quite mossy, so I backtracked and went up the pockety finish of "Vergissmeinnicht" instead (maybe a little harder this way).

- with mb
Mixed trad 15m, 3
8+ Abgestaubt

Slipped off the footholds after the traverse twice, so I hung freely on the jugs for a good while before trying to go on. Funnily enough, my intuition about the next hold was just right, but apparently I didn't get it in the right way. I could still pull my right foot up, but nothing more. Tried a bit to the right afterwards, but you'll end up in another route this way, so I went for the first version, which worked. Tricky at the top, the last few moves can still throw you off!

- with mb
Sport 20m Good
8+ Abgestaubt

Quite smooth. Didn't even bother to get my feet onto the slippery footholds after the traverse and just continued without a rest.

- with mb
Sport 20m Good
7- 7 Sportflieger

Nice pocket climb, probably easier than 7. Especially compared to its namesake at "Glatte Wand". Only one or two difficult moves, just below the anchor.

- with mb
Sport 20m Good
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Roter Turm
6 Nordwand

Returned the book to the summit, after I had damaged it in January (stupid me). I assume nobody would have missed the book, but hey … I still think the start is the hardest part; I guess that originally, you would have started sharp at the arête, which is mossy but probably easier.

- with bk201
Trad 15m Very Good
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Mostvieler Talwand
7 Schönwetterkämpfer

The start is stupid (or something broke off). I suggest to climb the direct start of "Alter Weg" instead, the routes merge after the first bolt, anyway, then split again after the second. Good climbing from the ledge along the big crack structure. Lots of choss on the way, the route tries to avoid some of it, but not all. The detour into the wall on the right seems a little forced, but actually makes everything more homogeneous and cover more chossless (is that a word?) rock. The top is quite athletic, but again on dubious structures.

- with Markus Benning
Sport 24m Average
7+ Alter Weg

Great layback climbing with a crux before the book case. A small cam and/or nut is sensible before the third bolt. Towards the top, you need to step to the right onto a massive hollow block. Feels a bit weird, but it seems to be solid enough.

- with Markus Benning
Sport 20m Good
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Erlanger Felsentor
8- Superschneck

The choss is there, no question, but the climbing is pretty elegant and most of the blocky stuff has already been ripped off, so you're left with relatively solid structures. One bolt in the middle sits in a hollow section of rock, though, a little suboptimal but no deal-breaker I guess. The crux comes high up, around the last bolt. Quite homogeneous, nice route.

- with Markus Benning
Sport 20m Very Good
7+ 7+/8- Close to the Edge

The bolts sit in the wrong places on this one, maybe so that they're not so close to the ones of "Superschneck" (or the rock quality wasn't good enough further left). Makes it a bit confusing, though, I always tried to go direct or on the right first, then had to back up and succeed on the left. Again the crux is up high, technical wall section with an awesome undercling move.

- with Markus Benning
Sport 20m Good
6+ Alter Talweg

Long traverse after the first bolt (if you start from the right as intended, the direct start has another bolt), over two bolts around the corner, then two more bolts and up onto the ledge to a belay. Keep left at the next (new) bolt, then up over two overhangs to a final black slab. Well-protected. A little choss here and there in the upper part and some cruxy sections at the overhangs. Worthwhile.

- with Markus Benning
1 6+ 25 lead by Christoph Rauch
2 6+ 25 lead by Markus Benning
Sport 50m Very Good
Fri 26th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Sprungstein
5+ Südostkante

Originally climbed as a variant of "Ostwand", this one obtained a direct start via two bolts, which is again the crux of the route. From the cave of "Ostwand" out left onto the arête and in good, enjoyable rock to the top (with a little overhang at the end, if you go directly).

- with mb
Sport 30m Very Good
5 Ostwand

Great easy climbing, the only part that might reach the fifth grade are the first one or two moves. From then on it's quite a pleasure on big holds (well, the stink of the dormouse droppings in the big cave is rather unpleasant, I admit) following the big features of the east face.

- with mb
Sport 30m Very Good
4 Westkante

The "jump" at the start (I didn't really jump, but rather let myself fall over to the other side) is of course the highlight of this one, but the rest is rad easy climbing, too. It's quite vegetated, sure, but the important holds are available. Only the big ledge before the finish along the arête is a bit too overgrown for my taste.

Sport 20m Very Good
Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Sachsenturm
5+ Talkamin - with Revo Sport 36m Very Good
Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Sittenbachtal Rabenstein
7- Haidlinger Weg

Memorable route. Cruxy bulge at the beginning, then a beautiful traverse to the left, a short walk along the ledge and then a powerful, slightly overhanging finish.

