Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 14th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Shield - with Darren | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I had always heard this was a bit of a testpiece, but apart from one move, I think it's actually easier than Sandy Bay Road. Still, it is a nice climb.
Only needed 2x5BD, 1x4, 1x0.75, 1x0.5 and a large nut. Could eat up plenty more mid-sized cams in the easy stuff after the crux move, but not really needed.
|
||||||
Thu 1st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Ultrasound - with Alice | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really happy to get this. Climbed the start and traverse much more easily than expected, then came the rests at every opportunity. Even though I wasn't far from popping off a couple of times, I wish the finger crack section was longer. Next time I think I might try traversing in on the Split Column traverse and work my way down towards Ultrahard.
|
||||||
Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sassanach - with Alice, Shirley | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Currently quite filthy, and the bottom two shrubs could do with large trims.
But really good solid climbing the whole way, and the most awesome knee jams I've ever done. Would be great to get more traffic on this one.
|
||||||
Sun 31st Dec 2023 - Mt Blackwood Summit | ||||||
23 | ★★ Run to the Hills - with Darren | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Foot slipped on smear in crux and took a good whipper. Blue alien popped, but wire below was bommer. Smashed a tree at the base, will need trimming to remove spikes.
Toprope first next time to figure out crux move.
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Poisoned Equanimity - with Darren | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool, and felt fairly easy for the grade. No really defined crux move, just a bit sustained in the top half.
|
||||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Skyfall - with Max | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Quite a lot of decent climbing, but definitely a little contrived in places, and only just sufficient gear!
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Digitalis - with shirley, darren, laura | 62m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Light Fingered Maddison - with Janet | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome little climb. First thing in morning, got really bad flash pump faffing on the bottom part and couldn't remember if top half was hard so was sure I was going to fall,
|
||||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Lassie's Wall | ||||||
11 | ★ Puppy Love - with Janet, tom, caroline, hugh, baz | 15m | ||||
12 | ★ Ballyhoo - with Janet, tom, caroline, hugh, baz | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Step Tier | ||||||
16 | ★ Peacepipe - with Dave | 80m | ||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Lowdina | ||||||
18 | Quine - with Deano, Alice | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
Very sharp, several loose blocks.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ The Danger Hog Shuffle - with Deano, Alice | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good and unobvious. More climbing in it than expected.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Rudge - with Deano, Alice | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Intimidating start for a 16. Easy after the first 5m.
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Lumbar Cruncher - with Deano, Alice | 23m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Thought I was on the 'unescapable' direct version, but apparently I accidentally followed the logical line and escaped. Not great, but hard moves and good for a pump.
|
||||||
18 | Lithium low down - with Deano, Alice | 25m, 1 | Average | |||
A couple of ok moves, but overall pretty average.
|
||||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Lowdina | ||||||
16 | ★★ Chocolate - with laura, sarah, alice | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Yoda - with laura, sarah, alice | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Lowdina | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Drury Line - with Janet, shirley | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome moves the whole way. Crimp fell off in middle of getting around 1st roof, now hold is bigger but less positive. There must be an easier way to do the first roof part if it's 22!
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Mother Earth - with Janet | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin hands felt hard!
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Things to do While Waiting for the Apocalypse - with Janet | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant enough, but not really sure why it gets two stars.
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Something Scurrilous - with Janet, shirley, dave | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb, but waiting for that block to pop out!
|
||||||
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Holiday in Cambodia - with Shirley | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful climb, but got pumped silly
|
||||||
Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Mount Roland | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Rysavy Ridge - with Janet, Shirley, Grace | 400m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Gabriel Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★ Spike Route - with Deano | 12m | Average | |||
17 | Lay Down - with Deano | 12m | Average | |||
17 | ★★ Loose Money, Juice Money - with Deano | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant. Good variety of sizes.
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Lost in Space - with Deano | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great committing starting moves followed by pleasant moves. Finished up arete instead of super easy chimney.
|
||||||
Sun 30th May 2021 - North Esk | ||||||
Riverbend | ||||||
21 | ★★ Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter - with Darren | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome finger locks, should do it every visit.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Only Boomerangs Come Back - with Darren | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Face climbing on dolerite is scary
|
||||||
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Cape Raoul | ||||||
Pond Gully | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Dementia Adventure | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good climbing, but crack still a bit flakey. Access not too bad via Smileshine at The Jim, and single pitch mostly horizontal scramble to reach start of the climb.
