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206 ascents by gaetan having trad-cpr Back to index

 
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Showing 1 - 100 out of 206 ascents.

Rating Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
2672 points
23 Pocket Full of Dreams

Took me a couple of tries to do the start.

- with thara
Mixed 25m, 2 Grampians Very Good gaetan
Sat 9th Sep 2017
2469 points
22 In Lemon Butter

Great layback start, felt easier than it looked. Tricky finish. First 22 !

- with thara
Trad 15m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 2nd May 2015
2468 points
22 Archimedes Principle P1

A bit reachy but some cool move, flashed on pre-placed gear.

Trad 20m Grampians Good gaetan
Mon 27th Apr 2015
2449 points
20 Electric Warrior

Getting of the ground is easier than it looks. Great climb, good pro. Some moving rock in the middle.

- with Molly
Trad 42m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 17th Mar 2018
2441 points
21 Yesterday's Rooster

alzheimer onsight, tricky classic arapiles crux. Good to work on arĂȘte climbing which I am not good at.

Mixed 22m, 2 Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 21st Nov 2015
2437 points
21 Chinese Algebra

alzeimer onsight, but I'll call it a flash. Awesome climbing, the crux still felt hard I need to relax more on the hard bits.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 48m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sun 31st Jul 2016
2373 points
21 Goldfinger

Had a bit of trouble following the line, but cool moves. I used a wire between 1st and 2nd bolt (flake looks a bit dubious) and a small cam higher up. Could do with some extra bolt so gear is not needed

Trad 35m Moonarie Good gaetan
Fri 10th Apr 2015
2261 points
21 Kachoong

very happy to get the onsight , trying place gear once on the roof wasn't my best idea.

Mixed 25m, 1 Arapiles Mega Classic gaetan
Sat 5th Apr 2014
2213 points
20 Christian Crack

This one got me working a bit, not the best warm up. Very happy with the onsight though

- with thara
Trad 13m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sun 3rd May 2015
2202 points
26 Archimedes' Principle

Seconded it to clean the gear. None of the move are too hard but there is a lot of climbing. Still a bit beyond me.

Mixed 60m, 2 Grampians Mega Classic gaetan
Fri 15th May 2015
2197 points
19 R Green Shirt

The finish looks unlikely but it's all there. I don't remember seeing a loose flake let alone placing an rp ??

- with Molly, Sean Ladiges
Trad 25m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 3rd Sep 2016
2196 points
18 Aardvark

Nice little route

- with Molly
Trad 18m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sun 18th Mar 2018
2186 points
25 Mr. Joshua Pitch 1

Back up to work the move.Got a new beta for the first crux. Got insanely pumped linking the crux to the rest. Worked the move for the upper bit. Need more fitness

- with Julian Goad, Chris Harper
Mixed 35m, 8 Grampians Classic gaetan
Sat 7th May 2016
2186 points
25 Mr. Joshua Pitch 1

Went up to put the gear on, couldn't remember half of the move ...

- with Julian Goad, Chris Harper
Mixed 35m, 8 Grampians Classic gaetan
Sat 7th May 2016
2162 points
24 Mutiny On The Bounty

Couldn't do the first move again, did clean after pulling past first move.

Trad 20m Grampians Very Good gaetan
Sun 11th Jun 2017
2161 points
21 Malicious Intent

Hard move at the top, exciting finish till I found good gear

Trad 23m Grampians Good gaetan
Tue 7th May 2013
2160 points
24 Mutiny On The Bounty

Did all the move, harder for short people. A #3 camalot or equivalent works well if you don't have #4.

- with gaetan
Trad 20m Grampians Very Good gaetan
Sun 4th Jun 2017
2124 points
23 Fever Pitch

The top is thin and keeps coming at you. Managed to keep it together and pull all the move. Great pitch in an awesome location. One to try on lead now.

Mixed 30m, 2 Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sat 21st Nov 2015
2124 points
23 Lunatic

Tricky committing start. The rest is really enjoyable, pumpy finish on jugs.