- with mb
Sport 30m Very Good
9- Schonungslose

Got to the second to last bolt before the roof, prepared for a reachy move to a jug, but didn't put enough juice into it. Couldn't recover from that move, so I had to rest. After the move, you can easily clip, but there's another boulder awaiting. I don't even want to know how to get over the roof, but I could imagine that it might be easier than the part before. Tried a few things but had to give up because it got dark. The lower half (I assume part of "Donnerdach") is already quite challenging, felt hard for 7+/8-.

- with mb
Sport 25m
2 Bergseite

↑↓

Trad 8m Good
Wed 17th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Erlanger Felsentor
2 Bergseite Trad 8m
3 Südkamin

Trad 10m
3 Felsentorkamin

Nice chimney, second pitch of "Linker Nordriss", but in principle accessible by walking in from the back through the "Felsentor".

- with bk201
Trad 10m Good
4+ Linker Nordriss

Great crack/chimney line. The bolts in the upper part have been added later, but they aren't really necessary if you stick to the chimney in the back. Enjoyable. Second pitch is either of the easy routes to the top, we chose the chimney directly above the end of this one.

- with bk201
Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Bärensteinwände
3- R13

Sport 8m, 1
4- R12

Sport 8m, 3
3+ R11

Sport 8m, 4
4- R10

Sport 10m, 4
6 R5

Good pocket climb.

Sport 10m Good
5 Old Wabble

↑↓ Great pockets that allow climbing the grade in this steepness.

Sport 12m Very Good
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Rabenecker Wand
8+ Heart of Stone

Looks huge from below, and no surprises there. Spaced bolts, crux is a long hard passage in the first part (before the no-hands rest). Spans from the red rock in the lower wall over the chimney, around the corner (hard to reach bolt, you wouldn't want to fall there, once the quickdraw is in I could easily clip it) into a white and gray headwall with easier, but more delicate and even slabby climbing, but to top it off, there's a final overhang and I had to dyno the very last move (make sure to clean the target hold before an attempt).

- with bk201
Sport 30m
6+ Rabenecker Weg

Can only be climbed if you have a second. Fantastic black rock up the east face, then around the corner and up to a rusty peg. Don't be fooled by the book case above you, this is from "Naturfreundevariante", which doesn't have Bühler bolts yet. Instead, traverse to the right (some bolts) through great rock to a narrow ledge. If you don't want to crawl up over the last two ledges, you can lower off from the last Bühler onto another narrow ledge, then slip through the window into the chimney to get back to the start.

- with Ellen, thedark
Sport 30m Classic
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schrollwand
6- Südwestwand

Delicate start up and left on hollow flakes to a peg (good red cam as backup), then up left to a nice hand crack (another peg in the upper third of the crack). From there it's completely overgrown, had to swing from tree to tree to the top.

- with bk201
Trad 20m
Fri 12th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Kapuziner
5 Talseite

Accidentally started into "Linke Talseite", but then switched back early enough to end up at the first ring (it's a bit vegetated, though, when done like this ). The upper part is still great, though. #repeat

- with asn
Mixed trad 25m, 2 Very Good
Fri 12th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Nebelsteiner Wand
5+ Dreierweg

Quite neglected, unfortunately. After all, it's a well-protected route in the lower grade range. We gave it a good brush today and uncovered some of the necessary footholds. Slab start, then a short, tricky overhang and jug finish.

- with asn
Sport 24m, 6 Good
8- Smoothoperator

Quite solid for 8-, but I'm not talking about the rock quality. Splintery after the first bolt (of the route proper), but rapidly improving. The bolt spacing is perfect, but airy. Well, as long as there are bolts. The last third or so, when climbed directly up, was kept unbolted. Most people probably bail out to the right into "Direkte Nebelsteiner", but the direct line is really worthwhile, with lots of jugs and a few decent placements (tricams might be great).

- with asn
Mixed trad 27m, 5 Very Good
5+ Alte Nebelsteiner

The first route here, with two possible finish options. Starts in the obvious crack in the east face, up onto the vibrating flake, then at the big old ring, a hard move to the right gets you onto the slab and into the traverse. From there, the original route leads up in the crack around the corner, but that finish was even eliminated from the guidebook in the later editions, because the other one is "easier" (but involves a rope tension downwards traverse into "Schwedenriss", so … well …). This original finish has been equipped with Bühler bolts and an anchor, also leading to confusion in the guidebooks. The crack might be a little harder than 5+ by today's standards, but still fun. All in all a great journey. Can be done in one pitch if the gear is properly extended.

