Bernd Schiffer

What an epic adventure! Really good and sustained climb, almost all pitches. I led p2-5, Michael led p1. When I seconded p1, I thought pulling through the crux was way harder than a 15. I'd grade that a hard 16 or even a 17. P2 is just fun, cruising up the crack at solid grade 17. P3 is the money pitch. Getting up the flake is already bold, but the crux is the corner, where I pulled on good hand and awful feet. Lost my footing once and then pulled through, ending head-first in a bush. I think I got lost on p4, ending too much on the left. Had to traverse right back to the corner. P6 is a tough 16, but so much fun to climb. Highly recommend this route!

Very much enjoyed this climb! Loved the exposed traverse on the 4th pitch. Shame it wasn't longer. Tried to link p4 and p5. Didn't work at all, so we had an 8m p5 at the top. I led p2 and p4, Michael the rest.

Pushing my grade here. Led all three pitches. Start of first pitch is tricky for a 14, rest of p1 and all of p2 cruising. p2 has a nice small cave at the top. Belayed on the boulder right under the crux of p3. The whole climb would've been three stars if the start of p3 were been better protected. There are two small cams on the lip, but then the next 4 m has no pro, and I'm pretty sure I would've decked from 5-6 m height right on the big boulder. Crack is too wide for #6. A single bolt would be nice here. That all said, the moves are just fantastic. Don't get distracted by thinking of climbing the face on the left. You'd get to the letterbox and then there's no way out of there. Bridging is king here, and it's a great and fun way.

Damn, that was thrilling. I'm pushing my grade here, and this was a sport route disguised in a trad area. The first 4 metres are trad, and then it's 12 metres to the top with only two bolts. Between the bolts and also the top is run out could've been easily four bolts for my taste. Only one star because of that.

It's okay. Don't get what the fuss is about. One star for sure, but two or even three? Na. Basically bridging the whole way up. Don't think it's worth repeating.

a) Not a 13. More like a hard 14. b) Why only 1 star? Find it a fantastic climb, just a bit short. Very thought-provoking but rewarding.

2nd go on this classic, as a warm-up on the first day. p1 & p3 led by me, p2 & p4 led by Mick. No problem this time. Even cruised through the third pitch confidently.