Mixed 25m, 3 Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 21st Nov 2015
2122 points
20 Blimp

Ended being stupidly pumped at the top before the traverse. Really Nice corner.

Trad 39m Grampians Classic gaetan
Sat 25th Mar 2017
2120 points
26 Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)

went up to work the move

1 25
Mixed 50m, 12 Grampians Classic gaetan
Sat 3rd Oct 2015
2120 points
26 Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)

Link up to the first crux but powered out. Refined my beta for the upper part and the upper crux

1 25
Mixed 50m, 12 Grampians Classic gaetan
Sat 3rd Oct 2015
2120 points
26 Mr Joshua

With the gear in, dog my way up to try the move. The lower crux felt fine once I found a good beta. The upper crux feels almost harder, I can see it being an issue on the redpoint.

1 25
Mixed 50m, 12 Grampians Classic gaetan
Fri 2nd Oct 2015
2087 points
19 Tannin

Really nice climbing and good gear all the way. Nice way to get back on the lead after the winter break

Trad 35m Arapiles Mega Classic gaetan
Sat 5th Sep 2015
2071 points
18 And a Bottle of Rum

Only did the first pitch, rapped of 2 nuts from the ledge below the second pitch. Nice feature, some loose rock in places. A few committing move, but nothing too hard

- with Sean Ladiges
1 18
2
3
Trad 93m Grampians Good gaetan
Sat 28th Jan 2017
2069 points
21 Commander Cody

Glad for the #5 cam this time, my endurance being shit I got a bit pumped but managed to push through and keep it together. Great line.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 30m Mount Buffalo Good gaetan
Sun 29th Mar 2015
2042 points
19 Downwind of Angels

One of the best 19 I ever climbed. Face climbing onto steep crack.

Trad 55m Moonarie Mega Classic gaetan
Thu 9th Apr 2015
2037 points
22 Continuum

Just enough gear to keep you sane. Interesting crux move, probably easier if you are tall. Be gentle climbing the rooflet, everything feels loose.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 25m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sun 31st Jul 2016
2036 points
22 Straw Dogs

nice technical bottom, to a pumpy top.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 11m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 30th Jul 2016
2029 points
17 Mari

Full value at 17

- with Molly
Trad 40m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sat 17th Mar 2018
2021 points
19 Blue-eyed Blonde

Steeper than it looks, got a bit pumped, made pulling the crux a bit hard, Awesome climb.

Trad 25m Freycinet National Park Classic gaetan
Wed 28th Jan 2015
2016 points
18 Jackal

Nice variety of jam, the wide section is easier than it looks. The fun is over quickly though

- with Chris Harper
Trad 25m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 30th Jul 2016
2005 points
20 Stormbringer-Rapier Combo

Loose block at the start, we tip toed around the left to get established on the Stormbringer crack. Lead the second pitch, awesome corner crack. Watch out for a loose looking block when exiting the steep first part of the second pitch. Last pitch is a bit committing on lead but short and powerful. We added some cord to the rap tree. Bring some extra sling/cord for the rap, as the existing tat is old and shouldn't be trusted.

- with Sean Ladiges
Trad 48m Grampians Very Good gaetan
Sun 29th Jan 2017
2005 points
20 The Lonely Sea

Avoid yanking on the chalked (??) loose block in the middle of the first pitch. Great second pitch, did it yoyo style. Lead it to the top after Sean handed me the lead. Tricky wide section. Rap anchor is on the left when topping out.

- with sean
Trad 50m Grampians Classic gaetan
Sat 28th Jan 2017
2004 points
20 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

onsighted the two first pitch, 2nd one is in your face right from the anchor, awesome fun though.

Trad 100m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sun 9th Jun 2013
1960 points
21 Talk of Mad Women

To clean the gear, nice tricky slab move at the start.

Trad 25m Grampians Very Good gaetan
Sun 4th Jun 2017
1955 points
21 Tartarus

Did it in 2 pitches. 1st one is good fun with various jamming and bridging. 2 second one felt desperate, the overhanging groove is hard, rested on gear a bit.

