Ascents having trad-cpr

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
21 22 Red Heat

Decided to rapp down after pitch 4 as we didn't want to do the last pitch in dark. Also learnt that unfrequented long trad lines wondering on sometimes seemingly blank limestone walls can be very time consuming to navigate and be mentally challenging.. This route gave me a moment of pondering to myself about why the hell im out here.. But afterwards cherishing the moments and craving to do it all again. Led pitches 2 and 4 which were both great! Mostly found lots of good pro on my pitches and I sure made use of all of it. Sadly we probably didn't do the best part, The top 2 pitches, and are keen to return for that.

- with Peter
1 20 45
2 21 45
3 21 25
4 20 50
Mixed trad 170m, 1 Bungonia Gorge
Sun 6th Oct 2019
5.13d City Park
1 5.13d 35m
2 5.10b 20m
Trad 55m Index Town Walls Classic
Ashlee Hendy
Sat 22nd Jun 2019
27 28 Passport to Insanity

Best line in australia? If only! Beautiful position but unfortunately the roof pitch is marred with face holds. Great day out with the gang nonetheless. 2 hr walk in on easy to navigate track. Got baked off early. May return, may not. The search continues...

- with Torstein Øygarden
1 27 135m
Trad 140m Grampians Very Good
Christopher Glastonbury
Wed 4th Apr 2018
5.12a 5.12+ Shangri-La
1 5.12a 50 ft
2 5.11d 60 ft
Trad 34m Sedona Mega Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Fri 12th Apr 2019
27 The Sorcerer (The Sorcerer P3)

you win some, you lose some. today was a win. all those stuart days were good for something!

3 27 65m
Mixed trad 65m, 9 Fortescue Bay Mega Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Wed 30th Jan 2019
26 Siblings Of The Sun

Another epic day out on the South Wall. We got worked, both tired by the time we reached the headwall pitches. Keen to rap into them for another go. Found the lower pitches were more sustained at the grade than others I've done on this wall.

P1 - Jam and layback corner, sustained once it kicks back, loose in places, bring the gear. P2 - interesting balancey traversing, exciting at times for both the leader and seconder. P3 - hard slabbing, found it both mentally and physically draining. P4 - sustained slab again with a tricky crux. P5 - exposed stemming on gear then somehow pumps you on the slab, run out to the top on crap rock. P6 - hard, awesome orange rock and flowy climbing, lots of gear to stop and place, sat all over it. Crux moves on bolts heading into the traverse. P7 - Punchy and fun, need to power through it. P8 - a little funky but cruisy.

- with Ryan Macpherson
1 22 35m
2 21 40m
3 23 45m
4 22 35m
5 21 30m
6 24 35m
7 26 15m
8 18 20m
Mixed trad 260m, 61 Bungonia Gorge Mega Classic
David Cook
Sun 16th Aug 2020
25 Samarkand

The best multi I have ever done and one that keeps with my trend of achieving climbing 'firsts' in intimidating locations. I onsighted the first pitch which was rather gripping but probably quite easy at the grade, giving me my first Trad 23 and then, after belaying Paul's ultra solid send, almost almost scraped the crux pitch clean on second. I slipped off essentially the last move of the crux right at the end of the pitch despite feeling quite solid. After one false start I pulled on and mantled up to the belay. This pitch is all time!! featuring unlikely steep climbing at about grade 22 all the way until the intimidating and awesome final crux sequence; The best!! I then led and onsighted the third pitch (having told Paul I wanted to lead the layback that Ben Cossey is climbing in the TNF ad in the guidebook), a significantly harder 23 than the first pitch but ultra rad and super demanding for the section of real climbing before it turns into a ramble to the belay. At this point my head was pretty gone and I was feeling exhausted so Paul said he was happy to lead the last two pitches, an offer I gratefully accepted and I managed both of these clean on second with a major fight to keep it together on the final pitch as my lack of day-endurance took its toll and I found myself pumped stupid.

All up it is probably one of the best days of climbing to be had in the Bluies and I would highly recommend it to anyone who can muster the psych!!! Get on it!

- with Paul Thomson
1 23 lead by Will Vidler
2 25 lead by Paul Thomson
3 23 lead by Will Vidler
4 22 lead by Paul Thomson
5 22 lead by Paul Thomson
Trad 150m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Will Vidler
Sat 24th Feb 2018
25 The Free Route

Onsighted first pitch (DP) but just missed out on the sent on the second pitch. Honestly, don't really mind that much though as it was an amazing experience either way!

Thanks so much Wynnie for making this happen, for letting me lead both pitches and for keeping a cheery mood despite getting soaked up to the shoulders on the first belay (with low tide and small swell).

- with Wynnie
1 24 lead by Andreas Aachen
2 25 lead by Andreas Aachen
Mixed trad 65m, 8 Fortescue Bay Mega Classic
Andreas Aachen
Wed 14th Mar 2018
25 Jump Master

Great intro to Bungonia (although we did only the top 3 pitches) due to time and sun constraints. Great climbing; although the crux pitch was a tad soft for 25.

