Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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6b |
★★ Aquaduct (Aquaduct P1)
- with
Nastya
1
6b
| 38m | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Apr 2016 | |||
Feels hard for the grade, but maybe it's just the slightly hidden holds.
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7+ | ★★ Veilchen - with KP | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Mar 2024 | |||
7 7+ | ★ Holiday on Ice - with Bovist | 17m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 31st May 2018 | |||
I somewhat cheated the hard moves in the beginning by just jumping up after grabbing the good hold in the crack. The real fun waits at the end in the form of a nice offwidth crack.
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7 7+ | ★ Meier Gedenkweg, Direkter Ausstieg - with KP | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | |||
Nice crack line, much easier if you know how to jam. Crux in the middle, where the crack is too shallow to jam, so you need to use the small holds in the wall. Felt more like 7, a good deal easier (and far less pumpy) than "Peitsche".
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7 7+ | ★★ Running Up That Hill - with David X | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | |||
The best route here I would say. Phenomenal pocketed overhang with a little two-move boulder problem in the beginning. Might be 7+ if you climb up to the top, which is probably hardly ever done.
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7 7+ | ★ Anschlag - with Matthias Felix | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 27th Jun 2023 | |||
Nice flowy line (if you find it; not sure if I branched off correctly). The top section is great climbing, but didn't feel like 7+ to me.
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7 7+ | ★★ Zweite Wahl - with Alex | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Dec 2020 | |||
Logical finish to the classic "Grünbauer Gedenkweg". The top section didn't feel much harder than the cruxy parts of Grünbauer, so I'd say it's around 7-/7. Great exposure. Pretty cold today, good to have the cave in the middle to warm up your hands …
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7 7+ | ★ Gegenwind - with Teresa | 6m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 14th Apr 2018 | |||
More a highball boulder than a route, but cool Frankenjura jugs.
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7 7+ | ★★★ Zur Schönen Aussicht - with Teresa | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Jun 2015 | |||
7 7+ | ★★ Unnamed 1 - with Daniel | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | |||
Similar to "Kumulus", but a little less exposed. Didn't find it much harder either.
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7 7+ | ★★ Profilneurose - with Simon | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Dec 2018 | |||
Somehow overlooked the last bolt, so it felt quite run out for a #warmup But other than that, nice route, easier to the right of the bolts.
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7 7+ | ★ Nuller für Schnuller - with Daniel | 8m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Aug 2015 | |||
7 7+ | ★★ Corazón - with Teresa | 36m, 15 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Oct 2018 | |||
Feels neverending, but actually never tiring, there are quite a few ledges to rest. Great, varied route with fantastic view from the top.
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7 7+ | ★★ Barfuß - with Daniel | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jun 2020 | |||
The hardest part can be circumvented by going up in the crack to the right. I tried to stay in the wall from the second bolt on (seemed too hard even for 7+ between the first and second). No chalk on the holds, so it's a bit hard to read, but there's always a good crimper hidden somewhere. Nice line! Careful, the big block on top is just standing there, better don't climb it.
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7 7+ | ★★ WS-Weg - with Daniel | 18m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | |||
Astonishingly good holds and quite solid rock. Great, sensible traverse along the obvious crimps, even with a little bit of downclimbing. Crux at the beginning of the traverse. There's an anchor on the ledge just above the wall, best to crawl over to that one in case you don't have anyone to second the route. In comparison to the other routes here rather 7 than 7+.
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6b 6b+ | ★★ 1518: Banda Moretti - with David X | 13m | Finale Ligure | ★ Good | Mon 13th Mar 2017 | |||
Directly from the 3rd to the 4th bolt is much harder than 6b, but if you go slightly to the left into the juggy slit, it's still stiff, but okay. Feels longer than it is.
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7 | ★ Zehentanz - with Daniel | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Aug 2014 | |||
7 | ★★ Bayreuther Weg (Loy Gedenkweg) - with Hubert | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | |||
(Originally logged as "Loy Gedenkweg".) I'm quite certain the line that is climbed nowadays has next to nothing to do with the original "Loy Gedenkweg", which I still have to identify. Nevertheless, this line makes a lot of sense the way it is set up and it's a lot of fun. There's only one very short difficult section above the second bolt and I don't think it's 8-, especially compared to "Die Gelbe", but this section is also quite chossy, so the grade might change. After the crux, you crawl up the diagonal ledge to the second pitch, which is just fantastic. Massive huecos with pronounced edges unlike any I've seen in the Frankenjura certainly make this the easiest pitch on the wall. Probably not even 7-. Great rock quality up there, only the lichen is quite thick because it's so rarely done.
