Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Gower Peninsula | ||||||
Third Sister Area Rams Grove | ||||||
6b Hard | ★ Fucose | ★ Good | ||||
6a+ | ★ Insatiable Appetite | 13m | ||||
Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Riglos | ||||||
Fire | ||||||
6b+ |
★ Luis Villar
1
6b
30
2
4+
20
3
5+
20
4
5+
20
5
6a+
20
6
6b+
30
7
6a
30
8
5+
25
9
6a
30
10
5+
30
11
5
25
12
4+
35
13
5
20
| 340m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
Big day out! Super long route with some pretty subpar rock quality in a lot of areas. Started climbing at 0930 - finished at 1730. Would recommend Galletas over this route, definitely better rock quality x though this route is better protected. However, still is a good day out! Aided through the harder pitches to speed up time, took a decent fall on second due to holds been pulled out of the wall.
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Tue 9th Jan 2024 - Riglos | ||||||
Fire | ||||||
6b |
★★ Galletas
1
4+
25m
2
4
30m
3
5
15m
4
6b
20m
5
5+
35m
6
5
30m
7
5+
30m
8
4+
30m
9
4+
30m
10
4
20m
| 270m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mega-Classic line. Definitely one of my biggest days I’ve had on a wall. Some beta for those going for it, the chimney pitches are pretty bold and will only have 2 or 3 bolts over 30-50m supplemented with old threads. I’d recommend bringing more slings for others attempting to replace these threads. The final chimney pitch has had its hangers removed and only the studs are remaining, this pitch, is combined and is about 50m, pretty spooky pitch!
Overall mega line! We just did this in the middle of January and it wasn’t too cold. Absolutely classic, exposed, sustained, and adventurous! |
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Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Riglos | ||||||
Chichin | ||||||
6a+ |
Directa a la Luna
1
2
Climbed first pitch and bailed due to suss rock | 70m | ||||
Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Riglos | ||||||
Mallo Colorado | ||||||
5+ |
★★ Carla
1
5+
35m
2
5
35m
3
5+
25m
4
5
20m
Great Route! | 120m, 10 | ||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Riglos | ||||||
Mallo Frechín | ||||||
6c ~6c |
★★ Irene y la Paz
1
5+
30m
2
6c
30m
3
6a
30m
4
6b+
20m
5
6a
30m
6
6b
35m
7
4
15m
| 190m, 15 | ||||
Sun 24th Dec 2023 - Wintour's Leap | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Ankarana | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good line.
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6b ~6b+ | ★ Much Zebu Crudness | 12m | ||||
Unless holds have broken off for the crux move, it's pretty unfeasible for the grade. Definitely have done easier 6B+'s than this 6B.
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5+ | ★ Out Of Your Tree | 12m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ Hard | ★★★ Still Nice and Still Sleazy | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent line, but quite strange with the ten spaced bolts below, then widely spaced throughout the cruxes. Nonetheless, a good line.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Upper Cliff | ||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★ Rock hard in a funky place | 4 | ||||
Tough for the grade
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6a | The Toaster Man | |||||
5b | Better Pepper Feta | |||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5c | ★ Old Men Last Longer | 15m | ||||
Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
6c | ★★ Finishing Touch Direct Start | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 start into 6B. Fun route.
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Upper Cliff | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Chepstow Killer Appliances | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wet layback crack
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6b+ | ★★ Shin Gi Tai | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Foot slipped on the last move 😂
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5a | Stranded No More | 10m | ||||
Wet day warmup
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Sa Gubia | ||||||
Isla Bonita | ||||||
6a+ ~6b |
★★ La Isla Bonita
1
6a
24m
2
4b
16m
3
6a+
20m
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lulu stepped up and wanted to do the crux pitches on this one. Pretty incredible route, though once again, extremely tough in the grading. The final pitch wouldn’t go anywhere near a 6A+, definitely felt more near 6B/+
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Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Cala Barques | ||||||
Metrosexual | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Metrosexual Easy | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Steep jug pulling! Got intimidated on Metrosexual 😅
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6b Hard | ★★ Left Cave Traverse — 3 attempts | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tough for the grade. Good fun! Takes time to find the feet.
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Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6a | ★★ Pineapple | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b Hard | ★★ ORC | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard for the grade, technical start is pretty tough.
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Thu 23rd Nov 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Muro de Caimari | ||||||
6a Hard | ★★ A la fresca | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a Hard | ★★ Paparazzi | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Probably on the hard end of the spectrum… took a session to work out the crux. Had one red-point burn but the little razors after the tufa made quick work of the skin and couldn’t hang on long enough :’( definitely one of the harder of the grade I’ve been on.
