Showing all 69 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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VI VIIa | ★★★ Ostkante (Ostkante (RP)) - with thedark | 30m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | |||
A great, but airy classic. Quite demanding overall. Easy to the first ring, then down and left a bit to good holds around the corner. Up onto the pillar (good knotted sling, but apparently most people use long webbing around the pillar) and further up to the ring. Cruxy passage above the ring, then slightly to the right and up. Great, but runout finish with a spicy overhang bit.
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VI | ★★ Nordwestweg - with David X | 30m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Mon 10th Aug 2020 | |||
Nice and easy along the rib at the arête, then slightly left over the rooflet and up into easy terrain.
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VI | Westkante - with Bovist | 20m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||
VI | ★ Alter Weg - with Raimund, Bovist | 8m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | |||
VI | ★ Talkante - with David X | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 24th Sep 2021 | |||
Nice wall climbing on big sidepulls. The ring sits a meter too high for some reason, so you have to do the hardest moves without protection.
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VI | ★ Hintere Reibung - with Bovist | 30m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||
Nice introduction to sandstone friction slabs.
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VI | ★★ Mittelweg - with Bovist | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
Beautiful black sandstone with lots of jugs and good placements for slings. Difficult section over the ring, then easier but more slopers than jugs to the top. Felt like I was almost blown off by the strong wind that suddenly came up when we arrived, but the climbing was still very much enjoyable.
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VI | ★ Sonnenwendweg - with David X | 50m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | |||
My quality rating is for the start in clean condition. Unfortunately, it was utterly full of sand for us. Otherwise nice boulder start to get into the dihedral, easy wall climbing along iron knobs to the ring, a nice traverse under the roof to the ledge and a slightly bold short rib to the next big ledge. From there it's chimneys and easy slabs to the top, still a bit dirty.
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VI | ★ Talriss - with Bovist | 30m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 12th Apr 2024 | |||
VI |
★★ Talweg
- with
Jeni
2
V
20
lead by
Jeni
| 50m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Mar 2023 | |||
Great climb through the south face. Crack up to a sort of ledge, then traverse to the right and up onto a delicate slab which runs out onto a ledge with a belay ring. From there, the route goes left a bit and then up on good holds to the summit via a big terrace.
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VI | ★★ Ostkante - with David X | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Sep 2023 | |||
Impressive climb. Interesting and rough start followed by a great dihedral. I climbed most of it as a shoulder crack, in hindsight there were many good footholds on the right side, but of course this wouldn't feel as safe. Fantastic jug haul in great position in the second pitch. A few sensible slings after the ring. Nice one to finish the first day.
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VI | ★★ Südwestweg - with monolith | 20m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | |||
Lots of big holds on the sides of the crack, but also some good jams. Many solid slings. It is probably best to bring up your second at the ring due to rope drag, or at least extend the ring with a long sling. The ring would not prevent you falling onto the ledge, anyway. Nice line and varied climbing.
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VI | ★ Südwestriss - with Raimund, Bovist | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||
VI | ★ !Alter Weg - with KP | 15m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Jul 2021 | |||
Basically free solo to the ring. Not too hard, but probably not easy to downclimb. Nice finish, first to the right of the arête, then to the left, on good holds.
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VI | ★★ Westkante - with David X | 10m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||
Easy for Franconians. Overhanging jug haul with a ring. Nice, but unfortunately quite short. Great evening light, though.
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VI | ★★★ Südwestwand - with monolith, Bovist | 24m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | |||
Wonderful route through the narrow south west face. Two cruxes, one after each ring. The first is rather powerful, to get over the bulge, the second is a balancy slab problem. Solid slings in the upper section. Beautiful summit and a gorgeous view!
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VI | Údolní cesta - with Daniel | 15m | Bělá | Average | Sat 12th May 2018 | |||
Might be better without the vegetation (lichen above the ring, shrubs from the ledge to the summit). Small holds from the ring to the ledge.
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VI | ★ Údolní cesta - with Daniel | 20m, 1 | Bělá | ★ Good | Sat 12th May 2018 | |||
Nice chimney to a big chock (sling underneath and sling to the right of the chock). Stood on the chock for quite some time thinking about the consequences of a fall, but then found another position for a sling in the chimney above the chockstone. Nice moves from there (and thankfully two more slings) to the col and the ring and further up the wall to the summit.
