Still very much enjoyable since the fires although perhaps slightly harder. Hard to tell. A few of the foothold flakes felt a bit looser than I remember and some now might be abscent entirely. Still feels very much like a Booroomba 17 though. The whole thing also needs a clean. The crack has become quite dirty and overgrown. There's also a nasty head sized loose block on the scramble to the anchor that could rain down onto the belay if dislodged accidently.
Climbs really differently to how I expected. Bringing a brush or similar to clean the dirt out of some parts of the crack might increase confidence in some placements, especially for some of the more spicy moves.
Did a variation of this line by traversing into the corner and following the crack system to the right once past the slab crux. Doing the entire slab would be very sustained.
A seriously underrated route with a really spectacular backdrop. Aided the crux move on the final pitch to avoid any risk of a ledge fall while clipping from a wet crack. The granite is vaguely reminiscent of Freycinct but more polished. The first 3 pitches aren't a bad warm-up while the last two are as good as it comes in terms of freeblast-like slabbing and jamming. The right hand variant of the 4th pitch, in particular, is very sustained with interesting moves that don't let up for a solid 40m. Surprisingly little choss for a route not too well trafficked yet. Get on it!
- with
Tony