- with asn
Sport 35m Very Good
8 Roofoperator

Really tricky, pumpy and probably hasn't been climbed in a good while (at least not to up to the anchor), partly because the wall is rarely visited anyway, and partly because the guidebooks got a few things confused. I'm pretty sure that Roofoperator is the route that starts to the left of "Schwedenriss", then drives left onto the arête, up onto the slab (small old ring bolt of "Alte Nebelsteiner") and then slightly left and up directly into the overhang. Exhausted myself trying to figure out a beta on the fly. It boils down to two reachy, athletic moves for me, the first one slightly dynamic. From the good sidepull pocket after the last bolt, it's another reachy, but easier move up. Had to dig out all the jugs below the anchor under huge piles of dirt, but now it should be climbable. Time ran out, so I couldn't give it another shot.

- with asn
Sport 20m Good
Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Frankendorf Annasteinseite
3 Hosenträgerkamin

Yep, it's a chimney. A grimy one at that. Probably hasn't seen an ascent in the last 30 or so years. The later Bühler guidebooks got the description wrong, there's no chock that can be passed inside or out; what is meant is the big block at the end of the chimney, which can be attacked from the left or the right (modern climbing technique and rubber shoes allow for the obvious third option …). No anchor, the chimney runs out into the forest to the hiking path. It's a loooong way down. It's probably best to bring a rope, then abseil from the viewpoint you reach when going left on the hiking trail.

Trad 18m
Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Frankendorf Annastein
6- Nordriss

I actually wanted to do the easiest route up, which supposedly is "Südwand". I highly doubt that this route has anything to do with UIAA 3, more like 3 A0 with human pyramid, and a good deal of boldness. This crack, however, is a nice, straightforward climb with some jams to rest and relatively good holds overall. Quite short, of course. #jahreserste2022

- with Revo
Sport 10m, 2 Good
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right
8- Hintermayer Gedenkweg

Easy start to the big ledge. The overhanging dihedral is tricky to manoeuvre, with dropknees and some wide bridging you can get the weight off your hands somewhat, though. Athletic finish on the big sidepulls. Nice one, although a bit short.

- with Markus Benning
Sport 14m Very Good
4 Nürnberger Weg

Great line that has seen a good deal of sweaty hands and dirty feet, judging by the polish. Juggy enough to deal with, though. The only tricky part is the start of the upper part into the slightly overhanging dihedral (the second pitch, so to speak). Nice little narrow chimney at the end.

- with Revo
Sport 23m Very Good
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Left
4+ R2

Easy stroll up to the dihedral, then nice bridging with good holds up to a sling and left to the anchor.

- with asn
Sport 18m Good
7- Föhrenpfeiler

Interesting wall climbing in compact rock. Sloping pockets demand good footwork (impeded by slightly greasy footholds) and balance.

- with Markus Benning
Sport 18m Good
6+ Marienpfeiler

Would almost deserve a classic rating, maybe if it was in a more exposed position high up the hill or something. :-D Easy start up the dihedral, then a slightly delicate traverse to the right (it's best to leave out the Bühler bolt above the big hollow flake and extend the next bolt). The bolt in the overhang seems far, but there's a jug in the crack to clip from, so go for it. Powerful crack moves (if you can jam, it's easier) past a rusty ring (didn't clip it) to jugs at the upper edge.

- with asn
Sport 20m Very Good
5+ BB-Wandl

Nice, homogeneous wall, ever so slightly slabby, with lots of big pockets and solid ribs.

Sport 18m Very Good
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Betzensteiner Turm
4+ Bergseite

↑↓

Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
4+ Talseite

Nice, juggy slab.

Sport 15m Good
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein
7 Teufelsriss

Climbed the route as originally intended to the summit (via the big north face ledge and the old north face route as second pitch). 30 meters of brilliant climbing.

- with KP
Sport 30m Classic
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Fexenstein
4 Alter Weg

Surprisingly easy and in good rock. Traverses around the corner from the middle of the south face.

- with KP
Trad 15m Very Good
6+ 5- A1 Südwand

Short, difficult crack, then extremely crumbly rock above (but with an interesting, unusual composition, lots of quartz crystals), also with some bigger hollow structures.

- with KP
Aid 10m Don't Bother
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Sachsenmühler Nordwand
5 Nordwestkante - with KP Mixed trad 18m, 2 Very Good
6- Linker V-Riss

Clean crack, one pre-threaded rock tunnel. Not easy to protect, big cams are helpful. Threaded a nut through a rock tunnel since I didn‘t have a thin sling with me. Good climbing in perfect rock.

