Ascents by Tobias Auth having Distinct route

Pumpy with a final boulder. Cool double tufa section. Awesome view from the top and a great first day with the DUS crowd.

Pretty epic! The non-eliminate felt massively run-out in one spot. Balancy top part with the right-hand edge. After not climbing on sandstone for some time I wasnt used to these tiny, sloping footholds. Grade at the time was 7a.

My new benchmark for mega-classic! Very intuitive and a kneebar every 3 moves. First 7a+ onsight.

Didn't climb the first crux direct. Went out to the right at the rooflet.

Yay, kneebar. Fun juggy rooflet at the top. 7a/ 7a+

Challenging until the very end! Felt like two routes in a row with a rest in between. A little bit thin for the amount of rope weight further up. The part with the mantle onto the ledge (traversing a bit right and back left again) made me think I was going off route. Hard/ antistyle* 7a+ and absolute onsight limit today. *The closer you can get to the wall the easier. Should be easier with better mobility.

A very worthwhile intro slab. The tufas above are great fun! Next time in two pitches – 40m of rope are heavy.

Okay tufas. Best pocket and hueco bulge ever!

The crux is the best part about this. Solved it with a high left foot. Layback into long gaston – if that makes sense. Partly smooth brown rock – glad to OS. My OS beta felt like 7b but saw better beta by Basti. Comparing to other 7a+es on Kaly that grade seems fair.

Nice rock and a moonboard-style boulder at the bulge. Maybe 6B moonboard level. Upper end 7a. Could be a Kaly 7a+.

Impressive line. Less bolts than elsewhere on Kalymnos. Very good sustained tufa climbing in the first half. Funky second half. Mostly endurance but also some smaller holds and harder technical moves. Crux for me was the part to the big black tufa. Went more left than right there. Very pumped as I got to the big sitdown rest "hotel room" close to the anchor. Leif shot a video of my ascent. Took me 25 minutes. My first 7a+ flash. I was wearing my resoled Vapor V's.

Video of the ascent:

Awesome route! 3rd go send. Low end 7b if you're tall.

Beta (Mostly to remind myself): First crux reachy and awkward but easy enough to still do it. Crucial foothold beta by Steffen: Foothold 10cm above the big undercling jug for the left foot for matching the edge. Right foot far right to shift sideways to the first hole. Mediocre foothold for the left and high foot way out right to push left to the 2nd hole. That hole (the smaller, hourglass shaped part of it) with left index and thumb, turned in, standing on the edge matched before w/ the left foot and reaching up w/ right hand to a decent rail. Dyno with high right foot and going with the left. Almost fell after sticking it. 2 more jugs to the anchor. #sportRP

A beautiful, natural line of fine tufas and broccoli holds. RP 2nd go after checking out the crux. All time top-10! #sportRP

Awesome techy climbing on broccoli coated tufa-features, techy scoop, juggy end. Loved it! #sportRP

Crux is to traverse left on small but nice holds. Good footwork helpful. Ticked this off as 2nd route of the day quite easily (Low 7a+). Great to see improvement over the previous trips. #VVV

Can't believe that it went first try this year. Even with putting the draws in. Techy triceps-heavy crux in the corner. Wasn't sure if my foot would pop but it didn't! Some more moves on mediocre holds to the jugs. Super happy! My first 7a+. #VVV

Send!! First route of the day. Also put the QDs in. Hyped. — Seems to be quite condition dependant. My skin was quite worn but grip was good and even though I only warmed up with resistance bands, I could hold on to everything well. 6c to the resting point above the slopers. Then lock-off strength to reach the good crimp. Clipping next QD late from a sidepull pocket (maybe shoulder/ gaston). Then the friction foothold left around the arête to reach for the top holds. Actually ok as a warmup or 2nd route. #VVV

5th go of the season! Sticking the last dyno felt incredible! #sportRP

Videolink: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovx7OlwO9qE

One of my trip favorites! 35 meters of great sustained climbing with a lot of cool moves and an awkward start. A little runout and exciting. #sportRP

RP 2nd go after putting draws in after tapas and chocolate cake. Where we met Chris Sharma and Dave Graham. (L'Aprador)

Awesome but really stiff! Hard fight finding beta and reaching the anchor. Crux after the kneebar with a pocketed blob and no good holds for the right hand while traversing left. Kneebar pad for the left is useful. Flash by Jude was impressive. Josie found it reachy.