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7 | ★ Vorspiel - with mantra | 13m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 29th Jun 2022 | |||
Tricky in the upper part, high feet are helpful. The polish doesn't help. #lastrouteoftheday
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7 7/7+ | ★★ Die Geigerin - with Simon | 11m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2016 | |||
Difficult start and then sustained on good holds to the top.
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7 | ★ Primatenweg - with Markus Benning | 23m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 27th Mar 2021 | |||
Didn't climb the easy second pitch due to lack of time. Looks like a fun little traverse on jugs, though. The hardest part is getting over the roof above the first bolt. There are jugs, but it's quite athletic nonetheless and you have to keep an eye out for the choss around. Nice little crack section at the bolt in the upper part. Take some gear for the middle.
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7 | ★ Obere Traverse - with Markus Benning | 30m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2022 | |||
Climbed both pitches. The first starts off like "Kurzweil mit Klemmkeil", draws up along the nice, thin layback crack via 2 bolts to an anchor. The second pitch is an easy traverse (hence the name) to the right. In order to reach the book case as indicated in the old guide books, you need to climb down a little at the end (there's a tiny little tree you can sling to protect the downclimb). Currently there's a bird breeding right next to the book case, so I refrained once again from climbing "Schlafwandler".
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7 | ★★ Hey Chinaski (Hey Cinaski) | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||
Also a great route, with ridiculous pockets in the overhang. The finish (which apparently was bolted later on) is a bit contrived, but bolted along the best rock quality.
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7 | ★★ Tigerauge - with Bovist | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 12th Apr 2018 | |||
Probably hasn't seen many ascents this year yet; still quite dusty. Nice pocket climbing after a boulder start on small holds.
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7 | ★ August-Wimmersberger Gedenkweg - with Merlin | 11m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | |||
Interesting traverse, felt pretty hard and holdless for the grade. Had to double the one available pocket.
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7 | ★ Teufelchen - with Daniel | 25m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Tue 21st Jun 2016 | |||
7 | Westwand - with thedark | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 14th Mar 2021 | |||
Quite burly when not climbed as an aid route. High first bolt (high only because you're starting from a ledge that you would plummet down in the event of a fall), then two more bolts in short succession, and up the grass and moss to the summit.
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7 | ★ Sandkasten - with Bovist | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 2nd May 2020 | |||
Not a bad route; the holds and the moves actually turn out to be quite nice. A bit sandy (duh!) in the beginning.
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7 | ★ Ego Lux - with Teresa | 20m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 26th Jul 2015 | |||
7 | ★ Bubinator - with Ellen | 12m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2020 | |||
Hard for the grade, I'd say it's 7 due to the two hard moves in the upper part. Up to there, it's a funny climb with basically just one hold shape, positive flakes/crimps.
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7 | ★★ Wandfußzottel - with Bovist | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2017 | |||
Somehow felt harder than its right neighbour. Lots of shallow pockets.
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7 | Müller-Pietsch Gedenkpfeiler - with KP | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Thu 18th Feb 2021 | |||
The climbing itself is actually quite good, but I can't really recommend the route because of the two big, loose blocks in the crux. They can't really be avoided and you need to use them as both handholds and footholds. If one of them comes off, a helmet won't help your belayer. The top section is basically the finish of "Südschlucht", which is nice. The bridging to the summit is actually quite challenging (and the important jug dissolves more and more). #jahreserste2021
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7 | ★ When I'm 64 - with Alex | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 7th Feb 2021 | |||
Logical variant of "Hattrick" and according to some sources the finish is also different, because Hattrick used to go up and right after its second bolt (which is shared with this route). Strenuous start on the sidepull flake, then technical slab climbing.
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7 | ★★ Exercises in Futility - with Merlin | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||
7 | ★ Schlaumeierei - with Bovist | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 1st May 2022 | |||
Short finish variant to "Schlaumeier".
