Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Farm Park | ||||||
Quake Faces | ||||||
15 | ★★ Tweedly Dumb - with Simon | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great movement on great gear.
|
||||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock | ||||||
The Keep | ||||||
21 Hard | ★★ Falling Buttress — 2 attempts - with Simon | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome, Chamonix style climbing. Techy traverse followed by great gear and finger jams in the corner. Cam placements: Red #1 and yellow #2 in the corner, then green #0.75 to protect the mantle onto the ledge. Broke a hold on the onsight attempt and came off, sadly. #2ndGo
|
||||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Surgical Strike Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Cattle Thief — 2 attempts | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 25th Feb 2023 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Polish The Cucumber | 28m, 3 | ||||
Mon 28th Nov 2022 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
23 ~21 | ★ Tool | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Clipping bolts.
|
||||||
Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
19 | ★★ Quarry Climbing | 12m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. As good as I remembered!
|
||||||
Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lost Art | 12m | ||||
Fell, ripped all 4 pieces of gear, decked and went for the bonus tumble down the hill (taking Nathan along for the ride). Very lucky to escape with only bruised body and shattered ego.
|
||||||
Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Revelations - with Nathan | 16m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 26th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Fri 26th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Pump House Wall | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Direct exit this time, up the ramp. Maybe 1-2 grades harder than traversing right below the ramp? I guess it depends on how low you traverse and your reach?..🤷🏻♂️ Thanks Colin Arnott for providing the motivation to come back to try this method, definately a super fun sequence and more aestetic way of climbing the route.
|
||||||
Wed 24th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★★ The Gecko | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Even with all the beta it still felt so hard for the grade. Harder than 'Don't You Wish', 'Hers' & 'The Potarta'. I don't even know how shorter climbers would climb this one. Didn't have my rack so clipped the 3rd bolt of 'BS&S'. Climbs OK as a sport route, in case that's putting people off from trying...
|
||||||
Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
Sam Bullock Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dorje’s Direct | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. A couple of moves felt harder than 16...
|
||||||
Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
19 21 | ★★ Mihna | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. A little scary, but so much fun!.. This one probably needs to get downgraded?
|
||||||
Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
Sam Bullock Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Roaring Meg | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. 17 is fair as a redpoint, but stiff for the grade as an onsite. One or two committing moves that are much easier to do as a repeat.
|
||||||
19 20 | ★★ Puffin | 19m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Not too hard for the grade. Felt more like 18-19 as a redpoint... Possibly my favorite route at TP?
|
||||||
Mon 15th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Hers | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Harder than I remembered... Actually quite tricky and beta intensive. Took me a while to remember the right method. Finger locks and foot jams, followed by a layback and big move to the top jug. Great route and good pro. Still think 24 is soft compared to sport climbs at Stonies, the way I do it anyway.
|
||||||
Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★ Renegade | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
21 20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Face only.
|
||||||
Sun 7th Nov 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ogopogo Strikes Back | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Mon 25th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
26 27 | ★★ Renegade (Open Project) | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The holds are there but it's back to back hard moves from the first bolt to the top. Placed a #0,4 & #0,5 in the horizontal crack at the top. Really cool route that deserves to see some action.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
21 23 | ★ Tool | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Doesn't make the grade, using the knee-bar beta. Only marginally harder than route to the left of it.
|
||||||
Wed 13th Oct 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Eric Forgot his Draws | 11m | Average | |||
Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ignimbrite Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Sun 16th May 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
Chad Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ I, I, I, I, I | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Well hard.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Chad | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 8th May 2021 - Britten Crag | ||||||
Cabbage Tree Wall | ||||||
20 18 | ★ Ollie The Dead Cat | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 20th Feb 2021 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Crackerjack | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
15 | ★ My Foot Slipped | 10m | Average | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
17 | ★ Fremantle | 11m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Hard for the grade if you climb straight up at the bolt. Maybe 18/19?
|
||||||
Sun 24th Jan 2021 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 22nd Dec 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
20 | ★★ Ben’s Big Day Out | 22m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Difficult climbing on dirty holds with average gear. At my very limit. Recommended for climbers who are already very confident climbing on gear at 20/21, and I guess I barely make the cut...
|
||||||
Tue 15th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. What a route!..
|
||||||
Tue 1st Dec 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ I Do My Cleaning in the Rain | 14m | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Felt harder today... Great route; 3 stars without the guano.
|
||||||
Tue 1st Dec 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
15 | Don’t Shoot the Takahē | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Really fun now that it's clean. Great route to learn/practice placing gear.
|
||||||
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
15 | Don’t Shoot the Takahē | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Cleaned the route and added an anchor.