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VI | ★ Údolní cesta - with Daniel | 25m | Bělá | ★ Good | Sat 12th May 2018 | |||
The fourth "Údolní cesta" today and probably the best, although it took us a while to find it. I think the description in the Kittler guidebook is wrong, as it makes no sense to traverse to the arête on the right at any point; also, the description in the book on the summit says to go left and up, too. To sum up: difficult start to a small ledge (I clipped the ring of the hard route next to it), then left and up to a ledge (sling) with huge flakes. Above the flakes (good sling!), merge into "Severní cesta" (nice climbing but unprotected) to the big ledge (sling). Short wall with good slopers to the top.
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VI | Alter Weg Talzustieg - with Raimund | 16m, 1 | Sächsische Schweiz | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
5 | ★ Dachlriss - with Markus Benning | 20m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 30th Dec 2022 | |||
Was supposed to be the #warmup but turned out to be quite a challenge. Well, I'm not surprised, this is Würgau after all. Had to back up a bit when I was already standing on the flake that I had haphazardly draped a sling over - well, at first; I added a knot after I had second thoughts - to add a big cam and a nut before I dared to rock up into the alcove below the overhanging crack. That one looked easy enough from the ground, but turned out to be quite off-putting, but at least protected by a bolt.
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5 | ★ Silberweg - with Bovist | 12m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 10th Aug 2019 | |||
Nice classic from the 1930s. Interesting passage to the first bolt and over it, then easier along the crack, with a nice finishing dihedral.
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5 | ★ Hacke Gedenkweg - with Harald | 20m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 14th Dec 2018 | |||
Difficult, bouldery start if you go directly over the first bolt. Then straight up the crack with good nut placements, diagonally up towards a bolt of "S' mou gei" and then back up left onto the big pillar (seems like I climbed it a bit more directly than it was done originally). Nice rock structures!
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5 | ★★ Zwillingriss - with David X | 20m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Aug 2019 | |||
Terrific rock quality, smooth climbing, really enjoyable, could go on like this for a few hundred meters.
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5 | Nordriss - with Ellen | 12m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
5 | ★ Alter Weg - with Hartmut | 15m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 29th Jun 2023 | |||
Might have become easier after the flake fell out? I'll never know. Now it's a fine chimney/dihedral start in spiky rock. Easy traverse and juggy finish. #lastrouteoftheday
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5 | ★ Nordkamin - with Bovist | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 25th Aug 2020 | |||
Interesting, classic route. The traverse into the chimney is the crux. Quite exposed, but nicely protectable with a nut and a cam. The chimney is tricky in the first half, best climbed with your face on the right side when looking in. Easy top, a green cam eases your mind.
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5 | ★ Nordrippe - with Raimund | 20m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 4th Dec 2022 | |||
5 | ★ Kraftriss - with Harald | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 20th Jan 2024 | |||
Awesome shoulder crack with an easy chimney on top that looks intimidating from the ground. The shoulder crack can of course be climbed frontally without any crack skills, but you shouldn't! Good but tricky nut placement after a few meters, a good sling shortly after.
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5 | ★ Schartenkamin - with monolith | 15m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | |||
One of the more exciting chimneys around, with lots of air beneath your feet if you bridge it up on the outside. I didn't place any gear, but it should be possible to protect the thing, at least with medium to large cams and one or the other sling.
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5 | ★★ Ostriss - with mb | 25m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Jun 2023 | |||
5 | ★ Libero | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
5 | ★★★ Vollrathriss - with mantra | 25m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Feb 2021 | |||
Incredible feat for 1912. I can imagine they used some wooden chocks back in the day? Would be interesting to know how they climbed this. It's basically a big round flake in the back of a chimney, with fist sized to offwidth cracks on both sides. The first few meters are fine, but then the chimney gets narrower and the footholds worse (at around 10 meters off the ground). Tried a few things to get past that narrow bit but failed to climb it safely, and to make matters worse, got my foot stuck in the right crack. I had to find a no-hand position (still free solo!) to get my foot back out. I already wanted to give up and start downclimbing, when I realised there was a rusty old ring (which looked fine, though) just a meter above me. The biggest cam I had was a blue one, which I then optimistically placed in the narrowest section of crack I could find, and then carefully climbed on, reached the ring, and started to breathe again. Recovered the cam for later after clipping the ring and placed a sling around the only chockstones I could find a few inches higher. From there, the climbing first gets a bit easier, and you can place slightly smaller cams (blue, yellow) safely, but the finish is still challenging regardless!
