Showing all 67 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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24 |
★★★ Talk is Cheap
- with
David Gray
1
14
10m
2
24
35m
3
22
40m
4
20
20m
5
23
30m
6
22
25m
7
21
20m
8
17
25m
9
8
10m
| 220m, 99 | Mount Brown Main Face | ★★★ Classic | Thu 11th Feb 2021 | |||
great day with some stunning climbing. Had a rest on P2 . Thought the route could be renamed chalk is cheap given the excess! Back to the van before the rain
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24 | ★★★ Liquid Insanity Direct Finish - with David Gray | 35m, 5 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Dec 2016 | |||
Hadn't planned on arête finish but seemed the logical way to go. Super Spoogy on lower part today
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24 | ★★★ Hypertension | 45m, 3 | Moonarie | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||
Had first bolt clipped. Apparently the old gear flake down low came off. Easier than RH, but still quite intense
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24 |
★★ Church of the Seven Samurai
1
2
| 110m | Blue Mountains | 2009 | ||||
24 23 | ★★ Cruel Britannia | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Oct 2015 | |||
Enjoyed this, double ropes with a high runner to protect start put in from Hendrix
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24 22 | ★★★ Wailing Cockatoo | 45m, 5 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Apr 2009 | |||
the 22 version I think. Gripping
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24 | ★★ Itchy Fingers | 15m, 2 | The Black Range | ★ Good | Wed 19th Oct 2016 | |||
The massive cairn is still too low, and didn't really help me get onto climb. Huge reach past last bolt.
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24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | Moonarie | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||
On Daves gear. The grade 17 hand jam at 2/3 height nearly undid all my hard work below.
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24 | ★★★ Impulse | 18m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Jul 2018 | |||
Glad I stripped the gear between first and second lead attempts, having fallen off on last TCU on first go, a somewhat slow ascent when I left the ground without the grey C 3 s. Oops. Thankfully Dave throws well. Second go went well, had changed back to softer shoes which helped, and taped right hand as the jam glove makes my hand too fat for comfort.
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24 | ★★ Female Friends | 27m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Nov 2012 | |||
One rest on first go when I got lost as expecting 6 bolts- only 3.Did second shot. Nice moves.
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24 | ★ Quasimodo | 18m, 4 | Watagans | ★ Good | Wed 30th May 2018 | |||
Found this the hardest of the 3 classic rebolted 24s, ( speakeasy and new horizons being the others) though it's probably less pumpy, but more delicate.
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24 | ★★ Easy Meat | 25m, 5 | Watagans | ★ Good | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | |||
Gave the rebolt a whirl. A 0.75 needed above last bolt. One of the easier 24 s at MF, nice moves. The direct start awaits.
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24 | ★★★ Animals Route | 25m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Sep 2011 | |||
Opening the account for this season, niceto lead it
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24 | FA ★★ The Sunlit Plains Extended | 40m, 5 | Kaputar | ★★★ Classic | Mon 11th Dec 2017 | |||
FFA. Great second pitch, mostly grade 21 with 2 cruxy bits that felt 25 for me, but failing on lead, dave could do both cruxes quite differently to my sequences and got the tick, I seconded the 25 way.....great rock for Kaputar
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24 | FA ★ The Black Flash | 30m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
FFA. Again, pumped insane clipping the anchor ( single bolt at present). Thanks Dave .
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24 | FA ★ The Bermuda Tyreangle | 25m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
FFA. Not very sustained. Diabolical start, then nice grade 20 from first bolt. Stick clip essential. The gear is good and plentiful, though small. Wires useful too. Gets good for the line.
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24 | FA ★★ Simba | 45m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | |||
About another 4 laps on the first pitch to get up to new second pitch which also did multiple goes. Nice steep line, need good hip flexibility. Not in shade until about 230 pm.
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24 | FA ★★★ No Time for Games | 27m | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Mar 2022 | |||
FFA. Team FFA, amazing what a bit less humidity can do. Interesting to compare our sequences which were quite different, especially on the left traverse. Worth the long walk from killiecrankie instead of Docks forachange
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24 | FA ★★ The Gang-gang Gang | 30m | Killiecrankie | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Mar 2022 | |||
Not as good as the original, the traverse right to join BB is best done quickly on a low spooge day
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24 | FA ★★★ Border Patrol | 25m, 5 | Kwiamble National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Aug 2022 | |||
FFA. Great slab moves, through a Rooflet, a slab Dyno and then a nice finger crack.