|
||||||
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
15 | Don’t Shoot the Takahē | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Fun moves on good gear. Not bad at all by local standards. Will continue cleaning and add an anchor.
|
||||||
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
21 20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Crux up top felt easier but still hard for the grade. Probs a soft 20 if you use the left wall or stiff 21 if you go straight up. Great movement throughout; I love this one!
|
||||||
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Midday Lightning | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Wed 21st Oct 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
17 15 | In Sha La | 12m | Average | |||
Climbed the direct finish straight up the head wall as per ‘Unknown Climb’ (clipping the final 2 bolts). Would deserve at least one star when clean.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Apocalypse (Apocolypse) | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Steeper than it looks. Some pockets on the left and foot holds on the right thankfully so you don’t have to jam your way up. A bit annoying to clean if you use the anchor on the left but still well worth climbing.
|
||||||
Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Chad Wall | ||||||
20 16 | ★★ Chad | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Objectively a solid 2 grades harder than ‘Lobster’ which is of similar style. Great route to force yourself to jam both hands and feet. Will be back for a proper red point.
|
||||||
Wed 14th Oct 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Armageddon (Armagedon) - with Kyle | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brilliant climbing from start to finish. Gear is OK throughout.
|
||||||
21 | ★★★ Revelations - with Kyle | 16m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clear crux to tackle the bulge. Hard to read on the onsite. Fantastic.
|
||||||
Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Pump House Wall | ||||||
21 24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaned the route and inspected holds & gear placements on a fixed rope prior to climbing it. Technical, balancy climbing on poor feet throughout. Honestly the gear is good provided you have small cams. Great placements for cams #0,1-#0,3 and/or nuts at mid height, then for a #0,1 at the crux. All the gear felt really solid. Edit: Climbed by traversing right just below the rail. Slightly easier method compared to exiting straight up the ramp.
|
||||||
Mon 28th Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Sam Bullock Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Puffin | 19m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Favorite trad route at TP! Fantastic hand jams and laybacking. Great gear placements throughout. Grade is consistent with TP sport routes but probably on the softer side compared to other trad climbs. About 1-2 grades harder than ‘Roaring Meg’.
|
||||||
17 16 | ★ Parallel Cracks | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Right-hand crack only with some stemming throughout. Difficulty increases from midway. Great route, too bad the rock is so brittle!
|
||||||
Wed 23rd Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Arch | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jabbar the Hutt (CLOSED PROJECT) | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Grade 17ish climbing on gear up to 1st bolt, then difficult sequence of back-to-back fingery and balancy moves. Heartbreaking finish.
Gear beta: red #1 in horizontal crack after traverse, yellow #2 and/or blue #3 in the main crack, grey #0.4 in pocket 2m below 1st bolt, blue #3 beneath large boulder to protect top-out.
|
||||||
Wed 23rd Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Chad Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Burning Deck | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool climb although rock quality not quite as good as on 'Chad' and 'Lobster'. The style police wasn't watching so I used some jugs on the right arete.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Lobster | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Superb route. A must climb at TP. Still easier than 'Chad'!
|
||||||
Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ignimbrite Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Splendid laybacking for the first 2/3rd. Got me reminiscing Chamonix granite cracks. Well worth bringing your rack to Froggatt.
|
||||||
Wed 16th Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Chad Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Chad | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed in even worse style than last time...
|
||||||
Wed 16th Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Arch | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jabbar the Hutt (CLOSED PROJECT) | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Aaaaaaargh, so close...
|
||||||
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Sittin' on a Fence | 13m | Average | |||
Great start, disappointing finish. If only the finger crack could last longer... Decent pro throughout. Only a couple of moves at the grade, lower down.
|
||||||
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
21 23 | ★ Tool | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt impossible until I found the knee-bar. Super fun, technical crux. A bit of a one-move wonder.
|
||||||
15 | Another Rock Bites the Dust | 11m | Average | |||
Wed 9th Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Arch | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jabbar the Hutt (CLOSED PROJECT) | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 9th Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Elementary | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Doesn't look like much, but actually some fun climbing involved.
|
||||||
Wed 9th Sep 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Sam Bullock Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dorje’s Direct | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
18 17 | ★★ Roaring Meg | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought I was climbing 'Puffin'; ego took a hit when I checked the topo... A couple of moves felt hard for the grade although there are great rests before each crux. I'll give it 18 just to feel a little better. Great gear placements and fun hand jams throughout. What more can you ask for? One of my new favorite routes at TP. Surprising that it doesn't see more ascents.
