Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
4613
points
| 9b |
★★★ Erebor
![]() Such a cool route from Stefano Ghisolfi! Fell from the very top once because the good heel hook broke but luckily found some new (bit harder but not grade changing) beta and send the next go.
Took me two 2 day trips to Arco, first one with horrible conditions though. Might come back for the Lonely Mountain which is basically the same route with four different moves and also just as hard in my opinion, let's see. I like to come to Arco so why not | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Jan 2022 | |||
4603
points
| 9b 9b+ |
★★ King Capella
![]() 2nd repetition after Will Bosi (FA) and Alex Megos. It took me 4 days of work. Such a cool route, definitely my style, a very bouldery crimpy route! Since it‘s so sharp the skin management was almost the biggest challenge for me. It went down too quick to agree on 9b+ so I think hard 9b could be more appropriate 🤔 Uncut phone footage following soon! Video: | 15m | Siurana | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Dec 2021 | ||
4520
points
| 9b+ |
★★★ Perfecto Mundo
![]() 3rd ascent. Turned into a mental battle after falling four times after the crux. Did it on my 11th climbing day. So psyched!! | 26m, 15 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | ||
4464
points
| 9a+ |
★ La Furia de Jabalí
![]() 3rd ascent after Will and Alex. 3rd try and right after flashing Jungle Speed, such a sick day! Really my style and with Alex‘s new beta I‘d grade this one 9a+ as well especially since I graded La Capella 9a+ and I think they are similarly hard. But who knows, this is my suggestion 😉 | Siurana | ★ Good | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | |||
4463
points
| 9a+ 9b |
★★★ La Capella
![]() Just 2 hours after King Capella, such a sick day! One day I had to give King Capella a break because of my skin, so I briefly checked this one out. Because I loved the style so much I could do it very fast on the same day as King Capella then. Thanks to Alex Megos for sharing his great beta with me. Really didn’t feel like a 9b to me, so gotta go with 9a+ on this one.. Video: | 15m | Siurana | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Dec 2021 | ||
4400
points
| 8c+ 8c+/9a |
★ Jungle Speed
![]() Yes! Probably my hardest flash so far, at least I really struggled and had to fight 😅 8c+/9a, hard to grade after the flash since I definitely didn’t climb it optimally.. Thanks for the beta and support Alfons 🙏 | 15m | Siurana | Average | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||
4350
points
| 9a |
★★★ Sprengstoff
![]() 4th ascent, 2nd try. Such an amazing route and a great day with Adam and Babsy 💪🏻 | 18m | Lorüns | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | ||
4325
points
| 9a |
Last Night
![]() 2nd ascent after Will. I now fulfilled the ultimate task to do all the hard routes in this sector in my 9 climbing day of the trip, so psyched 😄 This one was hard for me, had to find new beta since I couldn’t do the move Will did. If you like the style it‘s probably similarly hard as Jungle Speed though 🤔 Check my video of King Capella and la Capella here: | 15m | Siurana | Average | Wed 15th Dec 2021 | ||
4306
points
| 9a 9a+ |
★★★ Es Pontàs
![]() It took me many tries to finally stick the dyno but once I did I could send! Such an amazing line! Definitely harder than Alasha for me but less scary.. | 20m | Mallorca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | ||
4305
points
| 9a |
★★★ Alasha
![]() 1st repetition What a vision of a climb. Thanks for finding and establishing this perfect route Chris Sharma Grading in dws is difficult and weird, I will post more about what I think soon. | 20m | Mallorca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | ||
4278
points
| 9b |
★★ Neanderthal
![]() 2nd ascent after Chris Sharma! Such a king line! 117 moves through the whole cave. It took a while to find out all the beta and at first I thought it will take forever to be able to send it but I made quite quick progress and was able to send it on my 6th climbing day! First time I stuck the crux dyno (3/4 up the route) I kept my mental game and reached the top. Super psyched!! You can divide the route into 3 parts: 1st part a 45 move 7b+ up to a no hand rest (lying down on a ledge) 2nd part is the hardest part 15 powerful moves to a knee bar rest then 10 hard moves to the crux dyno followed by 12 more powerful moves on underclings to a saving rest 3rd part is a 15 move 8a+ish roof, powerful and the part where you are most nervous but should not fall anymore | 40m | Santa Linya | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Dec 2018 | ||
4269
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Lichtjahre
