Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Drift Bay | ||||||
The Boneyard | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Enfant Terrible - with siâny | 6m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
25 | ★★ Coup de Grace - with siâny | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★ Carte Blanche - with siâny | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
17 | Cranium - with siâny | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Diamond Lake | ||||||
Rumour Mill | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dream of Bobby Calves - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gotta be the best 17 on bolts I’ve done anywhere
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23 | ★★ Canary in a Coal Mine - with siâny | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Could have sent but was fretting about my damaged rope, i’ll come back for it after the trim
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | ||||||
24 | ★★ Lunge Starter - with siâny | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Millimetres from the send
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17 | ★ Fingers Columbia - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice moves up high
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Car Park Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ It Only Looks Expensive - with siâny | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Also dutty
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17 | ★★ Rhythm and Blues - with siâny | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dutty
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Gorge Road | ||||||
Leonardo's Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Man That Wasn't Here - with siâny | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Rest day sift
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17 ~16 | ★ Cliptomania - with siâny | 27m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Gorge Road | ||||||
Magnum Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ RD - with siâny | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
One move an it’s over
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18 | ★ Teen Wolf - with siâny | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Kingston | ||||||
Bob Marley’s Corner | ||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Send Me That Love - with siâny | 31m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing! quite techie through the roof
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Kingston | ||||||
Christmas Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Shadows On My Face - with siâny | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice long chill pitch
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19 |
★ Joyeux Noël
- with
siâny
2
19
31m
| 49m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mega route. Cool climbing and gets pretty serious up top.
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Thing - with siâny | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Megafun! Glad to get the onsight! Wasn’t elated at first cos I felt the rope when I cut feet at the lip, so did it again just to prove to myself that I didn’t cheat it.
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16 | ★★★ The Mission - with siâny | 28m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty cool, not super.
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19 Hard | ★★ 88 Chocolate Treats - with siâny | 31m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
So good, best climb of the day!! Cruxy down low and the coolest rock up top. 3 stars all the way
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
North Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Vege Patch - with siâny | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Warm up
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19 | ★★ Wallace - with siâny | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cadbury Flakies - with siâny | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not the best rock, but lots of different moves
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23 | ★★ El Zymer - with siâny | 12m, 4 | ||||
Climbs like a chipped windowpane
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Cave Woute — 2 attempts - with siâny | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves down low, but travels through some of the worst rock quality on the wall. Got tricked into going high at last bolt
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22 | ★★ The Overhangover - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Traversed in from left for onsite attempt, fluked the jumping direct start on red point
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17 | Big Easy - with siâny | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
More like the big dirty!
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18 | ★ Purple haze - with siâny | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice undercling pockets and an elegant topout
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20 Hard | ★★ Bowels of Mercy - with siâny | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bowels of no mercy!
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17 | ★ Concrete thinkers - with siâny | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Red Wall | ||||||
15 ~14 | ★★ Red Arete - with siâny | 93m, 28 | ||||
More bolts than the titanic! Skip ever other one for the proper alpine experience. Nice flowy climbing. Keen to come back for the solo.
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Finish Me Off — 2 attempts - with siâny | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to read onsight. Fun climbing, skip the first bolt
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16 Hard | ★ Sideways - with siâny | 14m, 5 | ||||
Pointy
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17 | ★ Reach Around - with siâny | 14m, 6 | ||||
The arete is your friend
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19 | ★★ Humpy - with siâny | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool moves down low, mellows out as you get higher
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Little Big Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out - with siâny | 45m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and chill mini multi with all the bolts one could desire!
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | ||||||
20 | ★★ Disco Inferno - with siâny | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Spectacular climbing, 3 bolts of pure glory, with a testing top out. Best climb in the area
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | ||||||
17 | ★★ Lincoln Blondes Have More Fun - with siâny | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good!