|
||||||
Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ Jug Abuse | 17m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second go so gear and draws on the wall for send. Fell at the last bolt on onsite attempt; heartbreaking. Felt stiff for the grade and similar difficulty to ‘The Shining Path’. Wonderful and fairly varied climbing.
|
||||||
Mon 7th Sep 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Tool | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Significantly harder than route to the left. 23 feels about right. Having more RPs to protect crux would be useful. Couldn't figure it out today but keen to try again!
|
||||||
Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ My Foot Slipped | 10m | Average | |||
23 24 | ★★ Hers | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First go on lead but worked the moves out on top rope prior to committing. I used the crack to jam fingers and left foot, but also some holds on the face for right hand and foot. Felt 23ish the way I climbed it but it's definitely possible to climb this one in better style. Likely the FA was done by jamming the finger crack only which is surely much harder.
|
||||||
21 20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crux at 2nd bolt is an absolute sandbag for the grade, if you stay on the face (which seems the logical way to go). Left heel hook then finger lock in the crack and then balancy rock-over move. Felt pretty desperate and harder than other 20s at the Springs. The climbing is highly enjoyable from start to finish. In my Top 5 for this crag.
|
||||||
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. I love this climb!
|
||||||
Mon 31st Aug 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Arch | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jabbar the Hutt (CLOSED PROJECT) | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 31st Aug 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
Chad Wall | ||||||
18 16 | ★★ Chad | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crash course in fist & foot jamming... Psyched to come back for this one.
|
||||||
Mon 31st Aug 2020 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
19 21 | ★★ Mihna | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This one must be an eliminate as it felt like 18 max 19. Perhaps the FA was done using the finger crack only at the crux? There is a jug just to the right of it though... No need to clip the bolt provided you have small cams. Offsets are ideal as the thin crack is sort of flaring throughout. Fantastic and surpisingly varied climb.
|
||||||
15 | ★★ Diabolo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat.
|
||||||
Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Brass Monkey | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st pitch: Bring a full single rack of cams from #0.5 up. Tricky offwidth around midway. 2nd pitch: V3ish boulder problem at the first anchor. A few easier, technical moves follow.
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Lust For Life | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Balancy start on the arete leads you straight into the crux sequence of 'The Gecko'. Used cams #0.3, #0.4 and #0.5 in horizontal crack. In my top 3 for this crag!
|
||||||
Mon 15th Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Lust For Life | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Both cruxes dialed; now need to link back-to-back.
|
||||||
Wed 10th Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
16 | Don't Rain On My Parade | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 10th Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Zig | 14m, 2 | Average | |||
Wed 10th Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Midday Lightning | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd favorite trad route at the Springs.
|
||||||
Mon 8th Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Gecko | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally... 2nd go of the day so draws were up but not the gear. Happy to have found beta that worked for me. Really cool route; well worth the time and effort! Probably a sandbag at that grade.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Liang Fen Liangfen | 12m | ★ Good | |||
One-move wonder, not unlike PBJ. Crux felt a little harder but more fun. Not sure why there's a bolt at the top as there's good gear placement just above it. Used cams #0.25 to #0.4 and a couple of small wires at the crux.
|
||||||
Mon 8th Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right of the Fence Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ogopogo Strikes Back | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Felt significantly easier than Atomic Rooster. Not a bad route but the rock quality isn't super reliable. Used cams #2 to #4.
|
||||||
18 17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The start felt really stiff for the grade. Super solid gear though. Used cams #0.2 to #0.4 and a small nut at the start. Too bad the crack climbing doesn't last longer...
|
||||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Favorite trad route at the Springs! Such an aesthetic and fun route + super solid gear. Used cams #0.4 to #1.
|
||||||
Wed 3rd Jun 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Gecko | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 16 | Serenity | 13m, 1 | Average | |||
Sun 24th May 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Gecko | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 16th Mar 2020 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Fremantle | 11m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Would deserve 2 stars if clean. Climbed solely on gear.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 4th Feb 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
17 | ★★ Billy Bold | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Quarry Climbing | 12m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome layback climbing and super solid gear placements. A few crux moves towards midway, in between the 2 cracks.
|
||||||
Fri 31st Jan 2020 - Reporoa Gorge | ||||||
Christmas Crag | ||||||
19 |
★ Four Mantels and a Polish Maid (Four Mantels and a Polish Maid P1)
1
19
| 3 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, technical moves to get into the 2 scoops. As with the other climbs on this wall, the crux felt harder than the stated grade.
|
||||||
Sun 26th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Flake 7 - with Richard Flinn | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Sunset Boulevard | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My favorite trad climb on this wall.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 25th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 20th Jan 2020 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely perfect. A must climb.
|