Ascents by Gavo having Trad CPR

Finally... Third weekend on it, between 2 and 5 redpoint shots a day. Continually forgetting or just stuffing up beta. Finally got it, last go of the day. Feel like I should have had it two weekends ago but super psyched it's in the bag.

Third shot. Pretty happy with that. Nice bouldery climbing. Lost considerable skin on the crux... it's nice to dial it quickly.

Wooohoooo finally... got on this first about a year ago haven't been back since... Timmah put the gear on it at the start of this trip... went up twice that day and got first links into and out of the crux...

Next day on redpointed to the rest jug and fell off going for the anchor.. next day got it first shot of the day without warming up.. conditions perfect.

Have only done pitch1.. I'll log pitch 2 as another tick when I get it... Friggin amazing.. this route has loads going for it... loved it.. took 3 shots to get it because I just didn't have juice at the crux after 3 days on... Need to start remembering beta also.

Don't shortchange yourself a nice victory whipper at the end... perfect end to an amazing climb

Approx date.

P1 and P2 only.

P1: pretty weird committing move which I just didn't want to do...

P2: Rad. Had the beta, got it second shot. Great day.

Saved P3 for Fisting Party... need to sack up

First shot: popped off from the mono.

Second shot: did dyno, lunge, then pulled crux pretty easily. Rested a bunch of times including sit at the rest just before the last dyno/deadpoint. Felt pretty pumped, surprised I finished.

Needed to finish this off... Belayed Quentin on the project so took the opportunity to get the weird stand-up beta... got it right away and practiced three times then got the tick... it's really a one-move wonder... maybe 22 to the top?

Went bolt to bolt to put on the gear and learn the route and got it next shot.. hard to judge the difficulty as it's cruxy

Did it without a dyno... Very reachy and sketchy though. Finish of traverse was not the least scary thing I've ever done. Went on it to have a crack at Father O

Had 3 shots, only to the third bolt to lower off because I forgot draws. Felt pretty average. Only 1 shot at the crux was worthwhile.

First time going to the top. Had a few shots on the crux but didn't link it fully. Went to the top once, resting on the bolts. Didn't work anything past the crux

Woahhhhh! Did the Crux moves and bailed from ledge above the second bolt as didn't have gear. Amazing so far...did full dyno from decent hold at end of start traverse to semi jug after a few goes on tr but it's not dialled yet.. Went straight up from there to the next jug... Next moves very tricky and sharp on right hand but super cool.. Especially that left single pad mono.. Psyched to get back and go to the top

Woahhhhh! Did the Crux moves and bailed from ledge above the second bolt as didn't have gear. Amazing so far...did full dyno from decent hold at end of start traverse to semi jug after a few goes on tr but it's not dialled yet.. Went straight up from there to the next jug... Next moves very tricky and sharp on right hand but super cool.. Especially that left single pad mono.. Psyched to get back and go to the top

climbed with Chris T.

Good climb, didnt think it was too soft for the grade.

Greasy for first few meters with the high humidity.

Sapped alot of strength, but bloody amazing climb. Bit greasy in the humidity and march-flies were bloody annoying.

My first 17. Seemed quite easy but worth it. Good pro in the crux.

Had to get back up the cliff after coming down halfway through the day. This is the way I'll use to get up to cut lunch every time instead of roping up and doing an actual route.

w/ Andy. Borderline sandbag. Dont think "its just a 15". Tougher than it looked

w/ Billie. Led whole thing. Pretty easy. Paid attention to dangerous spots as have heard its hurt a few complacent people.

w/ Michael D. Awesome climb for the grade. Nice exposure, easily accessible.

w/ Josh M. One of my first leads and my first 13 lead. Awesome, but the overhang took some work.

w/ Andy. Led pitch 2. Great walk/traverse out the ledge. Seconding this was one of my first climbs at Araps

With Tom (Germany). Seconded the whole way as had just started climbing. Blew me away. Looking forward to leading.

w/ Billie. Hard for a 15, but Ghost of Melville way harder.

w/ Billie & Michael D.

Nice and easy, interesting traverse. Fun climb

w/ Billie & Michael D. Dont remember much about this. Will lead it again.

w/ Michael D.

Nice climb. Was dissapointed first time. Led P's 1,3,5,7.

Led all pitches again in Feb w/ Billie.

w/ Adrian/Ramon. Led P2. P1 is average, pitch 2 is super sweet and exposed. Go uncomforably forward to find pro, unlike what I did