- with Mark Rewi
4 22 55 lead by Goshen Watts
5 23 25 lead by Mark Rewi
6 25 25 lead by Goshen Watts
Mixed trad 110m, 60 Bungonia Gorge Very Good
Goshen Watts
Fri 30th Mar 2018
25 Jump Master

So good! Found pitch 1 hard.. maybe cold? Pitch 2 okay, Pitch 3 awesome, Pitch 4 glad it wasn't my lead, Pitch 5 Amazing, really want to go back for this one!, Pitch 6 Found this hard for 25?

- with Mike De Marco
1 19 220m lead by Tom Collins
2 21 lead by Mike De Marco
3 22 lead by Tom Collins
4 22 lead by Mike De Marco
5 23
6 25
Mixed trad 220m, 60 Bungonia Gorge Mega Classic
Tom Collins
Wed 8th Aug 2018
25 The Free Route (The Free Route P2)

iconic! get down here. do it. pray the thing doesnt topple when your fat ass drops onto the tyrolean.

2 25 65m
Mixed trad 65m, 8 Fortescue Bay Mega Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Wed 30th Jan 2019
5.12a 5.12b The Daily Planet (The Daily Planet P1)

horrendous approach., but p1 was good!

1 5.12a
Trad Squamish Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Sun 21st Jul 2019
25 Trojan (Trojan P1)
1 25 86m
Mixed trad 86m, 2 Arapiles
Jon Leighton
Sun 27th Oct 2019
25 Samarkand

So close to the onsight!!!! Tried to straight-in jam the .75 crux rather than doing 3 layback moves to the fingerlock 🤷‍♂️ Oh well. Should go with the right beta next time.

Anyway. Great climb. Not too hard for the grade. Excellent locations.

Listed gear beta is spot on. Definitely don't need the #4 though.

- with Eugene Mak
1 25 150m
Trad 150m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Alex Riegelman
Mon 16th Nov 2020
25 Samarkand

The start of the 25 pitch was so difficult for me. I eventually figured out a way after sitting on the bolt, back and fourth. I was so exhausted after all this I ended up sitting on gear and pulling on gear several more times throughout the rest of the pitch.

Happy I was able to climb all the other pitches clean.

- with Ben Taylor
1 23 150m lead by Ben Taylor
2 25 lead by james ritchie
3 23 lead by Ben Taylor
4 22 lead by james ritchie
5 22 lead by Ben Taylor
Trad 150m Blue Mountains Classic
james ritchie
Sat 21st Nov 2020
5 6b 7a+ Gracias Por El Aguante
1 5 60m
2 4+ 60m
3 6a 60m
4 4+ 60m
5 6a 25m
6 6b 45m
7 6b 40m
Trad 350m Los Arenales
Ezequiel Musso
Sat 29th Oct 2016
24 The Squealing

Quite an adventurous climb, worth a crack., starts up vegetated corner (cams) before first carrot, and a dusty rail traverse over to the arete. Some great arete moves on this long pitch! One of which I could not do , off the midway ledge. Some interesting route finding, off the ledges two times I traversed in from the far left. Mostly carrots but bring a single rack of cams to 3 and nuts.

1 20 87m lead by Alastair McDowell
2 24 lead by Alastair McDowell
3 24 lead by Alastair McDowell
Mixed trad 87m, 15 Blue Mountains Very Good
Alastair McDowell
Sat 14th Jul 2018
24 A0 Evolution - with Mike De Marco
1 15 265m
2 22
3 21
4 23
5 22
6 24
7 19
Mixed trad 270m, 55 Bungonia Gorge
Gee Rad
Fri 10th Aug 2018
24 Evolution

Epic climbing and position!! Fantastic day out for my first at Bungonia and such a welcome change to climb on the crazy limestone features and pockets. Great temps with a breeze and plenty of try hard to keep the pump away.

The first three pitches were OK, a bit committing on P3 after the ramp but not too bad. P4-7 were awesome, tricky to read, pumpy, well protected. Finished up the other end of evolution (23) as the exit for plenty of exposure. Misread one part on P4 and had a fall, P5 was maybe my fav with nice sustained climbing at 22, then got through P6 by the skin of my teeth on second with jelly arms. We were both pretty powered/pumped out to get through the last pitch without a couple of rests.

Climbing with a tag line was great to haul food/water/jackets etc up so neither had to climb with a bag- much more enjoyable and not too much faff.

Psyched to come back!

- with Johnny
1 15
2 22
3 21
4 23
5 22
6 24
Mixed trad 220m, 55 Bungonia Gorge Mega Classic
David Cook
Mon 2nd Sep 2019
24 Right in the Bunghole

Great addition to the George, made more memorable by the goats raining potato sized rocks on us.

- with Paul Thomson
1 24 130m
Mixed trad 130m, 13 Bungonia Gorge Very Good
Tom Collins
Sat 28th Sep 2019
24 Evolution

3 pitches of pure bliss. P4 is cool sustained climbing in pockets. P5 as per description ripsnorter and P5 is money in gold coins on brilliant orange solid rock offering a dance your way up but with unavoidable pumpfest. I was craving badly to onsight this pitch but my arms fried and refused my idea. Pieceful quite location with occasional sing of birds and echo of your belayer compliment nicely with superb climbing.