- with thara
Trad 60m Mount Wellington Very Good gaetan
Mon 9th Feb 2015
1941 points
18 Turquoise Trad 25m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 21st Nov 2015
1937 points
21 The Status Quo

First pitch (left variant) not great, maybe the right variant is better. Second pitch is an awesome sustained corner. we cleaned the grass so it's quite nice now, but still a bit mossy. Found the last pitch hard for the grade, compared to the other 21 I did at buffalo (maybe 22?) This pitch is still a bit grassy, but there is now a stuck nut above the last belay. Great route though.

1 lead by Thara
2 lead by Gaetan
3 lead by Thara
Trad 140m Mount Buffalo Classic gaetan
Thu 11th Dec 2014
1903 points
20 Home James

Awesome face climbing on Dykes. Bolting is a bit spaced but where you need them, and takes a bit of gear as well

- with Chris Harper
Mixed 30m, 4 Mount Buffalo Very Good gaetan
Sun 29th Mar 2015
1899 points
22 Ephemeral Direct Finish

Pulling on good hold, a bit like climbing in the gym

- with thara
Trad 22m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 2nd May 2015
1877 points
19 Lemmington

more layback working on the weakness, awesome top but gear a bit tricky

Trad 30m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sun 6th Oct 2013
1827 points
22 White Heat

Dog my way up to put the gear in and workout the move

- with Rodney Polkinghorne
Trad 20m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 27th May 2017
1810 points
18 Claw

interesting start, a bit of a fight but topped out victorious.

Trad 20m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 13th Sep 2014
1806 points
26 Archimedes' Principle

Managed to do the moves up through the crux with multiple rest and a few whipper but too tired to carry on to the top. I'll need to get used to the style and get my endurance up. Amazing route !

Mixed 60m, 2 Grampians Mega Classic gaetan
Mon 27th Apr 2015
1800 points
18 The Rack

Nice jamming at the top, shame it's only a short section.

- with thara
Trad 13m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sun 3rd May 2015
1791 points
21 Running on Empty

A long-ish move at the start but otherwise a really nice route

Trad 20m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 21st Nov 2015
1769 points
20 R Technical Ecstasy

Used it as an aid practice climb (not the best choice), but ended up freeing most of it

1 16 lead by Gaetan
2 20 lead by Thara
3 16 lead by Gaetan
Trad 90m Grampians Good gaetan
Sun 7th Dec 2014
1763 points
23 Milk Blood

Fell and rested a fair bit on gear. Everything felt a bit desperate, awesome climbing on great finger lock. One to come back to

- with thara
Trad 15m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 2nd May 2015
1748 points
22 In Lemon Butter

Climb it yo yo style after Sean tried the start. Sweated of the ledge and took a good flight, a bit harder that what I remembered

- with Sean Ladiges, Molly
Trad 15m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Mon 5th Sep 2016
1747 points
22 Squeakeasy

Put up a good fight put I got too pumped. Sustained !!

- with Molly
Trad 30m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sun 4th Sep 2016
1736 points
22 Hellspite

Fell at the tricky crux. Desperately clawed my way to the top after figuring out the moves, seems to lack feet.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 12m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 30th Jul 2016
1730 points
26 Mr Joshua

Went up with the intend of putting the gear and try the moves. Got shut down by the crux.

1 25
Mixed 50m, 12 Grampians Classic gaetan
Fri 2nd Oct 2015
1730 points
21 English Ethics

Exciting traverse, I could just reach the crimp from the start. Good face climbing. Interesting way to get on

- with thara
Mixed 15m, 1 Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sun 3rd May 2015
1720 points
19 Tootsie Trad 20m Grampians Average gaetan
Sat 26th Jan 2013
1716 points
19 Tannin

Such a great climb !

- with Molly
Trad 35m Arapiles Mega Classic gaetan
Sun 18th Mar 2018
1716 points
19 Morfydd

Probably the third time I second this one.

Trad 30m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sun 18th Mar 2018
1708 points
22 The Icing On The Cake

Steep slab, desperate at time but with some nice holds towards the top. Started where it branches of initiation, as we had both done initiation before. Managed to second the 2nd pitch clean somehow ! It's quite run out and would be better with a couple extra carrot.