- with KP
Trad 24m Good
6- Rechter V-Riss

A little easier to protect due to the chock stones. Also good climbing, a little more on the offwidth side. Both cracks felt stiff in the grade, like all routes here.

- with KP
Trad 22m Good
5+ Linke Kaminkante - with KP Mixed trad 18m, 2 Very Good
Fri 5th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Geheimbund
7- Swingerloch

Good, short warmup. Technical slab start, then slightly hard to read overhang.

- with mb
Sport 12m, 3
7- Finger Weg, Pommesfresser

#barefoot ascent due to lazyness. Powerful start, then slab. Soft version of „Balkanplatte“.

- with mb
Sport 14m
8+ Balkanplatte

Didn‘t spot a hold above the second bolt quick enough. Lowered immediately and tried again. Short boulder over the bulge, then easier slab.

- with mb
Sport 14m Good
8- 8 Sturzprophylaxe

Wall and technical dihedral up to the last third, then a nice balancy boulder to the top.

- with mb
Sport 12m Good
Fri 5th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Kanzelstein
6+ 7- Eibenkamin

Awkward offwidth in the beginning, then narrow chimney, nice squeeze-through behind the chock stone. The chimney widens above, after a few meters of stemming to the bolt, you need to get out into the overhang, which is probably why it‘s graded 7-. Apparently, you can squeeze through another narrow tunnel in the back, which is certainly what the first ascensionists did in 1916. Looked quite stuffed with leaves and dirt, though, so no choice here at the moment.

- with Julia
Sport 15m Very Good
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Almoser Wand
6+ Almosen

I was under the impression that this had been boltless before, so I decided to greenpoint it. Good, albeit short, wall climbing.

- with mb
Sport 10m Good
7- Kante

Nice little arête, the vegetation in your back is a little distracting.

- with mb
Sport 10m Good
8+ Helis Idee

Climbed the lower part without further ado. Nice to see that I seemingly got better since 2015. ;-) Took my time to get through the nice middle part, then decided to take the left finish as described in the Schwertner guide (which is apparently wrong, but climbs nicely), rushed it a bit and got myself stuck a meter below the anchor.

- with mb
Sport 14m Very Good
8+ Helis Idee

Flowy.

- with mb
Sport 14m Very Good
7 ASC Weg

Great line in perfect rock. No real crack technique necessary, unfortunately. ;-)

- with mb
Sport 14m Very Good
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Schneeberg
Rudolfstein-Gruppe Rudolfstein
6 Schräger Otto

One of the most striking lines here, a leaning crack through the whole face. Wide hand crack to the first bolt, then a tricky section up to the point where you can dive into the crack. From there it gets easier, but always interesting 3d climbing. One or two cams in between the bolts are sensible, especially because you need to extend some bolts (they are quite far back). The last few meters are again quite challenging. Fun route!

- with bk201
Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
7+ Direkter Köterweg

Got shut down pretty badly here. Managed to reach the second bolt, gorgeous athletic climbing up to that point. Then it becomes unclear where to go. I tried to go directly up and right to the bolt in the lip of the roof, but failed miserably. The line in the topo suggests traversing to the right at that point already (marginal jams, probably super hard without crack gloves or tape), so that's what I ended up doing, but the rope is zigzagging its way at that point already, so I had to backtrack and extend the bolt on the left. Reaching the bolt in the lip from there can be done, but it's tough, too. Another bulge awaits, with strenuous layback moves leading into yet another desperate jam and a weird frog-mode traverse to the right. There you can slowly get up, lean your back against the protruding block and slowly push yourself up. The final slab is dirty and overgrown with lichen. In total, it's a really good route, very unusual and pumpy.

- with bk201
Sport 20m
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Schneeberg
Rudolfstein-Gruppe Treppenstein Treppenstein-Westwand
6+ Westwand (3. GT)

Awesome, elegant wall climbing with good protection. I was told it was graded 7 and was surprised that it felt almost like a Frankenjura route of that grade, maybe even a little on the easy side. Seeing here that it's actually considered 6+ makes more sense.

- with bk201
Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
2+ Westkamin (3. GT)

Nice chimney with big holds.

Sport 10m Good
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Schneeberg
Rudolfstein-Gruppe Treppenstein Treppenstein-Ostwand
4+ Direkte Südkante

4+ probably only up to the big ledge with the belay anchor. Gaining the summit is pretty tricky, involving a fist jam and a high step. I sunk my left leg into the horizontal crack to be able to reach up to the next lip. Done with support in the early days, hard for small people. The lower part is relatively straightforward, except for the last two meters, where you have to step out to the right (slightly exposed) to reach the big hold around the corner.