- with James
1 15 15m lead by James
2 22 30m lead by Martin Cankov
3 21 35m lead by James
4 23 25m lead by Martin Cankov
5 22 30m lead by James
6 24 25m lead by Martin Cankov
7 23 55m
Mixed trad 220m, 55 Bungonia Gorge Mega Classic
Martin Cankov
Sat 5th Sep 2020
24 Dreadnought (Dreadnought P2)

p1 gets 0 stars, p2 gets two.

2 24 54m
Trad 54m Arapiles Good
Christopher Glastonbury
Sat 3rd Oct 2020
5.11d The White Feather

p1 was good, p2 was junk, p3 hard, but what we all come for is p4. this is stellar. just sucks that one has to climb so much junk to get to the good stuff

1 5.11b 200m
2 5.10c
3 5.11d
4 5.11d
Trad 200m Squamish Mega Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Sun 4th Aug 2019
23 Wake of the Flood

Awesome climbing with some varied styles. Loved the V-Chimney, but unfortunately broke some of my gear loops on one side of my harness squeezing up it. But put everything on a sling and managed to get the onsight for the 21! Some strenuous thin hand jamming. Would be nice to come back to the 23 one day.

- with Louis
1 20 50m
2 21
3 23
Trad 50m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Sat 7th Apr 2018
23 23 R Iron Lady

What to say about this Epic Journey Within Oneself...

The climbing and position are spectacular, the rock is mostly good (though uncleaned and untrafficked, with some delicate climbing necessary), but difficult route-finding, and the very run-out nature of the route (there are some potentially serious consequences to falling in a few tricky sections) makes it a line not to tackle lightly. I am glad to have had this experience, but I won't ever do it again

After head-pointing Alive in a Bitter Sea 2 years ago, I was really keen to do this in a better style (tempered by it being an "easier grade") and Will Vidler was of the same mind. So we opted to go ground-up Onsight style for the True Epic™ . Suffice to say, it encompassed many heart-stopping moments, a degree of mid-pitch procrastination (when facing big runouts, challenging moves, and dubious vertical navigation). I was pretty scared, and I believe that this is rather dangerous.

Almost a perfect ascent, only having to red-point the boulder problem on P4 after my whip (which I still found utterly nails, even on the red-point). Clean 2nd P1 (the hideous disintegrating shale-ledge traverse), Onsight P2 (with its deathy start and marathon questing motif), and Onsight P3 (with its runout traverse into the sunset).

PS: I owe you a new #0.2 X4 cam, Will Vidler

- with Will Vidler
1 10 20m lead by Will Vidler
2 23 40m lead by Paul Thomson
3 23 30m lead by Paul Thomson
4 23 25m lead by Paul Thomson
Trad 120m Blue Mountains Very Good
Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Feb 2019
8 Mescalito
1 6+ 25m
2 7- 30m
3 8 25m
4 6+ 25m
5 4 20m
6 7 30m
7 7+ 30m
8 6+ 20m
9 4+ 15m
10 6- 45m
Trad 270m Valle del Sarca Very Good
Sat 20th Apr 2019
23 Infant Terror
1 23 23
2 23 22
Mixed trad 45m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Lawrence Curran
Wed 24th Jul 2019
23 Infant Terror
1 23 23
2 23 22
Mixed trad 45m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Lawrence Curran
Wed 24th Jul 2019
23 Wake of the Flood

Beautiful day out in the mountains! Random trip to this area and hopped on this first thing. Had a lot of fun in the Bombay chimney and squeeze slot. The crack was very crystaly and tore my hands up a bit. Linked 1&2. Fell 2x seconding the top pitch but is very doable if I think through the sequence more. I think the route is a bit soft though coming from Yosemite grading.

- with Owen Cameron
1 20 20m lead by Mary Grace Stocker
2 21 20m lead by Mary Grace Stocker
3 23 10m lead by Owen Cameron
Trad 50m Blue Mountains Classic
Mary Grace Stocker
Tue 1st Oct 2019
23 The Man with the Golden Gun - with Carter
1 23 120m
Mixed trad 120m, 30 Mt Cooroora Very Good
Josiah Hess
Sat 22nd Feb 2020
23 The Great Outdoors

Pitch one is and exciting traverse. Pitch two is definitely the money. A worthwhile adventure route. Climb out option is available after the placement of a few additional bolts. Above final anchors to ledge, left through cave and up. Rock quality is terrible but may be more enjoyable than the ‘rap-reverse-jug’ option. Probably depends how much choss you can handle

- with Paul Thomson
1 22 70m lead by Josh Mackenzie
2 23 lead by Paul Thomson
Trad 70m Blue Mountains Classic
Josh Mackenzie
Sat 18th Jul 2020
1 7 45m lead by Dinos
2 5+ 35 lead by Tonia Machaira
3 7- 15 lead by Dinos
4 7- 25 lead by Tonia Machaira
5 7+ 40m lead by Dinos
Mixed trad 160m, 50 Varasova
Tonia Machaira
Sun 20th Sep 2020
23 Gondwana

Be sure to move the few m left after the horizontal band on the first pitch or you'll get sucked into a spicy run out of a finish...