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24 | FA ★★ Skeeta | 20m, 3 | Kwiamble National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Aug 2022 | |||
FFA. Dave and I had quite different beta, esp for the top. Reachy but possible.
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24 23 | ★★ Some Weird Sin | 30m, 7 | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Dec 2012 | |||
Upper arete is great
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24 23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | Watagans | ★ Good | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | |||
Great moves, monkey face rock. Given 22 in guide, but had probably had no ascents for 30 years feels 23/24 ish Crux flake gone, but some technical trickery and delicate foot work And desperate reaches of short solves all.
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24 | ★★ Astral Plane | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | |||
Failed again. Hate the start. Tips too trashed today, but at least it was a nice temperature in the gully
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24 | ★★ Horrorscope | 16m | Arapiles | Average | Wed 9th Nov 2011 | |||
Cant do the lower bit due to reach without some crazy grade 26 moves.
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24 | ★★ Storm Front | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Sep 2020 | |||
I wish I’d written down my beta. Maybe I just need to try hard
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24 | ★★★ Evolution | 220m, 55 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jun 2010 | |||
Pitches 4,5,and 6 are stellar and worth the icky bits below
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5.11+ 5.11+ IV | ★★★ Brent's Hammer | 200m | Cirque of the Unclimbables | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Aug 2017 | |||
Dave did all the hard work with pitches 1,3,5. Good quality climbing and nice not to hurry. We skipped pitch 6.
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24 | ★ Left Crack | 10m | Wreck Beach | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Feb 2016 | |||
Not 24, maybe 22 max placing gear.
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24 | ★★★ Worrying Heights | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | |||
Enjoying the 26 pieces of pro I had placed on the red point attempt
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24 | ★★ Nose Job | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 11th May 2022 | |||
Nice to get this off the list, coming back a second day with the beta fresh was worth it. Having the crux wire placed was good for the mind, the rest of the gear is quite straightforward.
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24 | ★★ Universal crack | 20m | Bulahdelah | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th May 2008 | |||
Just like araps. Orange trad route!
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24 | ★★★ Dirty Dancing | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Mar 2016 | |||
Dave and I attempted ground up. Did second shot with the last 5 metres a mystery after coming down before then, though Fave had put last 3 pieces in
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24 | ★★★ Weena two (direct) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Sep 2012 | |||
2 laps today. Nothing over no 1 needed
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24 | ★★ Every which way but Can LH finish | 20m, 1 | Tomaree Head | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Feb 2018 | |||
On the last go of the day after changing sequence each time. Nice and technical and trickier than appearances
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24 | ★★ The Prow - with but prettygood small to medium wires throughout and one old rusty bolt that needs replacing. | 20m, 1 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | |||
Took a bit of cleaning. Unfortunately Robin and John’s bolts are within clipping distance in the lower half, though the crux and above is pure trad, mostly small to medium wires. The old single bolt needs replacing and anchors would be good. will add to the to do list. 23/24 maybe. It too k a number of tries to sort out
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E4 6a | ★★★ Resurrection | 55m | Llanberis Valley Area | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Jun 2014 | |||
I am sure it would have been twice as pumpy placing gear. Lovely face climbing
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24 | ★★ The Philosopher | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Oct 2015 | |||
Took me 2 goes to figure out short person beta, did it clean third go, the fell on lead twice, feel smashed in the 35 degree heat. I reckon add a grade if short.
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24 | ★★★ Walk the Plank | 30m, 3 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Wed 31st Mar 2010 | |||
good friction day. Reachy
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24 | ★★ Graveyard Wall Direct | 30m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | |||
Had forgotten all my sequences after the 22 section and spent two goes trying to sort it. I still find the crux on the "23" bit at the second bolt the hardest of the 3 cruxy sections, but surprisingly it all worked 3 rd go. Will no doubt forget everything before I get back to lead it.
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24 | ★★ New Blue Dress | 10m, 2 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 20th Oct 2017 | |||
Did consider leading but the fall looks ugly if you come off between the 2 bolts as you would hit the triangular ledge
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24 | ★★ Hate Mail | 25m, 5 | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sun 6th Mar 2016 | |||
Led this to last bolt yesterday but bailed to anchors of SsMinnow when run out looked too exciting on the very rusty bolts. Our static was hanging over it so climbed out.