- with bk201
Trad 15m Good
5+ Optische Täuschung

The start felt so brutally hard for the grade that I couldn't believe I was climbing the right route. Sat in my cam and lowered, then reviewed the literature, realized it was the right line, and tried again (the cams can be placed from the ground). You have to press hard on a sloper to gain the rib above the crack, so the hardest move is before the first bolt. Once clipped, it gets a little easier, but still pumpy. Very elegant climbing, though.

- with bk201
Mixed trad 15m, 3 Good
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Toni Schmid Gedenkwand
9- Mambo Cavallero

Great endurance piece. Not exactly the best conditions, the greasy holds in the first overhang were sweating quite a bit. Didn't realize I had to hook at the rooflet, climbed up into a dead end and dropped off. The foothook beta is quite nice, and probably also a little easier when the grip is better. Crux starts at the big, round pocket. The direct variant, which is rarely climbed, seems to be quite brutal. Most people veer to the right, which feels a bit awkward, but that I could manage as well. Easier climbing in great rock to the top, with a nice runout to the anchor.

- with Ellen
Sport 18m, 7
9- Mambo Cavallero

Got to the round pocket before the crux, then made a fuss. The crux seems a little harder on top rope, too. ;-) Or maybe I was just tired.

- with Ellen
Sport 18m, 7
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Holzgauer Wand Left
6- Ostriss

Great line, good rock, solid #warmup. Not too easy to the first bolt, and quite airy to the top (you can thread a small nut through a key-hole pocket above the last bolt if you're feeling insecure).

- with David X
Sport 15m Very Good
6- 6 Linke Verschneidung

Nice, straightforward dihedral, the hardest part is the overlap in the beginning. Good rock. A little shorter than the other routes here.

- with David X
Sport 15m Good
5+ Alte Südostwand

The first line here. Might look a little contrived from today's perspective, with the traverse and all, but it's probably really the easiest way up. Back in the day, it was also probably completely solid. Nowadays, the big flake in the traverse is vibrating quite heavily (this also applies to "Angst im Nacken", maybe this is where the name comes from?) and you shouldn't put too much load onto it, even though it's wedged in from the top. Otherwise great, easy climbing.

- with Ellen
Sport 23m Good
8+ Ostwand

Quite a hard boulder up to the second bolt (used to be easier, a hold supposedly broke). You can probably clip the first one, but falling into it would be a bit nasty, so it's best to pre-clip the second. Beautiful wall climbing on small pockets from the second bolt up to the overhang, then it suddenly gets really strenuous again. Quite a few tricky moves in the end, I was lucky that my final crossover move ended up in a monstrous jug, otherwise I would have dropped off just below the anchor. (Flashed the upper part, had to do the boulder at the bottom two or three times.)

- with Ellen
Sport 20m Very Good
Fri 29th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Neidecker Wand
6- Karl-Schawelka-Gedenkweg Ausstiegsvariante

Beautiful chimney climbing to a ledge. I actually wanted to climb the original line; I was already starting the traverse when the rain set in and I realized just how chossy that traverse is. Not sure if anyone ever freed that thing, because it's quite dangerous. Rope tension is certainly the way to go here. The dihedral variant on the left looked dry, easy and solid, so I backtracked a bit and went that way. When I reached the belay, the rain was already quite strong and I got soaked. When it's dry, you can walk up on the left and climb over the castle wall, but due to the rain we had to abseil diagonally from the tree, back into the chimney, which worked nicely.

- with Harald
Mixed trad 30m, 3 Good
7+ A0 Rechter Weg

Great first pitch in sublime rock. Knew the dihedral already from "Verbindungsweg". The traverse from the big rock tunnel to the right is also beautiful and easy. Second pitch starts off with tough boulder moves away from the ledge. Doesn't get much easier from there, but the rock is good and the protection is also fine (there's even a little tree to wrap a sling around in addition to the Bühler bolts and pegs). I aided a few sections, then retreated at the Bühler bolt on the next little ledge, since it was raining and the top part is chossy and was already quite wet. I'll gladly come back to finish the second pitch (and freely, too!).

- with Harald
1 6 18 lead by Christoph Rauch
2 7+ A0 12 lead by Christoph Rauch
Sport 30m, 5 Good

Showing 1 - 100 out of 4,911 ascents.