![]() After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route. I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly. It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy! Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance. One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more! | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||
4208
points
| 9a 9a+ |
★★ Neuron
![]() 2nd Ascent after Roland Hemetzberger. shares the crux of 'The Void' but climbs a harder start into it. Since you have such an amazing knee bar in the middle it doesn't make it much harder though, in my opinion. | Achleiten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | |||
4208
points
| 9a |
★★ The Void
![]() Really struggled with the crux move at the top at first but with good skin it went down first try today. Really hard to grade since it's mostly about this one single move, could be 9a could be easier for someone who loves pockets I don't know. 2nd Ascent after Roli I think.. | 35m | Achleiten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||
4206
points
| 8c |
Cinque Uve
![]() Could be 8b+, hard to grade after an onsight but felt really soft compared to the other 8c‘s | Narango | Wed 14th Oct 2020 | ||||
4197
points
| 9a |
★★ Omen Nomen
![]() Checked it out a cuple of weeks ago and send it 2nd go today, somehow felt much stronger even in the sun. Psyched! | 30m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | ||
4197
points
| 9a 9a/a+ |
★ Beginning
![]() Cool connection of St. Anger and Zauberfee basically connecting both hard parts making it 8c+ into 8c+ with a crazy feet first knee bar rest in between. Had some trouble with wet holds but somehow pulled through. Definitely a hard 9a maybe 9a/9a+ is fair not sure. | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Fri 16th Oct 2020 | |||
4195
points
| 9a |
Thunder Ribes
![]() 2nd Go after checking it out once 2 weeks ago. Hard to grade since it‘s just a really long climb with many rests and no crazy crux. Could be 8c+ I think or at least 8c+/9a 🤔 | Valle del Sarca | Average | Mon 12th Oct 2020 | |||
4195
points
| 9a |
★★ Fugu
![]() 3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido! | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Oct 2020 | ||
4192
points
| 9a |
★ Bio-logiko
![]() | Narango | ★ Good | Thu 1st Oct 2020 | |||
4171
points
| 9b |
★★★ Stoking the Fire
![]() 3rd ascent after Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra | Santa Linya | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Jan 2018 | |||
4170
points
| 8c+ 8c+/9a |
★ Victimes Del Futur
![]() My hardest flash so far! People call it 9a since two things broke in the crux but could very well still be 8c+, hard to tell with just one try on it. Love the bouldery style! | 25m, 10 | Margalef | ★ Good | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | ||
4146
points
| 9a |
★★★ Walk the Line
![]() | 22m | Monkey Island | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st May 2020 | ||
4145
points
| 9a |
★★★ Weiße Rose
![]() 3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||
4130
points
| 9a+ 9b |
★★★ El Bon Combat
![]() One of the best routes I‘ve done, such unique rock features! It has it all: big moves, technical moves and a perfect finish slap to a sloper. Fantastic FA by Chris in 2015, he always finds the lines, respect!! | 25m | La Cova de l'Ocell | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Dec 2018 | ||
4124
points
| 8c |
★★★ Goldrausch
![]() Wow such an amazing one!! thanks for the beta and showing us this line Heiko!! | Secret Crag | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th Oct 2020 | |||
4094
points
| 9a 9a/a+ |
★★★ Gancho Perfecto
![]() What a day! Quickly checked the moves after sending Perfecto Mundo and did it right after before it got dark. Such a cool route! | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | |||
4074
points
| 8b+ 8c |
★★★ Terra Piatta
![]() Sick day! First sending Beginning in Eremo then onsighting this and doing another 8b+/8c first go | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Oct 2020 | |||
4060
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Tunnelblick
![]() 2nd Go, might be on the soft side. What a line though!! | 30m | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | ||
4060
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Mantra
![]() I think this was the first ascent after a big hold broke, it‘s an amazing power endurance route and now even more so. Think it is quite a bit harder now, maybe 8c/8c+ before and harder 8c+ now. Loved this climb!! | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | |||
4054
points
| 8c+ |
★★ Il Frutto del Diavolo
![]() 3rd Go. cool line but had to clean most of the holds again, doesn't seem to get much traffic | 30m | Bus de Vela | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | ||
