Ascents by Niels Tork having Trad CPR

Started on the 15, but felt this was not an obvious line and decided to move into the 17. Many loose rocks on both climbs and spaced, somtimes mediocre placements. On our first anchor we cleaned two massive boulders from the wall as we feared they might cause harm to whoever would climb this after us. Later during the climb I ended up with a piece of rock in my hand that I was holding as I was placing gear minutes earlier. At the top, we got confused what to do. I would highly suggest making your way to the anchors on the top of the wall to your left as the book suggests. We rapped down with two 60 meter ropes tied together and were able to do the rappel in one go to the ground.

Started this just after a drizzle, which made the first pitch slightly more challenging. Lead all pitches with three followers, belay ledges were descent enough. Magnificent climbing, you can see why this is one of the great classics at Arapiles. Some polished holds and crazy amounts of chalk everywhere couldn’t spoil our fun.

Not worth the trouble. Average climbing on questionable carrot bolts with commitment to top out (wouldn't rappel of the single rusted carabiner at the anchor) on a uninspiring grade 9 second pitch. The descent ain't a walk off, but a scramble/climb down with poor markings. Recommend doing the scramle up first, prior to climbing - to know your way around the crag afterwards.

Rested on my gear at both the cruxes. What an amazing climb! Will be back to get this clean.