Cool moves on first pitch, changing into the more typical Cape Raoul burlfest by the third pitch. Awesome long section of hands high up on the 3rd pitch. Full 60m pitch to ledge, but other chances to belay from 45m.
|
||||||
15 | ★ Smileshine - with Mike Hitchcock, pete | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Very pleasant easy climbing,but be careful of loose rocks on ledges at top!
|
||||||
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
Whiskey Jim Hill | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Whiskey Jim Crack - with Isaac | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Should have had the flash, but faffed too much. Figured out hand sequence at crux, all good after that. Roof crack itself easy but super fun. Keen to do more laps, but need 3x3BD first.
|
||||||
Mon 9th Nov 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Mansion On The Hill | ||||||
18 21 | ★ Out on the Streets | ★ Good | ||||
Wasn't totally sure which crack it was meant to be, so I did a lap on each. Both easier than 21. LH narrowing crack climbs harder at top, RH crack easier but more consistent with perfect chicken wings.
|
||||||
23 | ★ Sticky Willow | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A few fun moves, but would need to be careful with gear as the rock on the LH side of the crack at half height is about ready to come out.
|
||||||
23 | ★ Going to Horeb | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Need to have feet sorted at crux, but otherwise a great little route.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Gates of Hardened Steel | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great little crack, wish it was longer and a bit further from other features.
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Night Train | 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent, but my thin fingers couldn't quite handle the start move.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Clandestine Filth | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great jamming, even with very raw hands.
|
||||||
20 | Never Going Back | Average | ||||
More moss than rock, but a few nice moves while joining Missing Josiah
|
||||||
21 | ★ Bringing on a Thirst | ★ Good | ||||
Good finger locks.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Chuck it in the Backburner | ★ Good | ||||
Actually better than it looks.
|
||||||
Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Rabbit Trap Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Anal Fist Fuck Four | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Mt Blackwood Summit | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Mills Direct - with Mike Hitchcock | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dirty in the bottom corner, but amazing section of finger crack straight after. As good as a Squamish finger crack!
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Who Among Them - with Mike Hitchcock | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome pitch the whole way. Definitely worth the stars.
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Mills Route - with Mike Hitchcock | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start definitely harder than 18, but still good.
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ Airbourne - with Mike Hitchcock | 28m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pulled up ropes for "grade 8" start. Crack really easy to where it steepens, then awesome finger locks. Upper bolted part a complete change in character, and felt a little harder than 20.
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Nov 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Right Man Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Touch and Go - with Deano | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Tried on lead first, wasn't game to layback the start. Reached high for small purple wire near too of crux. Couple of really nice moves above crux.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Cold Chat - with deano | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Not hard, but definitely aware of the ledge.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Lefthand Man | 10m | Average | |||
2 moves to a ledge, then a couple more moves.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ The Right Man | 11m | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★ In Between Man | 10m | Average | |||
2nd shot. Buggered it up trying to stay off Ng Man holds at halfway. Much harder without them!
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Hot Gossip | 10m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Last Year's Man | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 26th Oct 2020 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Atlantis - with Alice | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt good. Really solid, just getting a little pumped.
|
||||||
21 | ★ Lactos - with Alice | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Satisfying to get on a finger crack. Top section was a little damp and mossy, but not too bad.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Stone the Crows - with alice | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ No Parking | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 | ★★ No Standing | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great and slightly improbable moves on the bolted section. Eases off quickly after reaching the crack.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Well Then Bruvvers | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun last move.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Five Bells | 20m | Average | |||
Fun enough, but currently a death route for the belayer, with a block on the LH side of the offwidth about 5m below the anchor only just held in.
|
||||||
24 | ★★★ Orient Express - with deano | 23m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A couple of burns with Deano. Will definitely put draws on before redpointing, and use a cam in the lower horizontal.
Need to save fingers for the super thin layaway holds below roof.
|
||||||
Mon 16th Mar 2020 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★ The Joy of Specs | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Some fun moves, with a couple of hards bits. Took a couple of attempts to sort out the crux sequence. Would clean up very nicely.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Skidrow | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The traverse into the second crack is defin8tely the highlight.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Sitting Bull | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Just stayed in the L crack to practice more wide stuff.
|
||||||
23 | ★ Short and Sweet | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Really wish this was much longer. Would be a nice lead, with good l9cks just after the crux.
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Deathrow | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome moves! Good rests, but makes unfit people like me work for it. Stepping of the slab and avoiding the barndoor is great fun.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ First Disadvantage | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Perfect hand stacks!
|
||||||
17 | ★ Sawsea | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty cruisey. Either go straight up or move L at the top.