4052
points
| 8c+ |
★ Zauberfee
![]() | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Oct 2020 | ||
4048
points
| 8c+ 9a |
★ Pure Dreaming
![]() 2nd Go, 8c+ is more appropriate than 9a in my opinion | 30m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Tue 29th Sep 2020 | ||
4032
points
| 9a+ |
★ Catxasa
![]() a lot of sika but climbs well! soft for 9a+ I think | Santa Linya | ★ Good | Tue 9th Jan 2018 | |||
4008
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Road to the Source
![]() Alfons grabbed the 2nd ascent and I shortly followed with the 3rd. Awesome line! | Zillergrund | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st May 2020 | |||
4007
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Gambit
![]() Such a good one! 3rd Go. | 35m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||
4002
points
| 9a |
★★ La Novena Enmienda
![]() | 50m | Santa Linya | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | ||
3949
points
| 9b |
La Planta de Shiva
![]() | 45m | Villanueva del Rosario | Jan 2016 | |||
3920
points
| 9a+ |
★★★ Pachamama
![]() | 50m | Oliana | Jan 2017 | |||
3910
points
| 9a+ |
Joe Mama
![]() | Oliana | Dec 2016 | ||||
3906
points
| 8c 8c+ |
★ Natural Present
![]() 8c/8c+. 2nd Go, fell high up on my onsight.. | Narango | ★ Good | Wed 14th Oct 2020 | |||
3906
points
| 8c |
Mr. Teroldego
![]() | Narango | Wed 14th Oct 2020 | ||||
3906
points
| 8b |
★★★ Sprungbrettl
![]() crazy fight, not the easiest one to onsight :'D | 15m | Zillergrund | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st May 2020 | ||
3893
points
| 9a |
Mercenaris del Passat
![]() broke the top hold when I was going to clip the chains, so some would say not an actual ascent.. Would be the 2nd ascent after chris took out the sika holds I think. hard for 9a.. | 35m | Santa Linya | Fri 12th Jan 2018 | |||
3877
points
| 8b |
★★ Rocketman
![]() Thanks to misha for the perfect beta! Pretty hard for 8b | 20m | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 6th Nov 2020 | ||
3855
points
| 8c |
★★★ Mercy Street
![]() 'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!! | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||
3846
points
| 9a+ |
Kangaroo's Limb
![]() | Flatanger | May 2016 | ||||
3840
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Synergieeffekt
![]() A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds. | Scheabichl | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Nov 2018 | |||
3839
points
| 9b |
★★★ Fight or Flight
![]() First 9b, such an amazing birthday present! | 35m | Oliana | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Dec 2014 | ||
3834
points
| 8c+ |
★ Juturna
![]() | 25m | Nassereith | ★ Good | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | ||
3825
points
| 8a+ |
★★ Fine di un'Epoca
![]() | 32m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | ||
3819
points
| 8a+ |
★★★ La Principessa di Cioccolato
![]() | 27m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Wed 30th Sep 2020 | ||
3791
points
| 9a+ |
Companion of Change
![]() | 25m | Ginzling | Nov 2015 | |||
3776
points
| 8b+ 8c |
★★ Scoglio de Capri
![]() 2nd Go. Messed up the starting boulder which is pretty reachy, 8b+/8c but probably more 8b+ | 30m | Bus de Vela | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Oct 2020 | ||
3774
points
| 8b+ |
★★★ Zero Tolleranza
![]() Cool new start into Riflessi del Rosso, definitely the harder brother so 8b+/8c should be appropriate. It was basically a flash but I did Riflessi a couple years ago. | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Oct 2020 | |||
3764
points
| 8c+ |
Tres Satélites
![]() | Jaén | Mar 2016 | ||||
3759
points
| 8b |
★★ Phlem Loskot and one smoking Mono
![]() Flash. 8a+/8b | Mallorca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
3759
points
| 8b |
★★★ If You Keep Your Face In The Sunshine, You Will Not See The Shadow
![]() Flash. Such a good one! | Mallorca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
3752
points
| 9a |
Kraftplatzl
![]() 2.Ascent | Berglsteiner See | Oct 2016 | ||||
3749
points
| 8c+ |
★ Santa Linya Extension
![]() | Santa Linya | ★ Good | Thu 11th Jan 2018 | |||
3721
points
| 8c+ |
★ Juturna
![]() | 25m | Nassereith | ★ Good | Tue 10th Oct 2017 | ||
3719
points
| 9a+ 9a/a+ |
★★★ Thor's Hammer
![]() | Flatanger | Aug 2015 | ||||
3716
points
| 8c |
★★ Nordic Flower
![]() | Flatanger | May 2016 | ||||
3712
points
| 8c 8c+ |
★★ La Ultima Ola
![]() | 20m | Santa Linya | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Jan 2019 | ||
3702
points
| 8a |
★★ Er Bus
![]() bouldery and hard to onsight haha | 25m | Bus de Vela | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | ||
3701
points
| 8a |
★★★ Viaggi Stellari...nel Porno
![]() | 28m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | ||