- with Elinor Fleming
1 20 45m lead by Mike Oldroyd
2 23 45m lead by Elinor Fleming
Trad 90m Peak Head Classic
Mike Oldroyd
Sat 31st Oct 2020
5.11c Astroboy
1 5.10a
2 5.10b
3 5.11c
Trad Yosemite National Park Mega Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Tue 4th Jun 2019
5.11c Japanese Gardens (Japanese Gardens P1)
1 5.11c
Trad Index Town Walls Mega Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Sat 22nd Jun 2019
6c+ Alte Flamme, neuer Docht
1 6a+ 45m
2 6b+ 25m
3 6c+ 20m
4 6b+ 20m
5 6b 20m
Trad 130m Paré da Miezgi Hauptwand Very Good
Thu 11th Oct 2018
6c+ Südwand

What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!

- with Tobias Bahmer
1 6a lead by Max Kaltenbrunner
2 6c+ lead by Tobias Bahmer
3 6c lead by Max Kaltenbrunner
4 5b lead by Tobias Bahmer
5 5c+ lead by Max Kaltenbrunner
6 4c lead by Tobias Bahmer
Trad Bockmattli
Max Kaltenbrunner
Mon 24th Aug 2020
22 Romancing the Stone

Mega, amazing continuous face climbing on great rock and in a superb position. Needs the carrots at the top and the 2nd belay replaced

- with Jack Thomas
1 18 10m lead by Jack Thomas
2 22 45m lead by Matt Brooks
Mixed trad 55m, 12 Mt Stuart Mega Classic
Matt Brooks
Sun 8th Apr 2018
22 The Second Coming (The Second Coming P1)

p1 only. so good!

1 22 47m
Trad 47m Arapiles Very Good
Christopher Glastonbury
Sun 11th Nov 2018
22 The Navigator (The Navigator Linkup Digital Technique)

Great route!

- with Tim
1 22 115m linkup Digital Technique
3 20
Trad 120m Grampians Classic
Gee Rad
Wed 27th Mar 2019
22 Strangeness and Charm

Wow.. What a route.. What a place! Took a bit of adjusting as I have little experience in limestone.. then throw in some runnouts and fiddling with gear and you have an epic day out for sure!! Every pitch had excelent climbing! Thought provoking limestone adventure.. P3 crux, as mentioned, sure was stout and the crux of the multi.

- with Peter
1 18 160m lead by Peter
2 18
3 22
4 22
5 19
Mixed trad 160m, 20 Bungonia Gorge
Sat 31st Aug 2019
23 22 Centrefold

got a little of track . did third pitch as "Excursion" ended up a little harder than expected. slowed us down wanted to get out earlier so left the last pitch. Also last pitch didn't seem worth it. The Previous two before the last pitch were average at best. not a two start climb.

- with Natalie Tan
1 20 20 lead by Oliver McDonald
2 22 40 lead by Oliver McDonald
3 23 46 linkup Excursion , lead by Oliver McDonald
4 16 15 lead by Natalie Tan
5 17 30 lead by Oliver McDonald
Trad 150m South Branch Wye Creek Good
Oliver McDonald
Wed 25th Mar 2020
22 Stop the Bolts!

Sick route! Although a little scary at times, there's really good gear so don't be put off.

1 21 15m
2 22 25m
3 21 15m
4 20 25m
5 22 8m
Mixed trad 88m, 2 Scarface Buttress Very Good
Hunter Cole
Wed 20th May 2020
22 Stop the Bolts!

Fun and adventurous

- with Hunter Cole
1 21 15m
2 22 25m
3 21 15m
4 20 25m
5 22 8m
Mixed trad 88m, 2 Scarface Buttress
steve willson
Sun 28th Jun 2020
18 22 Strangeness and Charm

Only did p1&2, absolutely brilliant climbing, probably my funnest trad lead so far, with really cool creative placements. Will definitely come back to take this to the top if I ever decide maybe suffering the walkout once wasn’t enough.

1 18 45m
2 18 20m
Mixed trad 65m, 20 Bungonia Gorge Mega Classic
Zac Schofield
Wed 16th Sep 2020
22 Strangeness and Charm - with Joshua Norris
3 22 lead by Joshua Norris
4 22 lead by Alessandro Zen
Mixed trad 160m, 20 Bungonia Gorge Classic
Alessandro Zen
Fri 18th Sep 2020
6c Hoi Du - with Martin
1 6c 30m
2 4a 20m
3 6a 30m
4 6a+ 25m
5 5c+ 40m
6 6a 35m
Mixed trad 180m, 9 Alpstein Good
Sun 6th May 2018
6b 6b 6c Il lato oscuro
1 5b 20 lead by Lukas Hnc
2 6b 30
3 5c 30 lead by Lukas Hnc
Trad 80m Sergent Very Good
Lukas Hnc
Sun 2nd Jun 2019
6c Hasta la vista

