Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 25th May 2023 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Merlin Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Nuggets | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Please Stop | 13m, 4 | ||||
17 | ★ A Dull Thump | 13m, 3 | ||||
Tue 23rd May 2023 - Wunderbar | ||||||
15 | ★ School's Out! | 15m, 4 | ||||
18 | ★ Blaze of Glory | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 28 Caffeine Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Girls Just Wanna Have Fun | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 10 Agony and Grotto | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Jumped Up Country Boy... | ★ Good | ||||
Good route with some wee sneaky moves in between. Having to relearn how to smear after a year away from the limestone 😅
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16/17 ~17 | ★★★ Tales From The Riverbank | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mega-Classic route. A bit of everything from crack, huge pockets and jugs, and a sneaky technical traverse. Probably one of the best routes in the country in terms of quality of a climb.
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Borland Valley | ||||||
The Dusk Wall | ||||||
20 |
★★ Sol de Tarde
1
19
2
20
3
16
4
14
5
19
| 170m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Gumps But-tock | ||||||
23 Hard | ★ Escape From Belsen | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few goes to get the bottom crux dialed. Went through the bottom 12 metre section clean and begun to mantle when I realized the next bolt was 6-7 metres diagonally along a extremely dirty slab, Realizing a fall here would result in a serious injury, I downclimbed back to above the crux and retreated. Would not recommend climbing until another bolt has been added and the route cleaned.
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Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
16 Hard | ★ Winona's Big Brown Beaver (Alternative Start) | 25m, 9 | ||||
19 ~20 | ★★ Epilogue | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good route. Might be a touch sandbagged for a 19. First moves are pretty cruxy to the third bolt.
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Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
17 Easy Hard | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pompeii | ||||||
18 Hard |
★ Vertical Deep Dish Pizza
1
2
| 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Dirty but fun!
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Amazing Grace | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cruxy traverse start through the roof. Throw in a knee bar and lock off to the jug.
Pretty happy getting this first red-point attempt. |
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20 | ★ Nearly Smoko | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start into a great crux. The three metres of climbing near the top makes it worth while.
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Mihiwaka | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Living In The Past | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeating the classic with Lulu. Super chill, slightly overhung with wild exposure.
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Red Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | ||||
Repeat
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Lunar Wall | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Nicked
1
2
| 55m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Tad runout, but not very difficult climbing. Good line!
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Bolt City | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off at the red-point crux again… few days rest and should be good for the send.
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Dragon's Lair | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★★ When The Fog Lifts | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great old school line. Another repeat.
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
17 ~19 | ★ Great Ape | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Definitely a sandbag for the grade. Most people agree with this.
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Mon 27th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Bolt City | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Labours Of Love — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | ||||||
14 Hard | ★★ Alesia | 18m | ||||
Hadn't being on this in a while. Good fun, gets the stars easily.
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
17 Easy Hard | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Laps
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Kai Whaka Pai | ||||||
17 | ★★ Climb Into The Unknown | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ Pulp Fiction | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 Hard | ★★ Strike! | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Bolt Suburbia | ||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Philanderer — 4 attempts | 12m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Working the route. Made ground up through the crux. Gotta work the top gear section. Definitely harder than 24
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
17 Easy Hard | ★★ Mr Muggs | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent route. Probably one of the best new route of the beach
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19 | ★ Holy Wall | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Port Chalmers Quarry | ||||||
18 ~17 |
★★ The Great Escape
1
15m
2
10m
3
10m
| 35m, 15 | ||||
Mellow day out teaching the misses to multipitch. For a 15 may be a touch sandbagged. Second and last pitch probably more between 16-18.
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Wed 14th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | ||||||
19 | ★★ Surreptitious | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup lap.