3700
points
| 8a |
The Walking Death
![]() | Narango | Wed 14th Oct 2020 | ||||
3679
points
| 8c |
★★★ Sex after Climb
![]() | Jaén | Jan 2016 | ||||
3656
points
| 8b |
★★★ Ehrentotzen
![]() | 25m | Achleiten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2020 | ||
3656
points
| 8b 8c+ |
★★ Orca
![]() Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉 | 25m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||
3633
points
| 8c+ 9a |
★★ Joe Cita
![]() | Oliana | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Dec 2016 | |||
3633
points
| 8a+ 8b |
★★★ Hupolup Kempf
![]() Flash. One of the best in Mallorca!! | Mallorca | Tue 12th Oct 2021 | ||||
3632
points
| 8a+ |
★★ Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels
![]() 1st go, did the left (harder) exit first. Such a fun jump! | Mallorca | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | ||||
3631
points
| 8a+ |
The Weather Man
![]() Flash | Mallorca | Mon 4th Oct 2021 | ||||
3612
points
| 8b |
★★★ June Afternoon
![]() 2nd Ascent. In memory of my friend Hansjörg Auer | Nösslach | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Jun 2020 | |||
3608
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Ganesha
![]() | Elefantenwand | Oct 2016 | ||||
3608
points
| 8c+ 9a |
Kein Licht, kein Schatten
![]() | 15m | Elefantenwand | Oct 2016 | |||
3595
points
| 9a 8c+ to 9a |
Grantiger Bauer
![]() | Saustein | Oct 2015 | ||||
3576
points
| 8c |
★★★ Passport 2 Honesty
![]() | 20m | Niederthai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Oct 2017 | ||
3544
points
| 8c+ 8c+/9a |
Fuck the Police
![]() | Jaén | Mar 2016 | ||||
3532
points
| 8a+ |
★★★ Baumkrone
![]() | Scheabichl | Sat 10th Nov 2018 | ||||
3531
points
| 8a+ |
★★ Leninakan
![]() | 25m | Achleiten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Nov 2020 | ||
3507
points
| 8c+ |
Cavemen's Playgound
![]() 2.Try | 20m | Istarske Toplice | Nov 2015 | |||
3480
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Muy Verdes
![]() | Flatanger | Aug 2015 | ||||
3480
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Odin's Eye
![]() | Flatanger | Aug 2015 | ||||
3443
points
| 8b+ |
★★ Linke Generation
![]() | 17m | Monkey Island | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Oct 2017 | ||
3439
points
| 8a+ |
★★ Irak Attack
![]() flash/onsight | 18m | Santa Linya | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jan 2018 | ||
3437
points
| 7c |
★★★ L'uomo Inutile
![]() | 27m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Sep 2020 | ||
3382
points
| 7c+ 8a |
★★ In the Night, Every Cat is Black
![]() On sight | Mallorca | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | ||||
3361
points
| 8c 8c+ |
All in, I'm out
![]() | 15m | Kompanj | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | |||
3340
points
| 9a 9a/a+ |
★★ Open Your Mind Direct (Direct open your mind)
![]() back home after tomorrow.. was an amazing spain trip again, back to training mode now... | 40m | Santa Linya | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Jan 2013 | ||
3340
points
| 9a |
★★★ Fuck the System
![]() 3rd Go this trip. two 9a's in a day, great start of the year!! | 30m | Santa Linya | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jan 2013 | ||
3338
points
| 9a |
★★★ Selecció Natural Left Extension
![]() FA of the new little extention which gives this nice line the obvious end. Solid 9a like this I think.. | Santa Linya | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Dec 2012 | |||
3337
points
| 9a |
★★ Ciudad de Dios
![]() 2nd day in Spain, feels great to be here! Merry Christmas!! | 25m | Santa Linya | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Dec 2012 | ||
3294
points
| 9a+ |
★★★ Papichulo
![]() YEAAH! huge relief, 50m... mentally very hard! tried in december for 3 days, 2 days this year. 11 tries in total! in my last try, before leavin oliana! | 45m | Oliana | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Apr 2011 | ||
3293
points
| 9a 8c+ to 9a |
★★★ Analogica Natural
![]() 3rd Go, but I knew the 2nd part already..(Seleccio Natural). Again with the new little extension, SA after Magnus of this version of the route,easy 9a like that we think... future will tell though.. | 40m | Santa Linya | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Jan 2013 | ||
3268
points
| 7c+ |
★★ Davora Hombres
![]() | Santa Linya | Thu 4th Jan 2018 | ||||
3257
points
| 7c |
★★ Vadage
![]() Flash | Mallorca | Mon 4th Oct 2021 | ||||
3257
points
| 8c+ |
★★★ Mister Hyde
![]() 3rd Go. amazing route! | 30m | Céüse | ★★★ Classic | Tue 23rd Jul 2013 | ||
3217
points
| 9a |
★★★ Martin Krpan
![]() Very soft for it's grade. 4th try this day, but tried it 2 years ago... nice after after party in misja pec! | 28m, 13 | Mišja Peč | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Nov 2011 |