First pitch is stiff, 4th pitch is nice, last 6c is stiff and hard route finding, I went left into 6a. It was 30 degrees so smearing was problematic 😉

- with niels van veen
1 6b 180m
2 5b
3 5c
4 6c
5 6c
Mixed trad 180m, 1 Lütschinentäler Average
Thu 20th Aug 2020
6c Estamporanée - with Christophe
1 5a 200m
2 6a+
3 6c
4 6b
5 6b
6 6a+
7 4c
Trad 200m Les Gorges du Verdon Classic
Olivier L
Fri 9th Oct 2020
5.11- Marie 4 poches (Marie 4 poches P1)
1 5.11-
Trad Weir Very Good
Sun 21st Oct 2018
5.11a The Grand Wall

300 mt

- with James
1 5.7 lead by James
2 5.9 lead by Alessandro Zen
3 5.10b lead by James
4 5.10b lead by Alessandro Zen
5 5.11a lead by James
6 5.11a lead by Alessandro Zen
7 5.10a lead by James
8 5.10c lead by Alessandro Zen
Trad 300m Squamish Mega Classic
Alessandro Zen
Thu 4th Jul 2019
5.11a The Grand Wall - with aubrey
1 5.11a 1000 ft
Trad 300m Squamish Classic
Christopher Glastonbury
Mon 8th Jul 2019
5.11a The Grand Wall

Apron Strings into Grandwall, into bellygood ledge. Took 3 falls on Perry's lieback and a rest on the last hard pitch.

1 5.8 1000 ft lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
2 5.9 lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
3 5.10b
4 5.10b lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
5 5.11a
6 5.11a lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
7 5.10b
8 5.10c lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
9 5.6 lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
Trad 300m Squamish Mega Classic
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Wed 22nd Jul 2020
21 The Colours of Spring

A high quality adventure! First pitch has excellent sections split by choss which i had a bunch of fun on! Second pitch is a funky corner filled with death choss with a cool finger crack to start. The weird placement of the end of the second pitch baffled us for quite a while so we kind of ended up doing it in 5 pitches? Getting off the top of the pinnacle is the real adventure though, with some chossy scrambling and horizontal slot shuffling it made for an awesome day!

- with Will Vidler
1 19 30m lead by Harry Kadi
2 19 45m lead by Will Vidler
3 21 25m lead by Harry Kadi
4 12 10m lead by Will Vidler
Trad 110m Blue Mountains Very Good
Harry Kadi
Sat 7th Apr 2018
21 Highway to the Dangerzone

Both pitches climb better than they look, though the rock is not great and the route hasnt really been cleaned. P2 certainly is steep at times, though unerringly juggy. Some traddy thugging.

- with Monty Curtis
1 15 20m lead by Monty Curtis
2 21 20m lead by Paul Thomson
Trad 40m Blue Mountains Good
Paul Thomson
Sat 29th Dec 2018
21 Aquilla
1 19 80m
2 21
3 19
Trad 80m Ben Lomond
David Tan
Sun 6th Jan 2019
21 Fringe-dweller

Good climbing in a great position

- with karl ostberg
1 21 130m lead by karl ostberg
2 19 lead by Martin Jackson
3 18 lead by karl ostberg
4 20 lead by Martin Jackson
Trad 130m Grampians Very Good
Martin Jackson
Sun 10th Feb 2019
18 21 Taipan

P1 led then second through the crux pitch, crux had super glassy feet with quite a reach for holds

- with steve
1 18 60m lead by Kris Penn
2 lead by steve
Trad 60m Killiecrankie
Kris Penn
Mon 7th Oct 2019
21 Edge Of Pleasure - with Androo
1 20 80m lead by Kyle Weatherman
2 21 lead by Kyle Weatherman
Mixed trad 80m, 12 Mount Buffalo Classic
Kyle Weatherman
Fri 20th Dec 2019
21 Airtime Over Pumicestone
1 18 35m lead by Mark
2 18 30m
3 21 40m lead by Mark
4 19 40m
5 2 60m
6 19 40m lead by Mark
Mixed trad 250m, 24 Mt Tibrogargan
Sun 22nd Mar 2020
7 5+ 7+ Tyskyewic

Sadly polished, but premium route.

1 5+ 35m
2 5+ 45m
3 5+ 25m
4 6c 35m
5 6+ 25m
6 7- 35m
7 7 35m
Trad 240m Valle del Sarca Classic
Robert Buschlinger
Thu 3rd May 2018
21 Bungleboori Crack

A proper soaring line, and way more overhanging than you might think! Some sections of real choss (challenging to negotiate without dislodging on your belayer) but outweighed by the quality of such a proud bit of trad.

I fell off the first (wet and dirty) moves of P1, came down, and went again to send the pitch. The upper half is worthwhile, but the start up the thin crack is quite sandy and terrible.

P2 is the money, and probably tonnes of fun with 4+ #3's to actually protect it. As it was I had only a single set of large cams, and spent most of the time being quite terrified, and relying on inferior gear to protect surprisingly gymnastic moves through steepness. It probably made it all the more memorable, really.

I slung the giant bollard at the top for an anchor (since I had no gear left).

