Showing all 57 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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4+ 5 | Westwand - with Bovist | 10m | Schneeberg | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | ||||
We climbed the variant indicated in the "Ostbayern" guide book, which seems to be almost totally different from what the route is supposed to be according to the old Bühler guide. I started via the crack in the west face, then traversed right at the first bolt, along the big flake, then up along the arête. Probably easier than the original variant (which also goes up much further along the north-west arête to a peg, it seems).
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4+ | ★ Nordwand - with Merlin | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | ||||
Looks harder than it turns out to be. The rock quality is of course not the best.
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4+ | ★★ Manfred Schuh Gedenkweg (linker Einstieg) - with Ellen | 25m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Feb 2021 | |||
Nice classic line, well-protected.
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4+ | ★★ Manfred Schuh Gedenkweg - with KP | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||
#warmup The start from the right feels slightly shorter due to the blocky start. Great classic line.
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4+ | ★ Krautgarten - with Bovist | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | |||
Polished start followed by delightful climbing on jugs. Nice finish over the big rock tunnel.
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4+ | Kräuterwanderung - with David X | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | |||
Logical line, but nothing special. A bit dirty in the middle.
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4+ | ★★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 40m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | |||
Good climbing along the obvious jug-lines to the belay below the overhang, then left upward to a glorious finish on the arête, juggy with lots of air beneath your feet.
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4+ | ★★ Waldvögelein - with Bovist | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Aug 2017 | |||
Beautiful stroll up the right edge of the crag on big pocket structures.
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4+ | Ort der Finsternis - with Markus | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 22nd May 2016 | |||
4+ | ★★★ Sellaerinnerungen - with Teresa | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | |||
A dream. 25 meters of rock solid jugs. It's steep enough not to be boring, and there's plenty of bomber placements for gear of all sorts.
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4+ | ★ Für Zwietsch - with mb | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 10th Feb 2024 | |||
4+ | ★★ Koffka-Traverse - with Ellen, Merlin | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | |||
Climbed it as described in the oldest Frankenjura guidebook, starting with the narrow chimney of "Südriss", which is already quite something. The actual traverse is a delightful journey along obvious structures, starting with a slanted ramp up to the ledge of the various "Talwand" routes and further on to the edge of it. We finished up directly to the summit from here via "Linke Talwand" instead of doing the rope tension traverse into the cave of "Nordwand".
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4+ | Bäumlesweg - with Teresa, Daniel | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 11th Aug 2013 | ||||
4+ | ★ Massivausstieg - with monolith | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Feb 2021 | |||
Great juggy finish, perfect for "Überlebt" or as an alternative for "Kantenbrecher".
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4+ | ★ Wacholdersteig - with Bovist | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 5th Sep 2021 | ||||
A little forced over the bulge (you could walk out to the left onto the summit), but that's the part that makes the route interesting.
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4+ | ★★ Kamin - with David X | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||
Nice #warmup dihedral/chimney. Used the finish of "Klettern verboten", but the route originally ended on the ledge (finishing via one of the old aid routes).
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4+ | ★ Hobbitkante - with Bovist | 16m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 11th Aug 2016 | |||
Funny overhanging start with tree in the back to help you up to the jugs followed by nice and easy wall climbing on perfect holds.
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4+ | ★★ Linksdiagonale - with Merlin | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 17th Jul 2023 | |||
4+ | ★ Jeany lebt - with Merlin | 11m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||
Nice, short chimney, jugs after the second bolt.
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4+ | ★★ Nico - with Teresa | 25m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 16th May 2013 | ||||
4+ | ★ Westriss - with Merlin | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 24th Feb 2024 | |||
4+ | Gerade Westwand - with Bovist, Jens | 30m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Feb 2020 | |||
First time I did the whole thing including the easy exit via the juggy groove. Careful at the exit, the massive loose block is still there (guess it's still so deeply anchored in the wall that the Alpine rescue service couldn't get it out last year).
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4+ | ★★ Luftriss - with Teresa | 22m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
Pleasant climbing along an obvious line, perfectly re-equipped!
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4+ | Kalte Ente - with Harald | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | ||||
Short direct variant of "Bergseite", starting from the ground instead of the highest point, and going directly up instead of going around the arête.
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4+ | ★★ Südostwand - with Bovist | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 14th Feb 2019 | |||
Somewhat chossy, so take care, but nevertheless relaxed and interesting climbing. Joins the arête shortly before the end.
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4+ | ★ Direkte Westwand, linker Ausstieg - with Bovist | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 28th Mar 2020 | ||||
4+ | ★★★ Linke Abseilwand - with Viola | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
4+ | ★ Südwand - with mantra | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 24th Feb 2021 | |||
Nice summit with gorgeous view. The book on the summit was lying next to the (open) box and was completely drenched. The box was dry, so I placed a new book, which I luckily had with me.
