Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
8 | ★ Al Sirrat | 14m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Supposedly I’ve seconded this previously. Remembering precisely none of the moves made for a thought provoking outing
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12 | ★ Sheoak Corner | 15m | ||||
16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Bringing a 2nd 0.3 cam for the crux would have saved me a lot of faffing around trying to wiggle in a crap RP
|
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Wed 29th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Pyrrhic Victory | 40m | ||||
Pulled through the cruxy start on second and was removing gear in a pretty awkward drop knee which my right knee decided it wanted no part in and so promptly exploded and collapsed inwards. Goodbye MCL and goodbye tick. Likely won’t be getting on this again as a result
|
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
25 | ★ Corruption and Lies | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Doesn’t even count as a flash having previously done pcl
|
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane — 2 attempts | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Lats in the Belfry | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Some amazing flowy moves in the lower half. Need to work out the final massive lunge linking in to PCL
|
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Gurtle Tier — 2 attempts | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Some interesting moves. Would climb better with chalk on the holds instead of the greased up gunk I had to deal with
|
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Mon 13th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Pitch 2 looked amazing from the belay. Climbing quality didn't quite match up but good fun nonetheless
|
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14 R | ★★ Hot Flap | 170m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ A Taste of Honey Direct Start | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing! fantastic flowy moves and bomber wires right when you need them
|
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
23 | ★ The Swarm | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type | 25m, 2 | ||||
crux holds weren't fun in the baking sun
|
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14 | ★★ Touchstone | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
fantastic moves, would be a classic if it was more sustained. (took great care to avoid the ferns too )
|
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Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★ Very Good | |||
would not recommend to someone for their first 14. very exposed and delicate in places
|
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
18 | ★ The Iliad Connection | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
quality first pitch marred only by some suspect rock on the last overhang. Didn't climb the described P2, instead went straight up a cool chalky groove thing off the belay
|
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves once you get through the complete choss start
|
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
18 | ★★ Virginia | 25m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worth every star!
|
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Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shanghai | 30m | Average | |||
Pretty sure I spent more time off the route than on it… committing moves down low on fiddly gear but some nice moves up high. Bring rp’s and doubles in micro cams if you’ve got them
|
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Thu 26th Jan 2023 - The Bluff | ||||||
The Pleasure Dome | ||||||
19 | ★★ Richthofen's Circus | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seconded Sarah who made it look way easier than it felt. Seeping holds didn’t help
|
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22 | ★★★ Rubber Ducky | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stoked!!! Especially for my first trad route after a few months off the injury. Glorious jamming the whole way up with a slopey top out for a bitta spice at the end
|
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14 R | ★★ Pleasure Dome | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
been putting this off way too long. steep, pumpy, heel hooks galore - right up my alley!
|
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
19 19 R | ★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun | 140m | Average | |||
not one for those aspiring to lead this grade. stuff all gear on pitch 3
|
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Reaper
1
22
40m
2
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
onsighted P1. froze my ass off at the belay for an hour after Leigh realised he needed a pre-climb weight loss/toilet stop. Icy immobile muscles led to a fall seconding P2 after committing to wrong beta. will have to come back for the full tick
|
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Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
21 | ★ Blind Profit | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Actually really enjoyed this. One tricky move
|
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
26 25 | ★★ Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is it's just a Hollywood farce - with Kelly Thorpe | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Actually got way further than expected on my flash attempt (gear pre-placed) Solid links through all the crux moves, will definitely have to come back for this thing. Absolutely nails for 25 though, I’ve done 26 faces that are less sustained than this!
|
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18 | ★★ Cypress Avenue | 65m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Moonarie | ||||||
Checkers Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Pagoda Original | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch is where all the action is. P2 is exciting for five metres then the difficulty is over far too soon
|
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Fri 20th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Siren | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spicy step across then glorious exposure on the latter pitches
|
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
23 | ★ Cellular Destruction | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Quanked my onsight trying to place gear before the traverse
|
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Amnesia repeat. Did it properly and placed gear on lead this time
|
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Fri 29th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
22 | ★★ Plimsoll Line | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Some interesting climbing, if very repetitive. Would probably only lead it with the piton stick clipped
|
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23 | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
WOOOOO!!!!! Been dreaming of doing this onsight for five years. Went for it on the last day of my trip and it went down! So unbelievably stoked!
|
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Wed 27th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the best climbs I’ve done out here!
|
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Tue 26th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantle | 90m | ★ Good | |||
Just fantastic! A few bold sections (particularly at the start of both pitches but the climbing is delightful
|
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15 14 | ★ Gecko | 48m | ||||
Don’t know if I followed the proper line because this felt quite hard and bold for 14. Similar climbing to brolga with good but spaced gear. Tricams and double ropes help.