Great fun! I was glad not to fall off the spicy entry boulder. Closer to the onsight than on "Non Stop" but still some more pocket juice needed. Good one to try again!

A tough warm-up! Hard, crimpy crux in the first half and a super technical, long slab to the chains.

Amazing tufa route with a power crux on pockets and sidepulls in the 2nd half. 2 attempts. 1st one hanging the draws and checking out the moves. 2nd one falling at the undercling in the first half and some hangs working the upper crux. Did all the moves but couldn't link it yet. High priority project for 2018! Should go after bouldering some 6Bs and maintaining endurance.

Not often that I call reachy. Quite worn out.

Various ways for the last meters of tufas. Tried really hard OS and fell off after screaming while trying to hold the shallow pinches. Signs of desperation in the crux/ big, completely black spots on the rock. Still worth figuring out (some hidden jugs or dihedral beta). Didn't try to RP. We met and talked to Dicki Korb here.

2 shots. Did all moves first attempt and had a great onsight go. 2nd go with aid because it was hard on my skin. Some great moves. Didn't notice the polish first go but felt pretty polished 2nd go. 7b?

I expected condition dependent and I got it. Crux hold high up (mini stalagmite?) was wet or maybe my skin was seeping. Much better than anticipated and really fun! No low crux. Without the cruxy bit at the top it's really fun and techy 6c+ ish. All moves onsight to the wet stalagmite. Everything else dried off well during the day and climbs really well! Recommended!

Two boulder-cruxes and an awkward top-out. Some sharp holds. Would like to ask a geologist if those holds are real. Too good to be true.

Didn't trust my feet here. Only two other climbers here today and conditions were great.

A big step up from Jorgos Bogos. Onsighted first half/ bottom crux. I recommend a two finger pocket board-warmup before climbing this. (At least I would have needed one.) Had to take two or three times at different spots in the upper crux. This route gets you in an awesome position on the wall!

Working this was fun! Fell off the crimpy right-hand pocket at the top crux 2nd go. Some more laps and being a little fresher should make it work.

Had to project the upper bulge crux for some time. Everything else first try. Fell off going for the biggest hole on the bulge, thinking it was the victory jug – it was not (maybe because it took it from below instead of sideways like Frauke suggested) and some more hard moves until the wall eases. I was struggling to find decent bodyposition/ footholds and to depump on the massive jugs under the bulge. Anyway: Awesome route! Definitely in my Frankenjura Top 3 so far. // Climbing this while Leonardo was doing "RDI" to the left.

Some really cool moves but physically and mentally very demanding. Onsighted until last hard move of the first half but barndoored out because I had my feet wrong. Then spent ages projecting the last few moves which are less than obvious, quite different from the rest of the route and probably only nice if you do them. Did that part one time out of 20 but couldn't replicate. Really dependant in body position! Solid 7a+?

What the guidebook says – hard crux.

Thin crux low down that seemed impossible to me. Low friction. I thought I was doing another route. Everyone seemed confused with the identification of routes in sector A. Numbers on the rock don't match guidebook numbers.

Odd style with its diagonal edges. Didn't like it much first try. Long fall into 4th bolt including belayer collision. Left gear behind that was taken and not deposited at the base. Ugh.

Onsight by Tim. Flash was out of reach but nice project. Easy climbing to the first, short and sharp pinch crux - wet at the time. Longer main crux sequence just above. Last bit below the anchor is sharp and easier. Only got to the top while toprope cleaning.

Not enough friction and power to hold the pinches. Maybe with fresher skin.

Unpleasant I thought. Even in todays good conditions. Aided top crux.

Bouldery and beta intensive start on a variety of different holds. Saving skin for tomorrow so no 2nd go.

Super polished crux on shitty, blocky holds after the tufa bit.

Still no idea how this is possible. Tried hard and took some nice falls with Tom. Did most of the crux after clipsticking the crux QDs (with kev's stick). No chance for me to take a hand off to clip though. Maybe still "good" but it probably needs a recoating because the holds are super smooth. Restday tomorrow.

Dyno crux still spits me off.

Skipped first lock off move. Took a big fall in the crux. Checked out all moves but no power and endurance left. Right middle finger a little sore from Tempête. Maybe some more easier routes first to get used to sandstone again.

Got to the undercling crux that I could not figure out. Very spaced bolting and hard for the grade.

Not bad but unobvious climbing with dead ends, strange holds and too sharp for me to give it a send go. Took a couple of falls (into the bolt above the cheese grater bit), that trashed my rope-end and shins.