Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
18 ~19 | Jack Horner — 2 attempts | 6m, 4 | ||||
Couldn’t clip anchors. Had to do an inverted kneebar second go- Dave just reached past and had no problem.
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | Average | |||
Rpt, changes every year
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Princess | 25m, 12 | Average | |||
Rpt, warm up
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Boys Games — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t find this any harder than the 2 routes to the right ( though did a silly slip below crux).
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Fri 19th Jan 2024 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Blue Sky Thinking — 2 attempts | 25m, 4 | Average | |||
Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. The little pockets were very slimy today. 2 laps.
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18 | ★★ Peeking Possum | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Nice flash by Flynn for his Duke of Ed
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18 | ★ Ferns and Fings | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ Roo Fing | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Very dirty
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17 | ★ Moss Monster | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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16 | ★ Fried Lichen | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
17 | ★ Cliff Limit | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt.
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19 | ★ Vertical Hanger | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 ~19 | ★ Hop | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Still feels hard for grade, height dependent for sure
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19 | ★ Wetting The Wick | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Fern Gully | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Jurassic Park | 31m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hopefully the predicted rain will settle the dust. Really great and varied moves and steeper than it looks. One go on TR to brush the holds then sent with a bit of power grunting and wobbling before we had to leave.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Telapia | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Quite a tricky one
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Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★ The exslovenian | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. I keep thinking a clean up of this route is needed. Nice traddish climbing on bolts, a couple of finger size cams can also be used.
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Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Careless Fingernicker — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, needed a bit of a brush. Left hand crack glove/ tape useful for me. Unfortunately I had brought 2 right hand gloves ( duh!)
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18 | ★★ Capricious | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. The moves on this route are great, if only it remained a bit cleaner. Rock improves a lot after 8 m. Calf pump!
The vegetation up high doesn’t interfere with route.
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
19 | ★ Vertical Hanger | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
I think we did this as a TR problem in the past. Awkward but interesting start
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19 | ★ Wetting The Wick | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★★ All Ass | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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22 | ★ Go Go Gadget | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Shares a lot of holds with route to right
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19 | ★ Three Amigo's | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ Builder's Cleavage | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Side Pull Bob | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Palm Sunday | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, alzheimers os, the slimpers felt pretty slimy today
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17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. A bit sandy, gave it a brush.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Mental Fatigue | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Unfortunately now crossed by another route.
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18 | ★ Fox Sox Pox | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Taylor Made | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Look Blue Go Purple | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Tue 21st Nov 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave The Terrace | ||||||
20 | ★★ Got that Phelan feeling | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The usual warm up in light rain
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
21 | ★ Gastric | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Some worthwhile committing moves on this off poor holds. Climbs completely independent of route to left to same anchors
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18 | ★ Show Bag | 13m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. The first bolt position is not in a good location for this route, it works better for Gastric. Hard start for grade.
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20 | ★ Opium | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Sharon Stone | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, lovely shady and breezy conditions after midday
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Electric Blue Area | ||||||
23 | ★ Under Pressure | 32m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Ate away my finger skin going direct on the crux. Mc Dougalled a bit in the end as I could hold the sloper and get feet up well with a half pad undercling but couldn’t reach the good hold
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Lonely Thursday | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ A Tale of Two Cities | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Slopers.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Offspring Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Red Head Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, another bouldery number, probably my favourite route, had to brush sand out of all the incuts
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Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Obed National Park | ||||||
North Clear Creek The Inner Circle | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Stop-n-Shop — 2 attempts | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very bouldery start, took me quite a few attempts to get as hard to work due to bolt being way behind you. Above easier climbing, though second roof fun. Two main attempts
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Obed National Park | ||||||
Lilly Bluff Left Side | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Loung Lizard — 2 attempts | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt Australian 23. Very cruxy, Had to work hard second go, the steep crimp section is quite full on
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.10c | ★ A Wave New Wolrd | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Misread the dihedral bit and had to reconsider. Rest straightforward.
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5.12a | ★★★ Hakuna Matata — 2 attempts | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt the need to get back and redpoint this before we leave. Found the redpoint crux up high first go and refined beta before getting it second go. We also took a few finger sized nuts and cams and made use of them. Kamikaze ladybugs everywhere at the top of the routes today.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Bronaugh Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Crumblies — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Needs to brush the slopers at the start a fair bit, very greasy and overchalked. Few goes to first bolt, went to top, clean second main attempt. Love the kneebars.
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ The Last Supper — 2 attempts | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried Daves way first go, and too reachy, but would have come off subsequent move anyway. Really nice climb, liked the sting in the tail.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 attempts | 26m | ||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.10b ~5.10c | ★ Springer | 23m | Average | |||
Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Acquafraggia | ||||||
La Mezzera | ||||||
6b | ★★ Pomi — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Would have been nicer in the shade, super slippery, quite technical
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
Fiabe per Samantha | ||||||
6b | ★ Nik | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Missed transition from overhung to slab first go. Capped by large roof so dry, but only one bolt with captive ring for an anchor.
