Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Via Dolorosa | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
3 Rd go, nice to feel like the core is starting to work
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20 | ★★ Strong Men for Jesus | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I am really missing our stick clip. Came down after stressing on first draw. One of the cleaner routes
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20 | ★★ Love And Kisses For Jenny | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Another lower down after clipping first 2 bolts before giving it a proper go
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19 | ★★ Speedy Gonzales | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This felt pretty hard for the grade. Some sneaky knee bars and lots of bridging
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21 | ★ El Rayo-X | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt easier than the 19 and 20s....
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14 | ★★ Rok It To The Moon | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice exposure
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Thu 11th Oct 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ Flake 7 | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Currently there is a fixed wire at the crux ( not ours). This hadn’t been done for a while, lots of leaf litter and cobwebs
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20 | ★★ Great Scott | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Friction is amazing on this rock, pretty thin in places
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17 16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Felt easier than the 16to me, probably crack size
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16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Quite wide ie off width for me
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely climbing. If I didn’t have a toothache today and was enjoying myself more, I may have given it classic
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Wed 10th Oct 2018 - Kinloch | ||||||
Kinloch Crag (K1) | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Wizard | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Excellent rock and interesting moves between pockets
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19 18 | ★ Highland Cling | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Linked in to EW at 4 th bolt which makes it a tad harder, but avoids the overgrown finish
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17 | ★ Rockness Monster | 17m | Average | |||
Nice enough crack, but I have been at Arapiles recently so have high standards
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21 | ★ Romancing the Haggis | 17m | ★ Good | |||
The piton looked a bit suss, but it seemed ok.
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17 | ★ Terminal Stillness | 8m | Average | |||
Ok bottom half, seems to be partly retrobolted
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17 | ★★ Buckets In The Belfry | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting arete, and one of the cleaner routes here
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18 | ★ Crystal Enquiry | 15m | Average | |||
Nice enough but needs more traffic to keep foliage at bay
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14 | ★ Waiting For The Ant | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Getting used to the rock, it looks slippery
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Sun 7th Oct 2018 - Baring Head | ||||||
Ship Rock | ||||||
22 | ★★ Let Me Up | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
It was a bit wet,and cold and breezy, but quite a fun romp, the rock deteriorates up the top. Good bolts. Second go.
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Sun 7th Oct 2018 - Baring Head | ||||||
Long Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★ Right Break (V1) | 6m | ||||
Needed more of a warm up than this provided. Nice area
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ignimbrite Crack | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Kept shuffling the 2 cams and clipping nearby bolts
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20 | ★ Ignimbrite | 20m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
Climbs essentially the same as the crack, it should be further right and go up the groove and it might be ok
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19 | ★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A bit of crack climbing up high, hard start on sore fingers
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19 | ★ Streetwise | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Stout warm up due to pocket finding trouble
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Serife | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really liked this for the grade
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17 | ★ Climatic Conclusion | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Climatic Extension | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The finish makes the climb, though I didn’t find the start that easy
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17 | ★ Thunder Blaster | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy jugging with a steeper finish
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18 | ★ Power Pack | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty and short
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19 | ★ Total Energy | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, but fairly soft grade
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hare Rama | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Lovely welded tuff
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20 | ★★ Jug Abuse | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A quick one as the sun set, was off the wrong anchors which kept pulling me left
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21 | ★★★ Revelations | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too lazy to get the rack from the car, nice open book corner
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21 | ★★ The Shining Path | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely arete with pockets to link. If it went on more it would be classic
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
This was the first one we got on, generic pocket pulling
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16 | ★ The Grim Reamer | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Had a steep groove to add interest
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16 | ★★ Fun Bags | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep fun juggy pockets
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17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice positions, almost like tufa climbing instead of tuff climbing
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20 18 | ★★ Reamed By Percentage | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
From under the roof I went up left side and then back over nose rather than bailing into the 17. Felt substantially harder than 18 but was very fun
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Thu 4th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Volcanic | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really liked this, steep, face and slab styles
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21 | ★★ Sun Strike | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
This was 19 in the guidebook and we both backed off when warming up as the crux looked like it could result in a ledge fall, and it felt harder than we expected. Quickly toproped it to retrieve draws on sunset
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Hanging Rock | ||||||
West End | ||||||
19 | ★★ Brittlemania | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nicest of the 4 routes, some really fun moves and a jump start for me
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21 | ★★ The Antidote | ★ Good | ||||
Had a couple of goes at the start. Found the slab a little scarier
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15 | ★★ Speed King | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Quite hard getting established on this if short
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Hanging Rock | ||||||
Black Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Desire | 15m | Average | |||
Haha, dying of heat exhaustion and the start of this route made me think I was at Nowra. After the v2 start it was easy.
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Sat 2nd Apr 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Roadside Area Roadside Attraction | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Ramp | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Quite a pumpy little crack
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21 | ★★ Aretenaphobia | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Have done before, about 10 years ago.
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Sat 2nd Apr 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Roadside Area Al Cove | ||||||
19 | ★★ Chinese Hospitality | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting feature
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23 22 | ★★ Ferocious Weasel | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Not too hard
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23 | ★★ Roche Moutonnee | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great novelty roof with per madras
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20 | ★ Cunning Linguistics | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I made the top roof harder than needed
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21 | ★ Reefer Madness | 16m, 7 | Average | |||
Didn't like this that much, felt very pumpy
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22 | ★★ The Colonel's Secret | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The draws were on to below crux. Felt pretty slippery, I appreciated the hand jams
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Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Main Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ You Crack Me Up | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Feels easier than 20 now that you don't need to place gear
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25 | ★★★ Lollapalooza (Lollapallooza) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a while to stick the low roof moves. The top is just rather pumpy.