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21 Hard | ★★ Leap of Faith | 18m, 2 | ||||
Being wanting to try this for a while, but always a bit intimidated by the last pieces of gear to the bolt. Committed to the Onsight, got through the first crux traversing onto the hanging face, fell pulling through the crux. Those pockets are shallow and non existent 😂
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Upper Sunnyside | ||||||
17 | ★★ End Rib | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cheeky repeat
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Backside | ||||||
19 Hard | ★ Gauntlet | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Balancy slaby goodness
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Southern Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Flash Bomb | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Long nice climb with a cruxy layback crack.
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
16 | ★★ William Shatner Handbag | 10m, 4 | ||||
16 | ★★ William Shatner Handbag | 10m, 4 | ||||
18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Givin | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Givin | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Backside | ||||||
19 | Whiskey Train | 14m | Crap | |||
Did half the climb, turned out I had no small gear and didn’t want to deck on the ledge going into the crux. Fun times down climbing 15m.
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
17 | ★ Cave Party | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
20 | ★★ Bowels of Mercy | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
Tricky for the grade
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18 | ★★ Bum Plod | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Kiloton | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Angel Face | ||||||
17 Hard | ★ Bury The Brass | 15m, 5 | ||||
Cheeky wee quick session in the morning.
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16 ~17 | ★ Easter Rising | 15m, 5 | ||||
17 | ★ No Quarter | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Britten Crag | ||||||
The Alcove | ||||||
21 | ★★ U Haul | 10m, 3 | ||||
Sweet line. Had to rest on the last bolt.
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Circus | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Ticket Office | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First time climbing at the circus. The climb isn't difficult. Technical and absolutely beautiful. Handjams, jugs, and bridging up the corner to the top.
Reason for the hangdog is because the exposure is pretty unreal. Goes 0-100 real quick. |
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pompeii | ||||||
15 | ★★ Amphora | 6 | ||||
18 | ★★ Pyroclast | 8 | ||||
Beautiful balancey moves after the overhang.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Main Wall Right Side | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Perfect Skin | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Working the bottom moves and getting used to the holds on top rope. Linked from the ground up to the third draw. Gonna work the crux next session.
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20 | ★ Fluid Ethics | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty nice route, lots of interesting technical moves. Stupidly lost my balance after the crux and had a surprising fall 😅
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Hidden Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Stuka | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumpy through the overhang.
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Manhattan Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Grand Central | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reachy moves through crux. Good fun.
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Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Red Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Red Arete
1
14
37m
2
13
36m
3
15
20m
| 93m, 28 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
22 | ★ Piranha | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Saying it is a 21 is a bit bold. Defiantly at least 22. Overhung the whole way up. Great line.
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Southern Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Shady Rest | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yeah four months off does nothing for endurance... Went from onsighting this to having to rest halfway up... Let the process begin once again
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18 | ★★ Ride the Spiral | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Waerm up. Techy traverse.
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 34 Adios Gringos | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Buster | 3m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Pongoloid | 3m | ||||
VB+ | ★ 11 | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Regurgitator | ★★★ Classic | ||||
When the fingers are weak, at least you can still climb certain styles 😂
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Thu 5th May 2022 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 30 Tricky and Dr. Jones | ||||||
V1 | ★★ 20 | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long exposed arete. Tricky to find feet in the dark
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V0 | ★ 17 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V1 | ★★ Jericho | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun highball.
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V4 | ★★ Quake | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 5th May 2022 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 22 Rubic and Placebo | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Vlad the Impaler | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I wanna see someone do the sit.. looks nails.
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Tue 3rd May 2022 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 33 Headlights Boulder | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Right Headlight | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun highball! Committing slab at the top!
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | ||||||
Map 3 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ French Kiss | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not enough skin or rubber…
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | ||||||
Map 2 | ||||||
V1 | ★ NO.56 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 2nd May 2022 - Elephant Rocks Bouldering | ||||||
Map 3 | ||||||
V0 | NO.30 | Average | ||||
“Jam crack - wow” got a single jam 😂
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V5 | ★★ NO.38 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Classic line. All about the beta.