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Vho | ||||||
Galleria | ||||||
6b | ★ Fipanza | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Took Dave and I about 4 goes each to do this, both different..6 b feels like a font grade, it was very bouldery. Climbing on road infrastructure, but it was dry
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
Landro Settore 4 | ||||||
7a |
★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
Greasy
2
7a
18m
Had to rest when pulling roof. I think I was doing it the hard left hand way, but maybe I was just weak. The rest of the route was fine. | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Città dei Sassi | ||||||
Sasso Gabriel Climbing | ||||||
6b+ | ★ DNA | 19m | ★ Good | |||
I think this was the one I was on, as had no guidebook. Was good from half way though a bit dirty in places, but at least it wasn’t polished. Mucked up bouldery start to hidden hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Tizi | 19m | Crap | |||
Polished rubbish. Feet slipped numerous times and the bolts are spaced enough as is.
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Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Comano Terme | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Delta | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Greased off the start, which was quite reachy first go. Didn’t want to have to repeat so after getting through it second go fought my way to anchors. Maybe 21 if you do laps on it to warm up but hard onsighting
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Tue 5th Sep 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
6c |
★★ Il buon caffè
1
4b
10m
Warm up he stemming muscles
2
6c
12m
Burly but ok once I had found some of the holds | 22m, 14 | ||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Brenta Alta | ||||||
Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Pipot — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement
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6b | Pilotu | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
Sharp start and moves off ledge have cratering potential. Pulled up stick clip for ledge protection
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Toleranza zero — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.
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6a | ★ Tuc tuc | 15m | ||||
Hardest climb of the day because the jug to get to anchors was so greasy it was near impossible to hang onto, and I couldn’t waste our mistaken purchase of 15 euro friction lab chalk on it! After a few parties had piled a bucket of chalk on it became less greasy
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Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Croz de le Niere | ||||||
Formica | ||||||
6b | ★★ Volion curva | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Liked this one up the pocketed wall. One reachy sequence I had to figure out.
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6a | ★ Dolci creature — 2 attempts | 15m | Average | |||
Perhaps it’s the humidity, I said “ take “ at first bolt and came down while the people on the via ferrata under the start proceeded to get out of the way, but that’s because I felt there was a potential to slip on top of them. Felt the climbing was kind of forced, but some nice sequences between
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6a | ★★ Pilastro Moana | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Got spat off the start first go not a good warm up start, limestone feels so slippery compared to granite
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Ishoel | ||||||
Litjhælvet | ||||||
7- | ★ Solo Smaker Bedre | 12m | ||||
Dave told me to go left, right worked for me
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
Hanshallaren Hans | ||||||
6b+ | Akvarell — 2 attempts | 16m | Average | |||
Took 2 goes at the start, did not think this climb flowed well
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
Sandmælen Midtre | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Trollollol — 2 attempts | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crux is quite tricky, and the way I solved it was chalkless. Interesting route
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | ||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | ||||||
7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
Main B | ||||||
7- | Trim de eldre — 2 attempts | 15m | ||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Mirror Mirror | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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Tue 27th Jun 2023 - Umina | ||||||
Lake View | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hieroglyphics of Luxor | 8m, 3 | ||||
Rpt, long reach to finish but some nice moves
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20 | ★★ Chain anchor | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, good friction day made it feel more like 19
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16 | ★ Quick links ahoy | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Step across gap | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Fieg's Overhang Fiegs right wall | ||||||
18 to 19 | ★ Meat and Beer | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
18 | ★ New route | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Rpt steeper bit more straightforward than meat and beer
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18 | ★ Pinky and The Brain | 24m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt 2 laps
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19 ~20 | ★ Acme Corporation | 24m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. For my height I find the start of both pitches more like 20
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
23 | ★ Young and dumb — 2 attempts | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, two goes, clean second shot
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave The Terrace | ||||||
20 | ★★ Got that Phelan feeling | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Couldn’t make bolts wobble but the glue looks like polyester (101) which should no longer be used as life is only 20 years which is what these would be close to
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Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
16 | Bombayment | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Davafly | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | Plum line | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Vengemite | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Marmite | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
14 | ★★ Without a Lead | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt to clean anchors
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Turquosine | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A bit sandy after no ascents for years, did all moves after a brush.
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt. Can climb quite nicely.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★ Cadbury Flake | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Hang in there Baby | 20m | Average | |||
Rpt, cleaning
|
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Space Ape Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Orangutang | 6m | Average | |||
Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
For a short climb this is full on. Gave it a good brush.
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