Ascents by Jakob Schubert having Sport CPR

Such a cool route from Stefano Ghisolfi! Fell from the very top once because the good heel hook broke but luckily found some new (bit harder but not grade changing) beta and send the next go. Took me two 2 day trips to Arco, first one with horrible conditions though. Might come back for the Lonely Mountain which is basically the same route with four different moves and also just as hard in my opinion, let's see. I like to come to Arco so why not

2nd repetition after Will Bosi (FA) and Alex Megos. It took me 4 days of work. Such a cool route, definitely my style, a very bouldery crimpy route! Since it‘s so sharp the skin management was almost the biggest challenge for me. It went down too quick to agree on 9b+ so I think hard 9b could be more appropriate 🤔 Uncut phone footage following soon! Video:

3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!!

3rd ascent after Will and Alex. 3rd try and right after flashing Jungle Speed, such a sick day! Really my style and with Alex‘s new beta I‘d grade this one 9a+ as well especially since I graded La Capella 9a+ and I think they are similarly hard. But who knows, this is my suggestion 😉

Just 2 hours after King Capella, such a sick day! One day I had to give King Capella a break because of my skin, so I briefly checked this one out. Because I loved the style so much I could do it very fast on the same day as King Capella then. Thanks to Alex Megos for sharing his great beta with me. Really didn’t feel like a 9b to me, so gotta go with 9a+ on this one.. Video:

Yes! Probably my hardest flash so far, at least I really struggled and had to fight 😅 8c+/9a, hard to grade after the flash since I definitely didn’t climb it optimally.. Thanks for the beta and support Alfons 🙏

4th ascent, 2nd try. Such an amazing route and a great day with Adam and Babsy 💪🏻

2nd ascent after Will. I now fulfilled the ultimate task to do all the hard routes in this sector in my 9 climbing day of the trip, so psyched 😄 This one was hard for me, had to find new beta since I couldn’t do the move Will did. If you like the style it‘s probably similarly hard as Jungle Speed though 🤔 Check my video of King Capella and la Capella here:

It took me many tries to finally stick the dyno but once I did I could send! Such an amazing line! Definitely harder than Alasha for me but less scary..

1st repetition What a vision of a climb. Thanks for finding and establishing this perfect route Chris Sharma Grading in dws is difficult and weird, I will post more about what I think soon.

2nd ascent after Chris Sharma! Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!! You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge) 2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest 3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore

After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.

I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly.

It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy!

Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it

Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance.

One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say

Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more!

2nd Ascent after Roland Hemetzberger. shares the crux of 'The Void' but climbs a harder start into it. Since you have such an amazing knee bar in the middle it doesn't make it much harder though, in my opinion.

Really struggled with the crux move at the top at first but with good skin it went down first try today. Really hard to grade since it's mostly about this one single move, could be 9a could be easier for someone who loves pockets I don't know. 2nd Ascent after Roli I think..

Could be 8b+, hard to grade after an onsight but felt really soft compared to the other 8c‘s

Checked it out a cuple of weeks ago and send it 2nd go today, somehow felt much stronger even in the sun. Psyched!

Cool connection of St. Anger and Zauberfee basically connecting both hard parts making it 8c+ into 8c+ with a crazy feet first knee bar rest in between. Had some trouble with wet holds but somehow pulled through. Definitely a hard 9a maybe 9a/9a+ is fair not sure.

2nd Go after checking it out once 2 weeks ago. Hard to grade since it‘s just a really long climb with many rests and no crazy crux. Could be 8c+ I think or at least 8c+/9a 🤔

3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido!

3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra

My hardest flash so far! People call it 9a since two things broke in the crux but could very well still be 8c+, hard to tell with just one try on it. Love the bouldery style!

3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s

One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper. Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!!

Wow such an amazing one!! thanks for the beta and showing us this line Heiko!!

What a day! Quickly checked the moves after sending Perfecto Mundo and did it right after before it got dark. Such a cool route!

Sick day! First sending Beginning in Eremo then onsighting this and doing another 8b+/8c first go

2nd Go, might be on the soft side. What a line though!!

I think this was the first ascent after a big hold broke, it‘s an amazing power endurance route and now even more so. Think it is quite a bit harder now, maybe 8c/8c+ before and harder 8c+ now. Loved this climb!!

3rd Go. cool line but had to clean most of the holds again, doesn't seem to get much traffic

2nd Go, 8c+ is more appropriate than 9a in my opinion

a lot of sika but climbs well! soft for 9a+ I think

Alfons grabbed the 2nd ascent and I shortly followed with the 3rd. Awesome line!

Such a good one! 3rd Go.

8c/8c+. 2nd Go, fell high up on my onsight..

crazy fight, not the easiest one to onsight :'D

broke the top hold when I was going to clip the chains, so some would say not an actual ascent.. Would be the 2nd ascent after chris took out the sika holds I think. hard for 9a..

Thanks to misha for the perfect beta! Pretty hard for 8b

'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!!

A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds.

First 9b, such an amazing birthday present!

2nd Go. Messed up the starting boulder which is pretty reachy, 8b+/8c but probably more 8b+

Cool new start into Riflessi del Rosso, definitely the harder brother so 8b+/8c should be appropriate. It was basically a flash but I did Riflessi a couple years ago.

Flash. 8a+/8b

Flash. Such a good one!

2.Ascent

bouldery and hard to onsight haha

Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