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Rainbow Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Aurora | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We literally spent the day between us trying to get this thing. Literally, how is a route this short so pumpy! Pretty much ended up being power endurance laps for us Highly recommend this wall to people who like powerful techy climbing but have not much endurance just like me! The 26 looks stellar! Whole wall is 20 degrees plus overhung.
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Cutting | ||||||
22 | ★ Nothing But Scum | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
All of us could flash the route to the anchor. None could clip the anchors. Though the last bolt is 40cm below the anchor, assuming that you clip the last bolt, then the climb is done, then clip through anchor. Unless the actual crux is clipping the anchor?
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21 | ★ Perineal Massage | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy jugs
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Sunnyside | ||||||
20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Foot popped. Almost flipped upside down 😬 saved myself by having my foot off to push off… not my greatest moment.
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Cattle Yard Back Side | ||||||
21 | ★★ Schist the Bed | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slaby climbing to awkward finish.
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19 | ★★ Gluten Free Vegan | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Cattle Yard East Face | ||||||
24 | ★★ Should Have Gone First | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great way to round off the climbing season! Super stoked on this. First redpoint attempt. Bouldery crux into a rest on the slab. Then sustained crimping with a few slopers and pocks in between to the anchor.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
Confluence Crags The Den | ||||||
17 | ★ Mary had a little Jamb | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bottom part is pretty eh. However, it steadily improves in rock quality as the climb goes up.
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Sun 10th Apr 2022 - Borland Valley | ||||||
The Dusk Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Eventide | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First ascent. Boulder crux move, V3/V4. Really cool, ends up into an opposing pressure double gaston with bad feet and small holds. Could be a potentially harder grade than 23.
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Fri 11th Mar 2022 - Bluff | ||||||
Matai Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Wisecrack | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Splitter cracks start. Pretty difficult jams in terms of getting friction. Pretty stoked to get the onsight on this one as I had being saving it for an onsight attempt
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
North End Slabs | ||||||
19 | ★ The Johnny’s | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Lots of pressing
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19 | ★ Slab de Jour | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fell on this one a long time ago!
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Sycophrantic Arête | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sycophrantic | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Old school! Such wicked moves up the pocketed rock! Recommend to anyone. Though incredibly hard to onsight.
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Fri 25th Feb 2022 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Shotwell Slabs | ||||||
19 |
★★ Twelve Good Summers Variation
1
16
2
16
3
19
4
18
| 140m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Combined first two pitches. Fun climbing.
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Fri 25th Feb 2022 - Lake Adelaide | ||||||
Barrier Knob North East Face | ||||||
20 |
★ Daisy
1
12
2
19
3
18
4
15
5
20
| 140m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing on incredible granite. Only a light rack needed.
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Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Babylon | ||||||
Right Hand Wall | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Random Element | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked all the moves besides the crux.
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Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Babylon | ||||||
Left Hand Wall | ||||||
17 |
★ The Groper (The Groper P1)
1
17
12m
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 21st Feb 2022 - Colac Bay | ||||||
Pounamu Cove | ||||||
V3 | FA ★★ Slippery Slopers | |||||
FFA. Cool technical moves on slopers.
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V4 | FA ★★ One Move Wonder | |||||
FFA. Name says it all. Cranking on finger tips in the crack.
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Classic Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Dead Go Direct/The Dead Goat Arête | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup.
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
Sycophrantic Arête | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Climb With No Name | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. All us went up to get across to the open project. This line is a good warmup for it.
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22 22/23 | ★★ Al Ritchie's Open Project (1995) | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky to grade. Suggests 24 in the old CD guidebook from 2004-2006. Though could be between 22-24. Great climbing, worked the moves on top-rope. Quite staunch climbing, very varied to typical Castledowns style.
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Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Castledowns | ||||||
The Picnic Spot | ||||||
18 | ★★ Steam Punk | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start is quite boulderery. Makes it tad harder than 18.
|