1 21 25m lead by Paul Thomson
2 21 45m lead by Paul Thomson
Trad 70m Blue Mountains Classic
Paul Thomson
Tue 14th Apr 2020
21 Tim Tam Jam

Bit sandy at the beginning but still a fun first pitch. Wicked second pitch, pinches or off width at the top, you decide

- with steve willson
1 21 20m lead by Hunter Cole
2 21 20m lead by Hunter Cole
Trad 40m Scarborough Cliffs Very Good
Hunter Cole
Mon 15th Jun 2020
21 Airtime Over Pumicestone - with Rainer Scheu
1 18 35m lead by Willem
2 18 30m lead by Rainer Scheu
3 21 40m lead by Willem
4 19 40m lead by Rainer Scheu
5 2 60m
6 19 40m
Mixed trad 250m, 24 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good
Sat 5th Sep 2020
21 The Bachelor

First pitch could feel harder than the second. P2 is excellent, flowy and exciting.

- with Roxy
1 21 130m lead by Martin Cankov
2 lead by Roxy
Mixed trad 130m, 13 Bungonia Gorge Classic
Martin Cankov
Mon 5th Oct 2020
6b+ Le piège

Pitch 1 and 4 are stunners. In pitch 3 there are sadly some ledges. Anyway just an amazing route!

1 6b+ 30m
2 6a+ 40m
3 6a 30m
4 6a+ 50m
5 5c 30m
6 5c 40m
Mixed trad 220m, 1 Massif du Mont Blanc Classic
Tue 8th Sep 2020
6b+ Le pont des soupirs
1 6b+ 250m
2 6a
3 5c
4 3a
5 6a
6 6b+
7 6a+
8 6a
Trad 250m Massif du Mont Blanc
Tue 8th Sep 2020
6a+ 6b+ Fanny - with Jean
1 6a+ 25m
Trad 25m Annot Good
Olivier L
Tue 6th Oct 2020
18 20 The Camel

A big day up Australia's newest big wall route.

Left the car at 5:23am from Perry's Lookdown and within 20 minutes of walking I rolled my ankle badly however we maintained a cracking pace to the O Tree and started climbing by 8am.

First 9 pitches climbed nicely and we were able link most pitches with our 67m rope.

passing the 11 o'clock pitch (P9) at 10:50am

Our pace then slowed on the next 5 pitches with a lil bit of excitement on the Pebble Pitch.

Finial 5 pitches I was feeling a bit worn down but we thrutched through them. (scary moment on P18 well above a bolt and a hold snapped on me )

Topped out and climbed pitch 20 on the way back to the car.

Outstanding views from P16 up

Car to car 14hrs and some change.

Thanks Will Vidler for putting up with my sub-par banter!

Cheer for all the effort of putting this line up! Michael Law Eugene Mak Jeffrey Crass

Also for reference the emergency bottles of water are still full

- with Will Vidler
1 15 lead by Mitchell Stewart
2 10 lead by Mitchell Stewart
3 18 lead by Will Vidler
4 15 lead by Will Vidler
5 17 lead by Will Vidler
6 17 lead by Will Vidler
7 5 lead by Will Vidler
8 18 lead by Will Vidler
9 18 lead by Mitchell Stewart
10 5 lead by Mitchell Stewart
11 16 lead by Mitchell Stewart
12 16 lead by Mitchell Stewart
13 16 lead by Will Vidler
14 18 lead by Will Vidler
15 10 lead by Mitchell Stewart
16 18 lead by Will Vidler
17 10 lead by Will Vidler
18 18 lead by Mitchell Stewart
19 18 lead by Will Vidler
Trad 500m Blue Mountains Good
Mitchell Stewart
Mon 29th Oct 2018
20 Clockwork Orange

The rap anchor chain (in the gully, over the waterfall) is too short, needs to be extended or relocated in a better spot. Be careful because the ropes can easily get stuck.

1 18 lead by Alessandro Zen
2 20 lead by Alessandro Zen
3 15 lead by Alessandro Zen
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Alessandro Zen
Sat 10th Nov 2018
20 Third World Assassin

Unfortunately a lot of vegetation which detracted from the climb. If you go I would recommend taking a wire brush and making a day of it to clean it up. I was not aware of its current state otherwise would have done so myself. Not sure I will get the chance again before I go home. Would be a nice climb if cleaned properly. The second pitch is one of the scariest leads I have ever done. Thin and tricky gear the whole way. Had to sit a couple of times. Third pitch was the best in my opinion with great climbing and good gear, though a small amount of vegetation in the crack detracted from the quality.

1 17 20m lead by Josh Worley
2 20 24m lead by Josh Worley
3 19 24m lead by Josh Worley
4 15 19m lead by Josh Worley
Trad 87m Chinamans Bluff Good
Josh Worley
Thu 6th Dec 2018
20 The Ravages of Time
1 17 350m
2 18
3 18
4 20
5 17
6 18
7 16
8 20
Mixed trad 350m, 47 Chinamans Bluff Good
Jonathan Hattrell
Sat 8th Dec 2018
20 Rigaudon
1 20 70m
Trad 70m Ben Lomond Classic
David Tan
Sat 5th Jan 2019
19 20 R Technical Ecstasy

P1 was good, P2 was super tricky and a solid lead by Dan, very dubious at 20! There are some nice wires to protect the start of the P2 crux, but you have to do the delicate/balance move to gain the good hold, a tad scary. The rest of P2 is ok, we retreated over left and belayed as for P2 of Simpleton. The last vertical shallow crack looked ok, but we were not going to commit to that standup move. Last pitch of Simpleton.