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete - with siâny | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun, good holds all the way
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Punakaiki | ||||||
Bullock Creek Hanging Gardens | ||||||
18 | ★★ Dogs in Space - with siâny | 18m, 6 | ||||
Absolutely fantastic
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17 Hard | ★ Bush Chick - with siâny | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sloping sanding
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19 ~20 | ★★ Illusions of Inadequacy — 2 attempts - with siâny | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Absolutely fantastic route to the last bolt. Then you just slapping sandcastles to the anchor, detracts from the whole affair a little, but still my favourite climb on the wall
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Punakaiki | ||||||
Punakaiki Valley Weka Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Gretel - with siâny | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Up and down in sand shoes
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15 | ★ Weka Watch - with siâny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Up and down
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14 | ★ Eehaw - with siâny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Up and down
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16 ~15 | ★★ View to Sea - with siâny | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mega Jugs
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21 | ★★ The End of Motion - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super chill up till the roof then about about grade 20 through the roof, someone left their tick marks on the good holds through the roof so kinda spoiled the onsight feeling.
Guidebook says 17, 21 on here, I reckon it sits somewhere in-between
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Turiwhate | ||||||
Stegosaurus Crag | ||||||
13 | ★★ Hoki Spire variant - with siâny | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun! done in full white out conditions in approach shoes (I forgot my climbing shoes on the longest approach of the trip).
Brought all the gear to camp, but the weather turned so decided to head back down, only just got this one in
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Angel Face | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Face Race - with diego | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool climbing, whipped off just below the 5th bolt, quite the launch! Look forward to taking it again one day
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 Easy | ★★ U Haul - with diego | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm up for the area
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22 | ★ Tropical Storm — 2 attempts - with diego | 15m, 6 | ||||
Fluffed the first moves off second bolt thanks to wet holds on first attempt. Hung around a little too long on the second attempt but just managed to pull it off with the pump nipping at my heels
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Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Albert Terrace | ||||||
15 | ★ Quacker - with siâny | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad lil ramble
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20 ~21 | ★ Peggy Peggy Phew — 2 attempts - with siâny | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sandstonebag! At least on the hard end of 21! And you want a good belay for the crux moves otherwise you’re smacking the ledge (which I did, though thankfully lightly, on the onsite attempt). But the crux moves are elegant, and make it a veryworthwhile route
did it clean on TR, and will definitely get it on the next shot, but had to leave as the school group from hell arrived before I could get back on it.
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17 | ★★ Rongbuk - with siâny | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route, different being on such polished sandstone
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Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Salome Maloney - with leo, Diego | 16m, 5 | ||||
22 Hard | ★★ Colonel Malone — 2 attempts - with leo, Diego | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Becoming a proper project . reckon it’ll go next time, I forgot all the beta
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19 | ★ Dream of White Elephants - with leo, Diego | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cool climbing, nice warm up. Remembered how to climb in the second half
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Tiger Wall | ||||||
25 | ★ Southern Exposure | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tiny bit of the french free down low, great climbing up top
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24 | ★★ Where Angels Fear To Tread | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Every move, unlinked, I reckon it could go
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows | ||||||
19 | Winky The One Eyed Snake - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Definitely not the best route on the wall
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19 Easy | ★ Half Man, Half Biscuit - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good warmup, even though only 2 bolts on the route, they are placed perfectly
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20 | ★★ Learning to Fly - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sick climbing! Good fun
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23 | ★★ New Years Revolution - with Jemima, siâny, leo, Diego | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool climbing! Slopey roof, blew the crux move being too dynamic
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Surgical Strike Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Satanic Verses - with Diego | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool moves down low
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22 Hard | ★★ Surgical Strike — 3 attempts - with Diego | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Full heartbreaker crux at the top
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21 | ★★ Midnight's Children - with Diego | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun! gets burley at the top
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Shelf | ||||||
17 | ★ Aide’s Climb - with Jemima, siâny | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Warmdown, slight sandbag, not top of the pops
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Legends Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Legends In The Baking - with Jemima | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm up, straight forward climbing on good holds. fun and a lil pumpy