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5 | ★★★ Talkamin - with Jonas, Merlin | 45m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Jul 2023 | |||
A classic mountain adventure, just like "Rauer Kamin", which has the same start up to the crux. From there it's pleasurable, airy chimney stemming up to the top.
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5 | ★★★ Rauher Kamin - with Bovist, Raimund | 50m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Feb 2023 | |||
Fantastic, long classic line. Starts off like Bäumlesweg through the narrow chimney inside the crag, then traverses to the right along the ledges to the actual "Talkamin". Up this to just past the bolt, then to the right to a good belay. Again around the corner to the right into the next, comfy chimney and up this to the summit. #jahreserste2023
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5 | ★★★ Talweg - with Raimund, KP | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Feb 2024 | |||
Brilliant, airy classic. The section where it leaves "Bayerlandverschneidung" to the right felt hard for the grade. From the next ledge, it's also a bit bold because there aren't too many good options for additional protection. The traverse back to the left of "Bayerlandverschneidung" is stunning. Exposed and very worthwhile.
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5 | ★★ Schwarze Kante - with Jenny | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Apr 2018 | |||
Really good. The difficulties are over a few meters above the single bolt, then it's just a leisurely stroll up to the anchor.
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5 | ★★ Diagonalriss - with Daniel | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Aug 2020 | |||
Another fantastic line that I had passed by before without noticing. A long, diagonal crack, perfect for some trad training. Perfect rock, nice hold shapes, good jams.
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5 | ★★ Freundschaftsweg - with Harald | 30m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Aug 2020 | |||
Nice classic. Some polish in the beginning, but quite rough later on. Quite run out, so bring some nuts if you don't want to solo half of it. Had the most beautiful light when the sun went below the clouds just before sunset.
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5 | ★★ Westlicher Nordriss - with Raimund | 30m, 2 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jun 2023 | |||
Terrific line, amazing terrain for the grade. Tricky to get over the overhang, then relatively easy, but still delicate. A bit chossy shortly before the abseil ring.
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5 | Nürnberger Weg - with Merlin | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | ||||
Traverse around the whole rock from the south to the north via the west face. Just one little section of actual climbing which is a steep little boulder, the rest is relatively easy. The start is a little overgrown but it's not a problem.
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5 | ★★ Talseite - with Bovist | 25m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jun 2021 | |||
Fantastic, long route, much better than "Linke Talseite". The vegetation isn't too bad, the rock quality is good and the line pretty awesome. The bolts are old rings; the lower one can be backed up with a cam in the crack on the left, the upper one still looks good. Bring slings and nuts, too!
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5 | R16 - with KP | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
5 | ★ Höhlenweg - with Bovist, monolith | 18m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | |||
5 | ★ Rechte Nordwand - with Bovist | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | |||
Nice easy route on jugs. If you go to the summit directly at the ring on the ledge, it seems a bit harder than 5, but it could be that the original route goes up on the right, slightly around the corner (was wet today).
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5 | ★★★ Balkentoni - with Alex | 12m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Mar 2018 | |||
One of the funniest routes I know. Starts by climbing the big staircase-like needle in the middle of the ravine, then turn around and climb onto the rock beam, walk across to the other side and climb a few meters more to the anchor. Highly Recommended!
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5 | ★★ Kamin - with Simon | 18m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | |||
Airy but easy chimney at the top. Worthwhile! The difficulty is to get into the “Hundebahnhof”, same as for “Linke Kaminkante”.
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5 | ★★ Nordwestkante - with Simon | 18m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | |||
Marvellous rock with ergonomic holds, really enjoyable. Take some gear for additional protection.