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4+ | ★ R2 - with asn | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | |||
Easy stroll up to the dihedral, then nice bridging with good holds up to a sling and left to the anchor.
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4+ | ★ Minipfeiler - with Bovist | 7m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Apr 2020 | |||
Good moves, good rock, but soooo short.
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4+ | ★★ Barbarelli-Weg - with Bovist | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Oct 2016 | |||
Very nice for the grade.
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4+ | ★★ Symbiose - with Teresa | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Wed 1st May 2013 | |||
4+ | ★ Kurze Rampe - with Harald | 12m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 26th Jun 2020 | |||
Much more solid than it looks from below. A nice stroll, but you should add some nuts in the top part if you're unsure.
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4+ | ★ R1 - with KP | 18m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||
4a | ★★ Bašćanska direkt - with Bovist | 30m | Krk | ★ Good | Tue 14th Sep 2021 | |||
One balance slab move in the middle, a few longer bolt distances in easy terrain. Nice #lastrouteoftheday.
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4+ | ★ Zwockel - with Bovist | 12m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 14th Feb 2021 | |||
Careful before the first bolt. Nice and easy slab climbing. #barefoot
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4+ | ★★ Willi Kapp Gedenkweg - with Harald | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Jan 2024 | |||
Always enjoyable. I've probably never done this in temperatures above 5 degrees. :-D
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4+ | ★★ Die neue Linke (Unknown) | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | |||
First time I used my new TR Solo setup. This route must be really new, the rock feels as rough as nothing else here. Nice beginner route, for sure.
Caution: It turned out after the fact that this route is in a "Zone 1" area, so please do not climb. Signs are probably going to be put up soon. Update: The route has now been legitimated. The rest of the surrounding rock is still "Zone 1", however. |
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4+ | ★ Sternchenweg | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 15th Sep 2019 | |||
Nice little pocketed arête.
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4 | ★ Arête Relief | 25m | Gozo | ★ Good | Fri 16th Sep 2016 | |||
4 | ★ Jayes Ways | 22m | Gozo | ★ Good | Fri 16th Sep 2016 | |||
4+ | ★ Unnamed | 6m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 16th Oct 2016 | |||
4a | 11 - with Bovist | 6m | Promeghin | Average | Sat 7th Apr 2018 | |||
More a boulder, and certainly easier than 5a. Maybe they graded these for children.
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4a | 12 - with Bovist | 6m | Promeghin | Average | Sat 7th Apr 2018 | |||
Same as number 11.
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4+ | ★★ Großer Kamin | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||
Only up to the big ledge. Didn't want to traverse out over dirt and trees into the dihedral at the end. Nowadays it seems like there's a new finish via the east face. Great little chimney with some bridging and stemming, and some nice exposed moves out under the big chockstone.
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4+ | Horrortrip | 8m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 3rd Feb 2018 | |||
Slightly wet. Relatively small holds and quite technical for the grade, but good feet most of the time.
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4+ | ★★ Rissüberhang | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | |||
Nice climb! Definitely quite polished, but it's not problematic if you've got crack skills. Quite steep section for the grade, too.
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4+ | ★★ Südostkante | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | |||
Beautiful easy climbing along the exposed, juggy arête.
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4+ | ★ Südostkante | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||
The second half isn't as obvious as the first, but if you look closely, there are big jugs in the arête there, too.
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4+ | ★ Talseite | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | |||
Nice, juggy slab.
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4+ | ★ April-Flocke | 11m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 31st Dec 2021 | ||||
Interesting for the grade, quite juggy.
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4+ | Südwestverschneidung | 9m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | ||||
4+ | ★★★ Plattenkante | 6m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
4+ | Südwand | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 18th Oct 2020 | ||||
Grade 2 in the 1931 guide book. Grade 4 in the Bühler guides. Probably harder, but it's basically one or two moves, so it might have been done with a little bit of trickery back in the day. Nice view from the summit!
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4+ | ★★★ Bäumlesweg - with Alex | 40m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Aug 2020 | |||
Funny chimney crawling in the lower part, exposed but easy climbing up top. Did it in two pitches.
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4+ | ★ Hummelstaner Weg - with mantra | 12m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 26th May 2019 | |||
Easy #warmup with nice climbing in the middle.
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4+ 6- | Bergseite | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Don't Bother | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | |||
Brittle and mossy, thank god somebody wasted the bolts so it's possible to aid it easily enough. I only climbed it because I saw that the box on top was wide open so it rained at the book … turns out it was already soaked, so I took it with me (not a very interesting book either, because it was replaced only 3 years ago). Now I need to go there again to replace it, dammit.
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Showing all 57 ascents.