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24 | ★ Brennan's water streak aka BB | 20m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
A bit easier after a clean, some more gear found but rather fiddly eg wires in horizontals and still run out between second and third bolt
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E4 6a | ★ Hello picasso | 20m | Anti-Atlas | ★ Good | Wed 5th Feb 2014 | |||
Some nice moves, didn't trust rock
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E3 6a | ★★ Scimitar | 30m | Anti-Atlas | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Feb 2014 | |||
Interesting moves and spaced but solid gear. Maybe should have led....
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E4 6a | ★★ Sultans of swing | 20m | Anti-Atlas | ★ Good | Thu 13th Feb 2014 | |||
Tried to lead it and wimped out. It actually wasn't that bad. There are harder 20s at araps.
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E3 6a | ★★★ Left wall direct finish | 43m | Llanberis Valley Area | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 30th Jun 2014 | |||
Did conventional, then back climbed and did direct finish. Just my style
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24 | ★ Cumelittle | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 23rd Feb 2017 | |||
Nails. Bonus hard moves for the short
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24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | |||
We needed to tire ourselves out quickly, that was the plan, and i have never quite figured this one out. Some super long moves. I solved one, with bunched beta, but my short beta for the second move to the blob on the arete is low percentage
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24 | ★ Look Sharp | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 17th Nov 2012 | |||
Desperate if short!
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24 | ★★★ Astroboy | 36m | Geryon & The Acropolis | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Jan 2020 | |||
We carted 2 ropes and 6 #1s up to try and lead this, but ran out of time so just did a TR lap each. The hands are thin, even for me so I think 0.75 may be more like it. Hands quite swollen from 3 days of pack carrying. Kind of repetitive, but a good challenge. Needs a good scrub. It was raining lichen.
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24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 25th May 2022 | |||
A good way to exhaust ourselves before/ as the rain hit with a couple of runs on this. Shame about the ledges.
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24 | ★★ Dreadnought | 54m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 9th Nov 2011 | |||
Laced up with gear, fell once second shot. Something to come back for and lead properly
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24 | ★ Jug City | 13m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | |||
Finger shredding, but worth it for the pockets. One nails move. Worth a new bolt, the old dangerous one is bashed in
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24 | ★ Life | 25m, 1 | The Black Range | ★ Good | Fri 31st May 2019 | |||
The bit about the bolt is quite perplexing. The rest is nice climbing, though lichenous up top.
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24 | ★★ Batten The Hatches | 10m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jul 2020 | |||
This area was a bit warmer. Still stumped by reachy move above second bolt. Only thing I didn’t try was foot cam at same level as hand jam, so maybe try that next time. Takes good cams to supplement bolts, #2,3 and 0.5 above last bolt
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24 | ★★ Barracouta | 30m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | |||
I may be missing something, but getting to the ramp near the top is desperate. It may be reach.... tried 3 ways. The moves after that are ok, and pretty easy to that point. Finally linked a sequence, but it was tough. Try glove right hand next time.
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24 | ★ Third Rising | 15m, 2 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | Average | Sat 28th Dec 2013 | |||
Found a short persons way and trashed fingers
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24 | ★★ Fatal attraction | 25m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★ Good | Sun 9th Jun 2019 | |||
Rock a bit ordinary. May feel better in drier conditions on slab
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24 | ★★★ Squinting albino pastry chef | 25m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Jun 2019 | |||
Great corner to start then exposed moves onto arete. Exit rather tricky.
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24 | ★★ Nose Job Direct Start | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Dec 2020 | |||
I still find this quite hard. The pinches are wide and some long dead points.
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24 | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th May 2006 | |||
spanked. about 3 rests. Found the traverse OK.
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24 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Aug 2022 | |||
Reacquainting myself with this beauty. Forgotten how I did the crux, the rest slowly came back to me.
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E5 6a | ★★★ London Wall | 22m | Millstone Edge | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Jun 2014 | |||
Way painful. The upper 2/3 was good due to footers, the bottom crack before you move left mashed my poor fingers. Meant to be classic, but too painful for me.
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E4 6a E4 6a | ★★ Fingerlicker | 39m | Tremadog Area | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th May 2014 | |||
Tried on Dave's gear, pitch 1. Really cool finger crack, but not feeling so good today.
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24 | ★★ Inquisition in the Rye | 27m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||
I’d give it 24, felt harder than Worrying heights or impulse. Minced fingers and toes. Dave was trying catcher in the rye and did pretty well.
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24 M1 | ★★★ The Vector pitch 2 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Jul 2018 | |||
I could do each third I think if they stood alone and I worked them , but it is so outrageously steep. Would love to see someone onsight this.
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Showing all 67 ascents.