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Lethal Injection | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fingers not strong enough for that start. Looks pretty easy from a couple of holds higher.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Prison to Praise | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Found it quite nice overall, with a slightly tenuous crux reaching the overlap.
|
||||||
Tue 24th Dec 2019 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
19 | ★ Ethnic Cornflake - with deano | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Something new for Deano. Filthy, but actually quite good. Pity about the ledge part way, else it'd be pretty pumpy.
|
||||||
Tue 24th Dec 2019 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Icarus - with deano | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead p1, follow p2. Good fun, took all the 2 and 3 BDs we had. Pretty steep for the pipes
|
||||||
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Echelon Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Ultimate Everything - with Mike | 380m | ★ Good | |||
Has a few enjoyable pitches interspersed with a lot of pretty ordinary ones, making it seem like the aim is just to get to the top, not climb great rock. Guide book gives it 10b, but I'd say 10a considering the first and last pitches.
|
||||||
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Boomstick Crack - with Mike | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 9th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Slhanay | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Pipeline - with Gregory | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing, but also a bit scary! Ran out of gas about 1.5m from turning the lip on the overhang, took a good fall onto a tipped-out 6. Pulled up and got a bomber 4 big bro just a little lower, and made it through on the second go.
Only had one 3 big bro and 2 4 big bros along with the 6 BD cam. A 0.4 BD off the belay and a medium nut at the top, otherwise 6 BD and larger for the main pitch. Next time will try to find 2 more 3 big bros, and will feel much safer!
|
||||||
Thu 8th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Joe’s Crack - with Gregory | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely topout move, very insecure after the rest of the climb!
|
||||||
5.7 | ★★ The Locker - with Gregory | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Wonderland - with Gregory | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super slippery feet to begin with, and then a fun dilemma near the end of the traverse.
|
||||||
Mon 5th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Lower Crag X | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Baby Lizard - with Soren | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super relaxing, climbed in approach shoes.
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Centre Street - with Soren | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing with good rests and gear. Would be best to do in a single pitch, but had already used most of my thin stuff down below. Upper corner didn't feel any harder than the crack below, just intimidating with the ledge below. Great wires in corner.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | ||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★★★ Slot Machine - with Soren | 52m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Diedre - with Soren | 220m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Lower Apron | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Rambles - with Soren | 90m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Linked p1 and p2, and then p3 and p4. nice climbing, but probably not worth it unless you don't have to wait around for it.
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Genesis | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Geniside - with Soren | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great little line with plenty of bomber small wires when you leave the cams in the car...
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Papoose | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Hairpin - with Soren | 120m | ★ Good | |||
Pitches 1,2, and final pitch. Moved onto The Scenario in the middle.
|
||||||
Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base South | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Rutabaga P1 - with deon | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good quality clombing mostly 5.9, with a couple of harder moves the the first 15m.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Rutabaga P2 - with deon | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome pitch. Might only get 10d on some other areas because of all the no-hamds rests, but still great. Easy gear, lots of wires and cams <0.5. Hard finish if you go the wrong way.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★★ Arrowroot - with deon | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ringlock upper section unless you have small hands. Save some 0.5-0.75 cams for the top.
Careful lowering with a 60m rope- will need to downclimb last couple of metres.
|
||||||
Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Grand Wall Base Grand Wall Base North | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Seasoned in the Sun - with deon | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt harder than Arrowroot, but still excellent climbing. Super well protected after the start.
|
||||||
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Sentry Box - with deon | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sweet! Second go. Screwed up the crux sequence and took a whipper at the top after I didn't find a helpful foot left of the crack at the top. Things went almost perfect second time around.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Sentry Box Direct - with deon | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super hard, and would be a super sketchy lead. Tough bottom, pretty sustained, with a crux finish. Just as well the top rail is positive!
|
||||||
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Brunser Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Fist - with deon | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds Seal Cove | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Lost Horizon | 45m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice, moderate slabbing.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ Future and a Hope | 48m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★ Diamond Seas | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | Whānau | 30m, 8 | Average | |||
A bit wet and super cruxy.
|
||||||
5.8 | ★ Bubble Buddy | 35m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.10d | ★★ The Next Generation | 48m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome little sections, would get 3* if it was more sustained.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ Beware the Tides of March | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few broken crystals, minor slips, and completely trashed shoes, but managed to stay on somehow.
|