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Wed 22nd Nov 2023 - Cala Magraner | ||||||
Cueva | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Tufa Big | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super tough! Stopper move in the roof, going from one pad crimp in the pocket and a small horn out dynamically to positive holds.
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Wed 22nd Nov 2023 - Cala Magraner | ||||||
Pipiricot | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Sa nyoscla | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 22nd Nov 2023 - Cala Magraner | ||||||
Xorics | ||||||
5c | ★★ The Juggy One | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best of the grade.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
6c | ★ Shadows Run Black | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Upper Cliff | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Better in Than Out | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★ No more dream cafe | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ | ★ Hong Kong Wedding | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Wyndcliff Quarry | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
7b | ★★ Timmy’s Poorly Hand | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough V5 boulder problem to a rest, then stacks into another V4 problem. Beautiful line.
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6a | Same Old Story | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
6a+ | ★ One Tooth Short of a Smile | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Beautiful movement through crux.
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6c+ ~6b+ | ★ Empire and Revolution | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived, easy to make the climb softer.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Gower Peninsula | ||||||
Third Sister Area Rams Grove | ||||||
6b Easy | ★★ Molasses | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Cardiff and Newport crags | ||||||
Dinas Rock Cheesy Rider Area / Road Side | ||||||
6a Easy | ★ The Democratic Republic of Maesteg | 10m | ★ Good | |||
6b+ | Creme de Rockfall | 10m | ||||
Short with one hard move.
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6b+ | ★ Creme De Roquefort | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good route, proper crux in the middle split up by rests
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7a ~7b | ★★ Rob Roy | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This rig is the definition of a sandbag! Holy fuck has a route never felt so off for what it’s graded. Maybe holds and feet have broken off?
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Cardiff and Newport crags | ||||||
Dinas Rock Cheesy Rider Area / Road Side | ||||||
5+ ~6 | Pot Head | |||||
6a+ ~6b | ★ Mr Potato Head | ★ Good | ||||
A tad scary clip through the roof
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6c | ★★ Charlie's Rusks | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Techy runout climb! Stoked with my climbing and training lately!
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Cardiff and Newport crags | ||||||
The Valleys Sandstone Glynfach | ||||||
7a | Psychotherapy | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
First 7a/23 onsight 🎉 crimpy, delicate, and technical climbing up the vertical face. Average line.
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6b+ | ★★★ Killer Arete — 2 attempts | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Pumpy line. Blew my onsight at the last bolt, went second try. Best climb I’ve done in Wales at the moment. Beautiful moves and holds.
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6a+ Hard | ★ Fach Roo | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty pumpy little number.
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Gower Peninsula | ||||||
Rhossili Beach Black Wall | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★ Rum Thieves | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Sand was low making the route a tad tougher. Boulder start through barnacles.
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Gower Peninsula | ||||||
Rhossili Beach Mermaid Cove | ||||||
5c | ★ Scarfish | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
4b | Al Perchino | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Gower Peninsula | ||||||
Costa Del Major West Wing | ||||||
6a | ★ Wings of Derision | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Gower Peninsula | ||||||
Costa Del Major The Nose | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ S'not Right | ★ Good | ||||
5a | ★★★ Nosey Parcour | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Cardiff and Newport crags | ||||||
Witches Point and Temple Bay Castle Upon Alun | ||||||
5c | The Fat Controller | 8m, 4 | Average | |||
4c | Off the Rails | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
4c | Jump on The Gravy Train | 6m, 2 | ||||
6a | Bush Trimmers Corner Link-up to Knee Trembler | 15m, 8 | Don't Bother | |||
First route in Wales probably turned into a first ascent 😂 Link up between two routes, traversing leftwards.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - Bavella | ||||||
Punta d’Arghjavara | ||||||
6a+ |
★ Altore
1
5c
2
5c
3
6a
4
6a
5
6a+
| 150m | ★ Good | |||
Lead all pitches. Pretty great route. Pitch four is the mega classic pitch with beautiful granite tufoni jugs! Last pitch includes the triple mantle! Wouldn’t recommend to climb without a 70m rope. Rope-drag gets pretty annoying at points.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - A Tyroliana | ||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★★ Tyro flan | |||||
5a | Fait maison | |||||
5c | ★★ Mèche béton | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5b | Lèche béton | |||||
6a | Tire aux lianes | |||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Paupiette | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ J’ai le bras court | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty tough to route for the grade. Might be slightly harder than a 6B. Excellent line.
