Ascents having sport-cpr

#FA #hard

3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!!

#FA

First 9b, such an amazing birthday present!

3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra

Bis ‘14 für vollkommen unmöglich gehalten

Schönste High-End-Linie der Alpen?

One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper. Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!!

2nd ascent after Chris Sharma! Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!! You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge) 2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest 3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore

Adam Ondra reported via Instagram: There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson.

Nothing will perturb a climbing trip ! It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye... Yet we will be here until the end . I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now. I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finaly find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days (picture 2). I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one . About the grade question, I am thinking it can't be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La rage d'Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors. Now on to next projects

via Instagram

#FA

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6VGY80joBm

3rd repeat

FFA