- with Mattyj
1 22
2 21
Mixed 75m, 9 Mount Buffalo Very Good gaetan
Wed 27th Apr 2016
1707 points
18 Huey

Awesome looking line, climb easier than it looks.

- with Rodney Polkinghorne
Trad 16m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 27th May 2017
1706 points
17 Buckley's

Great arete, some tricky moves.

Trad 20m Moonarie Very Good gaetan
Thu 9th Apr 2015
1706 points
17 Vortex

Interesting steep climbing, found a knee bar Gear not always as good as you'd think.

Trad 45m Moonarie Classic gaetan
Wed 8th Apr 2015
1700 points
20 Wasp

went a lot smoother on second. Not as hard as I remembered. Awesome climbing.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 30m Arapiles Classic gaetan
Sun 31st Jul 2016
1696 points
18 Hyaena

Great jamming test piece !

Trad 16m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 31st Aug 2013
1687 points
21 Silk And Satin

Such a good climb ! shame I was a bit too tired to go for the lead, happy to have seconded it again.

Trad 35m Mount Buffalo Very Good gaetan
Fri 12th Dec 2014
1671 points
20 Cows with Guns

Nice slabbing on slightly featured wall.

- with Chris Harper, Mattyj
Mixed 50m, 7 Mount Buffalo Good gaetan
Sun 24th Apr 2016
1642 points
19 Togrul Khan

Had a top rope go on it a few month before, but cool first 19. I wasn't confident on steep stuff at the time

Trad 28m Arapiles Good gaetan
Thu 10th May 2012
1640 points
18 Rajah

good crack climbing, slightly off hand for me. Didn't bother with the last pitch

- with sean
Trad 80m Ben Lomond Very Good gaetan
Thu 28th Feb 2013
1638 points
21 Pathos

Pumped out at the end of the crux with the jug in sight. I was feeling solid till there.

Trad 57m Grampians Classic gaetan
Sun 26th Mar 2017
1623 points
19 Stud City

Nice Journey, fell off the second pitch due to wet shoe. Fell off the third pitch on second, due to runnel/crack being wet. We mostly climb the slab on the right for the third pitch.

- with thara
1 17 lead by Thara
2 19 lead by Gaetan
3 19 lead by Thara
Trad 100m Freycinet National Park Classic gaetan
Tue 3rd Feb 2015
1606 points
18 I'm A Little Dinosaur Trad 25m Arapiles Good gaetan
Wed 7th Nov 2012
1603 points
22 Return to Gariwerd

Awesome climb ! Got a bit spooked by some fiddly gear, but still went up it in questionable style . One to come back to.

- with Chris Harper
1 22
Trad 35m Grampians Classic gaetan
Fri 15th May 2015
1599 points
18 Voodoo

classic weird arapiles crux, lovely climb though

Trad 65m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sat 13th Oct 2012
1594 points
20 Bam Bam Trad 12m Arapiles gaetan
Sat 9th Jun 2012
1590 points
18 Death Row

Call it flash as I fell on layback start on my first go. I took my time getting out of the box , and got a bit scared once above it. Great climb though

Trad 45m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 8th Jun 2013
1590 points
21 Silk And Satin

awesome corner crack, sustained

Trad 35m Mount Buffalo Very Good gaetan
Sun 26th Jan 2014
1566 points
20 Maxwell's Demon

tough warm up, especially with part of the route wet... Some dubious rock on the left after the ledge.

- with Chris Harper
Trad 20m Grampians Average gaetan
Thu 14th May 2015
1549 points
18 Rajah

1st pitch only, broken in two. Such a cool jamming route !