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Thu 29th Jun 2023 - La Restonica | ||||||
Picellu La Conque | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Papet | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent slab route!
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6a Hard | Unnamed 2 — 3 attempts | |||||
Might be a bit of a sandbag for the grade. More likely a tough 6A+ or soft 6B. Clipping third bolt quite sketchy, took three tries to get the third clip!
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4c | ★★ Las chicas mandocinas 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Nago | ||||||
Le Trincee Sasso di Zoe | ||||||
5b | ★ su & zoe | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★ diciottanna | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Slab finish.
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Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Nago | ||||||
Le Trincee Centenario | ||||||
6c | ★ kaiser Schmarren | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Very similar to Castledowns style climbing. Crimping on sloping dimples and weird pinches. Good line.
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Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Monte Colodri Rupe Secca | ||||||
5c |
★ Aspettando Martino
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 180m | ★ Good | |||
Lead every pitch. The top three pitches are excellent, however they are reasonably polished, especially the 4th classic pitch. Gets pretty exposed!
Regarding the descent, more information should be available. We ended up doing numerous pitches along the way. I would recommend staying roped up for this and using numerous slings for the trees that are solid along the way, further along this traverse there are bolts, but they are infrequent until near the end where you meet the via ferrata. The descent definitely requires care. Trad gear is not required.
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Fri 16th Jun 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massi di Prabi Masso A | ||||||
5a ~5c | ★ Ancora una | 15m | ||||
About a 16.
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6a ~6b+ | ★ Zoo Camping | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Don’t know if the translation between French and Aus grades in enstranged, but there is no way this is a 17/18. Tough polished route, but excellent
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Fri 16th Jun 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Calvario | ||||||
6b+ ~6c+ | ★ K e K | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent route, fell on the at the last bolt going to the anchor. Last crux is definitely harder than the grade. Fairly sandbagged crag.
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Sfiancata | 10m | ||||
Polished and sandbagged. Excellent route, definitely is harder than the proposed grade.
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5b ~5c | ★ Mam | 9m | ||||
4b | ★ Popi | 8m | ||||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Wolfsberger Grotte | ||||||
7+ | ★ Bambus | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sharp holds, like a blunt knife
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6+ | ★ Superhussy | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky crux
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6 | ★ Gell, Nancy | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
7+ | Fuck | 25m | ||||
Almost cant climb the easier section due to the bushes.
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7 | ★ Kleiner Dicker | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Zehnerstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Neuer Alter Hut | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful climb. Polished fit holds make you grip just that bit harder… goes about 20/21. Again with the grade translations 😅
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4+ | Gerade Westwand | 30m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
6 | ★ Flying Duck | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
AU to German grading is a tad tricky. This one felt about a 19/20
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Thu 25th May 2023 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Merlin Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Nuggets | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Please Stop | 13m, 4 | ||||
17 | ★ A Dull Thump | 13m, 3 | ||||
Tue 23rd May 2023 - Wunderbar | ||||||
15 | ★ School's Out! | 15m, 4 | ||||
18 | ★ Blaze of Glory | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 28 Caffeine Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Girls Just Wanna Have Fun | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 10 Agony and Grotto | ||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Jumped Up Country Boy... | ★ Good | ||||
Good route with some wee sneaky moves in between. Having to relearn how to smear after a year away from the limestone 😅
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16/17 ~17 | ★★★ Tales From The Riverbank | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mega-Classic route. A bit of everything from crack, huge pockets and jugs, and a sneaky technical traverse. Probably one of the best routes in the country in terms of quality of a climb.
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Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Gumps But-tock | ||||||
23 Hard | ★ Escape From Belsen | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few goes to get the bottom crux dialed. Went through the bottom 12 metre section clean and begun to mantle when I realized the next bolt was 6-7 metres diagonally along a extremely dirty slab, Realizing a fall here would result in a serious injury, I downclimbed back to above the crux and retreated. Would not recommend climbing until another bolt has been added and the route cleaned.
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Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
16 Hard | ★ Winona's Big Brown Beaver (Alternative Start) | 25m, 9 | ||||
19 ~20 | ★★ Epilogue | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good route. Might be a touch sandbagged for a 19. First moves are pretty cruxy to the third bolt.
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Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pompeii | ||||||
18 Hard |
★ Vertical Deep Dish Pizza
1
2
| 30m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Dirty but fun!
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Holy Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Amazing Grace | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cruxy traverse start through the roof. Throw in a knee bar and lock off to the jug.
Pretty happy getting this first red-point attempt. |