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7 | Direkter Alter Weg - with Alex | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 5th Dec 2021 | |||
So I suppose this line is meant to be some direct variant of the original "Hohe Wand" (AW). It pulls up in a relatively straight line, first left of the AW, then together with it for two bolts in the middle (the AW sets up another belay on the little ledge on the left here), then up through the steep layback crack (an old rusty peg here makes me guess this was originally a variant of the AW, but I strongly assume that this variant traversed to the right around the corner here), over the little rooflet via new bolts, and then to the right into the cave, merging with the AW again. Didn't like the start, and the finish neither; both are a bit contrived. The middle part, however, is great, the layback crack/flake is phenomenal, but a bit too short. I guess AW is a lot more fun.
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7 | ★★ Pepi - with Alex | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | |||
Fantastic, airy route in rough rock. Spicy bolt distances that can be cut short a bit using the odd cam in a pocket. The difficult passages are well-protected, though. Pretty long and nice pockets!
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7 | ★ Verstrahlt - with mantra | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||
Nice route that loosely follows an old, forgotten aid route ("Bergseite", first described in Bühler guide from 1973) but then merges into "Südriss" towards the top instead of going directly left into the chossy overhang. Good rock and nice moves.
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7 | ★ Talseite - with Harald | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | |||
The best line here, actually (of course I, as a lover of classic routes, have to say that). Finds the easiest way through the wall and doesn't force a straight line.
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7 | ★★ Knupper Gedenkweg - with Alex FO | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Feb 2020 | |||
Easy lower part on jugs. Wonderfully exposed finish with interesting sequences in steep terrain.
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7 | ★★ Basic Instinct - with Gunter | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th May 2019 | |||
Very good route, but quite polished. Athletic start, some balancy sequences, great pockets.
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7 | ★ Fingerbrecher - with Nadja | 10m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | |||
Would be worth two stars if the start was similar to the rest. Hard boulder on small pockets before the first bolt, then enjoyable pocket climbing.
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7 | ★ Luja sog i, mei Manna mog i - with José | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 20th Apr 2019 | |||
Only a few powerful moves in the initial overhang, not the ideal #warmup but not a bad route. The pockets in the vertical part were extremely dusty so I brushed them for future aspirants.
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7 | ★★ Pachtner Gedenkweg - with Matzka | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | |||
Used to traverse left into "Höhlenweg" back in the day, but is hardly ever climbed in that way nowadays; instead, it goes directly up to an anchor in slightly grassy rock. Good moves on jugs.
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7 | ★★ Henkel Geplänkel - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 30th Mar 2019 | |||
Quite a high first bolt, but if you keep your cool and climb slowly, it's no big deal. Nice jugs in the upper part, also the protection has been upgraded in recent years.
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7 | ★★ Oberngruber Weg - with Markus Benning | 25m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th May 2021 | |||
We did it in two pitches. I led the chimney and the traverse to the arête, Markus the rest. Funky chimney, quite hard to get out to the first bolt. Great juggy traverse, and then the finishing hand crack that most people only experience when climbing "Monsun". #warmup
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7 | ★★ Kleiner Wurm - with Jenny | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Oct 2017 | |||
Might be deceiving, but felt like the third bolt was too high. Other than that, wonderful climbing on sidepulls and slopers with a juggy finish.
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7 | ★★ Erinnerungsweg - with Tobias | 18m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | |||
Good line, nice holds, sensible protection and solid rock.
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7 | ★ Talseite - with Daniel | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | |||
The start was dripping wet, so we pre-clipped the first bolt. Interesting, but easy slab traverse into the east face, then steeper along the arête to the top. Quite nice, actually.
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7 | ★★★ Michael Schober Gedenkweg - with Alex | 35m, 12 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Apr 2018 | |||
Long, exciting journey. Easy wall climbing in the chimney to a dusty slab, a nice overhang with good holds and a finish in a slippery crack with slopers. Murderous rope drag if you don't extend a few bolts (I didn't; trust me, you don't want this in the upper part). Great view from the top. The lower section is quite chossy, unfortunately.