|
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
21 22 | ★★ Speechless | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Honestly a fantastic grade 17 but for some sketchy moves down low on a loose block
|
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25 | ★ Seamy Side | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go after getting tangled up in the crux. Start is very contrived to avoid using the leftmost arete (and you may as well anyway if you want to place safe gear for the traverse)
|
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22 | ★ Mediterranean Sundance | 20m | ||||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Much nicer than my onsight lap two years ago now that I know how to jam
|
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat lap to set the gear for some friends
|
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Rack - with Justin Wimmer | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 | ★ Nero - with Justin Wimmer | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Placed three ball nuts in the space of thirty centimetres as a novelty
|
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20 | ★★ Christian Crack - with Justin Wimmer | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit of a journey but got up in the end
|
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16 | ★ Crucifixion - with Justin Wimmer | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis
- with
Bradd Jimmink
1
26
40m
2
26
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unreal!!! Never in a million years did I envision getting on this. Fortunately Brad brought the psyche and I now have another unforgettable memory to add to the collection out here. Came within millimeters of onsighting P1 then stoked with the flash of the 26 finish of P2
|
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
23 | ★★★ One Day Hero | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go. Thought I was on Dancing Gnome. Pumped myself pretty well placing gear then misread the top sequence and blew the OS. No Bolts in this climb anymore
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Is it an Onsight? Is it a flash? Is it a red point? Who knows, life is all one big mess anyway. Fun enough, but not as sustained and full value as ODH
|
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Wed 20th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - with Justin Wimmer, Nia, Nia O'Connor | 25m | Average | |||
Delicate moves in the middle
|
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - with Justin Wimmer, Nia, Nia O'Connor | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this one
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First half of the route climbs like an absolute dream! 2nd half is a bit on the bold side. Bring plenty of slings to wrap around chicken heads near the top
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - with Caleb Skirrow | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some excellent mingling
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | ★★ Horrorscope | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fluffed my onsight by placing gear in a finger lock in the initial seam. Everything after that went first go. Psyched!!
|
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18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Had a good fight up the middle crack. Donated my share of skin and blood to a particularly sharp jam
|
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
20 18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Full value for the grade! Done several easier feeling 19’s at the mount. Slung block in sentry box and nylon sling/rope for anchor at the top that could get you back to the ground with a 70m rope (just). Both okay quality for now but can easily be backed up with good wires
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Bradd Jimmink, Lucas Marie | 27m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a serene parable of a climb. Didn’t even think something of this level was possible after 3 months laid off with injury. Looked across at the line from the bath atop Clytemnestra just as the sun struck it this morning, visualised the moves and thought “that’s going today”. And go it did. Perhaps the most ataraxic climb I’ve ever done. What an experience. What a route. What a place
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
10 | ★ Clytemnaestra Buttress | 45m | ★ Good | |||
stretching and sun salutations in the bath for sunrise is the best way to start a day
|
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13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Stoat Steps Out | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 14th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
15 16 | ★★ Arab | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Simply delightful! Really not too difficult for the grade either. Third pitch is stellar and could almost pass as a mini Mari
|
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Wed 13th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Justin Wimmer | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Delightful
|
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Tue 12th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Is it a true onsight if I’d already done the first half when working Final Departure? Probably not. Am I still going to claim it in true BestOfTheCrag style? Heck yes. Brilliant route!
|
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Thu 7th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quick burn to suss the moves. All feels doable but that crux is gonna require some oomf
|
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Thu 7th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The old amnesia onsight after toproping it years ago
|
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Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Extra G - with Caleb Skirrow | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty contrived, but good climbing nonetheless. Bomber gear the whole way up
|
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Sat 26th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Mr Hyde | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely mix of jams and face holds
|
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13 | ★★ Rush of Blood Direct Finish | 18m | ||||
18 | ★ Jeckle | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Start is fine so long as you trust your feet
|
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Fri 25th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stoked!! Starting to get my trad game back
|
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Fri 25th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
25 | ★ Playing With A Different Sex | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Did all moves but one first go. Injured pulley meant that right hand crimp was a no go, one to file away for the future
|
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23 | ★★ On High | 20m | ★ Good | |||
19 | Hassan | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Packs a punch
|
||||||
Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid | 20m | ★ Good | |||
One move wonder
|
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20 19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Small fiddle gear. Most likely trustworthy but delicate nonetheless
|
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Mon 21st Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Delightful way to spend an evening
|
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Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crooked Mile | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Chimney’d the start. Goey crux up top
|
||||||
Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Fly By Night | 20m | ||||
18 19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start is committing but lovely finger locks and bomber gear for the rest
|
||||||
19 19 R | ★ Void | 15m | ||||
Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
21 | ★★ Raise the Titanic | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Smooth moves with good gear where you need it. Two balancey cruxes
|
||||||
Fri 11th Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney | 110m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 9th Feb 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
15 | ★ Lords Prayer - with Sam Quinsey | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Some funky moves
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Resurrection - with Sam Quinsey | 14m | ||||
Seconded after wussing off the start on lead. Note to self, next time bring shoes that actually still have rubber on the toes. Blerghhh
|
||||||
15 | ★★ Shedidit - with Sam Quinsey | 13m | ||||
16 | ★ Golgotha - with Sam Quinsey | 15m | ||||
Wed 15th Dec 2021 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Fiddlesticks | 65m | ★★ Very Good | |||
first pitch is kinda average with some suspect blocks but the second pitch is phenomenal!
|
||||||
Sat 11th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
23 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mucked my hand sequence up and ended up doing some messed up undercling layback the whole way out of the roof. Kinda glad I was on a top rope and not going for the ground up onsight, because no way I would have been able to place any gear 😅
|
||||||
Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
17 18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably easier if you can span between the jugs. Bomber gear all the way up
|
||||||
Mon 13th Sep 2021 - Moonarie | ||||||
Gargoyle Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Hunky Dory | 35m | ||||
17 | ★★ Apehanger | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very very cool
|
||||||
14 | ★ Funk | 16m | ||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle | 40m |