Trad 80m Ben Lomond Very Good gaetan
Fri 23rd Jan 2015
1547 points
19 Quisling

Warm up, Good old arapiles weirdness, left a bit of skin on the slippery jams

- with Sean Ladiges
Trad 44m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sun 4th Sep 2016
1541 points
19 Firedance

Felt easy for the grade

Trad 15m Arapiles gaetan
Sun 9th Jun 2013
1526 points
18 Kinkaid (Kincaid) Trad 20m Arapiles gaetan
Tue 6th Nov 2012
1519 points
20 Ukrainian Geranium

top pitch as scary on second than on lead. Pretty cool thin and technical climb

Trad 45m Grampians Very Good gaetan
Sat 6th Dec 2014
1507 points
19 Run free with the buffalo

Another nicely protected slab. 30m to double carrot belay

- with Chris Harper, Mattyj
Mixed 30m, 6 Mount Buffalo Good gaetan
Sun 24th Apr 2016
1507 points
19 Chickens in Choppers

Nice protected slab, route is 30m to the double carrot belay.

- with Chris Harper, Mattyj
Trad 30m Mount Buffalo Good gaetan
Sun 24th Apr 2016
1481 points
18 The Stoat Steps Out Trad 8m Arapiles gaetan
Sat 9th Jun 2012
1481 points
18 Golden Fleece Trad 35m Arapiles gaetan
Sat 9th Jun 2012
1476 points
19 The Desired

hard to read, but the move are ok, second pitch hard for 17

1 19 lead by sean
2 17 lead by Gaetan
Trad 60m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 5th Oct 2013
1476 points
18 Salem

My first 18, apparently one of the most fallen of 18 at Arapiles

Trad 40m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Thu 24th May 2012
1469 points
18 Caligula

Good old school wide crack and awesome position. Had to rest on the rope on the second pitch to get the #4 out, looks like it had walked in. Did all the move clean though.

- with Chris Harper
1 lead by Gaetan
2 lead by Chris
Trad 60m Mount Buffalo Classic gaetan
Mon 30th Mar 2015
1454 points
18 Digitalis

Great climb, did the direct finish as it's the logical line.

1 lead by Thara
2 lead by Gaetan
Trad 62m Mount Wellington Very Good gaetan
Sun 8th Feb 2015
1445 points
20 Cadenza

interesting finish on the traverse

Trad 20m Arapiles Good gaetan
Sun 6th Apr 2014
1436 points
18 The Initiation

Cool climb, good warm up for the trip. We managed to sort of miss the start despite what should be an easy abseil in. Also missed the new shiny bolt on the traverse pitch.

- with Thara
1 lead by Gaetan
2 lead by Thara
3 lead by Gaetan
4 lead by Thara
Trad 97m Mount Buffalo Very Good gaetan
Wed 10th Dec 2014
1435 points
18 Tiger Mitres Central Organ

Felt hard for 18, probably easier for taller people

- with Chris Harper
Trad 20m Grampians Average gaetan
Mon 13th Mar 2017
1434 points
18 A Burnt Out Case - with Chris Harper Trad 25m Grampians Good gaetan
Sun 12th Mar 2017
1432 points
17 Garden Gnome

Gear and holds keep on coming, fun climb

Trad 20m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Fri 12th Oct 2012
1430 points
22 Blasphemy

Thin gear. Committed to the wrong sequence at the crux. Cool move at the top

- with thara
Mixed 15m, 1 Arapiles Good gaetan
Sun 3rd May 2015
1424 points
20 Home James Mixed 30m, 4 Mount Buffalo Very Good gaetan
Sun 26th Jan 2014
1384 points
17 Overkill

not as reachy as it looks

Trad 23m Grampians Average gaetan
Sat 26th Jan 2013
1379 points
15 Future Past

Epic rope drag ... Rock on the start seems a bit suspect. Good warm up otherwise.

- with thara
Trad 31m Arapiles Average gaetan
Sat 2nd May 2015
1371 points
19 Walking the Plank

Exiting traverse !

Trad 25m Freycinet National Park Classic gaetan
Wed 28th Jan 2015
1366 points
18 The Stoat Steps Out

Nice warm up, but climbed poorly

Trad 8m Arapiles Very Good gaetan
Sat 30th Jul 2016

Showing 1 - 100 out of 206 ascents.