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7 | ★ Baracuda - with Daniel | 14m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 14th May 2021 | |||
A bit vegetated at the start, but not too bad. Actually a nice climb; crack start, then step onto the little arête. The sling in the peg below the final bulge (which you can't clip directly) is almost worn through, but it's also not an issue to leave that one out. The holds towards the anchor are a bit dirty, should be done more often.
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7 | ★★ Rechte Nordkante - with Bovist | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st May 2019 | |||
Striking arête that screams "climb me!", nicely bolted. Hard part above the second bolt. The crack looks so inviting but turns out to make everything much harder. The rest is easier but still fun.
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7 | ★★ Direkte Talseite - with Harald | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Dec 2018 | |||
Hard start over the bulge, followed by actually pretty good climbing. Bolts in the right places and you can add nuts if you want.
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7 | ★★ …und die sieben Zwergnasen - with Martin Gropp | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | |||
7 | ★★ Hollereidulljöh - with David X | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | |||
Classic material. Delightfully homogeneous vertical to slabby climbing with spicy bolt distances. One cruxy section at the bolt after the big rock tunnel. Perfect rock quality in various colour schemes. Unfortunately, "green" is also part of those colours, meaning I had to clean lots of vegetation during my onsight. Should be climbed much more often, the line really deserves it.
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7 | ★★ Direkter Hansenweg - with Daniel | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | |||
Another fantastic line with lots of interesting passages. Most of the time there's a hidden jug somewhere. Quite long; can be done in one pitch, but the belay bolt on the big ledge should be extended quite a bit. Also, there's only rusty pegs and rings from there (but a good bolt to lower off at the end).
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7 | ★ Stockduster - with Daniel | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 16th Sep 2017 | |||
Placed a nut before the first bolt, a bit scary otherwise. Tricky wall climbing; the third bold sits quite far to the left, but I guess it's due to the better rock quality. Still okay to fall into, I guess.
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7 | ★★ Brockhaus - with Alex | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
A bit scary from the second to the third bolt (possible grounder); I placed a tiny nut to ease my mind, not sure if the rock would have been strong enough to hold a fall. Huge runout after the fourth bolt, too, a good nut or small cam protects the last meter to the bolt in the overhang. Awesome moves through the overhanging crack, then a few meters of nice pockets and a hidden clipping hold for the anchor.
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7 | ★★ Geier Sturzflug - with Daniel | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2017 | |||
Great wall climbing with a cool bulge in the end. The first (high) bolt is scary to climb to because of chossy rock, unfortunately.
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7 | ★★ R9 - with Harald | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||
Spaced but sensible bolting, good wall climbing. Crux is to get above the second bolt.
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7 | Schlaumeier - with Bovist | 31m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 1st May 2022 | |||
Easy dihedral start, a walk over the dirty ledge, then two harder moves followed by an easy traverse along the slab. I have no idea why the bolt in the crux is where it is. I clipped the good peg instead. Even though there's a long, fixed sling in the bolt, it's more comfortable to use the peg.
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7 | ★ Susan - with Alex | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 29th May 2018 | |||
Serious route with only 4 bolts. Great, but hard crack in the beginning (friend between first and second bolt, big nut after the second bolt), then easier slab to the third bolt (I traversed a bit left and followed the obvious crack line). More slab awaits on the long journey to the last bolt; above that, reachy moves lead to a good rock tunnel. Didn't find a supposed fifth bolt/anchor, so we went left to the anchor of "Finale im Wiesenttal".
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7 | ★ Wuppdich - with Uwe | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 6th Jan 2018 | |||
Juggy overhang in the beginning to a ledge (bigger distance to the third bolt) and then great wall climbing on big holds, but easier.
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7 | ★★ Wolkensteiner Wand (Unnamed 1) - with Julio | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jan 2018 | |||
Another very good route, mostly big holds, crux with reachy moves in the upper part after a small ledge.
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7 | ★★ Bunte Wand - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 30th Aug 2017 | |||
Great route and amazing rock structures, but sadly a bit too polished to justify a two star rating. Maybe better when it's cooler, brushed and when using chalk. ;-)
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7 | ★★ Schwarzer Riss - with KP | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | |||
Great #warmup. Quite dry today, which isn't often the case. I didn't do the easy traverse and the second pitch, and instead went right into "Flow".
