Ascents by Josh Ellis having Sport CPR

Went up to suss how the moves feel on a 29… they felt bloody nails. 😂 Couldn’t do any of the “hard” moves, think 29 is still a ways off for me.

Project shopping continues! Found it much more straight forward than Agelias, cruxes are definitely harder but the moves are cooler. Maybe…

Horrible conditions on the first go but did all the moves pretty quick. Condies improved second shot, did the undercling to sloper move but the top suddenly felt nails. 🤷‍♀️

Bloody sweaty condies but made some progress thanks to some micro beta for the pretzel move from Steph Hart. Tape job saved the left index from the pocket this time. All moves done, be good to give it a red point go when it’s not so sweaty!

Hail Mary. Top is easier in not 30 dev temps, crux is still bloody nails though.

Mega line! Can imagine linking to the top in a couple of goes, can’t imagine ever doing the top on link. Defo whack on a right knee pad next week!

So good, but probably too hard for me this trip to be honest.

Tried to flash the 28 start, didn’t. 😂

Pretty bloody good for a bit if a squeeze job. Couldn’t figure the crux first go but found a sequence that worked after watching a few others. Pre-tape the base of my index finger next time!

Got surprisingly far on the onsight, found it a bit of a grovel though, made me appreciate how good “special forces” is. Probably won’t spend any time on this one.

 

1. Thought this was gonna’ be my first proper red point go. Got to the first “crux” and somehow my previous beta didn’t work anymore. Had to find my third beta through there. 🤷‍♀️ Climbed to the top, lowered to the bottom of the head wall. Climbed the headwall in one link on top rope. Very pumped, felt dubious.

2. Scrappy start, somehow got into the flow on the headwall and just shook my way to the top. Right on the limit for the last few moves. Bloody brilliant!

Mega fun roofiness! Thought I was on for it second shot but punted near the end so had to give it a third to finish it off. Probably more like 26 if your kneebar game is strong! Bit of excitement when Stanislav Likane broke a draw!

Great, pumpy endurance climbing, no real hard moves. Biffed it second shot with silly beta at the top. Third go was a winner.

First 27 in the mountains! 🤟 Tried pretty hard to get it putting the clips in, but fell off after the last bolt, heart breaking! Absolute limit for that last move, I chuck up a high heel/knee scum thing at the end and whichever side of my leg the rope goes it always feels wrong! Mega awesome/scary finale and a true grovel!

Went down easy first go today. Great route.

Absolutely mega! Goes forever, brutally steep, kneebars for days! Felt hard on my first go, but keen to proj!

Didn’t think I’d get another go at this! First go was just kinda sussing/flailing again. Felt hard.

After witnessing a 12 year old onsight it sans kneebars I though I’d better half another crack! Got about half way, fell a few moves below a decent rest. Felt achievable in maybe another 2-3 goes maybe?

 

1. Figured out the moves, nothing individually complicated, just consistently pumpy. Really like it, might be my new proj.

2. Fell coming out the lip, the knee bar is cool but causes a big swing.

3. Tired. Heel to right hand match was better to prevent cutting.

Fuck everything at Cascade is so good! Went up to the first crux in one link. Three distinct cruxes on the head wall, each felt ridiculously hard until I found the way. Was careful to really dial the beta this time so I don’t waste 3 goes changing beta like I did on Vagabond. Will project this next time I’m at Cascade.

Putting the draws in was hard work. Was hoping a couple of weeks at Cèüse would have pumped up my endurance but it felt harder than last time I tried it!

 

1. Bit nervous, felt good but couldn’t slot the crux knee bar, fell off pissed but knowing I could do it.

2. 4 other people working the route sharing the start resulted in a torturous 2 hour wait to get back on. So nervous I felt sick. Fell off at the crux. Felt like it wasn’t possible again.

3. Had already resolved I wouldn’t send. Went up for one more go. Climbed it perfectly, fell off on the very last move. Gutted.

Putting the draws in, after two rest days, felt so much harder than a week ago lol.

Felt harder still second go, never take rest days I guess. 🤷‍♀️

 

1. First crux felt easier today, second one took like 5-6 tries (went first try yesterday) idk. 🤷‍♂️

2. Fell at all three cruxes. Seems to be getting harder.

3. Tired after 2 pitches. ffs.

New low point. Literally gets harder every time I climb it lol. Cleaned it, not this trip.