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5 | ★ Nordwestriss - with Simon | 16m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | |||
Good line along a fist crack. Better backup the sling after the first bolt. I didn’t have a thin enough Kevlar sling with me, otherwise I would have swapped it.
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5 | ★★ Südwestwand - with Teresa | 15m | Schneeberg | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jul 2018 | |||
Wonderful crack climbing with plenty of bomber placements.
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5 | ★ Südrippe - with Teresa | 10m | Schneeberg | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Jul 2018 | |||
A funny ride! The slab climbing along the rib almost felt like sandstone due to the lichen crumbling under my fingers and feet. More than enough friction, though.
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5 | O sole mio - with monolith | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 22nd Dec 2021 | ||||
Short pocketed wall, ever so slightly overhanging. Used a purple and a small silver Dragon cam in pockets for protection.
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5 | ★ Block Südkante - with Ellen, Daniel | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | |||
The original finish of "Neuer Gemsenweg". It's best to have some protection somewhere on the plateau before stepping out onto the arête. Nice position!
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5 |
★ Talweg
- with
Markus Benning
| 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | |||
The rock was almost completely wet due to the warm temperatures. Didn't exactly make the traverse easier. Nice second pitch up the pocketed slab.
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5 | ★ Nordkante - with Alex | 15m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||
A seemingly forgotten line which is mentioned in the oldest guidebooks. Up through the chimney like "Alter Weg", then even further up onto the huge chockstone. From there, straight up along the north-west arête (no fixed protection, but nuts and slings possible). #lastrouteoftheday
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5 | Wachtroute - with mb | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
One of the oldest routes here. Drives out left from the third bolt of "Seelendoping" into "Vergissmeinnicht". The original line then goes up and left into the dihedral (rusty peg) and through the crack to the top. Climbed up this way, but there's no anchor and it's quite mossy, so I backtracked and went up the pockety finish of "Vergissmeinnicht" instead (maybe a little harder this way).
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5 | ★ Piazverschneidung - with Bovist | 11m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 14th Jul 2019 | |||
Nice #warmup on an almost perfect layback flake. Can be climbed as a dihedral, though, but still great fun. Used a yellow and blue dragon cam, a sling and some medium nut.
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5 | ★★ Westriss - with Daniel | 25m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th May 2017 | |||
Left out the two bolts and did it clean. Loads of good placements and a really wonderful climb.
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5 | ★ Ostverschneidung - with Alex | 20m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 29th Oct 2022 | |||
VI | ★ ! Schartenwand - with Bovist | 10m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||
5 | ★★ Abendrot - with Nadja | 13m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th May 2018 | |||
Wonderful juggy slab, perfect soloing terrain.
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5 | ★ Westkante | 10m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 20th Jun 2023 | |||
5 | ★★ Schwedenriss | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Jul 2022 | |||
Great crack dihedral with solid, safe jams almost throughout. Crux at the Bühler bolt high up.
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VI | ★★★ Direkter Alter Weg - with thedark | 25m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | |||
Basically the same as the original, except for two or three long, a bit more powerful moves in the middle next to the big rock tunnel. #barefoot
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VI | ★★ Leistenwand - with thedark | 40m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | |||
Nice comb structures in the initial wall, followed by a traverse through a small chimney and over a ledge below an overhang to the final groove and crack.
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VI | ★ Südweg - with Raimund | 60m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jul 2022 | |||
Tough crack for the grade at the start. Easier, but a little sandy and more athletic to the ledge (tree). Rough, narrow chimney (exhausting!) to the big ledge below the summit, then step over and easy friction slab to the top.
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5 | ★★ Theoturm Normalweg - with Raimund | 15m | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | |||
Bold route, but not too hard except maybe for the awkward start.
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VI | Übergangsweg - with Raimund | 15m | Sächsische Schweiz | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
5 A0 6- | ★★★ Schuhmacher Gedenkweg - with Ellen | 50m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Hasn't seen an ascent in ages, apparently. Fought my way through the dirt and vegetation up to the second bolt (at around 20 meters), but then didn't know where to go due to lots of vegetation, choss and mostly loose dirt. Guess I'll have to clean this up a bit before giving it another go.
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Showing all 69 ascents.