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7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - with KP | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | |||
Phenomenal route at the edge of the crag. Very untypical crack in the first half, which you can either jam, which is what I did, or layback. From the pedestal, you gain a sort of diagonal double crack feature with really smooth holds, which turned out to be ridiculously hard for me. All of this is crowned by a steep, juggy finish. An absolute must-do!
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7 | ★★ Südkante - with Harald | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Amazingly thin arête. I tried to climb it as directly as possible. Seems like that makes the crux a tad harder, since you can reach the important sidepull more easily if you go up a bit in the right wall. Well-protected (take a sling for the runout) and fun.
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7 | ★★ Alter Gemsenweg - with Harald | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | |||
Classic traverse, but astonishingly easy. Just follow the horizontal lines of pockets up to the northeast arête, then walk up to the ledge. The next two moves are the crux (originally done by pulling the gear, of course), then again easy to the ledge.
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7 | ★ Abseilwand - with Ellen | 8m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | |||
Typical Frankenjura pocket climb, not bad actually! How many times have I abseiled past this? :-D
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7 | ★★ Jericho - with Bovist | 23m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Aug 2017 | |||
Generous line with cool sequences, winds its way up through the face along the obvious features. Classic Martin Grulich.
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7 | ★★ Kooschützkys Rammelstrecke - with Martin Skalli | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Mar 2019 | |||
Nice vertical wall with tricky moves on mostly small holds up to a large layback flake that leads into a short dihedral.
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7 | ★★ Rechter Spion - with monolith | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Dec 2021 | |||
Great route along the obvious crack. You can kneebar your way up to the second bolt, which was fantastic because the start was already in the shade and it was freezing cold. Wasn't entirely sufficient to warm up my hands for the crux, though, which is shortly before the finish on shallow holds. Couldn't feel a thing, but trusted my muscles enough to pull through.
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7 | ★★★ Weg des Paukers - with Bovist | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Oct 2016 | |||
Cool line in the central part of the doline. The fourth bolt sits a bit too high, but shouldn't be really dangerous with a good belayer.
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7 | ★★ Raunzender Kröterich - with mantra | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Mar 2019 | |||
Awesome layback crack. Felt easier than 7, but I like this stuff. The hardest part is getting out left from under the roof in the end, but with some good footwork you can reach the hidden jugs.
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7 | ★ Alter Knabe - with Alex | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 9th Aug 2019 | |||
Nice pocket climbing up to the last bolt, then a bit hard to read. I chose to go slightly left.
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7 | ★ Kalte Finger - with Daniel | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 15th Jun 2017 | |||
Seemed like one of the hardest routes in the grade for me, but turns out I just overlooked a good hold in the crux section (probably).
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7 | ★★ Schläger - with David X | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||
Funky sequences after the second bolt and after the last. The mini dihedral after spanning out over the bulge is hard to negotiate, took me a while to decipher it. In the upper section, long moves get you out left to the jugs. The bolts sit in the right places.
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7 | ★★ Goldgräber - with Alex | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jun 2019 | |||
What a line. People have likened this arête to what you'd find in the Elbe sandstone mountains, and I couldn't agree more. The protection is spaced, but good (and the clipping positions are fine). And the climbing could hardly be any better. If only this was climbed more, so that there was no more dust coating on the holds … A true gem. Please, don't hesitate to get on this one if you're solid in the grade!
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7 | ★★★ Manganplatte - with Bovist | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Apr 2020 | |||
Pretty neat! Homogeneous pocket pulling with great moves and a crux high up before the anchor, which I almost messed up.
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7 | ★★ Guillotine - with Tobias | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | |||
Perfect hands to fist crack in good rock; not even wet or dirty today! There is no anchor, so when the moss got too thick I traversed left to the anchor of the neighbouring route. I should climb it on trad gear next time.
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7 | ★★ Short Romance - with Bovist | 11m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st May 2019 | |||
Surprisingly good with a nice boulder start (definitely harder than 7 if you cannot reach the good starting hold from the ground) and smooth moves in the wall above. Well-protected.
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7 | ★★ Unnamed 2 - with Ellen | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2020 | |||
Bouldery starting bulge, then easy slab and another little cruxy bulge. I finished via the sling to the anchor of "Alter Weg".