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Tiger Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ American Dream - with siâny | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super cool climbing, techie and strenuous. My first 23! 3 attempts, Working the moves on 1st, pumped out at last draw on 2nd. And got it on the 3rd! stoked
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Legends Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Whispers And Moans - with jemima | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Techie climbing too late in the game
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Roofs | ||||||
21 | ★★ Friends In High Places — 2 attempts - with jemima | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Type 2 fun
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23 | ★★ WYSIWYG — 2 attempts - with jemima | 15m, 4 | ||||
Few shots on the desperate moves between first and second bolt
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Paynes Ford | ||||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★★ Rawhide - with siâny | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Such a sIck climb!! stoked to get the onsight, great flow on mega jugs
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18 | ★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka - with siâny | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So much to see! old rings, rock cut by rope, cool moves with a bit of spice, not enough to get the legs’a shakin tho.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Pōhara | ||||||
Cathedral Rock | ||||||
20 | ★ Buon Giorno Principessa - with siâny | 19m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Few mooves through a couple rooves, then up the stegasaurus’ spine
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16 | ★★ Dolomites Dream - with siâny | 19m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Never seen a bolted chimney before!! Too much fun
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16 | ★ Muccavello - with siâny | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Fence Buttress | ||||||
15 | Hypocritical Mass - with siâny | 15m, 5 | Crap | |||
Abysmal
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22 | ★★ Career With Prospects — 2 attempts - with siâny | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, easy tick for the grade
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21 Easy | ★ Kerry's Climb - with siâny | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun time on steep terrain
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Disillusions of Grandeur - with Gem | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun! some heavily glued holds out of the cave
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Rage Wall | ||||||
19 Easy | ★ Carbon Neutral - with Diego | 20m, 7 | ||||
Super manky start
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21 | ★★ Leaning Wall - with Gem | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Committing and fun!!
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19/20 | ★ Out On A Limb - with Diego | 18m, 5 | ||||
Warm up
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Year Right Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Nanny State - with Jemima | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Thought this was wiki leaks and chose as a warm up, real awkward and had frozen hands, took a whip on first bolt after foot slip, then got lowered and did it fine 2nd go.
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17 ~18 | ★ Wiki Leaks - with Jemima | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Really awkward stiff start with high bolt, then mellow to the top, forgot to grab my draws off Jem so skipped the top 2 bolts so I had anchor draws.
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Rage Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Buddies - with Jemima | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Breeze Bay | ||||||
The Boiler Room | ||||||
19 ~18 | ★★ Steam Punk - with siâny | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Best of the 3 sampled routes, great climbing until above the last bolt.
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18 | ★ The Old Boiler - with siâny | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Lichen it
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17 | ★★ Summer Dream - with siâny | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stopover while hiking the Godley heads loop, part of a triathlon of a day. Chill and fun climbing
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
18 | Pimple On The Arse Of The Universe - with siâny, the gang | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Year Right Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Funacation - with siâny, the gang | 22m, 7 | ||||
Link up with Wikileaks post crux for a fun ramble
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
Ataturk Wall | ||||||
22 ~22 | ★ Bush Telegraph — 3 attempts - with siâny, the gang | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Short but sustained, on the hard end of 22 in my opinion
|
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15 | ★ Stainless Sproutings - with siâny, the gang | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Nothing to write home about
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17/18 ~16 | ★ Bush Tucker - with siâny, and the gang | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Super chill, some cool moves, like the inclusion of the crack, still shedding it’s skin
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★ Day Tripper - with Leo | 20m, 9 | ||||
Techie and tenous, getting used to the bubbly slopers
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14 | ★ Spiffhanger - with Leo | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice intro
|
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Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Camels Hump | ||||||
Omega Block Area Lower Tier | ||||||
21 | ★★ Slug’s Honour - with Sian | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The best of the 21’s at the hump, far outshines boogie IMO
|
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19 | ★★ Law Enforcer - with Sian | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, seemed like a sandbag on on-site attempt, bit once you know what you’re doing it’s very simple and not that strenuous. optional cam above last bolt but not needed.
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20 | ★ Blind Justice - State Of Shock link up - with Sian | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Schmear
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