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Thu 31st Mar 2016 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Riverside Kerfuffle Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Te Whanau | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some time in the past, Rpt warm up today. Hard start
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17 | ★ Terrain Spotting | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some time in the past
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17 | ★ Get Kerfuffled | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sometime maybe 2010.
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Wed 30th Mar 2016 - The Chasm | ||||||
21 22 | ★★★ High Ideals And Crazy Dreams | 34m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second pitch was great.
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24 | ★★★ One Way Ticket | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Abseiled over it as it shares anchors with HI CD, and put draws on so not really an onsight
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22 | ★ Granite Gringo | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rock not as nice as at right hand end, some tricky moves
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22 | ★★ Mr. Wolf | 41m | ★ Good | |||
Second (crux) pitch only. Nice underclings and a few hardish moves on the steeper section.
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Tue 29th Mar 2016 - Castledowns | ||||||
Bunny Gully | ||||||
19 | ★★ Kingston Flyer | 24m | ★ Good | |||
Antarctic conditions today
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16 | ★★ Never Say Nevis Again | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Ah, limestone slabs
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17 | ★ Johnny Walker Wisdom | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
A hidden hold under the matagouri
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Mon 28th Mar 2016 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
17 18 | ★★ About Time | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, quite pumpy for the grade due to mystery hold factor.
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Mon 28th Mar 2016 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Eweniverse Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Equilibrium | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Quite desperate even second go as I wobbled up this
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21 22 | ★ End of the Eweniverse | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Not sure how I didn't fall off this. Short on holds around the second bolt
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Sun 27th Mar 2016 - The Chasm | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Groove Armada | 29m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great varied climbing. Stupidly fell of at second bolt first go, came down and then did route to top. Got a bit sprayed by waterfall behind
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21 | ★★ Proximity Infatuation | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Quite pumpy as a warm up to get to next ledge. Was also soaked after belaying with the wind blowing water in
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Moir Moir's Mate West Face | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Pipe Dreams (Pipe Dream)
1
16
lead by
Dave
2
18
lead by
Dave
3
20
lead by
Me
4
14
lead by
Dave
5
21
lead by
Me
6
21
lead by
Dave
7
21
lead by
Me
8
18
lead by
Dave
9
21
lead by
Me
10
20
lead by
Dave
| 300m, 19 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Totally totally top 10.
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Fri 25th Mar 2016 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Moir Moir's Mate West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Lucky Strike | 280m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A good introduction but rather over bolted, given the skills needed to actually get to base. Made it quick though as route finding never an issue. Led alt pitches. Climb took under 3 hours.
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Winona's big brown beaver | 20m | Average | |||
Easier to clean due to anchor placement
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20 | ★ Ejectoflap | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The heavily chalked holds at second roof didn't suit me at all.
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Eldorado Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Golden Showers | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Greek Gift 2 | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Feels quite airy
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18 | ★★ Hell Hath No Fury... | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice stemming
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20 | ★ Like a Lover Scorned | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some interesting arête moves if the sidepulls out of reach
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Mapoutahi | ||||||
Eldorado Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Jospe/Carr Route (When Yuppies Go to Hell) | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Some moments of interesting climbing up groove
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Mon 21st Mar 2016 - Lovers Leap | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crying Time Again | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely worth a visit, this crag
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19 | ★★ Triple Treat | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A little Ledgy, but nice
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22 | ★★★ Side Effect | 24m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yay, not so much jamming
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20 | ★★ Don't Cry For Me Argentina | 24m | ★ Good | |||
A quick lap, and avoided the grotty start
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19 | ★★ Walk Of Shame | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not long ( after the chain ascent) but a bit burly
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19 | ★ Stereo Cameo | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Twin cracks
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20 | ★ Brave Dash | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Would be nice with a bit of traffic. Needs a #4 and 5 up top, which were in the car.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
The Caves | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bowels of Mercy | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
A few nice moves then rambling top
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18 | ★ Purple haze | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Some nice jugs then easy run out top
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20 | ★ Magnet | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Found this stout, but maybe it was the full sun
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22 23 | ★★ El Zymer | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Add a grade or impossible if short. Got fingernails onto rail and did chin up to start.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Main Wall Central Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Burning Sky | 24m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I'm a bit spoilt by fine sea cliffs. This is a bit chossy, but nice moves
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Backside | ||||||
19 | ★★ Jumping Jellyfish | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The bottom half was good with cruxy roof to turn. Unfortunately dirty to anchors. Led first but fell off at roof .
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Fri 18th Mar 2016 - Mt Horrible | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Bird | 13m | ★ Good | |||
A few painful jams
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22 | The Arete | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Looked interesting but felt like contrived climbing
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16 | ★ Slim Jim's Jam | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Was the only route we did that was damp
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18 | ★ Groove in High | 14m | ★ Good | |||
22 17 | ★ Twin Cracks | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Bit confused as to guide
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17 | ★ Arch Dig | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Turned this into a way more difficult route than graded
|
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19 | ★★ Wildman | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Got such a good jam, I tore all the skin on my hand. Great! Had to go and tape up.
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