- with missed last, missed last
1 19 90m
2 lead by missed last
Trad 90m Grampians
Mon 15th Apr 2019
7 A0 7 A0 Teamwork

traverse in the 9th pitch was dripping wet but climbable thanks to bolts. Enjoyable route after the first somewhat shabby pitches.

- with Danilo Hondo
1 3+ 50m
2 3+ 40m
3 4+ 50m
4 5+ 50m
5 5 35m
6 5+ 50m
7 6 40m
8 6+ 45m
9 7 35m
10 5 30m
11 4+ 45m
Mixed trad 470m, 52 Hohes Brett Very Good
Melwin Quacke
Tue 30th Jul 2019
20 The Wars of the Roses
1 16 72m
2 17
3 20
4 16
Trad 72m Wolgan Valley
Fri 27th Sep 2019
20 Clockwork Orange

Really good!! p1 soft and very 3D, p2 super cool bit pumpy (congrats Ash for icecream!), p3 easy w couple of cool moves. Take small gear (2x small nuts or microcams help). Dont break the sandy holds at the start.

- with ash brennan
1 18 20m
2 20 25m
3 15 16m
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Maria LC
Sun 13th Oct 2019
20 The Wars of the Roses

I can see why pitch 3 is the legend that the wind sings the songs about. Mega commitment mode needs activation incoherent to some subconscious praying to the Wolganverse. Can be aptly described as an intergalactic voyage hypothetically invoking similar excitement and fear.

But I would like to say a word to two about Pitch The Second. Now Mr.Steven's guidebook doesn't give a grade to The Pitch, only a 'hand' is stamped to it as a reference. Igonarently assuming an easy grade ramble up some loose blocks, I was confronted by some pretty technical stemming on some pretty mobile terrain. Placing gear behind a block that possessed the ability to replicate music of an African drum, subdued trauma pushing me forward, I found myself bear hugging one these blocks holding on to the biggest jug of the entire route. "I think its moving Andy. It definitely moves".

Never in my life I have been so happy to reach a belay station inspite of not having the gear for its perfect rock. "Whatever it is, it won't be as bad as what just happened down low".

"Proposterously good".

PS Apologies to the visiting American climbers we scared away from the top of Pitch 2 as they were about to simultaneously board the jam train of P1. I guess our healthcare is better than theirs and we wouldn't have had to strip them to make it look like a hiking accident.

1 16 72m
2 17
3 20
4 16
Trad 72m Wolgan Valley Mega Classic
Nikhilesh Sharma
Sat 5th Oct 2019
20 Butt Funky

The vegetated sections detract a little.

- with Chris Arvier
1 18 45m lead by Anthony Cuskelly
2 20 52 lead by Chris Arvier
3 10 lead by Anthony Cuskelly
Trad 110m Mount Wellington Good
Anthony Cuskelly
Tue 31st Dec 2019
20 Xerxes

Fantastic position & good clmbing. But somewhat adventurous with loose rock and soil in places.

- with And
1 20 72m lead by And
2 19 lead by Kyle Weatherman
3 19 lead by And
Trad 72m Grampians Good
Kyle Weatherman
Fri 17th Jan 2020
20 Five Fingered Mary

Memorable. P1 - veg. P2 was excellent climbing. P3 start was fairly perplexing initially but managed to find some on-grade beta. P4 - Got up into the roof proper and essentially gave up - poor form - aided a 2m section and then freed out the last squeezy sideways section, taking my helmet off mid squeeze.

- with Olivia
1 16 42m lead by Olivia
2 18 24m lead by Ian.Grabowski
3 18 24m lead by Ian.Grabowski
4 20 15m lead by Ian.Grabowski
Trad 110m Arapiles Very Good
Tue 18th Feb 2020
20 The Ravages of Time - with Anthony Wuster
1 17 350m lead by Clément S
2 18 lead by Anthony Wuster
3 18 lead by Clément S
4 20 lead by Anthony Wuster
5 17 lead by Clément S
6 18 lead by Anthony Wuster
7 16 lead by Clément S
8 20 lead by Anthony Wuster
Mixed trad 350m, 47 Chinamans Bluff Classic
Clément S
Mon 24th Feb 2020
20 Unearthed

Good but bit chossy

- with Elisa
1 18 20m
2 19 20m
3 20 40m
4 19 20m
Trad 100m Blue Mountains Very Good
Alessandro Zen
Sat 29th Feb 2020
20 Sultan
1 20 65m
Trad 65m Mount Buffalo
Mateusz Lubojanski
Sat 7th Mar 2020
20 Clockwork Orange

Great route! Start holds are a bit suspect so take care off the ground. Ben tried his best to punt me off P2 with a few very firmly placed wires but to no avail, there are jugs galore! Linked P2 and 3

- with Ben Hanley
1 18 20m lead by Grace Mackie
2 20 25m lead by Ben Hanley
3 15 16m lead by Ben Hanley
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Grace Mackie
Sat 20th Jun 2020
20 Clockwork Orange - with james ritchie
1 18 20m lead by Ryan Armstrong
2 20 25m lead by james ritchie
3 15 16m lead by james ritchie
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Ryan Armstrong
Sat 4th Jul 2020
20 20 R Strangers Eliminate

Clipped the bolt... Slipped off the reachy hold above it! Devo!

