Ascents by Rob Saxton

Quality crack climbing up to the sloping ledge, with an easier finish through a larger crack on bigger gear (up to BD C4) to the belay. Optional, though somewhat awkward belay from sloping ledge after rounding bulge at top of first crack, may reduce slight risk of rope drag.

Don't bother with the chossy first pitch, just rap to the big grassy ledge and climb from there.

Enjoyable jug fest, run out in some sections but pro is otherwise solid.

Might have done the direct start, an edgy experience. 10m up before I could get a piece of gear in; this route could really do with a bolt or three as the first section up to a small ledge (suggested in the guide as an optional belay) is certainly harder than a grade 8. The rest of the climb is great, with a fun corner crack section and mainly jug hauling on pitch 2.

Pitch 1 only, bailed off some shrubs on the first belay ledge. Traces of chopped rap rings on this ledge, why are these gone? One or two bolts could take the tension out of the harder slab section on the direct start.

Rap chains at top of 2nd pitch, these should be better marked in the online guide. Pitch 1 is crap, involving scrub-bashing and awkward scrambling up a chossy, vegetated crack. Pitch 2 is an enjoyable jug-fest, suitable for beginners. A couple of bolts on the slab just to the right could make for a good easy climb, avoiding the overgrown crack.

Much better than described in the guide. Amusing to watch should the leader choose to practice their jamming. Exposed and somewhat tricky access to rap station, can use small cam to protect few moves out from top of climb to rings.

Chossy start through shrubbery leads to a few decent but desperate moves up the flaring crack. Exciting last few moves past where crack finishes, belly flop onto a sandy ledge with relief, watching out for the jumping jacks that share the ledge.

A discrete bolt on the slab above and a rap station on the top ledge (above the one with a small tree) would add another 2-3 metres of enjoyable slab moves.

Good climb with an exciting crux onto a finer crack. Deserves a star.

Delicate crimps up the face onto steep slab, with a slight rest in the underwhelming scoop.

Should have added this sooner but was discussing details of the ascent and naming rights with the person who bolted it. Bolted ~2 weeks prior by Lindsay Croghan, I chanced upon the route and unknowingly made the first ascent. I'd like the route name to be Gingervitis, after the bad taste left in one's mouth when the climb you bolted is nabbed by a ranga.

Good climb, a bit run out to first bolt and top anchors. Stick clipping first bolt would make first few moves less sketchy, otherwise it's just bouldering until then.

Definitely not 66 metres. This could do with revising so that the 20-odd metre pitch that runs until the rap anchors is separate from the rest. Great climb though!

Had a little rest after pumping out on still rather moist holds. Mainly down to my crap sequence though!

Let's just say that with a bit of a late, mid afternoon start and a heap of rope drag, we found out the meaning behind the route name. Good thing we packed headlamps!