Ascents having Sport CPR

3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!!

Stefano via Insta: "Change 9b+ ✅ The battle is over, unexpectedly soon, a mental and physical fight that took me more than one month and two trips to Flatanger, it ended today with a bloodbath lasted more than one hour of climbing to complete the 185 moves and 55m of Change, the very first 9b+ in the world, bolted and climbed only by Adam Ondra in 2012. I feel relieved, tired and happy, and I enjoyed everything it came with this amazing (and frustrating) journey. Thanks to Sara as always, to all the people who took part in this process, and to all the people who cheered me up today during the endless climb."

Read more on https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/12/adam-ondra-final-countdown-perfecto-mundo/

#FA

FFA

First 9b, such an amazing birthday present!

3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra

Bis ‘14 für vollkommen unmöglich gehalten

Schönste High-End-Linie der Alpen?

One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper. Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!!

2nd ascent after Chris Sharma! Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!! You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge) 2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest 3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore

Adam Ondra reported via Instagram: There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson.

Nothing will perturb a climbing trip ! It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye... Yet we will be here until the end . I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now. I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finaly find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days (picture 2). I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one . About the grade question, I am thinking it can't be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La rage d'Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors. Now on to next projects

via Instagram

#FA

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6VGY80joBm

3rd repeat