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7 | ★ Kupferdach - with Hartmut | 16m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 29th Jun 2023 | |||
Again the tricky start that I climbed for "Archner Gedenkweg" already, but to the right below the roof. Careful, the second bolt sits in a massive hollow flake. I don't suspect it'll come down in the event of a fall, but I wouldn't bet on it. The blocks after the second bolt aren't trustworthy either, which is also why there's a runout. Small nuts or tiny cams possible in solid rock, though. The climbing as such is pretty good, just take care not to pull some loose blocks.
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7 | ★★ Bibou Rechts - with Daniel | 22m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 5th Jul 2016 | |||
7 | ★★ Netter Götz - with Hartmut | 24m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 29th Jun 2023 | |||
Tricky wall climbing. Spaced bolting but with a little care it's fine (you could also place a good nut in the jug on the way to the third bolt).
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7 | Roter Seitensprung - with Daniel | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Tue 5th Jul 2016 | |||
Directly followed it up with "Combinazione"
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7 | ★ Für Göre - with Tobias Auth, Simone | 17m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 1st Nov 2018 | |||
Difficult, but very nice passage at the bulge with great holds, then easier and a bit run out.
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7 | ★★ Kilian Gedenkweg - with Harald | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Mar 2021 | |||
Great classic, quite technical in the upper part. A nut after the first bolt protects the way to the ledge. On the way to the next bolt, it's also sensible to place gear. I used a pink dragon cam and extended it with an alpine draw, then also put a long sling into the next bolt to keep rope drag at bay. The traverse is tricky, best approached quite low. Brilliant position on the final little ledge, then up to the very top (the route originally went around the corner to the right before going up and has been straightened).
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7 | Bamberger Weg - with mantra | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
Good sidepulls to the second bolt, then jugs around the arête. Enjoyable bridging action in perfect black rock from there. Too bad it doesn't have an anchor; I went all the way to the right through the dirt and moss to a high bolt above "Nordostverschneidung".
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7 | Fliegender Robert - with Nadja | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 26th May 2018 | |||
Phew! Cemented pitons with shabby looking rings; chossy between the first and the second bolt; hitting the ground possible when approaching the second bolt; hard move from there to the third bolt; afterwards, two (good) slings through grassy and mossy rock (but fortunately no choss anymore). I don't know why, but I enjoyed it nevertheless.
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7 | ★ Gregor Samsa - with Nadja | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 26th May 2018 | |||
Steep route with big pockets. Almost didn't make it, but fortunately I found a kneebar rest and tried again. Hard for 7, possibly 7+.
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7 | ★★ Ameisentrail | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Mar 2021 | |||
Great, varied climb. Technical and slabby in the lower part, then powerful and tricky over the overhang in the middle, and an easier slab with larger holds to the top.
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7 | ★ Venga! - with Ellen | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | |||
Interesting start along a finger crack (no jams necessary) to a high first bolt, then up and right to an overhanging arête with nice exposure. The jugs above the edge are quite mossy, so I don't recommend it after rain (and it looks like it's not climbed very often).
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7 | ★★ Neue Bergseite - with Ellen | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | ||||
I liked the climbing, but can't really give the route a quality rating before I went there again to clean the upper part from vegetation. After the third bolt, you can climb one more meter before all the holds are filled with dirt and grass. I climbed diagonally to the right to exit like "Bergseite" instead. Small pockets with a big runout in the end (if the jugs on the left are as big as for "Bergseite", it shouldn't be a problem, though).
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7 | ★★ Mandel Gedenkweg - with Daniel | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Jun 2018 | |||
Brilliant layback flakes all over the place. I should come back and try this one green point. Perfect rock quality, very natural line, nice moves.
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7 | ★ Dagobert Engling Gedenkweg - with KP | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 10th Aug 2021 | |||
Tough little boulder over the bulge, followed by a good slab. Original book from 1973.
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7 | ★★ Su Alto Weg - with Alex | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | |||
Slighly intimidating overhanging dihedral in the upper part, that turns out to be a real treat. No anchor except for the one at the very top, I jumped back into the last bolt (there's a solid tree, too).
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7 | ★★ Athos - with filo | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | |||
7 | ★★ Zittern verboten - with filo | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 19th Apr 2015 |