Blew a foot from a knee bar about 1/3 the way up on the onsight, not that I expected to onsight anyways! Was going pretty good till the tufa fins, then it gets pretty tricky. Thought this would be right up my alley with all the knee bars, but it still feels super sustained. Not sure if this will be my first 7c proj in Kaly. Got a bit lost getting into the big tufa at the bottom second attempt, fought up around 1/3 of the way and punted off. First go trashed me!

Fucking nails!

Cool link up! Boogie is the route that just keeps on giving! Thought it might go second go but the dead point I’m doing is a little bit low percentage. I’ll be back!

Went into the first go so confident I was gonna’ send, lined up perfectly for dead point and then somehow still ended up dangling! 🤷‍♀️ Went to lower tier to climb some over stuff as the block was fairly busy, came back up later for round two. Bit tired but still determined, lined up again and somehow the rope kinda’ got tangled round my knee right at the crux, faffed and fell. Tried the move again and same thing happed! Reminder to self: longer draw on the far left bolt otherwise you get tangled!

Grade 26 climbing + grade 28 rope drag = grade 27 I guess. 😂

Really fun climbing through the roof, but the rope drag was heinous first go, faffed around re-equipping it second then got pumped out faffing with spinning alpines on the third.

Moves came together super quick though, basically just the lip that took some figuring out. The crux is rope drag/equipping faff.

Rope drag reduction beta:

Unclip draws 1 + 2 once you're past them, extend draw 5 (the stealth bolt in mini roof) with a double length dogbone (NOT an alpine cos they suck to clip on an overhang 😂) then same again for the "middle" roof draw (or just skip?) another double length for the last bolt. Do the last move and DON'T clip the chains just touch 'em and whip as the drag/angle on the rope on the lower off is hectic.

Had ambitions to do “Velvet Goldmine” but after a shaky warmup on “Terminal Insomnia” I wasn’t really up for it. Decided to retry the moves on this as Ben had it up. Did all the moves which was nice, but didn’t have a red point burn, was feeling too shaky.

So good! Fell off the same place I assume everyone does both goes, it’s a long way to go to fall off so close to the end!

Best route I’ve tried at Baronia so far! Pumpy with a spicy boulder to finish. Went pretty good second shot but hadn’t really figured out my feet properly for final crux. One to come back for!

Actually really cool. The dyno is wild!

Core pump!

Dog lap to figure moves. Very classy.

Absolutely cruised the crux first go, fell off on jug traverse getting twisted. Gutted. Second go the crux was inexplicably impossible. Third go was defo a bit tired but still did crux and fell off the same bit of jug traverse AGAIN!!!

Figured out a way to do it… after about 25 attempts at the crux. 😂 Too cooked for the send but could go in another sesh or two.

Thought it might go, it did not...

Went pretty good up to sixth bolt, could not work out a sequence that worked for me above that. Faucher Antoine was so close though. Maybe if we perserved we would have figured something, but is was a quick one and done for me.

Gave it a burn as Eli was attempting it. Bloody bouldery start! Was pretty cool but don’t think it’s gonna be my first 7c!

Got 2/3s the way up, realised there weren’t any more draws. 😂 Fumbled the crux clip second shot, should have just skipped both draws and sent it. Wish I tried this at the start of the trip, very achievable for me. 🤷‍♀️

Felt much harder today…

Not this trip…

The very bottom and very top cruxes both felt pretty bloody hard for me! Sussed what could work for both but failed to do the full sequence for either. Can’t believe this used to be 26, felt stiff at 27!

Went up to set up a top rope for beer crate stacking, ended up going to the top! Felt pretty chill when finding the right holds/knee bars.

Fought halfway through the roof on the onny. Worked the rest. Second shot on the dark started super crappy but linked from the third roof draw to past the crux so I think if I tidy up the start it should go…

Perfect afternoon condies, felt cruisy today, just had loads more beans I think! Probably the last outstanding “project” from previous trips.

Bolt to bolt first go, got past the teacup on my second and surprised myself by getting one move from glory on my third! Should go when fresh hopefully 🤞

Pretty janky first go, made it to the same high point as previous though (last proper move). Second shot was going good then I decided to plonk the high heel through the crux on like 3 moves too early and that (obviously) didn’t work. 😂

Pretty much bolt to bolted it 2/3rds of the way, took a few whips and didn’t have the beans to do any more boinking! What a stonkin’ route though! It’s basically like climbing “ravenous” to a kneebar rest, then climbing “ravenous” again, which probably doesn’t bode well for me given how many times I’ve failed on that climb lol.