1 20 54m
2 18
Trad 54m Arapiles
Adam Flower
Sat 7th Nov 2020
21 Wasted Direct
1 16 12m
2 21 12m
3 14 10m
Trad 34m Muizenberg
Renato da Costa
Wed 26th Jun 2019
6b Le cité des doges
1 6b 40m
2 6a 30m
Trad 70m Massif du Mont Blanc
Sun 6th Sep 2020
6b Fior di Loto
1 5b 45
2 6b 20
3 6a+ 30
4 5c 35
5 3a 25
6 5c 40
7 6a 20
Trad 220m Punta Cristalliera Mega Classic
Roby Candela
Sat 25th Jul 2020
5.10c The Squamish Buttress - with James
1 5.10a lead by Alessandro Zen
2 5.5 lead by James
3 5.7 lead by Alessandro Zen
4 5.5 lead by Alessandro Zen
5 5.9 lead by James
6 5.10c lead by Alessandro Zen
7 5.6 lead by James
Trad 210m Squamish
Alessandro Zen
Mon 1st Jul 2019
5.10c Rock On Direct - with James
1 5.10a lead by Alessandro Zen
2 5.10c lead by James
Trad 45m Squamish
Alessandro Zen
Mon 1st Jul 2019
5.9 5.10c The Squamish Buttress (The Squamish Buttress Linkup the butt light)

Linked 'Banana Peel' into 'Bommstick Crack' into 'Squamish Buttress' into 'The Butt Light'.

6h up, 1h30 down.

Approach shoes all the way.

Linked 1+2, 3+4, then did a short scramble pitch to base of butt light (5.9). From there, I ran a long pitch to a tree just below the 5.8 chimney.

1 5.8 210m lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
2 5.5 lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
3 5.7 lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
4 5.7 lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
5 5.9 linkup the butt light , lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
6 5.8 linkup the butt light , lead by Noah Boudreau-Richard
7 5.6 linkup the butt light
Trad 210m Squamish Mega Classic
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Wed 5th Aug 2020
5.10c The Squamish Buttress - with Julien
1 5.8 210m
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.10c
7 5.6
Trad 210m Squamish Classic
Tue 25th Aug 2020
19 The Wind Cries Mary

I think we missed the actual P1 since we climbed on natural pro / scrambled up bushes, thinking the first bolt I saw was P1's (figured later it's the first P2 bolt), then stopped most of the way up P2 when I ran out of gear; built an anchor with 2 high cams + bolt. Ollie finished P2 off and we had a cramped lunch on the ledge at the actual end of P2.

Took some rests P3... seconder gets the heavy pack/extra rope, which was even more debilitating when trying to link the steep moves at the start of P6. Eventually I aided the second two bolts with a prusik, but that was still a major hour-long battle as the sun set and light drizzle passed through. Maybe we were off-route - the end was a bush-bash in the dark, followed by a much longer head-torch bush-bash from the anchors to find the trail back to the rap anchors.

Gear: took doubles #.3 to #2 and one #3 as per mikl's advice, ~16 bolt plates & QDs, single & double slings. Still felt run out in parts, especially given how many holds broke off (and not just the obvious thin/hollow ones).

13+ hour car-to-car epic.

- with Oliver
1 8 lead by Dean
2 18 lead by Dean
3 19 lead by Oliver
4 18 lead by Oliver
5 18 lead by Dean
6 19 lead by Oliver
Mixed trad 180m, 25 Blue Mountains Good
Fri 2nd Feb 2018
19 Judgement Day

A fun traverse

- with Climb that turkey, Cat A
1 19 30 lead by Cat A
2 25 lead by Hamish
3 15 lead by Climb that turkey
Mixed trad 70m, 1 Arapiles Classic
Mon 26th Mar 2018
19 Echidna (Echidna P1)

Bailed easily left to Denithor after we completed the first pitch.

1 19 15m lead by Mike Daws
Mixed trad 15m, 5 Orroral area Very Good
Mike Daws
Mon 2nd Apr 2018
19 Telstar
1 18 lead by Mike De Marco
2 17 lead by Alessandro Zen
3 19 lead by Mike De Marco
Trad 80m Blue Mountains
Alessandro Zen
Sat 2nd Jun 2018
5.10b Centrefold
1 5.10b 60m
2 5.10b
3 5.10a
Trad 60m Squamish Classic
David Tan
Sun 29th Jul 2018

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